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Back to painting after a five year hiatus. Painted this dude, who's BA-AD to the bone.    First try od osl, not particularly happy with how it looks in the front. Any tips? Thinking maybe it's too symmetrical?
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Jun 27, 2021 19:56
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 00:36 |
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This guy was incredibly fun to paint and I'm pretty happy with how he looks. First time I did NMM, think it looks okay? Any c&c welcome.  
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Oct 24, 2021 09:06
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Snail WIP I was a bit worried about the contrast between the super saturated shell and the desaturated body. But now on the base, it fits perfectly with my cave-dwelling anglerfish type mood. Just need to finish up the metals on the shell and the lamp. Still debating whether to OSL, do you guys have any thoughts?
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Dec 20, 2021 11:57
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Agreed. It should be fixable with some white highlights on his face and hair, maybe?
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Dec 31, 2021 05:50
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Very happy with the NMM and shell on this. Still contemplating some osl, but I think I'm going to leave it as is. 
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Jan 6, 2022 16:26
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a fatguy baldspot posted:I just started this hobby, I'm really enjoying it - it's relaxing to be able to focus on something so intently. This is one of my first guys, meet Hoof Hartley. Primed with Krylon matte white, then coated with Vallejo sky grey followed by cold white. I'm not quite done painting him, but I was struck by a question: Why does he look so bad?? So, there are several reasons why poor Hoof looks a bit hard done by. The first, as people already mentioned, is thick paint layers. It's tempting to try and force poor-covering paint by just adding more, but it's probably quicker to apply three or four coats of a much thinner paint than trying to fix one bad thick coat. However, when you start thinning your paints, make super sure that you're not overloading your brush. A full brush is going to splooge paint everyone the moment it hits your model. You can see an example of this in your second group of models in the recesses of the jetpack. Instead, wipe off the excess onto a paper towel. As you gain experience, you'll start understanding how different paints work and what different consistencies do. The second major issue is that white is already the brightest possible color. Minis are so small that they don't generate their own shadows, which is why they tend to look fake, flat and plastic. You need to add the highlights and shadows appropriately to achieve a more realistic, or at least more interesting effect. A good way of identifying highlights and shadows is to basecoat satin black, put it under a strong lamp and take a photo. Then overexpose the photo to heck and you'll get a very useful intensity map of where you need to focus your attention. If you're new, focus on brush control and getting to know your paint. Less is more, and you'll feel much more in control with a brush that has too little paint than too much.
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Jan 6, 2022 18:48
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a fatguy baldspot posted:Do you mean in the middle? Is there any way to fix this or is it too late? You can probably fix it with a wash of nuln oil or another dark wash, focusing on getting the wash in the recesses instead of on the complete jetpack.
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Jan 7, 2022 17:04
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Indolent Bastard posted:I am enjoying them. Some aren't great like white and "flesh", but over all I quite like them. Are you having the reactivation issue? Some of the YouTube people noted that they don't ever really dry, and even water can easily reactivate them later.
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Mar 28, 2022 08:42
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The only reason I use matte varnish is because I love having an ultra-matt finish on my display models.
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Apr 12, 2022 10:40
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It took a long time but he's done, just needs sticking on the base. Everyone, meet Hors.   
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Apr 15, 2022 20:08
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
I recently watched a video from Richard Gray where he said that he photos his Golden Demon entries after a session to pick up any mistakes. If Richard Hecking Gray finds mistakes in photos, I'm pretty sure everyone else will as well. One thing that you could try to focus on is going darker with your shadows. Currently, you've got a great midtone and good highlights, but there's very little definition due to the lack of contrast. High contrast will look better in person, and will also appear much better on camera.
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Apr 20, 2022 17:39
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And if you're worried about the "flowingness" of thinned paint, remember to wick excess paint off the brush before applying it to the model. This was more of a gamechanger to newbie me than simply "thin your paints".
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May 9, 2022 11:49
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I'm planning on entering this diorama into a local painting comp. I'm just putting on finishing touches (fixing the skulls adding some weathering to the monster's cloak and adding some osl to the candles), wondering if there's anything I should do to make it better. E: With bigger pictures (hopefully)  
Radiation Cow fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 09:13
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Maneck posted:It looks terrific, but those pictures are a little small. There are some very talented people in the thread, and with a bigger picture they might be able to help. Thanks, no idea what went wrong with the upload the first time around.
