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i really like https://www.emodels.co.uk/
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Nov 12, 2017 18:22
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Yeast posted:Stynelrez primer for a base, then strongly consider a white ink for zenithal highlights. Smoother than a primer, more controllable. airbrushing with acrylic inks - especially white has really changed things up considering how terribly most white acrylic paints preform
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Sep 1, 2019 11:00
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chippocrates posted:How do you get a white like that? I've seen a few white panels like that and I've been wondering how to achieve it. Daler Rowney and Liquitex are the ones I've used. You can thin them or use them plain. I haven't done a huge amount of experimenting with transparencies but the white I use is Daler Rowney FW artist ink and is transparent but has really good coverage. Miniac on youtube mentions them in his Zenithal priming video and my main inspiration for getting more into it was this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zCwtyG35_o&t=336s
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Sep 2, 2019 16:13
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Airbrushes can have a really steep learning curve and have you feeling super frustrated, I really struggled the first couple of months I was using mine. I definitely had a couple of hobby sessions just taken up by maintenance and cleaning. They can be super rewarding though but just be aware that you're not going to get super amazing results straight out of the gate. I found gunpla a nice refreshing change of pace when I get frustrated with other forms of modelling. Community (as seen in this really lovely series of posts in this thread) can be a really good part of the hobby. I've found a few youtubers (miniac, vince ventruellea, marco frisoni) really good watches and genuinely inspirational.
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Sep 14, 2019 11:49
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mike12345 posted:Does anyone know if the paints in the op also work on wood carvings? I've started carving sculptures and from what I've read people use acrylic paints, just not sure if any brand will do. i'd prob look more into artist/craft acrylics rather than miniature ones just from an economical perspective presuming the carvings are larger than minis. I think the main consideration would be to prime the wood well
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Oct 27, 2019 17:20
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I looked at the post on their FB page regarding the Kickstarter cancellation, and 90% of the complaints from people who are mad about the cancellation have phrases like "snowflake", "SJWs", "politically correct" and "easily offended" somewhere in them. So yeah, I'm going to say it's a safe assumption that most of the disgruntled backers aren't upset because "historical accuracy" was somehow denied here. There are also a few feeble "but if you don't remind people about the Nazis, they will forget them!" type defenses (which completely overlook the difference between historical accuracy and glorification/fetishization, the latter of which Scale75 definitely was doing, unwittingly or not). disappointed but not surprised. scale modelling is unfortunately rife with those attitudes.
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Nov 15, 2019 21:33
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Sydney Bottocks posted:That was another defense attempted by some people in the FB post, too. "Well, other companies make WWII German stuff, including stuff with swastikas on it, nobody's outraged about that!" Which were usually shot down with a rebuttal that the swastikas tend to be on decal sheets, leaving it up to the individual modeler to put them on or not. Well that and they don't give out swastika pins/badges with the kits, either. i've always enjoyed this article https://doogsmodels.com/2015/10/21/fetishizing-the-enemy/ around the prevalence of ww2 german subject matter in scale modelling. This scale 75 definitely pushes the boundaries. Unfortunately from most fb posts i've seen from scale modelling groups the "trigger the libs" by meticulously replicating tiny fascists mentality is too common. JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Vallejo and P3 are fascist-free, right? Vallejo are basically a fine art company that went into mini-paints as a sideline so I think should be fairly safe politically VolatileSky posted:As I near the actual painting portion of building my SoB army, I really want some decent "icons" to add. I'm not hugely into the available water transfers however. Short of drawing everything on by hand, what other options would there be for using some of the available art? Specifically if I used icons from: try searching for inkjet waterslide decal paper. i can see some for around 10bux on amazon. Paragon8 fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Nov 16, 2019 |
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Nov 16, 2019 00:17
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Ineptitude posted:Always wanted to paint a few miniatures and finally have the time to do so. keep an eye out for tamiya extra thin for glue.
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Dec 3, 2019 12:37
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ShallNoiseUpon posted:I'm lazy and have been trying to find a decently priced lab surplus vortex mixer because I hate shaking paints. there are some knockoffs on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gel-Nail-Polish-Paint-Shaker-Eyelash-Glue-Shaking-Machine-For-Tattoo-Pigment/174113576032 haven't bought but i've been keeping an eye on it
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Jan 11, 2020 01:47
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I've had pretty good luck with https://www.jacksonsart.com for brushes. I think Miniac has a discount code for first time orders.
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Feb 12, 2020 19:29
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FninJVxExlY really unlocked the potential of inks for me. He's got some other videos worth checking out. I think Vince Ventrulla has a few ink videos too. You can use them to tint metallics super easily either by mixing or going over with a translucent layer. They can be tinned with acrylic thinners/water.
