|
How are the Army Painter speed paint 2.0 paints? I currently just use craft store and mid grade artists acrylics, heavily watered down with good quality acrylic medium added for my limited mini painting, but there's just so many steps to do it right . Wish I had an airbrush but I don't have the space or ventilation to set that up in my current living space
|
# ¿ Sep 29, 2023 20:18 |
|
|
# ¿ May 22, 2024 00:43 |
|
Devorum posted:I like them a lot. There's a few stinkers, but on the whole it's a great set with a good color range. That's really good! Hm. Maybe I'll hold off till Vallejo's expanded color palette is out so the reviews and comparisons come in and then settle on one
|
# ¿ Sep 30, 2023 16:01 |
|
This is one area that doing a zenithal prime is such a good idea. Do a good job of the zenithal, and then take some good, well lit photos from all angles of the mini. Then you can cross-reference those images for where you should be doing your highlights and darker/lighter shades of the same 'base' Colour, to simulate light shining on the figure from above.
|
# ¿ Oct 2, 2023 08:02 |
|
Looks great! What did you use to base it?
|
# ¿ Oct 4, 2023 18:29 |
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDCpD8E5VOA Interesting technique.
|
# ¿ Oct 6, 2023 18:53 |
|
Cease to Hope posted:modpodge is also good for this You can use hot glue too, harder to shape though
|
# ¿ Oct 10, 2023 18:03 |
|
Colour me interested
|
# ¿ Oct 13, 2023 21:31 |
|
Nazzadan posted:Relatively sure, I think it's just evaporating very quickly. Tonight I topped it off before starting this Raptor and multiple times I had to use a syringe to grab some water from a clean glass and keep refilling the edges until it was standing water again. Yeah, you might want to invest in a humidifier next to your painting area. Your humidity must be really low/temps really high
|
# ¿ Oct 15, 2023 07:24 |
|
Ominous Jazz posted:painted my second mini today!! I use craft paint for my mini painting too. Well, I did buy some army painter paints recently I need to try but yeah. Some tips Shake the every-living bejeesus out of the primer. Once your arm gets tired, switch to your other arm and keep shaking lol. It should be at least 2-3 minutes of vigorous shaking Do several light coats of primer Shake the devil out of the craft paint bottles too Use a wet palette! You don't need to buy one, you can make one from non-waxed parchment paper, one of those longer and flatter takeout /meal planning containers, and some paper towel for a sponge. Or you can use a "swedish sponge cloth", they work better. Cut your sponge/folded up paper towels to match the base of the container, then cut the parchment paper to match too. Pour some water in, let it soak up, and then dump the excess, and you have a wet palette! Thin your craft paint right out, and mix it well too, on your new wet palette. Look up some YouTube videos from the big channels on how to use the craft paints. They'll have lots of other little tips and visual feedback on what to look for. Just search YouTube for "mini painting craft dollar store paint" or something and you'll find a bunch of videos Use a wash, and then finish with a dry brush. It'll add some easy lowlights and highlights and add so much more depth. Finish with a matte/satin brush on or spray topcoat if you find it's too dull.
|
# ¿ Nov 5, 2023 20:58 |
|
Ominous Jazz posted:
Great work! I think I would use black or dark grey as a base coat for the purple. Also, don't worry about zenithal highlighting with your primer with what you're using, unless! You use the zenithal highlight spray, take a picture from a few angles so you can use it as a lighting reference, then do a full primer coat that doesn't leave any spots without. For rich dark colours like the purple, sometimes it's better to not start with purple, but like dark grey with some purple mixed in, and then straight purple on top. E: oh, and it looks like you may have overly watered down your paints on some spots, you can see the paint running on the transition lines. You want to use a good sharp narrow tip but wide bodied brush, wet it but not be actually soaking, and you want the paint thinned to the right level. Also, make sure to give the craft paint some time between coats so you don't reactivate a previous coat. This video was just the first one I found that has something close to the ideal paint to water ratio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-0HoOh2oKs Mederlock fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Nov 8, 2023 |
# ¿ Nov 8, 2023 03:25 |
|
Professor Shark posted:Well it looks like someone who sold their army to be listed on on eBay already already tried out the scheme I was thinking of (with blue helmets instead of white) and, uh… Are the Tau just Short Kings or have Space Marines just totally hosed my perspective
|
# ¿ Nov 11, 2023 18:35 |
|
I have liquitex gloss, satin, and matte varnish and use them in every model. Having the different finishes let's you fine tune the final look for different materials.
