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Boon posted:For the record, I loving hate the new flying stands. They look like the flying stands from 3rd edition. They allowed you to freely pose the models on that axis but broke all the time.
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Jun 14, 2015 23:16
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Z the IVth posted:Couldn't you just not use the stupid swivel bit? I am thankful I never ran into them personally, but I have seen the photos. When I was looking for base suppliers for my starships I found that having that little tilting bit made the base cost like 20x more than a plain one. It's a cool concept: since there is a pedestal for the model that sits on, it allows this zooming, fast-moving thing to be posed in different ways, that's neat! It cannot be done with models that are on the ground. It's hardly any different than how the Dreadnaught model is really, really good because the arms can be snug-fit for both removing destroyed weapons and posing during different "scenes" of a game. This is a dumb game, posing our silly space warriors is fun! But, someone engineered the shape and chose a material that is not only too brittle for a snap-fit rotating bracket to inevitably break but also too brittle to even support... Come on, the little tiny peg at the end of the very, very brittle pedestal is just as bad and it still haunts our collective nightmares. Have even the basic flying bases changed? I'm pretty sure they're the same clear plastic that has a tiny peg on the end to mount models. It's the reason why every salty modeler familiar with this game tells new players to bore out the mounting hole so that the ENTIRE flying stand can be snugly stuck inside. At least Citadel had the sense to make the column tapered instead of a cylinder, that would be a nightmare beyond nightmares... like getting Ebola then infecting your family with it by mistake! (Okay, maybe none of these modeling snafu's matter and it's not that bad).
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Jun 15, 2015 22:58
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The face and the wolf look great so far, you could do some surgery to pull the legs off and dunk those. Light sanding might save it, maybe not. Even if you separate the legs, though, the color of the torso and legs might be different. Political cartoons bleeding into mini gaming, ohhh nooo! 
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Jun 16, 2015 19:33
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Not to be pedantic, but that's clearly more a reference to model hobbies rather than mini wargaming. Even without the Airfix/Blairfix pun, it's pretty clear those Labour figures are the wrong scale for wargaming Oh crap, I thought this was still the painting AND modeling thread.  You're too humble, it looks great. Most of the model is the catsuit and you have painted it in such a way that by virtue of the material itself it has details, it has sheen, it has shadow. If comic books had that lycra flexing noise, this would be it. The base has a nice contrast of looking dusty and grimy. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Jun 18, 2015 |
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Jun 18, 2015 15:27
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PyroDwarf the paws boss looks dross! I think that means solid? Really great basing, too, I never have the patience for it. Some gentle application of dark washes in the recesses could give the armor more definition. SRM: desert camo crew, you got the sand color I could never achieve. My first attempt at that was an old Dark Eldar army, my new one looks just slightly better.
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Jun 22, 2015 18:17
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PyroDwarf posted:Thanks. I was going to do a panel line wash but it was late, I was tired and had a headache and wanted to finish him. I was also worried about messing everything up. I'll experiment on a dude next time. Miniatures Painting - Summer Of Love, "I'll Experiment On A Dude Next Time." 
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Jun 23, 2015 13:49
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PyroDwarf posted:Did the panel line thing. Can of dull coat ran out mid-application. Yup, looks mighty fine. If you want to lacquer the model in a way that will keep the paint from rubbing off for years, I suggest using the method I was taught ages ago: apply gloss coat, let it fully dry, then apply dull coat. Something about glossy varnish is tougher, dullcote brings it back down to what it should look like.
