|
Eej posted:Stopped by the art store today and they had some Winson and Newton Series 7 available (yay!) and they had a size 0 for 30% off Clearance (yay!) because it was a display model (oh)  Rinsed out the Masters Cleaner and gave it a twirl and it seems to mostly keep its point. Couple of stray hairs that don't snap into place so I think I'll just try conditioning it again for another day to see if I can convince them to hold shape.
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2020 23:58
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 15:00 |
|
|
Phi230 posted:So I want to paint some Black Templars but I've never painted pure black before. Here's a tryhard method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyXzfVO2Kdw It uses a blue tinged chromatic black for highlights and a magenta tinged chromatic black for shadows. Eej fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Sep 15, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2020 20:18
|
|
|
LifeLynx posted:Anyone have good examples of blue - purple - pink gradients? I've been trying to do it with drybrushing, but it's not looking how I want.  Something like this? (Not mine)
|
|
#
¿
Sep 17, 2020 03:43
|
|
|
Ishvara posted:What is some of the best advice you all have for caring for brushes? I’ve just been using cheap 3-8 dollar brushes from michaels but they seem to go bad after only a couple hours each. I’m brand new and just got the Infiniti’s box I’m not going to lie I’m a little in over my head. Don't dip your brush dry into paint Don't let paint get into the ferrule (metal part that holds the base of the brush hairs) Don't let paint dry on the brush Don't use hot water to clean your brush Don't store your brushes with the hairs pointing down unless you're using a plastic sleeve to prevent it from smushing hairs Don't let your brushes dry with the hairs standing up because water can drain down into the ferrule If you want to give your brushes a longer life (and also your future nicer brushes) grab some Master's Brush Cleaner which is usually carried by Michaels and any art store. It's a soap + conditioner so what you do is rinse off your brush, then drag it in the container until it works up a lather, rinse off and lather up again until you don't see any paint come out, rinse off once more, dry it a little bit so it doesn't lather up then drag into the container, shape it to a point and put it away.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 22, 2020 01:37
|
|
|
xposting from 40k thread Eej posted:Did a Skorpekh Destroyer as a colour test for my Necrons and I'm pretty happy with it. I think I can go wilder on my other ones now that I have a visualization of where I want colours to go and I'll probably mask the sword handles and go really wild spraying the power swords next time. Really liked having orange ink on hand to bring back colour when I was messing around with trying to create colour gradients on the power swords. Maybe I'll grab some yellow ink and just do the swords entirely with those two colours for my next few models. I'm not sure the safety of cadmium yellow though? I assume it'll be fine if I'm already wearing my respirator and I do my airbrushing outside due to lack of space indoors.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 25, 2020 01:32
|
|
|
I ordered a pair of Raphael 8404s, size 1 and size 00, from Jacksons Art back in July 27 via cheap snailmail, no tracking shipping and got them today, September 30. But hey, they were like half regular price so I guess if you're not in a rush it's a pretty good deal despite the covid shipping delay...LifeLynx posted:I'm about to look up a basic airbrush kit tomorrow. Hopefully they're not too expensive? I don't know the first thing about them, but there's a Miniac video about just that. You probably want something like Badger 105 - $75 USD on sale generic AS186 - $100 USD or so then a hose and a badger adapter which is like another $30 And those are good enough for entry and intermediate level usage. The compressor you'll probably never ditch and a hose is a hose so the only thing you might conceivably upgrade is the airbrush.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2020 08:06
|
|
|
One thing to note about Badger Stynylrez primer is that it turns irreversibly chunky in cold temperatures so you literally can't buy it during the winter if it gets cold where you live.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2020 08:47
|
|
|
It's a post processed image to boost contrast but you can probably get something close to that in real life if you slam some naphthol red ink through an airbrush after you've done your tones
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2020 22:27
|
|
|
Silly Putty works as a mask too if you're careful not to overspray past the putty (I always spray past the putty)
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2020 17:03
|
|
|
Seems fine to me, you can go a little harder with the highlights and shadows if you want. It won't show up under your basecoat unless your are using thin glazes or inks anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2020 21:34
