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Crossposting from the terrain thread: Haven't seen this site before: http://www.lotrscenerybuilder.org/ it's wargaming & Lord of the Rings fans who made loads of the scenery from the LoTR trilogy at a wargaming scale. Very very nice stuff!
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Apr 4, 2016 13:27
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Skarsnik posted:I recently used clean spirit to strip a forge world tank successfully Yep, totally, have added that to the OP, also that they should be put in whatever stripping solution you use at room temperature, cold weather doesn't really let the chemical reaction take place very well.
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Apr 6, 2016 14:25
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(I kinda forgot about them)
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While we're talking about photographing models, I added Leperflesh's suggestions to richyp in the OP, the photography section there was sorely lacking in material apart from a link to a long and detailed (and very good) post from Tale of Painters. It's kind of a minefield to talk about photography with folks who aren't into photography (kind of like talking wargaming rules to 'normal people') and I'd love to write something that can help painters at different 'stages', for lack of a better term: - a basic guide for people with no photography experience with a smartphone ('basic' meaning looking at just a few settings) - a basic guide for people with no photography experience with a point and shoot camera - a more detailed guide for both and leave the advanced guide to the Tale of Painters link ...but I'd welcome someone writing these guides, or at least a starting point I can add links to. I think keeping things simple for the basic stuff is important, otherwise you can make people's eyes just glaze over, but it needs to be stressed how important these sometimes hidden settings are. TouchToneDialing posted:I love seeing other people's ghetto studio light setups! I use an eames chair beside a window most of the time for mine. this is about the most ideal lighting setup you can get (I would add maybe diffusing cloth on the windows) - most photographers spend tons of cash trying to replicate that natural lighting! krushgroove fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Apr 8, 2016 |
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Apr 8, 2016 16:23
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I did another review video, this time for a tidy little air compressor from Sparmax: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJqrhqD3OJ4 It's about twice the price of the no-name air compressors but half the price of pro-level tank compressors. I think it's a great first compressor and when you get a more expensive compressor it makes a good travel/backup/loaner compressor. TouchToneDialing posted:Repainted another action figure. Saw your post on Reddit...that is awesome. I haven't even seen the movie yet but now I want to get the plastic toy and do the same thing.
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Apr 10, 2016 14:12
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Frobbe posted:The Neo for iwata airbrush, any comments on this? Pros: It works, it's got PTFE seals so you can use enamel/lacquers and their related thinners, it's cheap Cons: the threaded paint cups are annoying as gently caress to clean - imagine using black paint, flushing for your color change then spraying white and having your white paint tainted by the black... quote:the compressor looks decent, Eh...see the OP for comments about compressors. I may overdo it for the no-name stuff so it will work but build quality is quite variable. If you only airbrush irregularly it'll probably last you a while though. quote:and the remaining bits and bobs are generic, but i don't think air in particular cares what kind of hose it's going through. I have had shoddy air hoses, so although they are fairly generic and mass-produced you can get bad ones. A leak will force your compressor to run more often than it should, which will make it wear out sooner than it should. grassy gnoll posted:Somewhat related, I keep thinking about buying baby's first airbrush. Are there any detailed demonstration videos where someone's doing a ~25mm miniature with an airbrush and showing the process, like Faust's painting videos? I'm not aware of any videos like that, but it's something that I should do eventually. I do plan to do a series of airbrushing videos but there's so much to cover the playlist will be tons of videos. Tabletop Minions just started doing a video series on airbrushing though, not sure if he's going to do something like that. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Apr 10, 2016 |
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Apr 10, 2016 16:29
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So, just for a bit of market research, I'm just curious what you guys think when you hear the word 'omega' in relation to wargaming. I think it can apply to modern and sci-fi settings just fine, but does it fit (or is it generic enough) for historical/fantasy settings as well?
