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Geburan posted:I'm considering taking up mini painting, probably for smaller skirmish level games like Frostgrave and Gaslands. A number of links of the front page don't work anymore though. Any other resources you'd recommend for getting started? Searching on youtube for beginner videos is surprisingly useful, as a lot of techniques are kinda hard to explain well in writing compared to showing them in action. Something like Frostgrave is a great starting point as it means you can get a playable faction pretty quickly. Also, you can switch and paint up new gangs to try out new techniques, new colours etc., compared to a big army game where you might feel locked in to a huge year-spanning project.
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Feb 7, 2022 17:57
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StashAugustine posted:I have a small flower pot I use for paint water so I'd never drink out of it, but someday I will clean my brushes in the coffee lol, just lol, if you've never cleaned your brushes by mistake in your drinking cup
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Feb 8, 2022 10:38
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Finally got around to take some better pics of my duck adventurers, getting ready to rid the world of evil:     The idea is to launch the Kickstarter on Tuesday, but you can already check out the preview page and signed up if you're interested in getting your own beaked crew. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/farflungfigures/the-silver-feather-adventure-guild
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Feb 13, 2022 20:24
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Verisimilidude posted:So long as you have a good mask and are doing it in a well ventilated area, spraying enamel and lacquer paints should be fine. Yeah, most model kit hobbyists use enamel and laquer paints in their airbrushes. Acrylics being the norm is, in my experience, more of a wargaming hobbyist thing.
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Feb 21, 2022 08:23
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Paragon8 posted:the grimdark compendium guy has airbrushed oils and I have tried if after seeing that. I also do scale modelling and airbrush enamels/lacquers so wasn't a big difference from that in terms of safety gear but I don't think you really get much benefit over acrylics from applying them that way. Afaik the main advantage is that enamels etc are less likely to clog up an airbrush than acrylic paints, as the drying time of acrylics is so much shorter. Instead, you get toxins. E: I finished up some more skeletons for my club's Renaissance Undead army. I added pennants and flags in green stuff, it's the first time I try making flags that way but I think it worked out ok. Now they're off to the staging point until we get to basing it all.  
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Feb 21, 2022 10:24
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Geisladisk posted:I sometimes do it after rinsing the brush out to get a good tip, but do people actually do it with paint still on the brush? I think (hope) that nobody is licking brushes with paint on them, I think it's more licking a cleaned brush to get a better point.
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Feb 22, 2022 10:59
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Love these, the barding is especially great addition! Now I want to get a bunch of these ancient skellies! Thanks! They are kitbashed, mostly old Games Workshop undead cavalry but with bits of plastic Perry medieval knights and heads from Skull & Crown's Triump of Death range.
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Feb 23, 2022 15:04
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It can be useful on a situational basis, but most of the time I built the minis before priming.
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Feb 23, 2022 15:27
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Gambrinus posted:What's the best paint for painting 1980s/1990s Citadel miniatures these days? I haven't picked up a brush in over 20 years (and wasn't much cop at it then, to be honest), but I've just spent far too much money on nostalgic squig herders and halflings on eBay and need to do something with them. I paint mostly using Vallejo, but with some P3 and GW paints mixed in. If you want to go old school, Coat D'arms paints is the legacy successor of the old Citadel paints. AFAIK they made the actual paint for Citadel before they moved production inhouse, so they still have the same line more or less as the 90's Citadel range.
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Mar 3, 2022 20:09
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Jack B Nimble posted:Had a bit of a disappointment last weekend. Sat down to paint my first batch of sisters and, since it was already dark and very VERY hot and humid outside, I wanted to use my brush on primer I'd purchased as a backup to spray on. I use vallejo surface primer as a brush on primer. It's watery. Depending on material, you'll probably want two or more coats, not goop it on. If it's waaaaaay too watery though you might need to shake it more. But don't expect it to be think like a GW layer paint.