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Feb 14, 2020 11:40
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Slimnoid posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgJqjIMd6k8 Yeah! he's just a fun vibe all around. There's a lot of great content on youtube. Darren Latham has some great vids but it seems like GW cracked down on him making them.
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Feb 15, 2020 00:09
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Big Willy Style posted:What makes you say that GW is cracking down on him? He seems to be powering ahead with his videos He says that after his Lord of Blights masterclass there will be no more videos. He could very well be moving to the main GW channel or maybe he's not enjoying making the video content and wants to taper down although he seems pretty enthusiastic. He said something about explaining further so it looks like he's finishing the masterclass at least. With using W&N brushes and a wet palette he's gone pretty off brand so I can easily see GW not being thrilled with his content but too cautious of the backlash to just suddenly force him to stop.
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Feb 15, 2020 01:10
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Furism posted:Is there an online shop in the EU that sells Stynylrez and Liquitex inks? Amazon doesn't seem to have either, and I'm wary of eBay when it comes to paints. its rebranded i believe to either ammo one shot primer or ultimate modeling products primer in the uk
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Feb 20, 2020 23:07
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TTerrible posted:If you mean the Badger stuff it really is not. I've seen a few reviews say its directly relabelled and some retailers name the product ultimate primer/stynylrez but maybe thats changed in the past year or two. Either way I've had really good results with UMP especially compared to vallejo 
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Feb 20, 2020 23:58
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TTerrible posted:I've honestly never even seen the two primers you mention in a store. Where are you seeing it? The brands are a lot more well known in the scale modelling side of things. Sorry I assumed you knew about them and had info they changed recipes or something. sources that its relabelled Stynylrez https://www.scalemodellingnow.com/tbpainting-ultimate-primer http://airbrushandanalog.blogspot.com/2017/05/one-shot-primer-from-ammo-by-mig-jimenez.html https://michtoy-from-the-front.blogspot.com/2018/07/mtsc-product-spotlight-badger-stynylrez.html links to buy https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/60ml-grey-one-shot-primer-ammo-mig-jimenez-a-mig-2024 - they also carry straight Stynylrez too it seems! https://www.umpretail.com/products/ultimate-primer-120ml-grey https://www.emodels.co.uk/ultimate-120ml-white-primer-badger-stynylrez-029.html
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Feb 21, 2020 12:43
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TTerrible posted:That is weird as hell. I've heard of MIG certainly but never any connection to Stynlrez. Barwells the Badger distributor in the UK is at all the major wargaming/scale shows with big displays of Stynlrez. TIL. I think there was a time when importing was more difficult which is where UMP started to carry it. the official badger product seems more accessible from the quick google. UMP feels like more of a garage brand but has a decent presence at shows, I got my last bottle of primer at Telford. Its good stuff! I still use Mr Surfacer for scale modelling but minis I use the ultimate primer after struggling enormously with vallejo.
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Feb 21, 2020 14:04
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TTerrible posted:The white Badger is (of course) more problematic for me but the black is so, so lovely. I picked up some Mahogany Mr. Surfacer which apparently is all the rage in the Ma.K community which I'm excited about trying out but I mostly do minis when I'm sick of shooting lacquers and running an airbrush and want to mostly do something with brush work.
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Feb 21, 2020 17:36
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I think Latham seemed pretty buzzed by all the youtube stuff like I don't think he would have gone from doing quick IG videos to a fully detailed masterclass if he didn't enjoy the format to a degree. On the Minaic Facebook group Scott mentioned that they're trying to work with GW to get Darren on the podcast but it wasn't looking good. So it does feel like GW are learning the wrong lessons from whatever happened with Duncan and are trying to tighten their grip on their creatives from getting a bit too much recognition. I'm sure they don't love that Latham is using W&N brushes and OOP citadel paints. Seems like a bad move when you've got an employee making stellar content that drives customers to your product in his own time you're not paying for.
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Mar 2, 2020 14:04
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Two Headed Calf posted:How does Vallejo Gold Metal Color hold up to GW Retributor Armor? My pot RA is almost done and I adore the VMCs I just don't want a noticeable difference between my models painted with RA and the VMC. the metal color is pretty green/yellow and i'd say is closer to liberator armour than retributor armour. you could probably get a good mix between metal color gold and copper but might be annoying to do it every time (and you need to get the copper)
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Apr 24, 2020 22:48
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Schadenboner posted:Can Vallejo Metal Air be brushed-on (without modification)? I believe OP is referring to the Vallejo Metal Color line and not just metallic paints that are in the game color / model color lines. You can brush paint it but its very thin!
