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Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


UK Goons, for primers, which ones do you recommend from Halfords? My current can of Modelmates is running low and I wouldn't mind trying a new one.

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Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Yeah I use black primer for some projects, grey for others. Looks like this is the one:
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/car-spray-paints/halfords-matt-black-paint-500ml

Cheers dudes.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Anyone in the thread have much experience with the Scale 75 Soil Works sets, are they any good? I've been liking their paints a lot so far but do not have much experience with any of their weathering stuff. I mostly use modelmates stuff but I don't actually own any weathering powders.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Hi thread, I used some Tamiya weathering sets in some models and after Matt varnishing them they seem to have blended straight into the models. Am i meant to use a fixer instead of these?

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Skarsnik posted:

How did you apply it? Also how did you apply the weathering powder?


Chill la Chill posted:

I don't recall ever having problems applying a brush-on varnish to them first and then using a spray afterwards to the desired finish.


Mango Polo posted:

Pigment powders always get toned down when you varnish, and on top of that if you are not very careful you'll blow off a bunch of it just from the spraying action itself.


Signal posted:

I'm going to guess you used a brush to apply the powder, and then spray varnished. The problem there is that the varnish will often knock the powders right off with the power from the spray can. It's also worth noting that most weathering powders are more matte than your spray. Try matte varnishing the model first, then applying the powders. I think some people use a light bit of alcohol to fix the powders afterwards.
Brush on weathering using the little applicators in the pack (they're like make up swabs). Then spray on testors dull coat. Looks it like it just blew most of it off the model as well as toning it down! I'll probably look to reapply it up tomorrow morning and apply a fixer over it.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Mango Polo posted:

One thing you can do is first apply the fixer to the model, and then while it's still wet tap on the pigment. It doesn't hold as strongly as pigment first -> fixer second, but it's good enough to protect the pigment from varnish sprays.
Cheers dude, I feel a bit stupid for asking this, but what's the best way to apply fixer to a pigment already on the model? do I just sort of dab it on? what stops it from coming off then? I've got some stuff back on my models but it's more how to keep it on there now. I'll watch some youtube vids on the morning and a friend did mention to me tonight it might be worth putting them in those little spray bottles to spray it on but it won't have the force to blow it all off.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Thanks for replies all. Will give it a go! I'm thinking of picking up the soil works terrain series from Scale75 tomorrow and that has a fixer in it, I don't own many pigment sets. Alternative is Vallejo Fixer and MDP Pro-Pigments which I can also get but not at a discount. Anyone here have much experience with these? Thanks for feedback so far all.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Odd question, but I'm painting some space ships for Dropfleet Commander and I normally like to weather the poo poo out of my vehicles and make em dirty. How would I weather a spaceship? it isn't going to get dirty in space, or at least not much right? Anyone got any good game/mini examples for me to reference off? I've been looking at Homeworld art and stuff for some inspiration too.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


OK this I should have thought of, cheers dude, this is good reference.

SteelMentor posted:

Heat-staining around the engines? Maybe some grit/battle damage from smacking into asteroids?
Yeah I felt a bit dumb because I normally do scorch/burns on engines or laser barrels and blacked out muzzles on guns but started to question whether you'd get that on a spaceship.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


That Viper is quite tasty, I'll have a play when I get home for some ideas and inspiration. Though my scheme is a fairly dark grey already, so I'm curious how it's going to come out.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


What do goons use for oranges/reds manufacturer wise? I'm looking for a matte orange, like a mid to pale tone. I normally use VMC or S75 but I'm drawing a blank on my options.

E: Looking at them, Kalahari and Mars Orange for S75 seem quite nice, has anyone here used these?

Flipswitch fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Sep 26, 2016

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Hey goons, bit lost on a paint job and unsure how to tackle it further.

I painted up my first mini and was pretty happy with the outcome. But I decided to work on a second to see if I could come up with an alternate scheme I preferred and fancied giving orange a go, but something with it isn't quite coming out right:


The greys are a little bit different in each ship, the top uses more of a blue grey and the bottom ship is a bit darker in real life, my lamp has really lit the thing up.

