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Holy poo poo that OP  Time to take my procrastination to the new thread... later... someday... maybe... if I feel like it.
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Mar 11, 2015 14:29
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Fyrbrand posted:RIP old painting thread. Long live the painting thread. Strip and repaint! Strip and repaint! (while ~1200 other miniatures wait for their first paintjob)
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Mar 11, 2015 15:02
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Hubis posted:Does anyone make a set of UV Phosphorescent model paints? Bonus points if I can push them through an airbrush? I have ~*IdEaS*~ Vallejo. And you can airbrush them, but fluo paints are utter assholes to work with, each in its own individual way.
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Mar 16, 2015 16:18
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Iris of Ether posted:Train Shopping While Female? Don't. Get as far away as you can. Order online.
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Mar 19, 2015 22:25
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Farts posted:Anything I can do to keep the paint wet longer? No, seriously. A bigger brush, say size 2 holds more paint and dries slower than a size 00 one. You just have to find some that have good points. With 00s I had one attempt before I had to clean the brush/take more paint. Nowadays I just say "gently caress it I'm too lazy to grab the detail brush" and do eyes with my default one.
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Mar 23, 2015 13:48
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Your highlights are way too stark for doing B&W Not everywhere; half the point of the b&w challenge is to learn how different materials reflect light; when you have metal, cloth, plastic, skin on the same mini and only 2 paints to work with the sharpness is one of the few things you can influence.
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Apr 2, 2015 12:31
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krushgroove posted:If I'm going to do that, I'll either put it on my own site (at least, the stuff I've directly written) or put it on a publicly readable wiki...once some pictures and other things have been added to it it should be easier to go through. Please don't do that... or at least keep the OP. There's already a ton of painting blogs and other tutorials offsite.
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Apr 2, 2015 15:28
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Arcturas posted:I'm fine with having a more detailed resource in a linked blog or wiki, but it's really nice to have the very basic/beginner stuff in the OP. It's basically the only place I looked to get my shopping list for last weekend, and while I could probably have looked at linked resources, stuff that's actually in an OP jumps out at you far more than a link that says "check this out, I promise there's good stuff there." This is what I meant. The OP's like a detailed writeup of the basics, specifics can go in a wiki.
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Apr 2, 2015 22:01
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DJ Dizzy posted:On a completely unrelated note, where do I get GWs shining gold these days? Which one? I've got two from different generations that I use as entirely separate colors 
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Apr 10, 2015 13:10
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signalnoise posted:It's an ever-expanding collection where I use whatever is newest. I don't like this. Do you guys have just massive paint collections or do you have a set you can stick with? Paints multiply just like unpainted minis. It's a fact of life.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:41
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enri posted:Vallejo game color black comes out quite matte for me Hahaha no, that thing is glossy as gently caress. Good if you want the look of fresh asphalt or something, otherwise you'll have to break it with some matte medium.
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Apr 15, 2015 00:17
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El Estrago Bonito posted:This is actually what you want from yellow and red paints. And the massive bitching about yellow/red coverage finally makes sense, it's collective masochism 
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Apr 16, 2015 11:28
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moths posted:
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Apr 17, 2015 00:50
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Finished some Mantic zombies for KoW! I'm 100% happy with how they came out, but I feel like I've sort of plateaued lately. I feel like I'm missing the One Weird Trick that might make them pop a little more. Does anybody have suggestions for what to learn next? Or something I should be doing differently?
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Super Waffle posted:
Let me tell you about Imperator-class titans
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Apr 27, 2015 14:45
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I thought they topped out at the Reaver class. How much does that thing cost?
