Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

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signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

krushgroove posted:

Sure, post 'em and I'll add 'em!

Time for me to make a post about specialty paints and poo poo I guess

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 16:54

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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 08:38

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

krushgroove posted:

I'll either link to it or embed it in the OP. Do you mean the alcohol paints, or what?

The alcohol paint experiment came out not so great but there are a variety of shortcuts I've discovered, like metallic ink and industrial adhesives.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 17:51

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Here's what I have to say to anyone interested in getting some shortcuts to save time or labor while being a newbie. None of this stuff is hard to do or hard to use, but if you aren't a highly skilled painter, this can help you fool your friends into thinking you're pretty good.

1- Didi's Magic Ink, available from The War Store http://www.thewarstore.com/didismagicink.html

Didi's Magic Ink comes in 5 colors, black probably being the most useful. The reason this stuff owns is because it's not a typical ink. You could probably make your own, but I don't know how. It's a very thin, very potent, and very viscous ink. What it does is get in all the nooks and crannies of whatever you're painting, so on high detail areas you can just slather it on, dry your brush, and then use capillary action to pull excess off the mini. What you're left with is basically automatic blacklining. If you want it to look dirty, you can leave the excess and it looks like oil grime. Caveat when using this is that you'll want to SPRAY a varnish on top of it, because otherwise any additional paint you put on it will moisturize it and you'll end up removing the stuff with your upper layers. Didi's can also be used as a shade by spraying it on with an airbrush, because it dries so incredibly quickly. It comes out basically being the opposite effect of brushing it on.

2- Montana Alcohol Inks, available from Dick Blick http://www.dickblick.com/products/montana-black-marker-dye-ink-refills/

These inks are alcohol based, so you'll need some denatured alcohol or something like that to clean your brushes. The reason why this stuff is special is because it's ridiculously thin and potent, and mixable. There are a few different kinds here based on the color. Black ink is really, really strong. They actually call it Strong Black, and for good reason. The black ink is what I use to clean up base rims. It's great if you want a single coat solid black, because it will cover in one stroke completely blacking out anything underneath it. The silver is similar, except it's silver. In my opinion, it's just as good if not better than Vallejo Liquid Gold, because you can paint on top of it with acrylics and it can be sealed with regular varnish. It is highly reflective and covers in one pass, and doesn't come out grainy like most acrylic metallics. The other colors are basically like alcohol versions of Minitaire Ghost Tint. What I really love about the silver is that you can get impressive looking detail on guns with a single pass of metallic ink and a single pass of Didi's. You can also put Ghost Tint on top of it to make what looks like an automotive metallic.

3- Minitaire Ghost Tint

I know you covered this in the OP, but it should be noted that this stuff is highly potent and any use of it by a regular brush will comes out streaky because it's just so goopy. Any subtle use requires an airbrush, but like I said, on top of Montana Silver ink it looks like automotive metallic paint.

4- Citadel Dry and Technical paints

I generally dislike supporting Games Workshop, but Golden Griffon, Necron Compound, and Blood for the Blood God are ridiculously useful. The Dry line of paints is perfect. I wish I could get this stuff in darker colors, because it is to drybrushing what slicing is to bread. It takes a very easy, good thing and just makes it so much easier. Anyone who wants to learn about drybrushing should get the Dry paint of their choices and go at it. The reason it's so good is that you can work it into your brush and when you go to wipe it off, it doesn't all come off like an airbrush-ready paint would. Blood for the Blood God is exactly what it sounds like and does the job perfectly, and then you get into stuff like Typhus Corrosion and oh drat everyone who is interested in non-traditional paints just owes it to themselves to get this stuff or make something like it themselves.

5- SCIGRIP industrial adhesives, available from Amazon

I like SCIGRIP 16 in a dropper bottle. Why? Because unlike plastic glue, it bonds restic to restic. It also bonds restic to plastic, or to acrylic, or to pretty much any other plastic type material other than polyethylene, which is what your dropper bottle should be made of. Do not attempt to use SCIGRIP 16 without a dropper bottle or applicator tip.

Anyways that's my top 5 shortcuts. I thought someone might get a kick out of them.

# ¿ Mar 12, 2015 00:37

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

I like them alot and I don't mean any of this as if it were something you should be concerned about. These are really cool pieces.

I agree with this, and probably the best thing you could do to make them wow me is to simply take better photographs.

# ¿ Mar 13, 2015 04:04

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

dexefiend posted:

Does anyone have a recommendation for drybrush brushes? (Preferably ones that are available on Amazon)

I need some for terrain and figures.

I prefer flats

# ¿ Mar 17, 2015 22:56

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

I need advise on paint planning. As of monday I'm going to be flying around and staying in hotels, so I had this thing custom made. Below is an example of the types of things that can fit in each slot.

