Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

«‹›3 »

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

MasterSlowPoke posted:

You really need some photos of models in this thread.

Agreed.

serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Mar 11, 2015

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 15:57

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:50

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Pyrolocutus posted:

Would it be prudent to add links for companies that produce basing items, not limited to but including base inserts, flock, and small items (crates, barrels, etc) as a resource?

Please do. Most of the issue with getting these things is that the websites are normally garbage so you're never sure what you're getting.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 16:30

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

I love all of the models posted on this page, especially Ork with Fighter jet strapped to his back.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 18:16

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Post 9-11 User posted:

I mentioned before how the Citadel tree set is awesome and I liked everything about it. It's really detailed and fun to paint.

The Wall Of Martyrs set is not, both the fortification and the defense line. It's clearly computer designed, which is fine but it means they could have fixed the flaws so easily yet didn't. There are dozens of soft edges that make it very easy for paint to run off onto the wrong area. Some details are simply wrong: the front of the wall has metal bands and two of the bands vanish when they get to the back of the wall- they just stop because the producers forgot about them. The end sections of the defense line are four of the exact same piece, an added touch of laziness.

Use dark colors and lots of drybrushing if you have this kit. I went for a bone and gold scheme, way too many touchups necessary.

The new terrain is uniformly poo poo and I detest it. One of the best sets they ever made was the warhammer walls and fences.

Also yes skarsnik with the model ownage.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 18:28

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Skarsnik posted:

Back then it would have been
Mechrite Red, then layered with Blood Red. (airbrushed on the dread)

Highlighted with BA Orange and then Vomit Brown.

For the captain there was a Baal Red glaze done before the top highlight to get that proper deep red. Then a real high top white highlight to make it look shiny

The reds are basically unchanged so you can swap all those for the new colours no probs - as in the librarian shoulders and gun

I really regret not getting my hands on that captain model. he's ace.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 18:36

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Skarsnik posted:

Good job I bought two then, you want one?

What do you want in exchange, i'm sure I have something knocking around here. Or just cold hard cash?

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 18:46

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Sometimes I think i might have a chance at winning a painting award and then I see things like this and go back to my hovel. Crystal Brush's 2015 winner.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2015 21:43

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

I think so. It won the large scale award and best in show.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2015 21:57

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

I thought that was gonna be 54mm or something. If its really 10 inches tall it shouldnt be in a miniature competition.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2015 22:45

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Skarsnik posted:

Sevatar incoming:

Possible the most model ever. Pure distilled grimdark.

Owns. Seriously good.

Reminds me that I need to get him still.

# ¿ Mar 24, 2015 20:10

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Star Man posted:

I'm trying out a blue/white/green color scheme on these genestealers. I primed them in white, washed over them with a dark blue, and am going over them again with a white drybrush. I'm mainly trying to get them table quality and have only done these two models. I'm looking for feedback.

Paint the base. Something dark, maybe a dark brown colour. At the moment its just a white blob with a few dashes of colour. With the base done the whole composition will be different.

# ¿ Mar 27, 2015 10:54

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Its not going to do what he wants it to do. He needs to ask someone nicely to send him a 3d model of one he can get printed by shapeways.

# ¿ Mar 30, 2015 11:14

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

These own, you own, do more of them for maximum ownage.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2015 11:19

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Skarsnik posted:

Why when Blood for the Blood God is much better?

I don't know about this, it looks good when it first goes on, but after a few days it really really seems to dull down.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2015 09:41

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Skarsnik posted:

I honestly cant tell the difference looks wise, but BFTBG can just be glopped on straight from the pot

Oh I agree, I used it on Curze and it was really useful, but looking at it now its like its turned matt instead of keeping that glossy effect it has for the first few days.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2015 10:01

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Skarsnik posted:

ah ok, I've not seen that yet but I'll take your word for it

Maybe mixing it up with some 'ardcoat would help, or glossing after its dried, but that kinda defeats the point of it being pre-mixed and easy

Yeah i've glossed over the bits that went a bit naff and it looks good again, but the whole point of that paint is that I dont have to gently caress about using mediums or thinning and gloss etc.

