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BULBASAUR posted:White is such a bitch. An airbrush is easy mode, but I did it by brush before and I still do highlights by hand. Yeah, gently caress white. I'll never finish my Mentor Legion marines because it is such bore to paint.
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Mar 27, 2015 12:33
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SRM posted:If you want to learn how to paint Imperial Fists, you can find a dozen different methods from blogs, forums, and videos from just a cursory Googling. And all of them are more pain than they are worth!
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Oct 23, 2015 20:19
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Nice work. I would suggest maybe using a red glaze (citadel do decent ones) all over the red areas, to bring the highlight in with the red. Then reapply the highlight using the method Skarsnik mentioned. It'll give you a richer red and a more effective transition from base colour to highlight. You can see what I'm talking about here (bit of a poo poo photo). Both models have had their base colour highlighted and a citadel glaze applied. The Ultramarine then had a brighter highlight reapplied, while the Imperial Fist hasn't, which is why his highlights don't stand out so clearly (also because of the lighting). 
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Oct 29, 2015 08:58
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For anyone who is interested Forgeworld have a reasonably good introduction to working with resin video. Although 'wash with soapy water' has never really worked for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UNAjik9S80&user=ForgeWorldVisualFeed
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Nov 13, 2015 23:59
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Lord Twisted posted:When airbrushing what do you guys use to mask other parts of a model? Some sort of paint friendly blu tack? Water-based liquid mask. I use Micro Mask by MicroScale Industries.
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Nov 19, 2015 11:32
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Biostrip20 is the best thing you can buy for stripping models. Non-toxic, non-irritant, sink flushable. Seriously, don't be a wally, be hip. Biostrip!
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Jan 12, 2016 09:12
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VGA golds seem fine to me.
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Jan 28, 2016 12:47
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Frobbe posted:what's the smallest practical stuff you can paint with an airbrush? I'm about to try doing the basecoat on a bunch of guardsmen! This is with a Neo for Iwata sporting a 0.35mm nozzle Don't forget that a water-based liquid mase and/or model masking tape can help you out a lot if you're only wanting to hit a small area. For instance, going back and doing the skin basecoat after you've already painted the armour and helmet.
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Apr 29, 2016 22:53
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I use Halfords "Matte Black" for metal and resin. The one time I tried their plastic primer I was unhappy with the result.
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May 2, 2016 20:26
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The advice I heard from a GW 'Eavy Metal painter was to paint the whole eye black, then put a dot of white on either side of the eye. Always starting with the outside dot because it will give you control over where he is looking. Personally, I use a micon pen to put the iris in.
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May 21, 2016 15:11
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grassy gnoll posted:Holy poo poo, you guys, VMA metallics. It's actually because the metal flakes are smaller to fit through the airbrush. The side-effect of that being a much smoother finish. I haven't tried Citadel air yet, but I'm expecting something similar.
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May 26, 2016 04:15
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I believe you can get to scale leaves made from treated seed husks or something. Get some of those and some wire of your choice, almost instant vines on the floor. Also consider the green Citadel texture paint. I know it's more expensive than sand etc, but the scale of the beads is spot on for ground texture..
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May 29, 2016 08:44
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Vallejo airbrush primers are pretty awesome. Not the normal dropper pot that says "Primer Grey" as that's just a colour match. The actual 200ml polyurethane ones.
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Jun 1, 2016 01:07
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malal posted:How do y'all glue in the clear plastic canopies? Microscale Micro Krystal Klear is specifically for that job. It'll dry clear (one use is to make 'glass' in small windows) and should avoid the fogging, discolouration, and mess issues that other glues, including PVA, can cause with canopies.
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Jun 4, 2016 22:25
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It's the same people who make Microsol and Microset, so anywhere that does them. I'd assume hobby stores, ebay, and Amazon.
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Jun 4, 2016 22:34
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Don't ever used crushed glass for gently caress sake. That is just absurdly dangerous advice.
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Jul 31, 2016 05:27
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SRM posted:You can use em with regular sprays too when you're basing stuff. I'd get a couple cans of brown, green, and black sprays and go to town. The current pots are poo poo and not at all airtight. It's probably separating and drying out at the same time. Try storing them upside down, I've been told that slows the drying out.
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Sep 13, 2016 20:29
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Yeah, Biostrip 20 is the absolute best thing for stripping models, as long as they aren't resin. And if you have to use can primer, I recommend Halfords Matt Black.
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Nov 3, 2016 16:19
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Try http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/
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Nov 20, 2016 14:06
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The standard Abaddon Black is a loving disgrace. It's a liquorice looking glaze of poo poo with all the coverage of a thing that has absolutely no coverage.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:06
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mango sentinel posted:After being afraid to paint some stuff for a long time I've buckled down and am refusing to let perfect be the enemy of good. It is very difficult. I have a similar problem when I paint. Learning to compromise between a finished model done as well as I can manage, and a finished army I can look at in the cabinet or on the table and be happy with isn't as easy as it sounds.
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Dec 27, 2016 21:49
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Dipping is a mug's game. There are better products to achieve better results without the mess or risk of wanking about with dips and woodstains. Citadel shades, Vallejo washes etc.