I plan to paint on the road. I have a tray underneath this that will hold miniatures, but I need some advise on picking out all the appropriate tools before I even get started. I have a pretty big collection of paints and usually I just pick whatever strikes my fancy, but now I have to pick paints before I start working, and I'm limited to this set.

So generally speaking, what are the must-haves and what are the components of a good paint job?

So far, my list is:

Brush-on primer
Pledge Future
Black ink/wash
Metallic base
3 pigments

gently caress I'm hopeless

# ¿ Apr 4, 2015 21:16

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

krushgroove posted:

Can I humbly suggest that you check the OP? there are lots of tools in the first post separated into 'essentials' and 'nice to have'. The paint section isn't fully complete but if you check out the GW video it shows the basic components of a paint job.

I love that you are bringing all that stuff though! I'm working away this weekend and almost brought a baneblade and Knight to build.

Let's assume that all the miniatures I'm bringing are pre-assembled and I have brushes, a mold line remover, and liquid greenstuff in the kit already. I'm more interested in what to plan for when you have like a half-baked idea of a paint scheme. Most of the stuff in the OP is for constructing and paint tools. I'll be bringing a wide variety of brushes and tools already, this is more of a colors question. Might be a gap to fill in the OP! "Planning your paint scheme"

I'll look over the OP a couple more times though

# ¿ Apr 4, 2015 21:53

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Anyone got a lead on where I can buy a vallejo game air suitcase? Like, actually buy instead of preorder for an unannounced date?

# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 02:26

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

BULBASAUR posted:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=vallejo+game+air+paint&_sop=16

Pretty sure at those prices they're getting the cases, filling them from a retailer, and reselling.

gently caress it though, bought the case by itself and I'll fill it BESPOKE

# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 06:34

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

Listen, man. You buy GW products. Is throwing money away on cereal you're not going to eat really that big a deal?

Think of it as basing material. Get one of the fibery ones. I'm pretty sure they're not biodegradable.

But don't get a sugary brand. Because: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU0GYSA1POs

I hear Grape Nuts makes amazing rubble and ballast

# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 21:23

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Straight paintin' bases from the hotel room suckas

# ¿ Apr 9, 2015 02:44

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Slimnoid posted:

Ha, I know some of those bases.

...and I'm struggling to remember when I sold those to you.

Months ago, I bought everything you had!

# ¿ Apr 9, 2015 04:03

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

LordAba posted:

What up hotel room painter bro. Totally hope I don't get the police called on me when I spray prime in the back of the building.

What is your paint/supplies and mini-in-progress transportation and prep solution?

# ¿ Apr 10, 2015 00:54

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Unzip and Attack posted:

Any recommendations for a spray matte coating that will protect minis from table use? Preferably something I can get online.

What you'll want to do is use a gloss coat first, like Testors Glosscote or Future floor polish, and then spray a layer of matte or satin on top. My understanding is that the matte vs satin vs gloss is just how light reflects off the model, and only the top layer really matters. With that in mind you use a gloss to provide some hardness to the top coat and then do matte for the visual effect.

# ¿ Apr 12, 2015 17:45

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Also as far as getting stuff online-

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/

http://www.thewarstore.com/product33266.html

# ¿ Apr 12, 2015 20:32

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Anyone try out the Vallejo Game Air colored primers yet? Are they worth it?

# ¿ Apr 12, 2015 20:36

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Question to painters better than myself

What kind of paints do you guys use? I have experimented with Reaper, Reaper HD, Citadel dry and technical, P3, Minitaire, and Vallejo Game Air. I haven't found one I really really like other than VGA but I now have over 200 paints and I can never seem to find one set of tools I really can stick with. It's an ever-expanding collection where I use whatever is newest. I don't like this. Do you guys have just massive paint collections or do you have a set you can stick with?

# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 16:36

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

An Angry Bug posted:

Quick question about Pledge and matte sprays. If I use a matte spray on a miniature, can I use some floor polish and a brush to make specific parts of the miniature glossy while leaving the rest matte?

Yes

# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 16:54

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

OK so what are the preferred best use paints? Maybe some paint picking suggestions could go in the OP by purpose?

# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 18:04

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Skarsnik posted:

If you have over 200 paints already I'd say recommendations for more is the last thing you need. This is a hobby that quite often encourages more spending to improve where its really not needed. Practice more instead of spending more

That's fair, I'm just growing more and more irritated with Minitaire which is the bulk of my collection. Some of it's great, and some are absolutely godawful.

# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 18:24

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

You may get significant use out of this if you plan to do this a lot

http://zinge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=130&product_id=467

# ¿ Apr 19, 2015 02:45

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

A toothbrush brushed across epoxy putty does a decent job too in my opinion

# ¿ Apr 19, 2015 05:32

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Not PAINTING exactly but I got the new KRQ case from KR Multicase. It's rad as gently caress and holds about 50 28mm figures.

They're pretty cheap too!

# ¿ Apr 25, 2015 02:50

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Paint question

https://signalnoisenet-my.sharepoin...36a2888d275dd1e

I am making a 72 paint travel set of everything I might ever want for non-airbrushing purposes (meaning no multiple varnishes because I'll do that at home).

This is my set so far. I have 11 more slots that I can fill. What can I put on this list to make it better that fits in a bottle? Specific brand and paint name suggestions are welcome and I'll try anything, I'm just getting away from Minitaire at the moment.

signalnoise fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Apr 25, 2015

# ¿ Apr 25, 2015 17:07

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Hamlet442 posted:

Got a link for it? I'm starting to build my mini collection and they're just sitting on a shelf.

https://www.krmulticase.com

Very reasonable prices and a solid product with an extremely elegant tray system.

# ¿ Apr 25, 2015 22:09

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

*breaks his paintbrush*

# ¿ Apr 26, 2015 13:42

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

I am in the middle of the same thing. I took the opportunity to make a 72-paint comprehensive set of my current painting style that I put in a Vallejo paint case. I'm stopping myself from looking at my other paints and trying to see if I can work from a smaller collection and have a more definitive look. Also, it's good for travel.

My miniatures on the other hand, perhaps those will never be organized...

# ¿ Apr 28, 2015 05:35

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

How do I do 10mm scale bases, or does anyone know where I can get 10mm scale bases at 28mm scale base prices?

# ¿ Apr 30, 2015 17:56

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Indolent Bastard posted:

Where are you located?

Atlanta, GA, USA

# ¿ Apr 30, 2015 18:02

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

nesbit37 posted:

What kind of 10mm bases?

Resin molded, like Secret Weapon or Micro-Art. I hate making bases but I'm ok painting resin.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2015 18:55

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Eesh, 45 euros for that. I'll figure out something. In other news Coal Black is a super cool color! Glad I asked for suggestions!

# ¿ May 1, 2015 01:17

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Alright suggestion time. I'm going to paint up my Dropzone Commander PHR like Skynet Terminators and my Resistance like they're from the Resistance from the new Terminator movies. I'm thinking for the PHR I do chrome with dark inking in recesses and red lights, maybe using a wash made from P3 Coal Black. Any suggestions on how to make a convincing chrome paintjob?

# ¿ May 2, 2015 16:03

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Oh poo poo yes

# ¿ May 2, 2015 16:17

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Indolent Bastard posted:

Full disclosure, I have never used it or any chrome paint so be sure to do your research before you buy.

Eh it's 8 bucks and I have spare sprue

# ¿ May 2, 2015 16:20

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Hollismason posted:

Actually I've done some research and some experimenting with chrome and getting a chrome finish. The easiest substance I found was this:

Just use this stuff if what you're using it on is tiny.

http://www.c1-models.com/c1-metalizer/

It's inexpensive and that kit will last for like ever he reallly sends you a shitload. I still haven't run out of it.

Practice with it first though and wear a respirator.

It just requires a super high gloss, like the glossiest glossy you can buy then polish it some for a smooth surface , then apply then buff , done.

Sounds like I'm not going to be doing this, and just using metallics and inks instead!

# ¿ May 3, 2015 14:26

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

I just pay an extra 70 cents per model for resin bases :retrogames:

# ¿ May 3, 2015 19:52

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Too simple?

# ¿ May 5, 2015 01:11

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

berzerkmonkey posted:

Get some highlighting/glassy effect on the red and it will look really good. Why does it look like the paint is peeling off the top of the rear cockpit area?

Probably for the same reason there's a thumbprint on the bottom of it. My plan is to scrape that part off, varnish, and repaint it, since none of it's highlighted yet.

# ¿ May 5, 2015 01:48

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

!amicable posted:

It's all good. I think I can use some cheap photo frame glass and some etching solution to get myself a sheet.

In other news, Deathjackin':

click for more!

This is everything I want to be able to paint like

# ¿ May 7, 2015 15:32

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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 08:38

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

berzerkmonkey posted:

Ah ha! Thanks!

As a side note, for a planet covered in pollution and ash storms, an awful lot of my Steel Legion models are not wearing their goggles...

Has anyone used the Games and Gears silicone brush yet? I'm curious as to how well it works (or doesn't).

I cannot for the life of me get it to work like the dude in their promo video makes it work.

# ¿ May 7, 2015 18:12

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