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Crosspost from the oath thread. Still working the skin, and trying out true metallic metals. It's eluding me right now, too much reflection for me to really wrap my head around it.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2016 13:18 |
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# ¿ May 9, 2024 12:51 |
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Phi230 posted:Anybody know good brushes/how to maintain brushes. Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Lovin' these.
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# ¿ Jul 1, 2016 20:18 |
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MrFlibble posted:Firstly - I was planning on ordering some Vallejo Matt and Gloss varnish since I don't trust spray cans. I assume I just brush it on straight out of the bottle, right? Does it need to be shaken like the paints do? For the bases, I'd glue sand on the bases, paint it brown and then highlight it a few times. Then you just cover as much of it as you like in PVA glue and add static grass. Finally, pin the figures to the bases. If you're planning to cover the bases completely with grass, you can just paint the base brown, then add grass to skip a few steps.
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 23:06 |
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Southern Heel posted:How do I fasten my miniatures to a regiment-base (i.e. kings of war style: a big 10cm x 8cm sheet with 15-20 miniatures attached) ? I ask because in the past I used superglue on the feet of my dudes and they popped off like crazy. I'd rather not pin every single one - is there a middle ground?
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 18:31 |
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A local store finally got some Tamiya paints in, so I bought a set of translucents and some thinner. Anything I should know before I destroy my models/brushes/brain using them?
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2016 15:27 |
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Southern Heel posted:I've picked up this dwarf golem, I want to paint it more or less like the below studio model: moss and grass in the crevices, glowing eyes This looks like a prime candidate for Bulbasaur's weathering tutorial http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&pagenumber=1103&perpage=40#post428029688 Basically you paint it as a stone statue, cover it in chipping medium and paint it in whatever colors you want. Then you beat the poo poo out of the outer paint layer. Probably not the easiest way, but I imagine it could give a very good result. Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 21, 2016 |
# ¿ Jul 21, 2016 21:22 |
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Cross post from the oath thread. I'm really getting to work on my metals with this game, and I tried out some trompe l'œil for the floor. Not a complete success, but it looks alright on the table.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2016 18:08 |
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A question for goons who make molds and casts stuff. How would I go about making a mold for something like this? I've read Z the IV's post on casting but I'm still fuzzy on the details. I'd like it to work in as few attempts as possible so any advice is appreciated. The figure is not quite done yet, but the basic shape is there except for the base which will just be a flat disc. Stuff I have or am getting soon: 2 part 1:1 resin. RTV Silicone. Lots of talcum. Legos. Clay.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2016 10:31 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:Is the thingy going to be on that white disc? No, that's just to have a flat surface while I'm sculpting it so things get more symmetrical. I'll attach the thingy to a much smaller disc before trying to make a mold. Also, it's a 3D token for the ram clan in Blood Rage.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2016 15:16 |
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BULBASAUR posted:Easy. Get a plastic cup a bit larger than your bit. Next, put some clay on the other side of this (the side with that little dent in the 3rd picture): I forgot to mention that I'll be adding a small round base to it, but I figure it'll still work if I make a small vent and carefully cut the silicone along the back of the bit. Either way, this is just the advice I was looking for! Much simpler than mucking about with a 2 part mold. Thanks.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2016 15:44 |
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Z the IVth posted:If you're going to add a base to it make it a simple one part open mould. Stick base to a bit of glass or plastic then build a box around it (legos, foamcore, plastic). If the base will fit neatly into the cup then you can use the cup itself as the enclosure.
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# ¿ Aug 14, 2016 10:19 |
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Dimo ArKacho posted:So I'm trying to make an ink wash to match this video, but it's in german and I don't know what the gently caress. When it says Ink + White Spirits, is that basically Future, or do I need to buy more stupid art supplies that I'll use once a year? White spirits is mineral turpentine. I assume he's using an oil based ink, so it's basically an oil wash. It's good stuff for things like tanks and such. I bought a set of cheap oil colors in tubes and a bottle of turpentine, so now I'm pretty much set for life. Edit: Efb.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2016 21:25 |
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Z the IVth posted:A new battlesuit I've been working this past 2 months. About 60-70% complete? The guns are placeholders scavenged from another build. The two boxes on the 'shoulders' are going to be two larger arms coming down the back. As someone who trying to figure out how to model stuff, this is pretty cool. Did you make the different parts of it individually and then glue them together?
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# ¿ Aug 21, 2016 16:21 |
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Oath thread cross post:Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete! Looks like my varnish hosed up a bit for some reason. Probably the 30 degrees celsius + insane humidity where I live right now. Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 11:16 on Aug 25, 2016 |
# ¿ Aug 25, 2016 10:33 |
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Z the IVth posted:Where are these fine miniatures from? They are from Blood Rage by Cool Mini or Not. The fire giant is from the base game, the others are from the Gods of Asgard expansion. None of these were kickstarter exclusives.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2016 11:55 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:It might just be the angle, but the gold on the Fire Giant's mask looks so smooooth. Good job on all of them. I'm cleaning mine up to paint as well - did you run into any difficulty with yours? Some people were posting that paint wasn't adhering to the plastic or drying properly (most likely user error.) Thanks I bought Scale 75's gold set in anticipation of painting this guy, and it's really good. It's very shiny even through gloss + matte varnish, which does help the look a lot. Except when your varnish bugs out and kills the lustre completely, like on Frigga's shield, where I can really see where I said "good enough" when it was shiny. I did the usual wash and rinse, then primed with vallejo surface primer through an airbrush, and I didn't have any problems. I'd actually say that it's been remarkably easy all around, considering all the different colors they've mixed into the plastic. I did boil some of them, mostly to get the bases flat on the big monsters and the spears straight. The bases hold up fine but the spears are so thin that they flipped back to pool noodles when it hit 25o C. Odin was especially bad so I replaced the spear haft with a brass rod and redid the fitting for the spearhead (I have a photo of him somewhere in this thread). I'll afraid I'll probably have to do the same with some of the Raven and Wolf clan guys.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2016 17:44 |
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Yeah, it's just a slightly soft plastic. Much harder than Fantasy Flight's plastic, but still soft enough that thin parts will warp around.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2016 18:26 |
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Tell your dad he's awesome.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2016 15:36 |
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Rurea posted:Thanks for the compliments guys I'll pass them on. He has literally boxes full of gold medals and other awards from model shows, so I don't know if I could convince him to go after a crystal brush. Holy poo poo! How many years has he been painting? I'll feel better if you say 35.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2016 20:06 |
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Rurea posted:His 60th birthday is next month and he has been painting and building scale models since he was a kid. Oh that's great, I still have 29 years to hit that skill level. I'm not a ham guy, so I suggest one of Scale 75's fancy figures.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2016 20:32 |
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Those are super gross and cool looking.