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Dec 28, 2016 08:45
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The citadel paint station and project box are both actually pretty good.
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Dec 29, 2016 17:11
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The quality of the brush makes a huge difference. It's why people recommend Series 7s.
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Jan 5, 2017 18:22
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Star Man posted:Go to an art supply store like Guiry's or Michael's and get a brush cleaning jar with a metail coil in it. Just fill it with water--no fancy brush cleaning soap. Stroking the coil with your brush will remove paint from it and it will simk to the bottom. Don't run it along the course of the coil, just stroke it across the diameter of the coil. They look like this: http://www.dickblick.com/products/silicoil-brush-cleaning-tank/ Does anyone know where I can get one of those in the UK? not having a huge amount of luck with google.
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Jan 10, 2017 14:12
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Any suggestions for a colour to use as highlight for Citadel's Zamesi Desert? I'm using Zamesi as the armour colour on Tau and I'm a bit stumped. I guess maybe Zandri Dust or Ushabti Bone.
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Jan 10, 2017 21:42
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Injuryprone posted:Lotta good info in this post. I'd like to get close to this yellowish green, if possible. Straken Green all over. Then Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia all over. Then layer Nurgling green leaving the darker colour in recesses. Then maybe 1:1 Nurgling Green & Ushabti Bone as a highlight. My guess anyway.
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Jan 14, 2017 17:53
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I was trying to think of an easier way to get there for someone new to painting.
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Jan 14, 2017 18:04
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Beware though, was produced in 'Finecast', a form of resin notorious for being poo poo and defective.
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Jan 15, 2017 07:06
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I am painting a Martian Skitarii and I've hit a bit of a mental block on shading the inside of his robe. As it stands it is a solid layer of Ushabti bone over a Rakarth Flesh base. I'll be highlighting it with Palid Wych Flesh. Any suggestions for a way of shading in a natural looking shadow? Would 1:1 Nuln and medium be too harsh? Thinned Agrax is the most obvious route, but it almost seems wrong, more like how you would shade bone.
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Jan 15, 2017 22:12
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Speckled Jim posted:Seraphim Sepia seems like a good match for this situation. Also Screaming skull is a good intermediate between the Ushabti Bone and Palid Witch Flesh. Thanks, I went with 1:1 Agrax & medium in the end. It turned out okay I think, if anything maybe a bit too subtle.
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Jan 17, 2017 00:53
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Yeah she's from the Sisters of Battle army. She's a living saint.
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Jan 19, 2017 21:32
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Eat the Rich posted:Good lord, there are so many amazing models on this page I'm embarrassed to even share mine. Nice. What colour are you using beneath the Ironearth? Saint Duncan suggests Khorne Red but yours looks better.
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Jan 28, 2017 13:43
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Irate Tree posted:
Sod off is it disingenuous to say that thieves who have stolen in the past are thieves with a history of theft. Jesus Christ, they stole from their suppliers and their customers when they knew they were going to the wall. Disingenuous? Get to gently caress! You might be fine and happy giving them your money up front for goods that don't yet exist, but not everyone is so relaxed in their interactions with conmen as to be positively supine. Don't come the mealy-mouthed apologist when people point out that Mierce is owned and operated by people with a history of financial dishonesty. And you know what? You are an idiot for Kickstarting their projects if you, for one moment, don't think they will take the money and run the instant Mierce starts to go tits up.
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Feb 1, 2017 11:27
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I've taken to storing my paints upside-down n Really Useful™ drawers for that reason. It also makes it easier to spot the colour you want.
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Feb 14, 2017 18:28
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Is there a product available specifically pre-thinned for pin washing? I ask because when I've tried in the past I usually end up with the paint breaking down and pigment separating oit as beads. Seeing that Mig do a product specifically for applying oil to models for modulation got me wondering.
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Feb 18, 2017 18:08
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Ilor posted:I just bought a bottle of panel wash. It comes with a tiny brush applicator. Cheers, that seems to be exactly what I was looking for.
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Feb 18, 2017 20:59
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Wirth1000 posted:Ok, I'm trying to paint my Tau Fire Warriors and this is literally the first time I ahve ever painted miniatures. Ever. In addition to what the others have said, your first model will always look like poo poo. To you. To us that looks like a model produced by an inexperienced painter. It's not poo poo to our eyes because we can objectively see what it is. Try to keep in mind as you go forward that you are probably always going to be overly critical of your own work. You will get better faster than you expect. An awful lot of miniature painting is just training muscle memory to use a brush with precision, and getting an eye for the consistency of your paint. If you're doing Tau and not liking the GW recommended scheme, maybe have a look at something like this from my own recipe book: quote:Basecoat XV-88. Layer Balor Brown, then Agrax shade. Tidy up with Balor, then line highlight Zamesi Desert. Edge highlight with Ushabti. Balor is closer to the original Tau main colour scheme and doesn't have that odd peach tinge Tau Light Ochre has. It is also more pleasant to paint, in my opinion. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Feb 20, 2017 |
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Feb 20, 2017 03:17
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Over time it peeled away.
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Mar 21, 2017 23:13
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I think those are Rogue Trader era 40k Imperial Guardsmen.
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Mar 26, 2017 18:45
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