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krushgroove posted:Hell, GW is even going to start charging people just to look at the models at Warhammer World after it opens up again. I'm not sure if you're joking or if you're actually serious 
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Apr 27, 2015 15:55
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krushgroove posted:Sorry to be the bearer of bad news: http://warhammerworld.games-workshop.com/citadel-miniatures-hall/
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Apr 27, 2015 16:33
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signalnoise posted:Alright suggestion time. I'm going to paint up my Dropzone Commander PHR like Skynet Terminators and my Resistance like they're from the Resistance from the new Terminator movies. I'm thinking for the PHR I do chrome with dark inking in recesses and red lights, maybe using a wash made from P3 Coal Black. Any suggestions on how to make a convincing chrome paintjob? Alternative #1: The way scale car modelers do it. Extra-smooth primer, chrome paint, buff, gloss coat, repeat 1741369 times. Alternative #2: if you're not looking for "true chrome coat I can see myself in" but just a super-shiny metallic that looks good on the tabletop, Vallejo Model Air has very fine metallics a whole class above the usual mini painting stuff. Might try that and see if it's enough (you'll steel want VMA Steel for weapons/accents at this scale)
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May 2, 2015 17:16
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I do bases separately but for particular models, not "100 random bases". That is, I mark the space where the model's feet will rest and leave it without sand and other random basing stuff. Correcting gaps later isn't a big problem.
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May 3, 2015 18:33
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VMA Gungrey is good for dirty boltgun look but it's air-brush-only, surprisingly poor for brushing on, especially since VMA Steel does it just fine. I use Army Painter Gunmetal now and I love it, it's hmm a tiny bit brownish (or less blue?) but it adds to the effect if anything. Not sure how it compares to the actual citadel one because my pot of Boltgun Metal is probably caked solid from disuse
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May 6, 2015 16:04
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treeboy posted:been looking at the home made washes video from dakka, is there a decent guide for making glazes? Didn't see anything in the OP. Glaze medium is a thing.
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May 9, 2015 23:18
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It's not an instructional mini, it's a preorder bonus. And since it's a gaming piece and the non-limited sculpt is old as gently caress, the obvious thing is to ebay it and paint something from your own faction.
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May 26, 2015 21:17
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Is there an easy way to mix metallic paints like silver with another color, say a nice blue, to get metallic blue? Or would it be better to find specific blue metallic paint? I don't have much practice with mixing. Buy Vallejo Model Air Steel. Beautiful smooth pigment and strong metallic that mixes very nicely. It's the best medium for colored metallics I found (Vallejo metallic medium is poo poo) I made good metallic blues with it.
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May 30, 2015 10:00
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Ignite Memories posted:Is the sandpapery texture a completely different problem from the white frosting problem some people have on the internet?
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Jun 2, 2015 19:14
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PierreTheMime posted:
Yes, we can see that. Bring your model in, dry it off, and take another picture.  It looks awesome and appropriately disgusting
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Jun 10, 2015 23:25
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nesbit37 posted:Cross posting from the Oath thread. If anyone has tips to do faces better on 10mm I am all ears. I think part of it is just looking at them in photos, because in real life, and especially on the table, they look just fine. The faces on these were just a base coat and 1 highlight. I did do the eyes on the king but you can't even tell unless its like 6 inches from your face Wash, highlight, done. If you want eyes a single half-transparent black dot is enough. The golden rule is the smaller the model, the more pronounced the shading should be.
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Jun 12, 2015 21:24
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Under 15 posted:Yeah, I bet if you spent three dollars or so on a micropen and went nuts on those models it would look great. Excellent investment, I underestimated it completely. Can't be arsed, I use a size 3 brush TheCosmicMuffet posted:I can't remember the wonderful human being who did it, but somebody in here had Rainbow nids that were A) gorgeous and B) sure to cause a backup of bile in the shitheads who ruin everything even slightly fun with their putrescent shitheadedness. Heads full of poo poo. Poop. Yeah, they were awesome, someone please repost Hive Fleet Skittles. 
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Jun 13, 2015 14:06
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Speckled Jim posted:Im looking at painting some black power armour shortly and I seem to remember a sugestion for a black paint that wasnt super black. I only have Abaddon black at the moment and not being able to add shadows makes things look a bit lackluster. Something that you can still wash would be super. RMS Noir Black is awesome for a first highlight of pure black. Pure black, Noir Black highlights, VMC German Grey edges, done.