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Jun 25, 2015 07:17
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 Pardon that the lighting is so bad that two minis painted with the same paint look like two different colors. The one on the left is a rescued Vyper from a rolly-kit that was given to me. This is after two coats of Averland Sunset, which appears to be far too yellow to match the rest of my Dark Eldar figures. I have Heavy Goldbrown from Game Color but I'm not sure that's a match, either. What little I remember of my recipe for this army is that I started with Taucept Ochre, trying to make a stylized desert raider look. Is there a good match for that discontinued paint? Edit: Slightly less-awful photo of some of the Warriors I painted about four years ago, for color perspective:  Skarsnik posted:Typhus Incoming: I like my minis grimdark and disgusting, but your paintwork is superb. It reminds me of the early 2000's of White Dwarf, after they escaped the primary colors phase but still used vivid colors to make the minis stand out. The mini looks great and the nostalgia factor doesn't hurt. Dr. Gargunza posted:Does anyone with any casting experience know how long it takes to fully cure? I've been burned before (by a 1:1 resin, different brand, that I bought to experiment with last year; some of the bases I cast with it are *still* bendy) and I'd like to cast things the correct way from here on out. The piece I'm casting is a block roughly 1" x 5/8" x 3/4", slightly larger than a piece of bubble gum. Not to sound prick, but what do the instructions on the can say? I would follow those. Remember to lightly grease the mold first, and bear in mind that once you crack open the top the entire canister has a limited shelf life even if the cap is put on tightly. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 27, 2015 15:31
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Updates on the Venoms. Platform of on the rescue model looks like hot garbage, mainly due to my bad photography. There is a small amount of pooled ink that I need to fix, though. I discovered today that my pot of liche purple or whatever-the-gently caress is gone, maybe it's in storage but it probably dried-out months ago. From a modeling perspective there is a convenient out: I have all the infantry done, since it's the vehicles left I am free to do something different and it won't look too bizarre or inconsistent. I used my old favorite, French Grey-Blue, covered in in purple ink. These aren't done yet, this time I used Gehenna's Gold instead of Mythril Silver topped with Gryphone Seppia to color the weapons. These are about 65% done, I used greenstuff to fill the bubble in the cockpit of the rescue model. Lots of touchups to do as well as highlights. This project has shown me just how different the Venom and Vyper models are. I shared the reaction that the Venom was a lazy ripoff, it's a rather clever play on how a piece of technology shared by both races changes and is re-purposed over time. More highlights and cleanup to do, I'm surprised how so few of the current highlights show up in that photo.  A wash of Agrax Earthshade made the hull color close enough of a match for government work. Next to a previous model I see how the other color is closer to blue than purple, maybe I'll repaint the air foils but I'm happy with the canopy color. Once I finish these I'll probably do the Pain Engine next, there's still a set of Scourges on deck to assemble and paint as well as a Haemonculus.
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Jun 29, 2015 22:14
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I've been painting for over ten years and I just now made a terrible discovery: wet lacquer dissolves washes/ink. There was a tiny mote of fuzz or dust on a model I had just sprayed, so I wiped it off. That wiped the brown ink/wash I had applied. This is going to be a pain to color match/correct. Wait until the lacquer dries before pulling off little dust/fuzz/petdander/whatever.
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Jun 30, 2015 22:25
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Lord Twisted posted:a) GW vs Army Painter paints? I have both available from my FLGS, and was just wondering if one is considered vastly superior? I'm not familiar with Army Painter but they seem to use the same squeeze bottles as Vajello so definitely go with Army Painter. The squeeze bottles are far more useful and easier to use than the GW pots. They're more narrow so fall over far more easily, though, if that matters to you.
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Jul 1, 2015 17:07
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SRM posted:I feel like I'm almost always wasting paint out of dropper bottles since once it's out it can't really go back in. Good point, I need to take paint out of a GW pot using a larger brush, so less paint is wasted. But, the dropper bottles have screw tops, so the reverse can be done: use a brush to scoop up paint and scrape it into the bottle. Speaking of which: dust your painting table before painting. Getting fuzz, dust or hair onto a painted model is a real pain in the rear end.
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Jul 2, 2015 02:06
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Trigger warning: way too many  There's a chance I hate this model. Like the Venom, there were dozens of bits I didn't glue to the model because they were so tiny they'd be guaranteed to snap off at some point. I wanted to leave the blade rack off it but the model would look too boring and too small of a profile. The model is tiny and the proportions don't match up with the statline. The arms are way too loving long and don't look like they can smash a tank, it does look better since I repositioned the entire model so the arms hang down. At least it was easy to paint, I did a mid-level amount of detail on the paint. The skin is blue-grey and the mask and weapon thingy are purple, even in natural light it doesn't translate. The tail weapon is magnetized, I may use the blast weapon just because it looks better on the model.  See how it looks like dirty rainwater fell onto the carapace and dried out? That's not my fault, this is the second time that gloss cote (by Testor's) has dissolved the newer Games Workshop washes. I really like the washes, they're easier to use than the old inks, but I'm considering robbing some homeless warhams player to get his out-of-production ink.