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Aug 7, 2022 12:28
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Thanks for the feedback, guys. Lots of super-useful stuff, and the basing composition is incredibly interesting and something I didn't even consider. Still have a couple of days before the deadline, so I'll incorporate as much of this as possible.
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Aug 7, 2022 16:20
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Hopefully the pics don't get shrinked again, but here are some of the competition of th diorama. Lots of fun, lots of learning and I'm pretty satisfied with the final result.   
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Aug 10, 2022 20:15
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Fully agree, dioramas are a lot of fun, especially if you like the base building aspect of the hobby
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Aug 11, 2022 10:20
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Gambrinus posted:Here is a terrible Squig. I bought him(?) in 1993/4. It's the first Squig I've ever done, and the first anything I've painted in over 20 years. He's wonderful.  Here's some skellies I painted as a palate cleanser after my competition entry. They were so much fun, can't wait to paint the second batch. I bought some soft pastels for pigment powder, so now I have no excuse not to go for magical terrain all the time.  
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Aug 22, 2022 18:28
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The entire Cursed City box is quality minis, and the skeletons are definitely some of the least complex in the set. That's why I like them so much, so many modern GW minis are waaay too ornate.
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Aug 22, 2022 19:52
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Oof, and I doubt you can recoup your costs like you could when it was OOP. Maybe you'll get the motivation again at some point, they're fantastic sculpts. And building them is the worst part, some bits are so fragile.
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Aug 22, 2022 20:02
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It's really hard to say, but I'd say it was between two and three hours for the breastplates, weapons and helmets, and around two for the shields and other bronze stuff. The oil washes for the verdigris and rust were like, five minutes for the squad. I think that if you get a workflow going where all the minis have similar shapes, NMM is probably only slightly slower than doing "proper" TMM. I just do it because I like doing NMM, and the more practice, the better.
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Aug 25, 2022 09:42
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I need to make some lava bases. They look great, and that little bit of green at the top just sets everything off so nicely.
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Sep 9, 2022 16:03
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Painted some zombies over the weekend. They're goofy, but I love em. Was worried about the halfway mark that they were boring, but adding the tops and pigments made them a lot more colourful.  
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Sep 18, 2022 15:42
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Loxbourne posted:These are great, and I love the tombstones. Where are they from? They have this New Orleans vibe, like they're about to burst into dance at any moment. As others have said, they're from the Cursed City game box. Never going to play the game but the minis are great. These remind me a lot of colourful goths that all dance the same way at the club.
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Sep 19, 2022 05:18
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AndyElusive posted:Meant no disrespect, just off-hand referencing a phrase from a shirt my gf got me: I need that shirt. And love the skin on that infiltrator, as well as how clean everything is.
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Sep 19, 2022 19:19
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I've found that having my pics be slightly blurry makes them look better. So that's what I'm going to carry on doing.
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Sep 25, 2022 08:16
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Funzo posted:Painted some Zombies for my Gravelords army. All contrast paints, except for metals. I really need to get me a box of those. Also, I painted Cthulhu Moses.  
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Oct 1, 2022 20:33
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One way that I've had success is to smoosh the clay into the base by facing the clay on a flat surface with water, then rubbing it vigorously in a circular motion. Then turning it around, rolling, and cutting off any excess with a sharp knife. But I think for your application, just rolling a thin sheet and breaking it up will probably work better.
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Oct 11, 2022 10:17
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Got myself the full set of Dirty Down's Moss, Rust and Verdigris and played around with them a bit. The current verdict is that rust and moss are easy to use out of the bottle while verdigris has a bit of a learning curve. I get the feeling that all three have a high skill ceiling, where you can slap them on and get okay results, or learn how to use them properly and get amazing results.  
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Oct 12, 2022 06:55
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Started a potential competition entry. Lots of refining left on the metals but satisfied with the initial placement and tones. It's weird how natural NMM feels, especially when comparing it to something like skin. Think this dude will be a great exercise in that!