|
# ¿ Nov 27, 2023 15:36 |
|
I have never and will never lick my brush I just keep a small ramekin cup thing with water at hand to dip my fingers in and then shape the tip if needed when twisting it gently while pulling backwards on the wet palette doesn't work
|
# ¿ Nov 28, 2023 02:52 |
|
tangy yet delightful posted:Eat rear end, Paint Fast
|
# ¿ Nov 28, 2023 14:56 |
|
I found a hilarious set of cheap minis on Amazon today https://www.amazon.com/Wildspire-Minatures-Miniatures-Accessories-Figurines/dp/B095J3PK5Y/
|
# ¿ Nov 30, 2023 00:12 |
|
chin up everything sucks posted:That goblin shaman needs to be moved to unspiration. The totem pole makes it racist as gently caress. I didn't even know that thread was a thing, yeah that post would've definitely belonged there. Yeah it's a dumb and racist sculpt, I'm not sure the company over in what I assume is China that makes that set would even aware of the connotation of that.
|
# ¿ Nov 30, 2023 01:39 |
|
You want the plain Jane no-name store brand parchment paper, not wax or non-stick paper. I think mine was called "vegetable parchment" . Even better if it explicitly says it's silicone free etc
|
# ¿ Dec 1, 2023 03:08 |
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uf-D6dCMhM4
|
# ¿ Dec 2, 2023 03:11 |
|
Are they proper stone pieces of petrified wood, or are they just super weathered and dried out chunks of dead wood?
|
# ¿ Dec 12, 2023 15:17 |
|
Harvey Mantaco posted:These tiny models next to pennies haunt me This 'hobby' makes me penniless
|
# ¿ Dec 14, 2023 01:53 |
|
Saint Celestine posted:
|
# ¿ Dec 17, 2023 05:48 |
|
Keep in mind you have to be particular when choosing pigment powders, many of them have special handling considerations such as needing very good ventilation or a respirator of some kind, possible heavy metals, and other issues like this. They have some really cool uses but like many oil paints or stuff like enamels , there are some health and safety factors to weigh first.
|
# ¿ Dec 18, 2023 04:05 |
|
Harvey Mantaco posted:I wish specific health risks and handling requirements were required to be more forward on packaging. I have some super toxic oil paint, major respiratory risk enamels and pigments and you'd never know if you were some kid picking stuff up for the first time without being told. I just checked and the enamels are the only one with a warning and it's just a combustion indication. Yeah it's kind of sickening to me that in workplace health and safety it's an ironclad requirement for manufacturers and distributors to label their products with all the potential hazards, the employer has a duty to inform and train and provide appropriate PPE/mitigations, etc., and yet in the consumer products world there is next to 0 indications whatsoever of the stuff they put in products. Probably was deemed " harmful to business interests and sales" to be forthright about the health risks and appropriate safety precautions on consumer goods and so they lobbied the governments to not have the same strict requirements to label as they would for a commercial customer.
|
# ¿ Dec 18, 2023 04:31 |
|
Kylaer posted:I've considered getting an airbrush for priming purposes but it seems like an awful lot of work to maintain it and I guess it's also a health hazard? Although I already wear an elastomeric respirator with P100/organic vapor cartridges when I'm in my project room due to the resin printer, unless I have the vat fully drained and all the resin secured in bottles, so I should already be adequately protected. If you're using a P100/VOC filter on a half mask you're already 10x further ahead on personal safety than the vast majority of hobbyists. Does your project room also have direct ventilation to the outdoors? And yeah, an air spray booth with a filtered fan(preferably venting outdoors ) is plenty for standard hobby acrylics in an airbrush
|
# ¿ Dec 19, 2023 08:13 |
|
So I got a $60 games workshop gift card and have no citadel products other their mini holders. What're the best products to spend $60-$100 on painting supplies there?
|
# ¿ Dec 25, 2023 23:09 |
|
tangy yet delightful posted:Get more mini holders for batch painting (not sure how many you already have). I got the small one and the large one for Christmas so far. I primarily do D&D minis, not down the warhams rabbit hole yet
|
# ¿ Dec 25, 2023 23:54 |
|
Thanks everyone, those sound like great suggestions and I'll grab what I can of those with what they have in stock
|
# ¿ Dec 26, 2023 07:29 |
|
Cease to Hope posted:Blood For the Blood God is a miracle and I've never found anything comparable (except that one Tamiya red whose name I can never remember) Oh dang, watched a video and that's a good effect, I'll have to get this too
|
# ¿ Dec 26, 2023 18:36 |
|
Oh, here's another good question. What does everyone here do for paint storage, in particular for setups that need to be stored up and packed away on a shelf in-between paint sessions? I don't have room for a full-time hobby desk, so I'd like to find a better way to store all my paint and things better than a reusable shopping bag.