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Apr 11, 2016 14:53
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DeadGame posted:Okay goons! I'm about to airbrush. I'm going to make some World Eaters legion test miniatures. I've got new equipment: Yeast posted:Tanks Tanks Tanks As I posted in the 40K thread, you should join up with the Oath Thread as well, there's a brand new one starting in about a week!
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Apr 26, 2016 14:13
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Just use cold tones of the colors you want them to be based on? Shade with lots of blues and use hard edges for zenithal priming/preshading, that's the direction I'm thinking.
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Apr 26, 2016 15:25
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Get a bottle of the cleaner anyway, you may like using it better. I use it when paints has dried just a bit in the airbrush, it softens the paint faster than plain water. You may want to get a cleaning station and airbrush rest, make sure you have all the right connections, otherwise it sounds like you're good to go! Also Stynlrez works really good, everyone has their own favorite brands and there are also plenty of painters that have issues with the Vallejo primers if you do some reading around.
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Apr 26, 2016 19:29
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I did a thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r29R6ExH_p0 Basically I took the Forge World Working with Resin Models pamphlet and went through all the tools they suggest, added a few of my own suggestions and decided halfway through the recording that I'll need to make a part 2 and part 3 to this video.
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Apr 28, 2016 11:07
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BULBASAUR posted:Hey, this needs more love. Not only is this really cool, but your review of Ammo by Mig was ace. Just got a copy thanks to your review. Top notch stuff! Thanks! I really really wish the audio wasn't so variable, I had a mic malfunction and didn't realize it until I had done a few hour's worth of videos. Please let me know if it takes away from the video or information at all. I was on the fence about re-recording the whole thing for days, and then just said screw it, let's just get it made. I needed to have this one done before posting the many unbagging videos I have for some FW models I'll be building. Also you'd be doing me a huge favor if you posted on the Ammo FB that my video encouraged you to get his book - I was trying to tell Mig at a recent trade show that he could do with a lot more wargamer-oriented stuff, right now they only have 1 book aimed at Flames of War players doing 15mm tanks, but they're expanding into other stuff like Gundam/Gunpla as well with brighter colors and a space ship color set so I think wargaming is next for them.
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Apr 29, 2016 10:19
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A Patriot 105 can get down to a few millimeters across with a steady hand, a close spraying distance and low air pressure, that has a 0.4mm needle, a smaller needle can get down to the width of a hair with practice.
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Apr 29, 2016 13:48
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 THE NEW OATH THREAD IS LIVE AND WAITING! The Oath Thread, Season 7: Always Be Painting (Your Gaming/Figure Models) Get your stuff painted! Be motivated! Win prizes! The Oath Thread is a year-long thread (Today, the 1st of May to the last day of April 2017) that lets you collect points for painting your models each month. At the end of the year the points are totalled up and the top scorers get their pick of fantastic sponsor prizes from companies like KR Multicase, Wargames Tournaments and more! You can paint one model at a time, or entire squads, teams or groups. You can drop in and drop out at any time if all you want to do is get your stuff painted, and the rules are easy to read and we're quite an inclusive bunch. Drop in and say hi, and get your stuff painted!
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May 1, 2016 16:40
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Today I found out that citadel washes now only come in ridiculous oversized pots. Make your own! So much cheaper and you can make as much as you need, cost of 12p for the same amount that GW used to charge £2.30 for.
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May 6, 2016 09:09
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Lethemonster posted:I need recommendations for two things: quote:I want to take better mini photos. Any good tutorials to do with that would also been awesome if you guys have any.
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May 11, 2016 16:11
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Those look neat, but why is the turtle-man using a smaller turtle as a blunt force object?
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May 13, 2016 13:26
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signalnoise posted:AIRBRUSH QUESTION If you have serious amounts of paint built up and you don't know what type of paint you're dealing with, you can't go wrong with cellulose thinner. The airbrushes you have use PTFE or Teflon seals/washers so they are fine for harsh thinners like cellulose thinner. Chuck everything in an old glass jar or metal can, cover with thinner and leave for a few minutes. You can also use white spirit/mineral spirits, which is maybe slightly less toxic - it may take a little longer to do its work but it may be easier to find, depending if you have DIY or paint stores near you. With these you can also use an ultrasonic cleaner but soaking just takes a little longer to work. Once it's all clean rinse, well with water. As you're assembling, putting a drop of airbrush lubricant (Badger sells 'Regdab', iwata's is called Super Lubricant or something like that) on all the threads, needle, inside the nozzle, on the contact points of the trigger. For thinning the paint, water works fine with most paints, but won't work with Tamiya paints, you'll need the Tamiya thinner. If in doubt, use the thinner made by the paint manufacturer. Be careful using the pipe cleaner type brushes, I accidentally pulled out a seal in my 105 one time and had to send it to get repaired. Also, the metal ends can scratch the finish pretty badly. You'll still need something really thin to get into the nozzle - ideally an old airbrush needle (everybody ends up with one eventually, but the tip needs to be straightened out) but you can use a thin sewing pin with its blunt end shoved into a wine cork or something. In case anyone is curious about the new Badger Xtreme Patriot 105, I have a first look here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV3lJNyeuRc
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May 20, 2016 09:30
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Lethemonster posted:I think the moment I've finished prepping this thing I'll use it as a boomerang. But then you'll just have to prep it again!  Really, though, the Oath Thread would love to see you return!
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May 23, 2016 12:36
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jadebullet posted:I need help with my first foray into airbrushing. I picked up a Badger Sotar 20/20 off of ebay that was listed in great, working condition. I got everything hooked up correctly, but when I went to test fire the airbrush with water in the pot(I wanted to make sure it worked properly before switching to paint) the airbrush barely sprayed anything, and instead blew the water out of the pot. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Let some airbrush thinner soak in the paint cup for half an hour or so, or use an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one. My favorite is to use cellulose thinner because it will eat away any paint. After a soak, flush out the cleaner and put in some fresh cleaner or water and see if it will spray. That may get you going at least, but the nozzle of the Sotar is so tiny you'll probably have to clean out the nozzle with thinner and a stiff paint brush,no matter what.
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May 23, 2016 23:12
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Avenging Dentist posted:Yes. I soaked them overnight in fact, since the shine wasn't coming off. That didn't seem to change anything. I guess I'll have to see what the condition of my test is in the morning. At least I already know paint goes on ok over the primer, so worst-case scenario, I just have to make sure I can get a good amount of protection from a coat of varnish on top. As well as thoroughly washing with warm soapy water, you need to spray the models at room temperature to make sure the paint sticks properly. The surface of the model needs to be warm enough basically. Also, paint doesn't fully cure for a full day or two, so testing durability after just a few minutes isn't a good measure really. jadebullet posted:No dice. I removed the needle and took apart the front section, cleaned up the inside of the pot and the paint tube with alcohol so it is very clean, put it back together and it is still blowing a poo poo ton of air out of the pot You need to soak the nozzle (the tiny tiny part that the needle goes through) in thinner and use a brush to carefully dislodge what's clogging it.
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May 24, 2016 10:37
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spectralent posted:The part this is called "Fluid nozzle" here: That piece they call the needle cap (everyone calls the parts at the end different things) should just...screw on? If it snaps into place or something that's kind of weird. The fluid nozzle is held in place by the air cap (I'm using the terms in that picture), then the fluid nozzle will either fall out or need a small wrench to be unscrewed itself. It's the fluid nozzle that has your clog and dried paint. Soak that in Dettol, isopropyl alcohol, cellulose thinner, white spirit or something else that will eat paint and use the needle of the airbrush or a hair brush to remove the clog or push it through the fluid nozzle. You can break apart a toothpick to get tiny splinters and use that to clean out the nozzle too - the wood is softer than the metal so it won't harm anything unless you get a splinter stuck in the nozzle (which you can remove with the airbrush needle). The airbrush post in the OP has some tips for you as well, including these: quote:
krushgroove fucked around with this message at 10:03 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 10:01
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Lethemonster posted:Honestly I'm doubting that you even get 12ml and wonder if they've gotten away with just saying the pots are 12ml but the contents aren't. Yeah I've seen it pointed out before that the pots are 12ml but the paint content is about 10ml. I should measure it, I have a bunch of empty Citadel pots from my dropper bottle swaps. Also, you don't mention using stainless steel ball bearings, so I hope you did that, don't want your paints ruined from rust.