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Jun 20, 2022 21:09
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My Spirit Otter posted:Bought some half painted minis, wondering what the best way to strip them was. Putting them in a bath of undiluted pine sol or similar degreasing household cleaning soap for a while and then brushing them with a toothbrush works for most materials and paints. Acetone works even better on metal minis but will eat plastic minis. Methylated spirits works too, but smells more and there are some kinds of resins and plastics that don't like it a lot iirc.
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Jun 28, 2022 09:19
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GreenBuckanneer posted:sweet, i threw that citadel bottle right in the trash where it belongs. Tamiya extra thin is 50% Butyl Acetate and 50% Acetone. The GW plastic glue says it includes n-butyl acetate but not at what ratio. And if you want to top that bottle up without buying expensive hobby glue you can just get the acetate and acetone and mix yourself. I am not a chemist, but here's a nifty thread if you want to go hog wild and mix your own glue: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums...yrene%20cement. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Jun 29, 2022 |
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Jun 29, 2022 19:42
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Spanish Manlove posted:Or airbrush cleaner Yeah Tamiya's airbrush cleaner is pretty much the same stuff as their extra thin glue, just at a fifth of the price per ml or so. But at that point you can just buy acetone for your local drug store and use it anyway. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jun 29, 2022 |
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Jun 29, 2022 19:49
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Eej posted:It's like $4 for a bottle of Extra Thin Where I live it's between 7-8 bucks per bottle, which is not a lot but also enough in the long run that it might be worth picking up an alternative if you're sticking toghether a lot of terrain kits or something.
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Jun 29, 2022 21:10
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anchorite posted:What should I buy to paint a couple D&D minis? The campaign I'm DMing will finish up in a couple months and I want to paint minis for the final fight. Should I get the Vallejo game color paint set? Or would the army painter speedpaint starter set be better for a new painter? And are sets even worth it? Or should I pick up a handful of a few different things? Often paint sets are a trap, unless it’s a very small set. It’s usually better, especially if you have a store nearby, to get a few basic paints and then buy more when you end up really needing them. I have not tested army painters quick paints yet, but I’ve heard good things about them. If I were painting for DMing, where you often want to paint up several minis and monsters and stuff, I think a quick painting system makes a lot of sense. Then you can focus first on making them table ready, and later on go back and pick out details if you want to.
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Jul 2, 2022 21:32
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Winklebottom posted:
I just love your night gobbo paint scheme, it's so slick :O
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Jul 4, 2022 18:38
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but is it ok to ask about Siocast impressions here? Anyone painted up some? I've never painted (or even held) Siocast minis myself, but my caster is considering getting a machine and is asking if I would be interested in casting my minis in both metal and siocast plastic. AFAIK the up front cost of siocast molds is higher than for metal molds, but the per mini cost would be significantly lower. As tin has jumped in price by about 100% since two years ago, the cost increase of raw material cost is up 60%, which is not the same as the cost of the mini going up by 60%, but it's still a lot. I've just don't have the experience of the material to know if it's a good idea. So it's kind of a middle ground between "full on" hard plastic minis and metal minis.
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Oct 10, 2023 14:21
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Thanks for all the input on siocast. It confirms what I've read otherwise that it's a very mixed bag. It also seems like QC is a big part of it, as it seems there are bigger risks of miscasts than in metal spin casting. I'm hesitantly positive, as I don't see an end to the steady increase of shipping costs or metal prices, which will make selling larger numbers of metal minis harder and harder in the future.
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Oct 11, 2023 12:31
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Cease to Hope posted:AP has some neat specialist paints but i imagine they want to shake off the "cheap alternative to the good paints" rep that seems to stick to their main warpaints line Me buying some AP bottles ten years ago and all of them being watery inconsistent poo poo paint ingrained that impression in me. I can only assume I'm not the only one.
