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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I remember reading that you can use soft interdental brushes instead of metal ones for cleaning.

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Assessor of Maat posted:

Finished off Szeras.



Got things out of alignment so I couldn't use the guy getting sampled without bending things noticeably, I feel sorry for the pro painter types who will get that as a surprise ~100 hours in.

Gallery link: https://imgur.com/a/1VOXYYC

That's ok, now you can pretend he's invented the world's craziest swirly sausage

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Making and gluing icicles on your frozen themed big dudes: worth it? Or just asking for stuff to be instantly torn off the moment you take em out to play or even move rotate them in place

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Looking ahead because apparently nothing is in stock anymore (ie Badger Patriot 105s) thanks to covid, how big of a deal is the cup size difference between the Iwata Eclipse BS and CS if I'm just painting 40k minis?

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Yeah primary use case will be single model priming, base coating, blending and shading cause I got a lot of free time so I can save the $20 CAD and not worry about it being out of stock when I'm ready to buy

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
More airbrush questions while I look into what it would take to set it up. My workspace is the other half of my corner desk next to a window which is fine but that window is also where a cat tree is positioned. I've got two cats in my little apartment and I don't feel comfortable spraying aerosolized acrylics everywhere because I can wear a mask but they can't and I don't know how good air brush hoods are at catching stray paint and the whole situation just makes me feel like it's not worth any risk to my cats long term health over making some plastic look nicer. There's always outdoor airbrushing which comes with having to deal with humidity, temperature, rain, etc. but it's probably ok for at least priming, base coating and highlighting?

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Under 15 posted:

Throw them in the bathroom for twenty minutes while you spray? I feel like people overstate the dangers of airbrushing... no, it's not good for you to breathe in aerosolized paint, but think about it in comparison to smoking a cigarette.

I mean, I'd rather myself nor my cats inhale neither!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Oh hey, Badger 105s are back on Amazon.ca (and .com) for 25% off with estimated in stock on Aug 13 (I say as I reserve one while I check out what else I need to go with it)

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
*BEST (ABEST, EBEST, etc.) are the cheap Chinese junk brands that litter Amazon with the same product but with like 5 different brands. From my experience with other stuff like that I wouldn't trust the brushes to not scratch up poo poo.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Yeah a jar's a jar I was speaking more to the stuff that'll be poking delicate parts*

*not an innuendo

e: derp mixed up replies

Eej fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Aug 1, 2020

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I got a Tamiya pin vise to replace the creaky, wobbly $10 thing I got off Amazon and some real drill bits and this thing feels so good I just wanna pole holes in every plastic model I can find. Probably not worth it but it's real nice to use

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I got an AK Interactive rebrand pack of drill bits due to laziness and also padding out to get the free delivery quota and promptly dropped the 0.3mm on the floor when opening it up, never to be seen again

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
re: Youtube I just sat down and watched a bunch of Marco Frisoni videos and kinda want to just paint with inks and oil now even though I just bought a bunch of acrylics lol

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Sab669 posted:



Anyone know how to achieve something like the droopy plague batter around the guns, or even on the spikey carapace on the back?

I tried to green stuff some plaguey goopy build up but I'm not happy with it at all:



There's a lot of ways of doing it and I just had this open in a tab so you can look through for ideas: https://tutorialsoftomorrow.tumblr.com/post/155559935349

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Spanish Manlove posted:

I'm still practicing my skills and will some day try out the cel-shaded look, but until then I'm gonna keep painting communist anime robots







Heck ya blue white colour scheme

Maybe try drilling out some barrels

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Painting my first 40k mini which is an Intercessor I got for free from the Warhammer store



I wanted to go another level of blue for highlight but the lightest coat I could do without splattering was basically the width of the backpack so it's kind of hard to get that thin spot highlight going. Is this a function of the fat 0.5mm nozzle on my Badger 105 or can I get a finer result through thinning and fiddling with psi?

If the former, well, it was half the price of an Iwata Eclipse so what can you do but does anyone know if the 0.3mm conversion kit for the 105 is good?

e: painting details with a size 3 synthetic brush I got in a value pack at the art store that sheds a hair every time I rinse it in water is going to drive me insane

Eej fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Aug 12, 2020

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Yeah I ordered two from Jackson Art Supplies in the UK which is taking its sweet time coming here so I started working on the metallics with the crappy brushes I had and I didn't realize what crappy brush meant until now

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Cool ok I'll practice that on the many Assault Intercessors and Necron Warriors in the Indomitus box before I try doing it on a more detailed model.

Kinda tempted to see if I can get that 0.3mm conversion anyway

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS



My first warhams ever!! :toot:

Edge highlighting? Really rough! I gave up halfway mostly because I only have a size 2 brush (still waiting for my 00 and 1 to come in the mail) which made for some awkward painting. Gotta work on brush control. Think I need to work on bringing out more contrast and I'm not sure if I like the colour shift to a sky blue and I'm thinking maybe a deeper blue (and then a white highlight).

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I think if you're going to add weathering then the model is fine as is but if it's "done" then you probably want to do a glaze to bring up the colour saturation

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
There's a big shift lately in people applying colour theory to miniature painting which of course makes me feel dumb for buying a whole whack of Vallejo paints instead of getting strongly pigmented paints and inks and learning to mix my own colours

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I can entirely see myself mixing the perfect shade and then promptly forgetting to make a big batch of it and bottling it so that is a fair point

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Sab669 posted:

No I don't scrub them, I thought that was largely just for metal minis. I don't scrub my GW plastics.

I go pretty much as fast as I can - prime black with a little flow imporver, blast it with some air, empty the pot, mix up the grey + flow improver and put it on, hit it with some air from the airbrush, clean the pot, then hit it with some white ink (not stylenrez, I mispoke). Clean the pot, airbrush on some Vallejo Air colors, clean the pot, then pretty much just grab my brushes and dab on the wash.

