Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
Thanks guys. And I'm so stealing the satin varnished primer trick.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Eediot Jedi posted:

The few army painter paints I have went from compete loving garbage I can't believe anyone uses this poo poo, to actually pretty good after getting a mixer.

Yes, their paints range from trash to mediocre to decent with very inconsistent quality from batch to batch, but their washes are consistently great

VVV: I really hope so, I just bought their big set in a vain hope of painting my boardgame poo poo.

Pierzak fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Jul 10, 2022

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
Wait. Are we talking actual seafoam, or some chemical for imitating seafoam on dioramas?

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

SiKboy posted:

Okay, there is a plant, Teloxis Aristata, which is known as "Seafoam", which is used to make realistic model trees. Heres a train guy using it to make trees: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIaofCBvJKo (which will be too fragile for wargaming on its own I think, but great for dioramas and train layouts) and heres luke from geekgamingscenics using seafoam to add branches to a tree armature which is a better way to use if for gaming. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkJr692r9Bo&t=246s

This is the seafoam I assumed punishedkissinger was asking about, not "foam on the sea" because yeah, just paint that in, you dont need to texture it, or buy one of the water effects kits that exist.

Thanks for the explanation. I couldn't rule out actual solidified seafoam because, you know, :modelers:

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

War and Pieces posted:

Died heroically in defence if the perfectly manicured lawns of the hell world Armageddon

HOAs confirmed for being tools of the devil.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
Sewn from the skins of literal gaunts.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

bird food bathtub posted:

What's a good way to do snow on a base? All I can think of so far is white flock and that seems like it would have the wrong texture.

I haven't yet seen a base that couldn't use some topical application of thinned gloss varnish to represent slush and half-melted snow.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Toebone posted:

I've always used Vallejo paints along with some Citadel washes & technicals. I checked out a new local game shop recently and they've got full lines from both, plus AK Interactive, P3, Army Painter, Scale Color, Turbo Dork, and Woodland Scenics. Anything special among those brands I should grab next time I'm there?

Army Painter:
- definitely grab their basic washes (soft, strong, dark, flesh tones), a good match for oldschool GW stuff.
P3:
- mostly feels and paints like the really old GW paints line, down to the soft cap pots. If you're missing those paints go for it.
- don't get their metallics, they're bad.
Scale Color:
- super smooth pigment
- might have worse coverage, but it seems a feature and not an oversight (goes smooth but might need another coat for full coverage).
- their inks are extremely concentrated, e.g. I have a red ink that gives decent effect directly on black primer!
- very nice metallics, including some colored ones, with absolute dogshit labeling (naming them after metal music subgenres was a cute idea that never worked in practice)

Plus some of those launched their own Contrast-equivalent paint lines, I know S75 and AP did, but I don't know enough to name the differences between them.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Muir posted:

Every paint brand comparison video I've seen reaches the same conclusion.

Might linking a few of them? These two posts are literally the first time I encountered bad opinions on the AP washes.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Muir posted:

I wasn't referring to their washes in particular, just their paints in general.

And I was referring to their washes specifically.

The uneven and often mediocre quality of plain Army Painter paints are a well-known fact and I don't need any more material on that, but their washes are excellent so I was surprised.


The Demilich posted:

I'll die on the hill that people should just buy liquitex flow improver and various acrylic mediums to make their own stuff. It just lasts so much longer.
Time spent mixing fluids is time not spent painting minis, and I have way too much poo poo in my backlog as it is.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Count Thrashula posted:

Army Painter just put out a video saying that they know everybody dislikes their paints so they're reformulating them and working with content creators to make a better product. I respect that.

Welp, time to buy a gallon of their washes before they gently caress up the formula.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

NinjaDebugger posted:

If they reduce or eliminate the reactivation on the speed paints I will be honestly sad, you can do some cool poo poo with that.

Elaborate? I have the full set, a bit concerned but I figured I can fix the reactivation with some varnish if need be and it could help with blending/fixing.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Muir posted:

Contrast and Xpress Paint don’t need fixing with varnish by the end user, though. Reactivation is a problem.

That's exactly the problem I was asking about, from what I've seen the most common recommendation is to give the model a light coat of varnish between speedpaints and normal paints, specifically to prevent reactivation.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Spanish Manlove posted:

more durable than the Vallejo model colors
This isn't even a low bar, this is a line painted on the ground. VMCs paint real nice but rub off if you so much as think about them too hard.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Angry Lobster posted:

Whoever designed Citadel's contrast paint pots is history's greatest monster.

Old Citadel screwed up top pots say otherwise.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

protomexican posted:

ideally, bristles down
As in, clamp the brush somehow, or what?

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Al-Saqr posted:

the eyes, I am deathly afraid of them, I tried dabbing red to give the ork angry red eyes but not only is it not vibrant at all no matter how softly I dab it just splats in there in a really ugly way, I got flashbacks to that badly painted imperial guardsman and stopped when I could still do so.
1. paint eyes as pure white dots (none of the off-white stuff, go for the most eyefuckingly bright one available)
2. paint eyes red
3. paint a tiny dot of yellow in the center, yellows have lovely coverage so it'll end up as just a highlight which is what you want

If/when you gently caress up and paint outside the lines, just use a darker version of whatever wash/ink you use to shade the flesh to clean it up, in 90% of cases it should be enough.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Siivola posted:

Try painting a couple of models and see what happens. You can always strip them later.

And remember to wash them first (warm water, a bit of soap) to get the dust off.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply