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reserved (I'm lazy and like being able to ? my own posts to find things and having a post on the first page is really useful for that).
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Mar 11, 2015 14:45
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krushgroove posted:I'm curious why most people seem to think that you must thin acrylics with distilled water? Because tap water is variable. Heavy mineral deposits or sulphur in the water could mess with your paints. I've never been worried and so just use tap water, but I can see why some people might care.
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Mar 12, 2015 14:10
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Unzip and Attack posted:Ok goons I done hosed up and I don't know how I did it or how to fix it. I bought a can of Armory black primer spray and tried to primer a bunch of plastic historical minis. Instead of going on smooth the figs look like they are coated in a black plastic dust that just flakes off at the slightest touch revealing the plastic beneath. The minis feel like they are coated in felt rather than primered. What did I do wrong and how do I get the bad primer job off? Don't know what went wrong exactly, but Super Clean Engine degreaser is your friend. Wear gloves when using it.
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Mar 13, 2015 02:45
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Lord Humongus posted:Could I get some critique please? Worked hard on them but I want to improve! Looks pretty good; anything you don't feel confident about? I'd say they look fine.
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Mar 13, 2015 03:01
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Unzip and Attack posted:Will Super Clean Engine de-greaser mess up the plastic underneath the primer? These models are really nice and detailed and I'd hate to see any of that melt away or get ruined. Nope Super Clean won't hurt plastic or resin. It will make super glue crumble though.
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Mar 13, 2015 09:51
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Dremcon posted:CA glue or white glue for gluing flock to bases? If white, should it be watered down? White glue. I don't thin but many do. I'm phone posting or I'd link it, but look for the terrain tutor on YouTube, he just did a review of best flocking methods.
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Mar 17, 2015 16:02
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TarDolphinorShark posted:I hope you post here. To the goon who painted those awesome 6mm vikings for Saga, can you post the images here? I have a friend who may be interested in starting up Saga in 6mm with me, I just want to show him how awesome they look even in 6mm. I'll do it this weekend. Once I finish my March and April Oaths I will be finished all my based minis and be able to play an incredibly flexible game of 6mm Saga  (I wanted to brag a little).
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Mar 20, 2015 19:20
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TarDolphinorShark posted:I hope you post here. To the goon who painted those awesome 6mm vikings for Saga, can you post the images here? I have a friend who may be interested in starting up Saga in 6mm with me, I just want to show him how awesome they look even in 6mm.       My good camera died its final death and so you get lovely tablet photos, sorry.
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Mar 22, 2015 01:41
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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:If I over primed my hams, can I dump them in a bucket of simple green and get the spray paint primer off? How should I dilute the simple green? Will I simply dissolve my hams? Simple green will remove primer, will not damage hams, you are and have always been super gay.
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Mar 22, 2015 02:08
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lilljonas posted:Pro pics anyway. What diameter do you use for bases? 1cm? Half inch? Have some better ones courtesy of the wife's camera           For the bases I used washers. The foot troops are on washers with a 3/8 inch outside diameter and the mounted troops are on washers with a 5/8 inch outside diameter. E: The bolded underlining is there because washers are typically labelled with the diameter of the hole, not the diameter of the outside edge of the washer. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 15:07
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Super Waffle posted:Does anyone have experience or a tutorial for recasting parts in clear resin? What did you want to know?
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Mar 23, 2015 02:54
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Also the white that you use should be an off white, like a linen or bone white, pure white usually looks too intense.
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Mar 23, 2015 15:29
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TarDolphinorShark posted:These a great, thanks. I already have a ton of scenery from my 6mm KoW stuff and I liked the looks of the microworld games vikings so I figured saga would be a fun game to get into. Where did you get your measuring tool made? I made it at my local fablab. Check your PMs.
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Mar 23, 2015 15:30
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Super Waffle posted:RE: Casting chat: This might help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOYotmflDzE
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Mar 29, 2015 19:11
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Sauer posted:I used to paint minis years ago and have been mostly doing scale models for the past couple years. I've had the urge recently to work on minis again especially since my tool and skill set has greatly expanded since the last time I did a minis. Looking at the prices of GW's stuff just about made me poo poo my pants though. For the price of a single "command unit" army man I could pick up an imported 1/35 scale Tamiya tank that would take weeks to work on. Is GW making their kits and minis out of polymerized cocaine? Is there a source of good quality fantasy style miniatures that I could work on that won't completely bust the bank for a few ounces of polystyrene? I'm pretty out of the loop when it comes to mini manufacturers these days. Reaper Bones are cheap but the material is weird, Reaper metals are still cheap and don't have the issues of the Bones minis. Mantic has some good stuff but I don't know how available it is or in what numbers or if they are in a wide enough variety for your needs. There are loads more as a bunch of companies have just showed up due to kickstarter but other goons will need to point those out for you.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:54
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Hollismason posted:I've had no issue with the Bones miniatures, I dunno what you mean by weird? Just seems normal to me after I prime them. It is rubbery and can be real pain in the rear end with floppy weaponry. No biggie, but that and the no spray primer thing is weird compared to hard plastic or metal minis.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:13
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Sauer posted:Is it polystyrene or something else they've developed? Bonesium. If you look at the reaper forums you can learn the dos and don'ts about working with it.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:21
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Aristocrat posted:Has anyone had any luck stripping X-Wing minis? It is unnecessary. Just prime over the factory paint job. They are notoriously difficult to strip and the results are underwhelming when it does work.
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Apr 8, 2015 14:22
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I get that he just sawed that dude, but wouldn't that saw be more for cutting into tanks rather than bisecting foot troops? It's OK, but I wouldn't have bloodied the blade personally. Otherwise it looks ace. The weathering works really well.