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Oct 18, 2022 20:51
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Floppychop posted:My winsor and newton series 7 brushes are finally starting to show their age after a few years. I understand that their quality has tanked pretty hard recently. What are some good replacements now? I like Da Vinci Maestro 10s. They've got a big belly and hold their point very nicely, and tend to be on the more affordable end of the spectrum. I also have a Roubloff that I picked up at an art store, and that's been my workhorse for most of this year.
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Oct 25, 2022 08:31
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SkyeAuroline posted:Something remains seriously wrong with my wet palette, but on a positive note, turns out Battletech stuff is much easier to set a goal for and paint. Nothing to show yet since they look disastrous so far (would help if my paint wasn't near instantly water within 30 seconds of contact with a wet palette, or else dried out completely within 5 minutes on a dry one) but hopefully I'll have much sooner things to show off than "whenever I finish the nightmare pile of Iron Warriors". Have you tried building your own from scratch?
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Oct 31, 2022 05:01
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SkyeAuroline posted:Yup. Same results. Since I actually took some photos today, here's how the current one is going: So frustrating. I remember some other goons trying to help you troubleshoot, so I won't go over that again. Even though I'd really love to help you solve the issue. :  I feel like my painting's stagnated a bit, so a before/after thing is actually a nice idea. Your stuff looks so much smoother GB, the progress is especially clear on that Ultramarine. Gentler highlights, better contrast and just better ovall.
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Oct 31, 2022 08:57
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Spanish Manlove posted:Those pictures of the paint on the palette look totally normal to me. Mine do that a lot and are still very much useful. A wet palette just delays when stuff dries out, it's not going to make them everlasting I think it may be this, or potentially a paint issue if it persists over multiple palettes
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Oct 31, 2022 19:11
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Speaking of pains in the rear end, I strongly recommend never, ever doing three-tone hair.
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Nov 7, 2022 18:29
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Spanish Manlove posted:Wet blending with contrast would make that so much easier 100%. I started from a black undercoat because the initial plan was to keep everything desaturated and night-scene-like. That, obviously, went out the window when I decided RAINBOW. But live and learn, I guess. tangy yet delightful posted:Looking great! What model is this? I think my daughter would lose her mind if I got one and painted it up. Thanks! It's a 3D print from 3DArtDigital. There's also an evil version if you're feeling particularly edgy. Radiation Cow fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Nov 7, 2022 |
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Nov 7, 2022 18:58
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Al-Saqr posted:ordered some green stuff putty and tools from Army Painter so I can make the hair for my ork kommandos to have fighting game character hair, any advice or tips? anything I should know about working with green stuff? Greenstuff is pretty tricky to work with and will take some getting used to. Some tips to make your life easier: 1) let the greenstuff cure for about an hour after mixing before working with it. 2) Have plenty of petroleum jelly on hand. I love the idea of a Guille ork, so hoping you come right!
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Nov 8, 2022 08:38
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Anecdotally, I found Vallejo's black surface primer to be incredibly hard to use through an airbrush. Constant clogs, weird spray patterns. Did a ton of troubleshooting before identifying the primer, as the airbrush did fine with grey primer, inks, and just normal acrylic paints. Switched to ProAcryl's primer and haven't had problems since. Still use the Vallejo, just with a hairy brush instead of through the airbrush.
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Nov 15, 2022 08:56
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It may also just be the ink. I generally give mine 24 hours to cure because I once ran into a similar issue. Everything looked dry and felt dry to the touch after an overnight wait, but just some water was enough to start peeling off the ink layer. The primer below was fine so definitely an ink problem
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Nov 21, 2022 05:03
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 00:36 |
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Lucinice posted:If I'm looking to strip some minis using isopropyl alcohol should I also get a mask? I haven't strip minis before and I don't want to end up accidentally destroying my lungs or something. Nah, isopropyl is fine. It's a very volatile chemical (evaporates quicky) but doesn't have any particulates that can gently caress up your lungs. If you decide to huff the bottle you may get a bit dizzy, but that's about it.
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Nov 22, 2022 18:26
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