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Jul 3, 2015 18:34
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krushgroove posted:[Really cool, detailed I've tried mineral spirits in the past since they're the "classic" solution for cleaning brushes or removing paint, had no luck with it. Used to use Dot-40 brake fluid but contact with that causes nerve damage, (when I work on cars I get a weird tingle in my fingertips if I touch brake fluid now) so I stick with Simple Green or Purple Power. Actually, I still haven't tried Purple Power, I can dunk an old Dark Eldar mini and report back.
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Jul 5, 2015 18:14
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An Angry Bug posted:Could use some tips. I bought some metal heads to use on my marines, and the drat things just will not prime properly. I've tried the GW primer-in-a-pot, but the stuff starts peeling off after the second layer of paint no matter what I do. It might be dirty, but the thing is so small I'm worried it'll fall down the drain when I try to clean it off. How should I handle that, and is there a good way to hold a metal head in place for spray priming? Ouch. I've never had paint peel like that but I have had gloss paint that never, ever dries out. Some people ran into mold-release compound that caused paint to peel off, once you scrub the models you should be all set. Your sink doesn't have a mechanical drain stopper? Plug the drain with the lever, plug it with a rubber stopper, whatever, just eliminate the hazard and go to work. Do it in a bucket if need be. As far as primers go I have never brushed-on primer except as a gag to show people how good Foundation Paints were when they came out. Spray 4 lyfe, and don't use Rustoleum (well, with some exceptions, I"m using a Rustoleum flat/matte spray right now and it hasn't done me dirty). Depending on your region, if you can get Meijer generic acrylic go for it, it's cheap and works fine. I have had multiple brands that had hosed-up batches that damaged the plastic, since you're spraying metal there's no risk of that.
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Jul 6, 2015 17:31
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Iron Crowned posted:I just use Krylon myself, but I also check the can to see what it bonds to. I did not know Meijer had a generic spraypaint, then again I'm mostly ever there to buy groceries, and rarely venture to other parts of the store. It's like a Super Target, it's got all the stuff a Wal-Mart would have but most of the stuff is higher quality and they don't horrifically abuse their employees. Go hog wild. Krylon is what hosed up one of my Vyper models years ago, but that was just some random flaw in the plastic composition or that particular batch of spraypaint (or both). Whatever the reason, the model got a pitted texture, I ended up spraying over a dozen layers on it, sanded it and made it into a Nuadhu Fireheart ride. One Target was in a really lousy area but I saw a manager having a pep talk with a group of employees and they looked ... happy to be at work. Preferable to employees looking broken and exhausted.
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Jul 7, 2015 18:23
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Box art has two effects: inspiring people with how neato it looks and inspiring new painters/players to think their attempts are poo poo. I got tired of painting, I just wanted a painted army, so I did up some Dark Eldar years ago just to get it done and on the table so I could play games (one of the appealing aspects of X-Wing and other pre-painted games). This is both to show how an experienced painter can fart out some tabletop quality stuff and to show that Purple Power is not the same as Simple Green. The results surprised me: About 20 hours dunked, nothing but the hair came off (completely vanished, no scrubbing). I even rubbed it with my thumb to see if paint was loose.  I rinsed it in 91% isopropyl alcohol-- this was entirely to dry-off the model and get the Purple off it-- other paint came off. I have absolutely no idea what caused this or why, I am a dunce when it comes to chemistry. I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush and got this:  It's like it's partially highlighted now. The basing material came off but that's typical since I used white glue. Pardon me for not photographing the base, it was black rimmed before the scrubbing, that's down to the white base coat now. Purple Power: mysterious Fantastic 4 properties (use Simple Green, do that instead) 
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Jul 8, 2015 01:20
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mentos posted:Banged out this Vostroyan Rocket launcher guy in about a day, after realizing my original battalion box didn't come with a mortar and I had to buy the Cadian HW frame. Good thing, because since I have used a bunch of Lascannon gunners as pilots for my Chimeras and sentinels I ended up with a bunch of these binocular guys lying around. That looks great! You do more work on bases than I would bother with and I the skull on the warhead. I cannot tell what the base model is, how much of the dude is conversion work?SkaAndScreenplays posted:I'm a fan of rustoleum double cover for a primer. Looks like I need to check out that as well as Super Clean. The Rustoleum matte white I got is working fine so far but it took hours to stop being tacky. It says to apply more coats several minutes later, that would be a terrible idea. The instructions do say, "... to handle in 5-9 hours and fully dry in 24 hours," so the instructions are well done I just didn't bother to read those.