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Jul 31, 2020 13:13
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Furism posted:I keep hearing good things about that brand but they seem difficult to source in France If you can get your hands on Ammo by mig products they've relabelled Stynylrez with "one-shot" primer.
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Aug 1, 2020 18:15
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:If I were to get something like this - with the caveat that it's solely to get into painting the minis because the paints + the models seem like a good value (no commenting on if it's a good value within the context of playing the WH40K game) the paints are standard size iirc but the washes/texture are usually in a larger pot size but for these sets are in the standard pot size. You'll have heaps leftover. I'm still using a small pot of reikland fleshshade for example. I started building out my citadel paints with a starter set but the one without the minis. You get a little bit more variety than the ones with the minis. The new 40k one looks pretty decent not sure the price but you get some nice colors in it like retributor armour and the new tesseract glow technical as well as some primaries you can mix your own colors from. I wouldn't worry *too* much about the differences between bases and layers etc. you can still highlight with a base paint and base with a layer paint.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:19
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Eej posted:You did a great job covering up those horrifying seams on the top I have only built one and it was a nightmare but have seen people say its easier when you snip the pegs and rely more on glue. Something I did discover for myself with the outriders is that its pretty easy to clip the leg/exhaust section from the cowling. makes painting subassemblies a little bit easier
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Aug 22, 2020 21:38
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Big Bad Beetleborg posted:I picked up the Warcry starter set a few weeks back and gave the Iron Golems to a mate who was looking to get back into this, but he's been hit with a huge vet bill and is strapped for cash. I actually started my paint collection with this very set. The paints are good value! You get the shade and the texture in the 12ml pot. White Scar is probably the only outright awful paint. The mould line remover is good and I still use. The nippers and brush are pretty awful but they're essentially free.
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Aug 27, 2020 03:04
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It doesn't hurt to gloss before an oil/enamel wash but isn't necessary in my experience. I usually end up doing it to protect transfers. I find if there is damage its more about the friction from getting too vigorous with q-tips than the chemical interaction. You really want to be gentle with removing the wash. Bucnasti posted:I use Tamiya panel line accent on my models and was told that I didn't need to varnish over my acrylic undercoat before cleaning it up with X-20 thinner. X-20 is an enamel thinner so I think is a bit hotter than just spirits. Paragon8 fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Sep 9, 2020 |
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Sep 9, 2020 15:54
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:On an spray-adjacent note, finally going to pick up a bottle of Stynlrez, but when I was reading the reviews a bunch of people kept mentioning how easy it is to sand and...is that something I'm supposed to have been doing with primer all this time? Is sanding primer one of the secrets to super-smooth coverage that nobody talks about? not really with mini painting. the sandable thing is more of a plus in the scale modelling side of things where you run into things like seams between like fuselage halves and priming is a good way to see where you need more sanding to get things flush
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Oct 3, 2020 21:49
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Are there any blood effect paints that could be airbrushed without totally losing the effect? Toying around with some blood-soaked robe ideas and I want to figure out a way to make a relatively smooth gradient. Most blood paints are too viscous and probably won't take to thinning well, but I'm wondering if acrylic ink and maybe some gloss varnish mixed in would work. The ink is glossy enough to make convincing blood when it's brushed on, but it seems like airbrushing it almost completely kills the sheen for some reason. Tamiya Clear Red might work
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Feb 20, 2021 23:07
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Tamiya is an alcohol based acrylic! you can thin/clean with IPA.
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Feb 20, 2021 23:25
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Verisimilidude posted:I get very weird CHUD vibes from this guy. His videos are pretty useful and short (which is good), but there's been a handful of times where he said something a little worrying politically. I hope he's just trying to be edgy and it doesn't go much further than that. There's more than a few painters I would not be surprised to be at least slightly CHUDy but for the most part they all seem to be aggressively non-political. The guy that does the 'eavy contrast series has a bit about how he hates painting blue and called his live stream painters against blue and the first stream was right around the time of the biggest protests last year and he did do a post clarifying that his stream wasn't anti-police but I'm not sure how revealing it was about his personal politics vs fear of backlash.