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# ¿ Sep 1, 2016 22:34 |
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Probably stupid questions, but I'm more of a paint nerd than anything. Does the same thing happen if you brush your paint on? Have your paint been stored at weird temperatures? Have you shaken them up really, really well if they've been standing around for a long time? Have you tried with a brand new paint? It mostly sounds like a paint problem to me. For some reason they don't make the waterresistant surface that acrylics should when fully cured. I'd usually write that up to bad surface preparation, which can absorb some of the chemicals needed for proper curing, but it sounds like you have that part down.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2016 22:42 |
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There's a lot of cool stuff on Here's my usual crosspost from the oath thread, which may or may not lower the coolness, I can't say myself. Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete! Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Oct 1, 2016 |
# ¿ Sep 30, 2016 10:47 |
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That's a cool looking murloc. I like the muted colors.
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# ¿ Oct 5, 2016 18:32 |
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JackMann posted:Those who've used Scale75, any recommended sets? I ask because they have a rep at the con I'm currently at, and I'm thinking of grabbing a couple. Their metals are great and I love the skin and Inktensity sets. I'm by no means a great painter, but the sets have improved my work quite a bit.
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2016 09:29 |
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This month's crosspost from the oath thread.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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# ¿ Oct 26, 2016 17:03 |
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SRM posted:Honestly, if you just paint the base rim brown or black you'll be good. The viking dude looks dope though. Thanks! That's what I usually do, but here I need the colored rim for quick owner identification from all angles. There's a lot of similar looking figures in a 4 or 5 player game, and a bunch of people I play with can't reliably tell them from each other without a solid color. Not all the models have a plume on their head so you can't see their color from a lot of angles. I tried to put flowers in the player colors on some models, but it still didn't work, so this is the best solution that I could come up with.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2016 13:17 |
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Irate Tree posted:Has anyone ever ordered from Arcane Miniatures before? Also, does anyone know if Enigma Miniatures are still making poo poo? I bought a couple of Scale 75 paint sets from there. There was no communication and it was insanely slow, but I got it eventually.
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# ¿ Nov 30, 2016 14:49 |
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Fidel Castronaut posted:I am a miniature painting beginner. Friend who does warhammer type stuff (not warhammer but mechs? dunno what it's called) gave me a few lessons and I'm into it, though not a mech guy. I have Mansions of Madness and Imperial Assault with some expansions. My paints are coming via mail in probably a week. Would it be okay to prime all my figures in the meantime? Is there anything bad about leaving them primed but not painted for weeks? (Even when I get the paints I'm not going to finish painting all of them for quite some time.) I'm just wondering if dust would accumulate and mess up the painting. Sorry if this is a dumb beginner question!
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2016 14:22 |
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Four more vikings and a wraith from the oath thread. I still have to live with the green rims, but I think the flowers helps separate the base from model.
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2016 12:34 |
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Ayn Marx posted:I keep getting small specks of something in my paint after thinning it on my palette - thought it may be dust but the room/workspace are clean. What is this and how do I avoid it?
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2017 15:51 |
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Class Warcraft posted:Does anyone know any tricks for straightening out long thin metal bits like spears and gun barrels that have become wavy due to slight bends in multiple places?
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2017 09:19 |
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Oath thread cross post:Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete! Also, I finally admitted that I needed some deeper shadows on the fur capes, so I went back and added it to all my Blood Rage figures.
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2017 15:04 |
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SRM posted:Lots of cool stuff. Fyrbrand posted:Burning troll. Dr. Gargunza posted:...dear crikey, that marble.... Dr. Phildo posted:I really like that drummer dude. The furs are real nice and the guys posture and eyes reminds me of mike mignola comics. Digging the variety of bone on him too
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2017 17:23 |
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That looks amazing! There are a lot of crazy details on that thing. How did you do the metal plates on his back?
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2017 21:13 |
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Horace-Noah posted:Really need a better sand recipe. I want a more warm yellowish tone to it. Any constructive criticism would be very appreciated! I would suggest using some finer sand, what you're using looks like loose rocks. Find a playground near you for an infinite source.
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# ¿ Jan 30, 2017 13:57 |
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Zenithal painting with an airbrush would probably work pretty well.
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2017 22:12 |
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Phi230 posted:Also, how do I make streaks and splashes? I have vallejo weather and engine effects but how do I streak them or splash them to make them look proper?
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2017 18:51 |
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Oath thread crosspost. Yellow and tartan is loving killing me.
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2017 11:46 |
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# ¿ May 9, 2024 12:51 |
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Lethemonster posted:I need model recommendations. Perry Miniatures has mounted men at arms, foot knights and agincourt foot knights with lots of plate and chain mail. Something like 35 foot guys or 12 horse guys for £20.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2017 17:34 |