BULBASAUR posted:

I've been experimenting with leaving oil washes on my models for a day or so before 'taking them back' with mineral spirits:

The technique is hell on transfers, even with a thick coat of varnish, but I kinda dig the results.

Thanks man. I really appreciate it. One day I'll man up and paint a primarch like you!

Seriously you've made non boring Iron Warriors. Thats a great scheme you have. Hopefully you'll get Perturabo this year.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2015 10:19

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Hollismason posted:

Please don't use household products like floor shine, windex, and any other product you'd use in your kitchen through your airbrush. If you use Vallejo paints, use Vallejo Thinner and Cleaner, if you use another brand use that brands thinner and cleaner.

They're specifically formulated to deal with and work best with that specific paint.

Sorry to nitpick.

Theres nothing wrong with using that stuff in an airbrush. Please don't try and promote things that are just not true.

# ¿ Apr 2, 2015 23:41

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

You'll go wrong with an airbrush if you don't know what you're doing period. I've seen people destroy airbrushes from cleaning it incorrectly using proper airbrush poo poo because they've bent the needle. Stop trying to poo poo this thread up like you've done for all the others.

# ¿ Apr 2, 2015 23:50

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Skarsnik posted:

Gutrot Spume incoming:

Good to do something a bit different, made a nice change from power armour

Came together surprisingly quickly too

loving fantastic. Brilliant colour choice for the tentacles to contrast the armour without dominating the model.

# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 19:03

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

berzerkmonkey posted:

Anyone who has done the hairspray chipping technique: Do you have to begin the chipping process immediately after applying your top paint layer, or can you wait? I've seen both "begin the process immediately after your paint layer is dry to the touch" and "whenever you get around to it..."

Acrylics are dry to the touch in a couple minutes but completely cured in a few hours depending on brand. You want to start fairly quickly, but you dont have to go right at it straight away. The longer you leave it the bigger the chunks of paint you pull off will be.

# ¿ Apr 12, 2015 21:07

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

signalnoise posted:

Question to painters better than myself

What kind of paints do you guys use? I have experimented with Reaper, Reaper HD, Citadel dry and technical, P3, Minitaire, and Vallejo Game Air. I haven't found one I really really like other than VGA but I now have over 200 paints and I can never seem to find one set of tools I really can stick with. It's an ever-expanding collection where I use whatever is newest. I don't like this. Do you guys have just massive paint collections or do you have a set you can stick with?

I use a little bit of everything. I think I have paints from pretty much every manufacturer out there. You get a feel for whats better in certain areas, and then you just generally prefer some manufacturers for some tasks. I will always use GW paints for doing skin tones for example, as I know how they mix up and what tones you can add in without it looking weird. Similarly, I'll probably always use VMA metallics.

# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 17:53

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

signalnoise posted:

OK so what are the preferred best use paints? Maybe some paint picking suggestions could go in the OP by purpose?

Its really all down to personal preference. You must have some colours that you absolutely loathe in the range you have, which is when you try and find one you like. I for example love the VMA blues, but hate their reds so use p3 for that. But I found this out after using them and realising I just didn't get on with that paint and replacing them as needed.

# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 21:31

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

More that one of them blew their hand off with a cannon. Then relearnt to sculpt left handed by doing one of the best fantasy miniatures ever made in the Green Knight.

# ¿ Apr 16, 2015 15:40

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Miles O'Brian posted:

Does anyone have pics of those kickin' rad bone and turquoise Dark Eldar that some goon painted a while back? They had pink accents and were gorgeous, particularly the Scourges.

I didn't save them to my inspiration folder and now I can't find them.

You want to find RichyP's posts in the old miniature thread. He painted them.

# ¿ Apr 22, 2015 14:05

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Miles O'Brian posted:

Holy poo poo it was 5 years ago.

He might have painted two more since then haha.

# ¿ Apr 22, 2015 16:56

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Super Waffle posted:

I just don't understand these absurdly large models. Never mind the game implications, I'm talking as an engineer from the construction perspective. You can't really call that a miniature anymore. The thought of putting together something that big, out of resin, with superglue? It makes no sense. At that size you should be using screws, bolts, nuts, actual hardware. It should have a metal skeleton that resin puts are glued on to.

I...I just can't. I can't.

*cough*

Never again.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2015 15:06

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

krushgroove posted:

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news: http://warhammerworld.games-workshop.com/citadel-miniatures-hall/

No-one will go and it will be free within 6 months.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2015 16:27

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Super Waffle posted:

Which was the stripper that also eats super glue?

This is a sentence i had to read a few times.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2015 13:19

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

This is phenomenal

http://mumumuno53.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-68.html

I can't even wrap my head around how thats been made and painted to look like that.

# ¿ May 7, 2015 11:55

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Theres a lot of people that can't tell the difference between NMM and Metallics in this thread right now.

# ¿ May 8, 2015 20:11

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

treeboy posted:

apologies if this is common knowledge, but i've been out of TG for awhile. I've been having a ton of issues with Seraphim Sepia that I swear I never had with Gryphonne Sepia. Particularly i used to do a really awesome 'antique gold' effect with chainmail/boltgun and 2-3 layers of gryphonne, it'd come out a really slick dark gold color pretty quickly, but i swear the coverage on seraphim is poo poo, i'm 3-4 applications into the process and instead of a nice gold color its a dirty silver.

did i get a bad batch? i bought the pot a couple weeks ago and just got around to using it, looks like there's a fair amount of sludge sitting in the bottom that doesn't want to mix back into the wash, or is this par for the course?

Possibly, but more likely you're having the correct effect. The previous washes still had a kind of glaze effect where they would cover flat areas very well. The new shades are designed as pure washes so will slide off flat surfaces and head to recesses much more aggressively. I dont think the new seraphim sepia will do the same thing anymore, you'll want to make a glaze to do that.

# ¿ May 9, 2015 19:44

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

treeboy posted:

been looking at the home made washes video from dakka, is there a decent guide for making glazes? Didn't see anything in the OP.

Just thin some paint down. Washes are difficult to make because you need to add something that breaks the surface tension. Glazes you don't want that to happen so you can just thin normal paint down to the right consistency.

# ¿ May 9, 2015 22:11

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Moola posted:

Anyone have any advice or links for painting models to look like statues

specifically SLIGHTLY worn gold and silver statues

???

Google antique silver/gold statues. Copy.

# ¿ May 10, 2015 08:50

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Yeah don't do that.

# ¿ May 10, 2015 17:03

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Moola posted:

Thanks, I thought I remembered hearing this before so I must have logged that somewhere in the old noggin

The big puffy ones are great for doing weathering powders too.

# ¿ May 19, 2015 23:15

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Dont ever buy spray primer from a diy shop. Thats the poo poo people spray on fence panels and you'll ruin models with that stuff. You just want a decent can of flat black/grey non alcoholic paint.

# ¿ May 23, 2015 11:18

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Moola posted:

Halfords sprays are really good

Halfords grey acrylic is real good yeah. I use that or their black.

# ¿ May 23, 2015 16:25

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Skarsnik posted:

Forgeworld have always been super quick in replying to any emails I've sent them, just ask them for a pdf

You'll have to include your order number for them to send you instructions these days, but they still will.

# ¿ May 27, 2015 11:31

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

The forge world ones are based on the current rhino kit, so the old rhinos will be too small.

# ¿ Jun 8, 2015 19:17

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:50

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

I've posted my thoughts about it in the 40k thread but really, I think of it as the airbrushing equivalent of basecoat+drybrush.

# ¿ Jun 11, 2015 11:33

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

«‹›3 »