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Jul 9, 2015 14:50
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NotQuiteQuentin posted:Does anyone have any tips for developing a steadier hand? I've recently started back painting but having a shaky brush is making me do way too many touch ups. For fine detail work I wrest my elbows on my thighs, have my hands together, if I need more stability I prop on the edge of the table. As others say, just  unless you have pee tests at work.
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Jul 10, 2015 23:08
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Is not power squatting, beefy legs, my kind of Marine asskicker. Nice job on making your own Chapter, too.
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Jul 13, 2015 17:47
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Drake_263 posted:I wish I could take credit for that but no, that's actually the Death Guard color scheme before they went all 'rot, vomit and pus'. Ahh, there was enough of your own touches I didn't recognize it. I was on the fence about how it looked until it was finished, (something I fret about when painting) the final result is quite good. The base is ace, too. Any particular trick to getting grass that tall to stick up, drilled a hole and stuffed the grass in?
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Jul 15, 2015 12:13
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It looks muddy, it looks good. A few tufts of static grass (brown may be best) will differentiate it as scenery, the brownie comments are just teasing. Does the base lay flat or are the lumps on the bottom making it wobbly? Could be sanded-off easily if so.
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Jul 20, 2015 17:25
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You know, Moola, there are other companies that make bases. I have a Chinese takeout carton (that's what they packaged them in) full of medium round bases made of MDF board. They used that flame cutting technique (or a really dull bandsaw blade) so smell real nice, like something cooked in an oven or a recent forest fire. I bought it from Grandiosities, (they made their own miniatures and had their own scifi game system, neat bunch of people) seems like some bad stuff went down because their website is gone. I guess he has a blog: http://johnnyborgcastings.blogspot.com
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Jul 21, 2015 14:29
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Testors Glosscote and Dullcote are the go-to in the US. Time has moved on, now, there are far more clear lacquers that won't ruin minis or look like poop. Krylon's "Crystal Clear" series has done me justice. The gloss isn't as glossy but the finished product isn't as flat when I top it with matte finish, either. Seems durable so far.
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Jul 23, 2015 01:08
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Arven posted:I'm finally getting around to painting some Mordians I snagged off ebay an age ago. I'm not great at painting, but I'd like to someday play with these things and have them not look like poo poo. It looks good! Thin your paints, though, I can see some streaks and brush strokes because the paint is too thick. The colors look fine to me. The pants could be lighter, but Mordians are nothing if not uniform in colors. Regardless, paint them how you want them to look! If it was hot pink with dark green I might object, but the color balance looks fine. I would worry more about putting too much effort into your rank-and-file troops, especially with a horde army like Imperial Guard.
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Jul 25, 2015 22:06
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Quick and dirty muscle daddy Wracks. The matte finish fogged up on me (humidity is normal and it's not cold outside, maybe this can also happen when the can runs low?) but it cleared up on its own after this photo was taken. Normally, it takes an extra coat of gloss finish to clear up the fogginess, then more matte to finish. I find it more satisfying to paint the minis in a satisfactory way so that they're completed, then lavish lots of details on characters (I added one extra highlight on the Acothyst dude plus detailed the gem in his weapon). Sand and static grass coming up once the varnish dries.
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Jul 26, 2015 01:53
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Partial Octopus posted:
You should have a fun time with that, painting greenish camo colors over black is rather easy and almost always looks great. Those models would make nice Mandrakes, too. Direwolf posted:Been a long time since I've put anything together... minor conversion but due to the sculpt it took nearly 2 hours and I'm still not sure about it. Looks great! Having the arms away from the chest allows more of the detail in the model to show and that fighting stance is very Khorne: all offense and no defense.