I wanted to add some contrasting light grey panels on the second one to offset the orange, but I'm not really sure where to place it, it just isn't quite working yet as a colour theme? any suggestions? and which do you guys/gals think looks better?

The first model is finished and sealed, the second still has a bit to go but I'm a bit lost on it.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


WIP of one of my Seattle-Class Carriers for Dropfleet;

Enjoying painting these and trying to figure out the sweet spot of how much highlighting I want to add whilst keeping things subtle. I think I need to push myself further on stuff.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


How do goons go about painting forest bases? I'm looking to do some old style European forests, so the trees are fairly dark I think but I do want some colour and richness to come through. I'm just a bit lost on how to approach painting the soil and trees. I've got some flowers/flock/leaves and stuff to add to the bases once painted. I'm just a bit lost on how to start.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Anyone have much experience with the Neo for Iwawa CN Airbrushes? http://www.firestormgames.co.uk/neo-for-iwata-cn-gravity-feed-airbrush-0-35mm-nozzle

Thinking of picking one up to get a grip and learn to sit down with airbrushing. Anyone have much experience on this brand or recommendations?

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Gonna throw up my WIP against the thread regulars cause there's some loving beautiful models here. But I'm slowly plodding along with my first test model for my Combined Army scheme:


Gonna do a very dark grey-black for the armour and I'm leaning towards a bright blue/turquoise for the plasma venting and eyes as a contrasting colour.

I've also learned I'm a really messy painter. :v:

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010



I have no idea where to go next with this model. But I'm happy so far.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Anyone here have any good recommendations on scenic trees? specifically I'm looking at the 4Ground tree sets. They seem quite nice if a bit pricey.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Anyone have any advice on making custom stencils? I recently picked up the Giant Killer Robots board game and want to repaint up those mechs.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


I loathe mold lines, remove em all. Even the ones nobody will see. Because you'll know its there.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Painted my first miniature in several years:


Terrible lighting due to it being night time, but I'm kind of happy with him! The visor is a bit brighter in person, I think the angle doesn't help there.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Any advice on tackling NMM and maybe some OSL? I'm starting with some Shatterpoint minis and I feel that they deserve that love.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Radiation Cow posted:

Both techniques rely on a solid understanding of how textures and objects interact with light. So, take the time to understand how light will hit a ball, cylinder, or cube, and translate that to your model. An easy way to get a basic understanding is to prime your model with a satin black undercoat, put it under a bright lamp, and see where the bright spots and shadows are.

Then, with NMM, the other thing to realise is that contrast is key. The faster something goes from dark to light, will determine how shiny it looks.

Other than that, both techniques really just depend a lot on being willing to faff and experiment. Look forward to seeing your results!

Thanks. I'll give it a try. I think knowing the right colours to use is going to be really key.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


What's a good colour equivalent for Agrax Earthshade? I used to use it for certain pin washes. Though I suppose any dark brown would do?

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Z the IVth posted:

In addition to self-levelling and being able to be sprayed or brushed on for an extremely durable coat (floor polish innit). It's also dirt cheap for a product which is on par with if not superior to a purpose made product.

£7.65 for 200ml of Vallejo Gloss
£18 for 900ml of Quick Shine Floor Polish which includes £3 shipping.

Literally less than half the price.

Burnt umber with a touch of black in an oil wash can be used in virtually the same fashion. Goes on nicely, and doesn't leave tide marks.
Thanks mate!

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


I zenith black to grey because those are the primers I own. :shrug:

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


My desk is starting to look like Uralvagonzavod.



I'm not sure if I'm starting to regret playing an army scale game, this is draining!

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Does anyone have any good resources or help on painting camo? I'm looking to do a two pattern stripe but I'm painting up T-80UDs which have a ton of detail and ERA plates so it feels a little daunting.

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Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Anyone have a specific recommendation tutorial for OSL? Thinking of trying it for the first time on my jedi hunters.

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