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Jun 23, 2015 15:04
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PyroDwarf posted:Also the plastic is soft, so it was hard to remove the mold lines without damage.
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Jun 28, 2015 15:16
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SRM posted:I feel like I'm almost always wasting paint out of dropper bottles since once it's out it can't really go back in. I thought the same way at first, but OTOH you don't have paint needlessly drying in the pot, you don't waste time transferring the paint to a palette with a brush/toothpick to thin/mix, and if you use an airbrush, bottles win hands down from sheer convenience.
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Jul 1, 2015 20:43
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Skarsnik posted:Isn't Vallejo the range that has a colour called grey primer that isn't a primer? Yes, they have a white not-primer as well.
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Jul 2, 2015 17:48
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serious gaylord posted:Dont. Leave it finished, move on to the next one. If you still hate it after you've done all of them then strip and repaint. As much as I hate to admit it, it's true. At least you'll have a playable force with a mediocre paintjob instead of an army in gleaming thrice-stripped pewter.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:25
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Has anyone used Vallejo inks over silver to make coloured metallics? I'm thinking of trying it out as a non-airbrush-alternative to the Forgeworld Alpha Legion scheme. Grab Vallejo Moral Air Steel (71.065). It's very strongly metallic and has very fine pigment, so if you want to make something like green/blue/purple metallics it works awesome.
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Jul 7, 2015 22:22
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:To be honest I'm not sure I want a super bright finish. I also don't want to buy more than I have to, my pot of Runefang Steel is still in good condition. It's not super bright, the point of bright metallic is so you have the shine when it inevitably gets dulled down by the paint you mix with it. EDIT: and it goes well brushed on
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Jul 7, 2015 23:00
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Oh, I was thinking of using the inks as glazes rather than mixing them directly with the silver. Not inks. Paint. I made pretty blue metal using Steel + Imperial Blue + Turquoise.
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Jul 7, 2015 23:31
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berzerkmonkey posted:I can't help you with the color, but you can get that worn effect by sponging on the paint. Tape off the "clean" asphalt and sponge away - it will look awesome. Alternatively: spray everything black, paint yellow/white markings, sponge everything with RMS Noir Black or equivalent (it's a very dark graphite color, direct highlight for pure black).
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Jul 8, 2015 15:25
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Vallejo Liquid Gold: airbrushable or not? If so, anything I have to know over the basics for acrylics? ...and no, I'm not painting AoS VVV: Thanks Pierzak fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 18:38
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KPC_Mammon posted:I'm thinking partially oxidized copper with brass joints. Verdigris glaze, job's done. gently caress spending more time for the same effect Don't use Black Lava on the models, it'll have a "holy poo poo it's rusting so badly it's bubbling and literally falling apart as I watch" and besides this effect is more appropriate for steel, not copper. And blue glow is the easiest loving thing: - OldGW Ice Blue, Reaper LED blue or equivalent + some glaze medium, dab some ~2 mm around the light, plus on protruding elements around where the light would reflect the strongest - add a bit of white to the mix, dab ~1 mm around the light - add more light (at this stage it should be white that's slightly tinted blue), paint the light itself - done.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:59
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KPC_Mammon posted:That doesn't sound too bad. I'll pick up some glazing medium and give it a try. Vallejo Glaze Medium is amazing, I drink it every day.
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Jul 10, 2015 02:32
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Paranoid Dude posted:Does anybody here have any experience with P3 washes? Are you intended to use them as-is like Citadel Shades, or are you supposed to thin them out? I know that if they aren't exactly what I'm looking for, thinning them out is my own prerogative, but it'd be nice to know if I should thin them out before they hit the pallet. Armor wash is your usual black wash, only slightly bluish. Not enough difference to notice. Flesh wash really likes some thinner and glaze medium if you're gonna use it like a wash, otherwise it's very concentrated and pools into crevices so you get overdone modern-GW look instead of a smoother shading. Also, less transparent.
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Jul 14, 2015 01:06
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Monster w21 Faces posted:Would your answers change if I told you the shield was gold? Add more green and teal.
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Jul 14, 2015 13:18
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