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Jul 27, 2015 17:01
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Miniatures Painting - Smooth, Black Rimming (Kinda Meh)
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Jul 28, 2015 15:04
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Black rims can look nice, but when black is a predominant color on the model then it looks like the base is somehow related to the character.
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Jul 29, 2015 16:35
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I liked the brownies but those do look even better. Nice gloss effects, and you varied the colors/materials on the base like I suggested, visual cues like that help trick the eye into seeing what you intend.
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Aug 1, 2015 17:41
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Don't worry about the hairs on the model, you're looking at it with your eyeballs inches away from the mini, you the painter see every single flaw that 99% of people will never notice.
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Aug 2, 2015 16:15
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Boon posted:I've been somewhat productive on the "rose" front today so I figured I'd post these. The Farseer's chassis isn't done, and he/she needs a satin finish, but otherwise they're all done (except their bases). Great work as always. I don't think the Farseer's hood looks cluttered, I seems to me that what happened is the vines and flowers are so uniformly patterned that it reminds me of the floral patterned wallpaper borders that you'd find at Grandma's house.
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Aug 4, 2015 02:43
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SRM posted:Sorry buddy, once I went scorched brown I could never go back. @~'~,~~ Gone But Not Forgotten ~~,~'~,~@ My last pot of that dried out so I started modifying Dark Flesh. One of the last remaining batches of Calthan Brown shall soon turn to a useless polymer lump. 
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Aug 5, 2015 02:46
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Mobile paint? Choose the small number of minis you want to paint, plan the colors you need. If you take your whole paint set you're doing it wrong. Painting surface, palette to load paint on? Get a glossy magazine. Newspaper can work in a pinch but it absorbs moisture like a sponge and may bleed through onto the table. Two or three brushes max, use the cup in the bathroom as your water pot for brush cleaning and stuff. Use the plastic coffee mug they leave in the room if you are an evil person.
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Aug 7, 2015 00:31
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Cyclomatic posted:I want to put some hand lanterns on some of my bases, to try and make them feel like they are in a mine shaft. There are some Warhammer and Mordheim kits that have lanterns that would work, the Cities Of Death / Imperial Cities / Whatever sets have lots of science fiction future lamps, go for those. Play Amnesia: The Dark Descent or watch a playthrough of it for some inspiration related to scary poo poo about lanterns.
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Aug 8, 2015 03:56
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Solid, dried paints are useless, maybe a chemist would know how to reconstitute them. If any are soft pour water into the pot and stir them with a brush handle a day or two later.
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Aug 8, 2015 14:59
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Moola posted:would melting via a flame do anything? That only works with a full set of Warhammer Fantasy figurines.
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Aug 8, 2015 20:09
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They are a bit drab, the Dreadknight needs his finishing details, but they look terrific. The clear bases are neato, going to stick with them?
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Aug 9, 2015 17:12
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HardCoil posted:I agree. Once I get them under proper lighting I'll add some edge highlights and deepen the shadows a bit. Any further suggestions to make them pop? I'm thinking some of the red/white stripe design on the marine weapons maybe? For the knight and dread I should probably look intro weathering. Maybe a gentle application of a bright metallic highlight on the weapons, I see some hints of that on the gatling weapon on the Dreadknight. Some more red/white mural work could be done on the Knight and other stuff, I wouldn't go too strong with the edge highlights because these are bordering on the semi-realistic look that some SA painters have done recently. I'm trying to edge away (ho ho!) from hard edge highlighting myself, it's less flashy but more natural looking. I should take some photos of the full set of Dark Eldar stuff I've done, some photos that aren't crap. It's not easy getting that balance between something in miniature that pops when looked at from a distance, yet isn't muddy or dull, and looks good when photographed up close.
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Aug 11, 2015 17:49
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There are times where blood effects look pretty cool. It is a game where many people are messily butchered, it fits the setting, when someone uses the gore effects delicately rather than slamming red paint onto the miniature it looks great.
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Aug 16, 2015 18:17
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