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Oct 13, 2023 21:46
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Z the IVth posted:
Yes. Green stuff goes bad (or rather, cures) over time, and especially the yellow part. The more of it is exposed to air, the worse. So rods are better than strips for that reason. I've had worse luck with some brands, Greenstuffworld sometimes sent me almost pre-cured crap strips that were impossible to work with. Once the yellow part starts getting a "skin" it's just a matter of time before you have to use it or lose it. You can try to peel off the skin of the part you're going to use with a blade, but you'll most likely end up with small bits of cured yellow plastic in your mix that you'll need to fish out. It sucks. It sucks really bad. I've started to buy smaller strips, even if it is not cost effective, just to be able to more easily use it up in time.
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Nov 7, 2023 09:17
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Magic sculpt (or apoxie, or milliput) mixed into green stuff is my go-to right now. You get some of the best aspects of each putty if you mix them. I did pick up beesputty too with the aim to try it out, but that''s very much more purely for sculpting, not the kind of multi-purpose tool that an epoxy putty is. But yeah, pretty much every putty out there I've tried stores better than green stuff. My apoxie pack is several years old now, and works well still.
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Nov 7, 2023 11:13
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Z the IVth posted:Can you post an actual unpainted mini because I have feeling its your model that is trash, not your painting. Another thing I like about green stuff is that it is stickier than any other epoxy putty I've tried. Sometimes you just really want your putty to stick well to a previous layer or armature. Pure magic sculpt, apoxie or milliput has, in my experience, an annoying tendency to just fall off.
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Nov 7, 2023 13:16
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Yeah seconding getting something like Bones minis or hell, ask your local minis wargaming groups. I’ve seen several beginners/parents/teachers ask for leftover minis to paint, and there are always handfuls of minis given away from various piles of shame. I’ve given away a bunch of kickstarted minis I’ll never use for kids to paint up.
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Nov 7, 2023 20:44
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I think mini painting is pretty mid in expensiveness. There are tons of hobbys that are cheaper, like frisbee golf or something, but unless you just endlessly hoard every warhammer kit you come across, it doesn't hold a candle to a lot of other hobbies. I mean, if I jsut compare with the hobbies of my closest colleagues: Biking. A cheap entry hobby level racing bike is what, a thousand bucks? And that's without any other gear such as shoes, clothes, helmet etc. The ones your middle age colleague rides is probably twice as expensive, at least. Likely three times or more. Horseback riding. Just L O loving L and move on with the list. Watching football. A ticket for a top league match (which is a pretty bad and cheap league compared to others here in Europe) is not that bad, like 40-50 bucks. With condiments and drinks on the stadium etc., you're looking at what, about a hundred bucks? For one evening. A hundred bucks will get you paint and minis to last you way longer. If you're looking at more expensive matches like Champions League and travelling to other towns to follow your team, or even the national team? Take those costs times ten. Restaurants. And I'm talking someone who eats at good restaurants as a hobby. God drat. That person would easily spend half a grand for a meal and drinks. That will net you an army and several months of busywork painting unless you're some kind of speed painting daemon. Hell even knitting and such textile crafts can be pretty expensive if you're a yarn nerd and start to buy expensive high quality materials and go to conventions and stuff. So yeah mini painting can really be a budget hobby compared to many of the more common "grown up" hobbies.
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Nov 16, 2023 23:35
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Professor Shark posted:Cheaper than meth* *don't ask about starting a Genestealer Cult army in 40K though
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Nov 16, 2023 23:38
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I was a firm follower of black gesso priming because I live in a windy wet cold hellhole where spray priming outdoors is often not realistic half of the year. I switched to vallejo surface primer because it makes for a much more solid foundation that is more resistant to paint flaking off. But for large terrain pieces with styrofoam and such that makes spray cans non feasable? Bring out that gesso pot.