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Mar 22, 2021 17:40
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Dreylad posted:My W&N #2 is starting to die (losing its tip, even with giving it a good brush soap treatment) and I think I may pick up a few of these. I can't remember, how do these size compare to other brushes? What do people recommend getting usually? I feel like they run a little finer than W&N to my eye. I got a 0 and 2 recently and feel quite happy with the sizes for painting but the 2 definitely doesn't have the belly and volume that series 7 or 8404s do. The 0 is almost so sharp I feel as comfortable using it over my 000 for eyes and things like that
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Jul 17, 2021 17:56
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punishedkissinger posted:thanks! ive been basing with mr finishing surfacer 1500 black and then just using white vallejo air color to zenithal. the surfacer gunks up my brush so bad though if you aren't already I find thinning Mr Surfacer 1500 about 50:50 with levelling thinner to be close to the perfect primer but I reserve that more for scale models and rely on molotow black or stynylrez for minis.
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Jul 24, 2021 18:16
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Furism posted:I don't have any Bronze Vallejo Metal Color (I don't think they even make it). Would I get a similar result by mixing Copper and Gold together? You're probably better off mixing in some brown/sepia inks into VMC silver. I'm not a huge fan of the copper/gold VMCs. If you're open to different brands as per vince venturella's recommendation I have used the green stuff world bronze metal pigment mixed with vallejo metal varnish and really love the look.
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Aug 2, 2021 18:01
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punishedkissinger posted:what is recommended for yellow paint? my vallejo model color may have gone bad, very runny and washy most yellows are pretty bad and I do my best to mostly airbrush it when I have to but for brush painting I've had good success with Averland Sunset and then another yellow on top of that. I've done one experiment with a yellow contrast over that which I liked on a banner but haven't had an opportunity to try further. Key is good prep work and try basing in a light color rather than straight over black etc.
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Aug 9, 2021 00:04
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Funzo posted:So far I just can't figure out airbrushing inks. It's either spattering all over if I try using it right out of the bottle or a watery mess if I use thinner. Any recommendations? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FninJVxExlY&t=1s basically watch this. what I found key with airbrushing inks thanks to the video is to aim for quick bursts and basically ride the trigger and let the airflow dry the ink between layers. you'll only really want to use thinner with inks if you want to dilute it for transparency not for flow.
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Sep 24, 2021 18:47
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The Demilich posted:I'm thinking about oil washes and it hit me, how am I supposed to varnish a mixed media miniature? as far as I understand it in the context of miniature painting you're basically ok to go over oils - especially a wash - with acrylic varnishes and acrylics in general because they're such thin layers compared to an oil painting which can take months to fully cure vs. days for an oil wash.
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Feb 9, 2022 00:32
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Apparently it's a thing for painting on canvas, which is why I was surprised that it didn't seem like anyone had tried it for mini painting. Definitely more risky than I'd be comfortable with, but I guess artists poisoning themselves with their materials has a pretty long history. the grimdark compendium guy has airbrushed oils and I have tried if after seeing that. I also do scale modelling and airbrush enamels/lacquers so wasn't a big difference from that in terms of safety gear but I don't think you really get much benefit over acrylics from applying them that way. you also have to be super careful as oil paints are probably more likely to be using toxic pigments compared to model painting acrylics.
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Feb 21, 2022 10:11
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lilljonas posted:Afaik the main advantage is that enamels etc are less likely to clog up an airbrush than acrylic paints, as the drying time of acrylics is so much shorter. Instead, you get toxins. Absolutely! There's a lot of advantages to working with lacquers/enamels. Just wrt to oils specifically as the main advantage for painting minis outside of washes is blending and extended working time you're not really seeing a lot of that with airbrush application vs. doing blending via brush over an acrylic base so if you're not fully comfortable with the idea of airbrushing hotter chemicals I don't think there's a big enough reason to push yourself into it. You're going to get blends with acrylics through an airbrush easily enough. What does really work well is airbrushing enamel washes which I picked up from the grimdark guy because you get a much more even all over application before you wick away the excess with a sponge etc.
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Feb 21, 2022 12:07
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tangy yet delightful posted:I'd hesitate to judge too much from pictures on warcom. And I'm no expert but I believe Trovarion has a YouTube video where he discusses a lot of what the judges are looking for and also how you must keep in mind the display cabinets and lighting that will effect how your piece is seen during the judging. Vince Venturella as a Golden Demon vid too that goes into it as well. The other angles of the Skink really do a lot to sell how good it is. Warcom really is doing a lot of these minis an injustice with only one angle. Pictures distort our sense of scale as well. Its worth remembering how absolutely tiny the miniature is with that amount of detail. Andy Wardle has a little vlog on the cult of paint youtube channel where he basically instantly called the skink out as a potential slayer sword winner.
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Mar 30, 2022 08:33
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throwing a rec for a tub of golden soflat titanium white into the ring
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May 22, 2022 09:43
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