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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Crosspost from the oath thread. Still working the skin, and trying out true metallic metals. It's eluding me right now, too much reflection for me to really wrap my head around it.

Electric Hobo posted:

Oath complete!






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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Phi230 posted:

Anybody know good brushes/how to maintain brushes.


I'm losing my mind because my fine brushes are losing their tips/becoming bushy and that is insanity at 15mm painting
What Cat Face Joe said, but there's a good section on brushes in the op as well.

Thanks!

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

MrFlibble posted:

Firstly - I was planning on ordering some Vallejo Matt and Gloss varnish since I don't trust spray cans. I assume I just brush it on straight out of the bottle, right? Does it need to be shaken like the paints do?

Secondly - any suggestions on the base? I'm painting to a tabletop standard (or as close as I can get) so i'm not looking to go very detailed. I was looking into galeforce 9 static grass or maybe the summer grass flock. Ideally i'd like to base all of my blood bowl teams so they look like the human team here but i'm not sure how to do that.

Thanks.
Shake the varnish, then thin it a bit with water. You want a thin layer even if it's basically a clear paint, and the water will help it go on smoothly and evenly.

For the bases, I'd glue sand on the bases, paint it brown and then highlight it a few times. Then you just cover as much of it as you like in PVA glue and add static grass. Finally, pin the figures to the bases.
If you're planning to cover the bases completely with grass, you can just paint the base brown, then add grass to skip a few steps.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Southern Heel posted:

How do I fasten my miniatures to a regiment-base (i.e. kings of war style: a big 10cm x 8cm sheet with 15-20 miniatures attached) ? I ask because in the past I used superglue on the feet of my dudes and they popped off like crazy. I'd rather not pin every single one - is there a middle ground?
Green stuff or 5 minute 2 component epoxy glue. Cut the feet and where you want to place the figures for maximum grip.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
A local store finally got some Tamiya paints in, so I bought a set of translucents and some thinner. Anything I should know before I destroy my models/brushes/brain using them?

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Southern Heel posted:

I've picked up this dwarf golem, I want to paint it more or less like the below studio model: moss and grass in the crevices, glowing eyes


but I want to have it with stylised paint that has come off over time, like so:


I figure the easiest way to do this will be to undercoat in my stone colour, then glaze a few times with pale versions of those colours, and finally stipple with foam my original foam colour on top - and then shade, wash and add moss/etc. like how the mud is overlaid onto the painted track, it would be stone 'under' the painted statue:



Does that work or make sense?

This looks like a prime candidate for Bulbasaur's weathering tutorial http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&pagenumber=1103&perpage=40#post428029688
Basically you paint it as a stone statue, cover it in chipping medium and paint it in whatever colors you want. Then you beat the poo poo out of the outer paint layer.
Probably not the easiest way, but I imagine it could give a very good result.

Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 21, 2016

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Cross post from the oath thread. I'm really getting to work on my metals with this game, and I tried out some trompe l'œil for the floor. Not a complete success, but it looks alright on the table.

Electric Hobo posted:

Oath complete!








Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
A question for goons who make molds and casts stuff.
How would I go about making a mold for something like this? I've read Z the IV's post on casting but I'm still fuzzy on the details. I'd like it to work in as few attempts as possible so any advice is appreciated.
The figure is not quite done yet, but the basic shape is there except for the base which will just be a flat disc.




Stuff I have or am getting soon:
2 part 1:1 resin.
RTV Silicone.
Lots of talcum.
Legos.
Clay.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

berzerkmonkey posted:

Is the thingy going to be on that white disc?