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Nov 19, 2023 15:09
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I painted up some NPCs for our local necromunda group. It was pretty refreshing to do something I very rarely paint, sci-fi in this case.  Toothbrush servitor is best servitor:  The Void Fearmongers are HUGE and an absolute work hazard in the Underhive:  ”where is the wet floor sign? I could have slipped and hurt myself! We’re blind you know! I didn’t see no sign!” ”We want to talk to your manageeeeerrrrrr!” lilljonas fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Nov 24, 2023 |
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Nov 24, 2023 00:26
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Bohemian Nights posted:
It's really interesting to go back to what was considered "top tier" at different stages in time. New products, years of experience and, most of all, the extreme increase in availability of shared knowledge has made an enormous difference. Stuff that won Golden Daemons in the 90's and early 00's would often be considered nice but not outstanding today. And I've seen stuff that won Golden Daemons in the 80's and early 90's that I honestly think is below my "effort tabletop" level these days. It's crazy how the standard has increased. If you think you're a mid painter at best, be comforted by the idea that your paint job would definitely blow away pretty much any club or shop back in the early 90's when I started Warhammer. If you use a wash at all your minis are 99% sure to look better than what we played with. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Jan 2, 2024 |
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Jan 2, 2024 13:19
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Count Thrashula posted:That's my philosophy exactly, even though I know I'll never go back and add detail, which is fine! This is my plan for 2024. Going to try to get more armies painted, and that means being more tolerant of my own "good enough" paint jobs.
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Jan 11, 2024 15:46
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Anyone got any good examples/suggestions for muddy bases at a 6mm/8mm scale? Just looking for inspiration and ideas for basing Legion Imperialis infantry to match the muddy weathering on the tanks. I'd try slapping on some textured paint for a low effort mud base, I think it should work somewhat ok even at smaller scales. I personally use Vallejos textured paint for most of my basing these days, even for my 6mm stuff. Before that I used just normal wall filler, it'll work fine too and you can choose grain size depending on how fine you want it. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Jan 12, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 13:53
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Eej posted:Ive got a bunch of Vallejo Model Colours that went to poo poo after a couple years. As in they just squirt out coloured water and I assume all the pigment settled out. Happens to me whenever I get on a no-painting funk for a while. You need to shake them like they own you money. Resin print painting question: I dug out a bunch of printed squigs from my attic. When I primed them I noticed that one of them is still a bit gooey and runny on one side, and the primer is just melting off. I assume it didn't cure correctly. I bought them like, two-three years ago, should I just chuck it in the bin or is there a way to save it?
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Jan 16, 2024 12:18
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Is there any sign of surface cracking? If so, the resin in the core isn't set and you should throw it away because the whole thing is compromised and will tear itself apart. To be honest, I'd be inclined to toss it away anyway. Whatever you choose, be very careful of that goo. Uncured resin is profoundly unpleasant and you want to avoid skin exposure like the plague. If it's third party and you don't print yourself then a little exposure isn't something to freak over, but it is cumulative and the end state is severe allergic reaction to just the fumes. I didn't print it myself. It's more like the "skin" has not cured fully, and has an oily, gooey texture which I assume is partially cured resin. I think I'll just toss it and consider it a loss.
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Jan 16, 2024 22:45
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Lamuella posted:Needed gold, silver, and bronze medals for something I'm doing at work. Decided to paint up some Grenadier dwarves instead. Whoa blast from the past, good job (I grew up with that starter box)
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Jan 21, 2024 14:27
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Lumpy posted:Has anyone primed Terrain with gesso? If so, how did it work out? I do this all the time, especially when I've built a lot with foam as spray can primer will melt a lot of foams. I think terrain is one of those things where gesso makes sense, especially when you have mixed building materials. If you have terrain with lots of details (like plastic kits) and you're afraid to gum them up too badly, you can always do an initial coat with gesso on the other stuff and then spray a lighter coat over the plastics after. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 09:32 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 09:30
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Radiation Cow posted:limited-edition STLs for 20 euros each. Lol what a weird thing. Giving artificial scarcity a bold new face.
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Feb 5, 2024 22:24
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Cease to Hope posted:Don't. I've painted since the 90's on and off and has never bought a paint set with more than five paints. And even those times I bought a specific camo set with 4-6 paints, at least some of them ended up unused. Paint sets are mostly traps IMHO.
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Feb 6, 2024 18:02
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