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May 30, 2016 11:28
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wdarkk posted:What's a good airbrush primer? Badger Stynlrez is great and all I use. But then I'm a big fan of Badger. I've heard from some scale modelers that the Vallejo primer is too plasticky and doesn't stick well, but who knows how well anyone is cleaning and prepping a surface they're painting on. Lethemonster posted:Does anyone know of any tutorials on building your own thingy that you mount the mini on while you paint it so you dont have to touch it while you paint it? They tend to have a bit at the top you can rest fingers on. I bought 50 used wine corks and stuck paper clips into them. I also drilled holes into a bit of scrap wood to hold the corks. It's a bit much since I only really needed a few, but Blu-Tak or Uhu's White Tack on top of an old pill bottle or even a thick wooden dowel provides more of a handhold. There's someone that's making really posh ones with a metal bit that extends over the model for your index finger to rest on, but those are about 15 euros apiece, I reckon I could make one myself for cheaper.
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Jun 1, 2016 10:19
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Lethemonster posted:I noticed my blu tak was missing when I went to use it to mask off bits of my necron scythe. The mystery was solved when I found the dog frowning in the garden struggling to get out his tacky-poos. /thread that's it, thread's done! 
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Jun 1, 2016 12:25
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I'm a terrible gearhead as well...for anything, whether it's sports, painting, models, games, whatever. I'm even worse when thinking 'WEEEllllll...*I* could make that...'
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Jun 1, 2016 12:34
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Mango Polo posted:I'm in Spain, what can I use to strip off paint from plastic and resin models? Hopefully something that is not brake fluid. Isopropyl alcohol Chill la Chill posted:I'd like to see where the in-vogue painting trends are going but you can't really tell if the minis you look at are a couple years outdated. Search for photo albums from Euromilitaire, the guys from that travel Europe to enter their models in competitions, Euromilitaire is one of the last stops on the tour.
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Jun 3, 2016 19:30
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CommissarRed posted:Does anyone know of any sites aside from Bartertown or DakkaDakka where you can trade stuff? I have some Star Wars X-Wing miniatures and some board games i was hoping to unload for some fantasy miniatures or terrain, but haven't had much luck yet. I recently rounded out my board game collection through the many buy/sell groups on Facebook. No ebay fees and using PayPal I didn't get burnt. There's a couple of groups specifically for board games, another for X-wing, a few for 40K, etc.
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Jun 4, 2016 08:55
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The magazines are really helpful, and mostly concentrate on the one type of weathering that is the theme of each issue, whether it's dust, rust, grease, water, etc., but by no means are the model builds in each issue limited to just the theme of each issue. The PDFs are about 1/3 to 1/2 the length of a single model build that's featured in the Weathering Magazine, and there are 4-6 model builds in each issue of Weathering Magazine, with I think 4 issues per year. They're about 8 euro each, roughly, so about 10 GBP each with postage or if you get them from a model shop online. I have a subscription, I like them a lot. There's also an aircraft-specific weathering magazine. If you're in the UK or around scale model shops regularly there's also Tamiya Model Magazine, which I get, that covers a lot of bases from race cars to tanks and planes, but the same publisher puts out Military Model Magazine which is all tanks, and I think they do a military aircraft magazine as well.