No, that's just to have a flat surface while I'm sculpting it so things get more symmetrical. I'll attach the thingy to a much smaller disc before trying to make a mold.
Also, it's a 3D token for the ram clan in Blood Rage.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

BULBASAUR posted:

Easy. Get a plastic cup a bit larger than your bit. Next, put some clay on the other side of this (the side with that little dent in the 3rd picture):



Next, stick your bit into the cup with the clay side glued/secured to the bottom of the cup. Your bit will basically be floating at this point. Coat your bit with talcum, mix some silicone, and slowly pour it in from one side. Stick it on a vibrating washer/drier and let it set. When its dry take out the silicone from the cup (you can cut the cup if you need) and remove the clay. You should be able to wiggle out the bit through the hole. If not, use an xacto knife to cut a little line into the top of the mold to make it release easier. Once it's out you have your mold.

This is called a 'sleeve' mold btw. Pretty easy and works for 90% of bits.
This sounds super easy if I'm understanding it correctly. I basically place it on the clay so I get a hole in the silicone where the bit is flat anyway, right?
I forgot to mention that I'll be adding a small round base to it, but I figure it'll still work if I make a small vent and carefully cut the silicone along the back of the bit.
Either way, this is just the advice I was looking for! Much simpler than mucking about with a 2 part mold.
Thanks.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Z the IVth posted:

If you're going to add a base to it make it a simple one part open mould. Stick base to a bit of glass or plastic then build a box around it (legos, foamcore, plastic). If the base will fit neatly into the cup then you can use the cup itself as the enclosure.

You'll have experiment a little as a one part mould *may* not work the best for your thing. Off the top of my head I can see a number of places which are likely to be bubble traps. If you did a 2 part, you can cut vents there to release the bubbles, but then you will have mould lines to deal with.

How many of these are you planning to make? If you're only doing a few a one part mould and then just cleaning up the bubbles manually would probable be less effort and quicker. If you're planning to make a lot then I would go for the 2 part mould simply because mould lines are easier to scrape off compared to bubbles which you have to fill and resculpt.

Post your piece when finished and I can give you a best guess as what's most likely to work.
I definitely think bubbles will get caught on the underside of the horns, but I only need to make 4 so it won't be too bad to fix it. I'll finish the sculpt and post it again.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Dimo ArKacho posted:

So I'm trying to make an ink wash to match this video, but it's in german and I don't know what the gently caress. When it says Ink + White Spirits, is that basically Future, or do I need to buy more stupid art supplies that I'll use once a year?

Video is linked to the proper time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo3M1U0Nwl0&t=166s

Edit: Also, is airbrush advice now basically the same as in the OP? Painting this tank made me want to kill myself, and now I want an airbrush.

White spirits is mineral turpentine. I assume he's using an oil based ink, so it's basically an oil wash. It's good stuff for things like tanks and such.
I bought a set of cheap oil colors in tubes and a bottle of turpentine, so now I'm pretty much set for life.

Edit:
Efb.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Z the IVth posted:

A new battlesuit I've been working this past 2 months. About 60-70% complete? The guns are placeholders scavenged from another build. The two boxes on the 'shoulders' are going to be two larger arms coming down the back.

Tried something new and sculpted the whole thing out of polymer clay (Fimo Professional) rather than two part epoxy. It's quite fun!




P.S If there are any Freudian slips in the sculpt please let me know.

As someone who trying to figure out how to model stuff, this is pretty cool.
Did you make the different parts of it individually and then glue them together?

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Oath thread cross post:

Electric Hobo posted:

Oath complete!





Looks like my varnish hosed up a bit for some reason. Probably the 30 degrees celsius + insane humidity where I live right now.

Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 11:16 on Aug 25, 2016

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Z the IVth posted:

Where are these fine miniatures from?

They are from Blood Rage by Cool Mini or Not. The fire giant is from the base game, the others are from the Gods of Asgard expansion. None of these were kickstarter exclusives.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

berzerkmonkey posted:

It might just be the angle, but the gold on the Fire Giant's mask looks so smooooth. Good job on all of them. I'm cleaning mine up to paint as well - did you run into any difficulty with yours? Some people were posting that paint wasn't adhering to the plastic or drying properly (most likely user error.)

Also, I'm assuming you had a bunch of bent spearstaffs and such - did you use boiling water to straighten them, or did you not bother?

Thanks :) I bought Scale 75's gold set in anticipation of painting this guy, and it's really good. It's very shiny even through gloss + matte varnish, which does help the look a lot. Except when your varnish bugs out and kills the lustre completely, like on Frigga's shield, where I can really see where I said "good enough" when it was shiny.

I did the usual wash and rinse, then primed with vallejo surface primer through an airbrush, and I didn't have any problems. I'd actually say that it's been remarkably easy all around, considering all the different colors they've mixed into the plastic.
I did boil some of them, mostly to get the bases flat on the big monsters and the spears straight. The bases hold up fine but the spears are so thin that they flipped back to pool noodles when it hit 25o C.
Odin was especially bad so I replaced the spear haft with a brass rod and redid the fitting for the spearhead (I have a photo of him somewhere in this thread). I'll afraid I'll probably have to do the same with some of the Raven and Wolf clan guys.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Yeah, it's just a slightly soft plastic. Much harder than Fantasy Flight's plastic, but still soft enough that thin parts will warp around.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Tell your dad he's awesome.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Rurea posted:

Thanks for the compliments guys I'll pass them on. He has literally boxes full of gold medals and other awards from model shows, so I don't know if I could convince him to go after a crystal brush.
Here's his blog where he posts most of his work, just dont e-stalk me please: http://custmini.blogspot.com/

Holy poo poo! How many years has he been painting? I'll feel better if you say 35.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Rurea posted:

His 60th birthday is next month and he has been painting and building scale models since he was a kid.
Speaking of, I'll probably buy him another warham to paint up for his birthday, any suggestions?

Oh that's great, I still have 29 years to hit that skill level.
I'm not a ham guy, so I suggest one of Scale 75's fancy figures.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Those are super gross and cool looking.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Probably stupid questions, but I'm more of a paint nerd than anything. Does the same thing happen if you brush your paint on? Have your paint been stored at weird temperatures? Have you shaken them up really, really well if they've been standing around for a long time? Have you tried with a brand new paint?

It mostly sounds like a paint problem to me. For some reason they don't make the waterresistant surface that acrylics should when fully cured. I'd usually write that up to bad surface preparation, which can absorb some of the chemicals needed for proper curing, but it sounds like you have that part down.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
There's a lot of cool stuff on this last page.
Here's my usual crosspost from the oath thread, which may or may not lower the coolness, I can't say myself.

Electric Hobo posted:

Oath complete!







Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Oct 1, 2016

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
That's a cool looking murloc. I like the muted colors.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

JackMann posted:

Those who've used Scale75, any recommended sets? I ask because they have a rep at the con I'm currently at, and I'm thinking of grabbing a couple.

Their metals are great and I love the skin and Inktensity sets. I'm by no means a great painter, but the sets have improved my work quite a bit.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
This month's crosspost from the oath thread.

Electric Hobo posted:

Oath complete!




I think I need to add some flowers to the vikings' bases to make them look more separate from the models, and I really need to find a better first player token for Blood Rage. That hand with the axe is a crap sculpt and no where near as metal as the rest of the game.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

SRM posted:

Honestly, if you just paint the base rim brown or black you'll be good. The viking dude looks dope though.

Thanks!
That's what I usually do, but here I need the colored rim for quick owner identification from all angles. There's a lot of similar looking figures in a 4 or 5 player game, and a bunch of people I play with can't reliably tell them from each other without a solid color. Not all the models have a plume on their head so you can't see their color from a lot of angles.
I tried to put flowers in the player colors on some models, but it still didn't work, so this is the best solution that I could come up with.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Irate Tree posted:

Has anyone ever ordered from Arcane Miniatures before? Also, does anyone know if Enigma Miniatures are still making poo poo?
I put an order in (I hope) with Arcane a few days ago and haven't received any email from them. I sent a follow up email yesterday and still, nothing. =(