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Apr 12, 2015 02:01
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Unzip and Attack posted:I'm looking to create some banner poles for 28mm. What should I use? The cheaper the better. http://www.partycity.com/product/8in+bamboo+skewers+100ct.do
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Apr 21, 2015 00:16
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Unzip and Attack posted:Exactly what I'm looking for, thanks compadre. No problem. They often can also be found at most dollar stores.
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Apr 21, 2015 15:34
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thespaceinvader posted:Those are probably way too fat. Brass rod is best. 1mm is about right for a small banner, 2mm for a larger one. They are almost the exact same size as banner poles for a bunch of GW armies (maybe not elves). Paperclips are too thin and flimsy for most modeling applications. Buy a pack, if they don't work out make shish kebab. 
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Apr 21, 2015 17:49
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Dremcon posted:I found some trays at Michaels that are meant to hold markers upright but can hold Vallejo/Reaper paints if they're upside-down. Will I have any problems if I store these upside-down? link please, if possible?
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Apr 27, 2015 22:50
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signalnoise posted:How do I do 10mm scale bases, or does anyone know where I can get 10mm scale bases at 28mm scale base prices? Where are you located?
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Apr 30, 2015 18:01
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signalnoise posted:Atlanta, GA, USA No fablab for you, sorry.
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Apr 30, 2015 18:43
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signalnoise posted:Alright suggestion time. I'm going to paint up my Dropzone Commander PHR like Skynet Terminators and my Resistance like they're from the Resistance from the new Terminator movies. I'm thinking for the PHR I do chrome with dark inking in recesses and red lights, maybe using a wash made from P3 Coal Black. Any suggestions on how to make a convincing chrome paintjob? http://www.amazon.com/PlastiKote-615-Chrome-Bumper-Paint/dp/B000CPI0QO
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May 2, 2015 16:14
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signalnoise posted:Oh poo poo yes Full disclosure, I have never used it or any chrome paint so be sure to do your research before you buy.
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May 2, 2015 16:20
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Moola posted:This is a long shot, but does anyone know of any 28mm scale Hula Girl models? Or something that would be suitable for making one? Volcano Queen Breadfruit Edition Now Available This version of the Volcano Queen wears the sacred breadfruit leaf and is available only to customers who purchase a $10 tree from the Breadfruit Institute, to be planted somewhere in the world where food security and de-forestation is an issue. Please message me if you want to add her to your order. She comes both as shown or in slightly more modest garb. Both versions will be included for a $15 donation.  https://pulpfigures.com/products/view/189
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May 13, 2015 18:21
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Moola posted:Quite good! More options https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/female%20human/latest/03559 https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/female%20human/latest/14512 Sorry about the covered boobs.
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May 13, 2015 21:40
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KFJ posted:Alright, I'll try to find some Castrol Super Clean - Might not find it, though - I'm in Iceland and we don't have the best availability of stuff like that. I'll check the Castrol dealer here, see if I can't find some of it. The engine degreaser isn't a Castrol product any more just Super Clean Engine Degreaser. Walmart also has a store brand called Purple Power that seems OK. I know that may not help you, but if its biodegradable and is purple in color, you are probably fine. E: or just buy your locally available stuff and do a test run like BlackIronHeart suggested.
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May 27, 2015 03:42
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ijyt posted:Thought I'd convert up a spare old beat-up rhino I had into a looted one, it was either that or terrain. proppa, but it needs a big zoggin gun on the top.
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May 29, 2015 01:56
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JerryLee posted:1) Does anyone have any advice for getting separated VMA paints (Gold and Bright Brass, if it matters) to mix back up? When I say separated, I mean the pigment appears to have congealed into a glob in the bottle, like what you'd expect from a mostly dried out paint except there's still plenty of liquid medium in the bottle. When I poke a rod in there, it feels like chewing gum. Adding an agitator bead and shaking the poo poo out of them doesn't seem to have helped. It looks ghetto as gently caress, but it works. Or make one that uses a drill like Lumbering Troll did. (I can't find the post).
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Jun 9, 2015 19:08
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PierreTheMime posted:Thanks for the reminder. He looks so happy on his nurgle mouth maggot steed. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Jun 10, 2015 |
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Jun 10, 2015 14:57
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HardCoil posted:I was looking for that drill bit adaptor too, as it seems to be a good way to mix paint in dropper jars: Lumbering Trolls solution used an old film canister, a bolt and some tissue for padding.
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Jun 10, 2015 22:06
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LumberingTroll posted:
I wouldn't say no.
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Jun 11, 2015 03:30
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PyroDwarf posted:Whelp. Simple green it is. Would using thinner medium instead of water help? Yes. But even then don't over do it. Or just buy glazes.
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Jun 16, 2015 14:35
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berzerkmonkey posted:I like them. I was thinking of doing a Mordheim gang of Pirate Orcs myself. Porcs
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Jun 30, 2015 14:57
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I received a nice looking metal Dreadlord on Cold One from Ebay. It is primed white but the actual Cold One has what looks like one thin layer of green already painted on. I plan on doing the Cold One in red, would I be OK to just paint red over it or should I re-prime those areas? Or even just dunk and re-prime the whole thing (I'd rather not if I can avoid it). If the paint isn't lumpy you should be fine just to paint over it.
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Jul 17, 2015 21:53
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Moola posted:motherfucker!!! Not giving GW money doesn't need to extend to not giving anyone money ever. Just buy a few bases.
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Jul 20, 2015 19:48
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Moola posted:no! You are playing into Big Tape's hands with your DIY bases, you fool.
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Jul 20, 2015 20:47
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