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Jun 7, 2016 15:06
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KPC_Mammon posted:Does anyone have experience with ultrasonic cleaners? I was thinking of picking one up to help strip models and as a way to unfuck an airbrush if it comes to that (hopefully it won't). Indolent Bastard posted:They are ok, but I could live without it. Same thoughts here. When I get a really bad clog with an airbrush I just soak the parts in cellulose thinner and use a stiff boar brush and an old needle to get at the clog. Since the clog is usually in the nozzle, I have a very small glass jar I use to drop that into, and if the paint cup needs attention I have a Doritos salsa jar for soaking larger bits. Cellulose thinner is the 'gently caress you, paint' option of cleaning, it strips everything away.
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Jun 8, 2016 09:24
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TTerrible posted:Biostrip update. Did you let it soak overnight or just 15 minutes at a time, or something in between? As Skarsnik says the plastic should harden up again if you use mineral spirits but I don't know what is in Biostrip that eats the paint.
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Jun 8, 2016 20:12
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TTerrible posted:Overnight, and now it has had time to sit and dry out it has completely crumbled. It is like an old eraser. I need to try some more timed experiments with different things, I have enough Forge World casting gates lying around at this point. Basically though, for stripping anything that isn't styrene (hard plastic) what I would do with the harsh stuff like white spirit, Dettol, Biostrip, etc., is dunk it for no more than 10-15 minutes, brush away the paint, then dunk again for the a steadily decreasing amount of time because more of the plastic will be exposed as you go. Only with hard plastic or metal would it be OK to leave overnight, and even then no longer than 12 hours or so with white spirit. With white spirit or clean spirit you can leave plastic that's been softened out to air dry and the plastic will eventually harden again as the spirits evaporate out of the plastic.
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Jun 9, 2016 13:27
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TTerrible posted:For those in the UK looking at airbrush purchase, Barwells have just started stocking the new Xtreme Patriot 105 - cheaper than I got my standard 105 for. Very good price and UK support as well. This is the guy I help you to with painting classes. If anyone wants to see the action review I did of the Xtreme I posted it earlier in the thread but it's here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLCxXjtQBFU Links in the video and description to the unboxing and teardown.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:13
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I have their first leaf punch, it is truly awesome to use with real leaves. I picked up one of their texture rollers as well, but they've got version 2 of the leaf punch out now, so I'll have to get one of those and another roller or two. ...and I have bags of birch seed pods I haven't even opened yet. I am a model hoarder.
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Jun 11, 2016 18:23
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manchego posted:I'm ready to pull the trigger on purchasing a Badger Soto 20/20 and a Ninja compressor. As mentioned, get the Patriot for your first airbrush. No question. [quote="Skarsnik" post=""461201538"] Whats the difference to the standard one? [/quote] Mainly it has a fine detail needle but it's still good for basing most models. The PAC valve is ok but won't be used by most people. Also, loads of spares swaps with the regular Patriot. I did a video review and comparison with the regular Patriot, pretty sure I posted it earlier in the thread. E: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLCxXjtQBFU krushgroove fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Jun 19, 2016 |
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Jun 19, 2016 08:56
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I've seen filters used mostly for blending camouflage on scale models, but it probably has its uses for wargaming models (apart from models with camo). I've never tried them, I think in wargaming/figure painting terms it would be called a glaze. I don't have much practice painting faces, but I tried my Scale 75 colors for the first time last night on this 1/10th scale (180mm scale?) RC car driver figure:  the face is about 1 inch (25mm) across
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Jun 21, 2016 15:26
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Mig Jimenez has been demonstrating using filters for a while for scale modelers: https://youtu.be/DcsffcZUa6k in the same way that everyone has been saying - you can subtly change a base color so you don't have to repaint a large surface or use filters to unify camo areas and help tone down the high contrast areas of camo patterns.
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Jun 22, 2016 16:59
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