I bought a couple of Scale 75 paint sets from there. There was no communication and it was insanely slow, but I got it eventually.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Fidel Castronaut posted:

I am a miniature painting beginner. Friend who does warhammer type stuff (not warhammer but mechs? dunno what it's called) gave me a few lessons and I'm into it, though not a mech guy. I have Mansions of Madness and Imperial Assault with some expansions. My paints are coming via mail in probably a week. Would it be okay to prime all my figures in the meantime? Is there anything bad about leaving them primed but not painted for weeks? (Even when I get the paints I'm not going to finish painting all of them for quite some time.) I'm just wondering if dust would accumulate and mess up the painting. Sorry if this is a dumb beginner question!
Prime away. I usually prime a bunch of models in the summer so I have enough to last me through winter.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Four more vikings and a wraith from the oath thread. I still have to live with the green rims, but I think the flowers helps separate the base from model.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Ayn Marx posted:

I keep getting small specks of something in my paint after thinning it on my palette - thought it may be dust but the room/workspace are clean. What is this and how do I avoid it?
Looks like you're using a wet palette. What do you use to mix your paint when you thin it? A brush or something else? I had the same thing happen when I was using a paper with too short fibers and mixing with the wooden end of a brush.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Class Warcraft posted:

Does anyone know any tricks for straightening out long thin metal bits like spears and gun barrels that have become wavy due to slight bends in multiple places?
With spears and such I usually squeeze the bend with flat pliers a bunch of times.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Oath thread cross post:

Electric Hobo posted:

Oath complete!










I went for a mandrill look on the monkey instead of a boring old baboon. The woman with the cape was left half finished for years and years because of annoying primer, but I finally finished her. It was one of my first paintjobs, so it nice to see that I've improved.
Also, I finally admitted that I needed some deeper shadows on the fur capes, so I went back and added it to all my Blood Rage figures.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

SRM posted:

Lots of cool stuff.
These guys are all fuckin' awesome. I especially like that super dramatic inquisitor.

Fyrbrand posted:

Burning troll.
And this guy is great! That is some good fire.

Dr. Gargunza posted:

...dear crikey, that marble.... :swoon:
Well thanks, but it's just thick paint swirled around and into eachother, then a drybrush :shobon:

Dr. Phildo posted:

I really like that drummer dude. The furs are real nice and the guys posture and eyes reminds me of mike mignola comics. Digging the variety of bone on him too
Thanks! It's actually two drummers dudes. I actually try to make the eyes Hellboy-ish, both because it's easier and because I like the demented look it brings.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
That looks amazing! There are a lot of crazy details on that thing.
How did you do the metal plates on his back?

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Horace-Noah posted:

Really need a better sand recipe. I want a more warm yellowish tone to it. Any constructive criticism would be very appreciated!
Just drybrush it with a yellow-ish brown, then with slightly brown-ish yellow.
I would suggest using some finer sand, what you're using looks like loose rocks. Find a playground near you for an infinite source.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Zenithal painting with an airbrush would probably work pretty well.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Phi230 posted:

Also, how do I make streaks and splashes? I have vallejo weather and engine effects but how do I streak them or splash them to make them look proper?
I haven't used them, but Vallejo has a set of guides for using their weathering effect. They're all here http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/weathering-effects/family/34 as step by step guides.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Oath thread crosspost.
Yellow and tartan is loving killing me.

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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Lethemonster posted:

I need model recommendations.

I have a poo poo load of Dark Souls minis turning up and I want some models to practice painting armour on. Armour as in knight armour and ye olde platey mail. I have lots of models with cloth and so on, but surprisingly none with traditional armour.

Where can I pick up some boxes of angry men in platemail, chainmail, all sorts of male in mail. Kinda like the old Bretonnian models if they had less cloth going on.

Perry Miniatures has mounted men at arms, foot knights and agincourt foot knights with lots of plate and chain mail. Something like 35 foot guys or 12 horse guys for £20.

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