I guess I gotta wait longer :(

Give it a day for primer to set

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
You did a great job covering up those horrifying seams on the top

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Professor Shark posted:

I may have already asked about this, but is there a good way to make power swords using the following range of blues and whites?

Thousand Sons Blue
Ahriman Blue
Temple Guard Blue
Baharroth Blue
Calgar Blue
Macragge Blue
Fenrisian Grey
Ulthuan Grey
White Scar

I feel like I bought all the ingredients for blue-ish power weapons but don't know how to put them together...

Do the sword like normal, grey base, shade in all the dark bits, lighter grey and white highlights. Basic glow effect is to take the darkest blue you want for it and paint the desired glow area then take the next lighter blue and paint a smaller area within it then keep going in a smaller area until you hit your desired max brightness. With a power sword you generally don't want to go all the way to white except for some very small bits because they tend to have a more ethereal pale glow than being a lightsaber but it's your model you can do it however subtle or bright as you want!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Mask with Silly Putty is probably the easiest way to do it.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
It looks great but a nitpick is that bamboo is green and segmented. I wouldn't have understood that (e: that it's supposed to be in a bamboo forest) without reading the post.

Eej fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Aug 26, 2020

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
It's 13 paints in there and each one is about $4.55 - $6.10 USD individually for a 12mL pot so even lowballing it to $4.55 for every pot you're looking at $59.15 in paints for $40 in addition to $18 mould line remover, a maybe ~$6 brush and the nippers aren't sold on the GW store (the ones they have seem a lot heavier duty) so we'll just say $10.

Pretty good deal no wonder it's sold out

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
According to this listing at Miniature Market:

quote:

Contents:
Clippers
Mouldline Remove
Starter Brush
13 Paints (12ml)
‣ Retributor Amour
‣ Abaddon Black
‣ Armageddon Dust
‣ Kantor Blue
‣ Khorne Red
‣ Nighthaunt Gloom
‣ Rakarth Flesh
‣ Bugman's Glow
‣ Reikland Fleshshade
‣ White Scar
‣ Leadbelcher
‣ Mournfang Brown
‣ Celestra Grey

So yeah it's kind of a steal for starting out

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Consider investing in Zenithal Priming if you want to know how light falls on your model!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Apologies for the Canadian links but I'm just grabbing links from my Amazon invoice

Badger 105: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=pe_41291580_475835250_TE_dp_1

Compressor with 1/8" hose: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HXN2V5B/ref=pe_41291580_475835250_TE_dp_1

Badger to Iwata (1/8") adapter: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004RM2DIO/ref=pe_41291580_475835250_TE_dp_1

That's all you need (I'm grabbing a quick release adapter cause convenience and I'm pretty sure putting down by airbrush with hose attached still feels like asking for trouble)

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
If you're army painting you can leave one model just with the zenithal priming on as a reference you can rotate and move around while you do everyone else. Then when you're done all the others you can use the completed ones as the reference for your last model.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Squidmar has a good airbrush beginner video and so does Miniac.

Also Badger primer gives me dry tip all the time so I use flow improver for it even in black

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Bake anything you harvest from the outdoors before you use it, be it a bag of pee pee sand or just a pile of rocks

E: don't be like that guy who bought mealworms from the store and then varnished them to make a Tyranid Breeding Pool

Eej fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 1, 2020

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I just pop over to the local art store and check out their wall of Liquitex (and other brands) acrylic mediums

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
https://youtu.be/_OR_CMVexSk

Here's a video of Angel Giraldez using lots of matte medium if you need ideas

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

KozmoNaut posted:

Two Ikea Tertial desk lamps with 1150 lumen daylight (5500-6500K) LED bulbs.

This! Super cheap setup and works great

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Furism posted:

I'm starting to use Retarder more and more as a thinner, and it seems to work quite well. So it got me wondering, what are the differences between using water, retarder, medium or flow improver to thin down paint? Also I'm using a wet palette but that seems to mostly keep the paint from drying, it doesn't seem to really thin the paint at all.

Acrylic paints are basically just acrylic binder and pigment. Acrylic binder is just plastic that holds pigment and is water soluble until it dries when it is water resistant. Water soluble means that when you add water it literally becomes thinner (acrylic particles being spread out in the volume of water you mixed in). If you add too much water you separate the acrylic too far apart and it causes the paint to break and not stick together which means you don't get good coverage.

Medium is literally just acrylic binder without any pigment which means if you add it to your paint it thins out the colour (less pigment per acrylic) without thinning the consistency of your paint. You can basically thin as hard as you want with medium without worrying about your paint breaking.

Retarder extends the time it takes for your paint to dry which allows you to do wet blending which is basically just mixing paints on the surface of your mini.

Flow Improver is a mixture of (gloss?) medium, thinner and retarder so it basically does all of the above at once which may or may not be what you want. The thinning makes it easier to shoot out of your airbrush and the retarder prevents it from drying too early and building up dried paint on your needle.

If you pick up paint and then brush it against an empty spot of your wet palette it will pick up water from the palette and thin your paint. If you're just drawing paint and then going straight to your mini then no, it won't be thinned at all.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Stopped by the art store today and they had some Winson and Newton Series 7 available (yay!) and they had a size 0 for 30% off Clearance (yay!) because it was a display model (oh)



Gave it a dip in water and some brush cleaner



It started separating when it dried so I just gave it another clean hopefully I can recondition it back to good health

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

SERPUS posted:

Is that even fixable?

The actual hairs themselves are fine so I'm hoping the conditioner will straighten them out overnight.

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