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Just wondering, what Vallejo metal color is roughly equivalent to GW's leadbelcher? The closest should be Vallejo Model Air Gunmetal actually
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2020 19:25
|
|
|
 I tried to do a Non-Metallic Metal doing wet blending for the first time and I guess I picked my palette wrong because it looks like wood and not any kind of metal at all. But I really like the way the effect came out... Now I'm thinking I'm gonna roll with it and have all my Necrons slightly insane and think they're actually Organic and what's more Lifeform than wearing Organic Material on your totally Organic body?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 10, 2020 07:31
|
|
|
Spiv posted:Looks more like stone, than wood, to me, but does have an odd appeal to it. I like it. Well damnit  Now I just see stone now e: I figured it out, I need to add more defined wood grain But now I kinda like Necrons having to use locally sourced stone for repair during stasis Eej fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Oct 11, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2020 06:25
|
|
|
Giant Ethicist posted:Also, for "contrasts on larger models," here's Japanese wunderkind mini painter Senasuke using Contrasts to paint a Gundam of all things (in Japanese, but YouTube's auto-translate subtitles aren't terrible so you can get the basic idea): This is wild, I love it e: lady proceeds to freehand panel lines on completely flat surfaces with no guidelines using only a brush Eej fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Oct 13, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2020 22:14
|
|
|
x-post from the hams threadEej posted:Completed my first (half) unit of Necrons, I'm excited the skeles are back in town I'm not sure which base looks best so I probably will just randomly do both rocky/sandy and cracked earth textures for variety
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2020 04:10
|
|
|
I love that they look like they stepped out of WHFB but HD
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2020 12:45
|
|
|
Der Shovel posted:As a slight counterpoint, I bought a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution a few years ago to replace my generic Iwata clone and it's been extremely awesome. But I would definitely second the recommendation to get a decent compressor. I'm rocking a very base level Clas Ohlson model and it's OK. It's fine. It's fiiiine. It's OK. Well it's not, really. It doesn't have a reserve tank so the air comes straight out of the compressor into the hose, which means it's basically running non-stop while I paint, and it can't hold pressure at the advertised maximum PSI. How is it anyway? I only got started on airbrushing a couple months ago with a Badger and there's a dang Harder and Steenbeck Evolution on sale for £136... whatever that is in real money
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2020 11:56
|
|
|
Finished painting my murder buckets as a break after doing my Skorpekh Lord
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2020 22:46
|
|
|
If you have an airbrush you gotta use inks they're so so nice
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 01:27
|
|
|
Get a basic set of ink colours so you can use any kind of ink to bring back colour saturation on your models after you've highlighted and shaded a ton
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 02:16
|
|
|
Yeah Liquitex are some of the most popular and available (like every art store should have it so you don't have to worry about the weird state of availability and overcharging of hobby art supplies on amazon right now). I would say you want titanium white, carbon black (I use this a lot for pin washing actually, because I don't wanna get into huffing spirits) and then whatever colours match what your current palette requirements are right now.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 03:24
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Can't you make your own panel liner with ink, medium, and flow improver? Heck I just use ink, glaze medium and water and it works just fine
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 20:41
|
|
|
Looks comfier in the palm and more easy for fine rotations though so what's a little butt plug between friends
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2020 12:14
|
|
|
If you are going to colour exclusively in inks, you should be using white and grey inks to establish tone first and then add value with coloured inks. Inks are very transparent so the zenithal highlighting actually shows through which lets you focus on how light falls on your model first and then add colour afterwards.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2020 19:41
|
|
|
Dreylad posted:I managed to snag some vallejo aluminum and was going to just mix in some orange/red to make a copper colour, or is that not a good idea? I'd be just doing it with a regular brush, not an airbrush. Mixing regular paint into metallic can kill the metallic sheen. That's why Vallejo sells Metallic Medium so you can mix your own metallic colours!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2020 04:59
|
|
|
Increase pressure, spray from further away, feather the nozzle more so you spray less at a time, don't focus the spray in one area too long
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2020 08:28
|
|
|
So I thought I'd give zenithal highlighting a go with inks since I haven't really done any priming with them yet and whaddya know it went real smooth. Of course now I gotta colour it with inks or very patiently apply thin layers of paint if I want to keep all that work but what can ya do
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2020 22:17
|
|
|
 Yeah the zenithal is a bit heavy which is a combination of the model being sculpted to catch light from the front (I sprayed white from basically only vertical) as well as only using grey mixed with black to bring back some shadows. I could've sprayed straight black but I figured it would be too harsh? There's a bit more contrast on the rear which doesn't catch as much light. But mostly I was content with having the panels being so white cause I'm gonna paint it like a shiny beetle
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2020 22:40
|
|
|
  Kinda wish I just kept it at the base blue which was a beautiful shade but this is fun too. Inks, love them!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 23, 2020 03:15
|
|
|
Tamiya stuff is solid, I have the sprue cutters from gunpla building and got the pin vise recently and they're both tools that feel like they'll never break.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 24, 2020 02:32
|
|
|
Tried to razzle dazzle it up at the end with Liquitex Iridescent Medium but of course what is essentially glitter doesn't show up in still photos 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 25, 2020 20:53
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I just saw the most mind-blowing hack on reddit: This isn't as cool as supergluing a nut to the bottom of your rhino, unscrewing the spring loaded part of the handle and screwing it into the bolt underneath
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2020 00:56
|
|
|
Yeah airbrushing is great especially when you're working on stuff with delicate features like feathers. Also do Sanguinary Guard really have a giant jet engine strapped to their back lol
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2020 21:15
|
|
|
Spray further away
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2020 02:03
|
|
|
You generally don't airbrush details like pouches.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2020 10:17
|
|
|
My experience doing details with ink is that low pressures don't let it spray properly and I can't ever get it to not splatter if I'm spraying close, as if there's a minimum distance required for drying. This may or may not be due to my Badger 105 shooting out gobs of ink at once though.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2020 01:31
|
|
|
Mirthless posted:Ahhh, fuckit, $88 shipped is good enough This wouldn't be so bad if there was any quality control on what they put out for sale. Trying to buy stuff on Amazon is such a crapshoot. Super cheap quick release adapters! Multiple Amazon reviews saying that some of them screw on properly and others leak air but that's ok, it's $5! My first AS186 had an irreparable leak in one of the bends of the metal valves so I had to return it and buy an identical AS186 from a different listing by the same seller. I know we touched on the ethics of our hobby the other day but the fact that so many of our supplies don't function as intended but it's ok because it's cheaper than ever is very uncomfortable. Having a bunch of dodgy bits mixed in with the useful ones and having to return very obviously malfunctioning stuff to Amazon (which apparently is 40% likely to just be straight up thrown into the garbage) is so wasteful and frankly lovely to our already dying planet.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2020 21:35
|
|
|
 Ahh I forgot to base the cartouches black so the metallic came out weird. Oh well.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2020 22:52
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:You can just paint it on too. It doesn't have to go through an airbrush. Welp, guess I'll have to check out Vallejo or MIG matte varnish
|
|
#
¿
Nov 6, 2020 00:42
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 15:00 |
|
|
SiKboy posted:Quick Question: If I've put Agrellan Earth (the GW cracking technical paint) on a base, but now its dried realised I didnt put it on thickly enough and the cracks are tiny, can I just slap a thicker layer on top or will that not work for reasons? No reason if shouldn't work. Might be a little taller than you anticipated (obviously). I would try experimenting with painting your existing layer darker brown or using an agrax wash to make it darker so when your newer, thicker layer starts cracking it'll show an exaggerated darker earth layer underneath.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 6, 2020 02:03
|
|