|
# ¿ Dec 26, 2023 20:35 |
|
Eej posted:Makeup container with a lid. Oh yeah that sounds to be the right balance of price and suitability, thanks!
|
# ¿ Dec 27, 2023 00:51 |
|
Lostconfused posted:I think I'd be happy if I could develop an eye for light and shadow and color composition. 'Ere ya go https://ia902907.us.archive.org/28/items/Color_and_Light_James_Gurney_English/Color_and_Light_James_Gurney_English.pdf
|
# ¿ Dec 30, 2023 20:33 |
|
Do some slap chop esque speed painting on just one mini and see how you feel after that https://youtu.be/1GLAg4sIwS4?si=XZIdriAruYW_FrS_
|
# ¿ Jan 9, 2024 21:51 |
|
The AP Fanatic 50-set seems like the sweet spot
|
# ¿ Jan 15, 2024 16:00 |
|
Roller Coast Guard posted:Picked up a paint brush for more or less the first time in about eleven years to make some wasteland bases. Kinda pleased with how they came out. what'd you use for the rocks/raised bits?
|
# ¿ Jan 18, 2024 20:55 |
|
Lumpy posted:Thanks for all the Gesso -> Terrain info! I normally rattle can all my terrain, but given that it might not get above freezing until March and spraying outside and brining it in to dry gives Mrs. Lumpy migraines, this seems like a good brush-on way to go for all the Shatterpoint buildings and gantries I just printed. But I'm definitely going to try that PVA and black paint out as well. A tip I picked up from Black Magic Craft was to use black acrylic house paint for big terrain sets, etc. I haven't done it myself but it looks effective and makes sense! He also recommends a mix of the big bottle of mod podge and the huge bottles of black craft paint mixed as a primer for smaller terrain pieces too.
|
# ¿ Jan 25, 2024 15:36 |
|
Cardboard Fox posted:Glazing and airbrushing highlights sounds hard. I'm going to stick with basic layering with single highlighting for now. Spray primers should definitely be sprayed outside, and the primed bits left in a dry, warm, and well-ventilated space for a couple days to fully cure and off-gas. The tiny amount of dust you'll inhale from sanding mold lines is so infinitesimal that you literally don't need to worry at all. If it makes you feel more at ease, you could slap on a P95 and then do a quick wet-wipe of your workspace after you're done. Glue, well it depends on the glue, if you're using super glue with say, accelerant or baking soda or whatever, it certainly is a good idea to crack a window and door to allow for airflow across your workspace. I also leave my minis near a window for ~10 minutes after gluing to flash off most of their VOC's. As long as you're only using hobbyist/craft acrylic paints, there's basically 0 risk on that front. 20% of the effort in terms of PPE, patience, and process will get you something like 80-90% of the benefit, so I wouldn't sweat it. Enamel paints on the other hand are nasty as gently caress and I personally don't see the merit in using them for mini work, at least in a space without actual outdoor ventilation.
|
# ¿ Jan 26, 2024 06:28 |
|
Also, is it just me being a terribad rookie painter, or is it hard as gently caress to get white to lay down nice? I'm painting over a white on black zenithal, with barely adulterated titanium white and it's taken 3 coats just to get reasonably opaque coverage over everything. It's also hard to not clog up detail on a Small creature at 28mm D&D scale while trying to achieve this coverage
|
# ¿ Jan 26, 2024 06:30 |
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:man I never leave spray primed minis for more than 12 hours, let alone a couple of days. most of the time I spray around lunchtime and start painting 5 or 6 hours later. Cure time depends on the spray primer you use, your local humidity/temperature, how thin you applied it, etc. etc. I use the cheap 2X Rust-Oleum primer, they dry to the touch in a few hours but they smell for about a day and a half in my environment and remain a little sticky and tacky for 2-5 days. So if you're using a good quality primer meant for minis and live in a warm, dry climate, then yeah it can happen really fast. E: I should say you can paint over the Rust-Oleum stuff after a day or two as long as you don't directly handle the mini with your fingers much. The can straight up says it can take 5-7 for the primer to fully cure and strongly bind to plastic
|
# ¿ Jan 26, 2024 16:12 |
|
Issaries posted:
Well, I may have overstated how "sticky" it is, it's more that if you're holding the plastic for a prolonged time while trying to do something like adding some more greenstuff bits or otherwise manhandling the mini, it'll come off onto your hands. If you're just priming->painting, no it's totally dry to the touch and doesn't cause any issues.
|
# ¿ Jan 26, 2024 16:26 |
|
|
# ¿ May 22, 2024 00:43 |
|
Goons, I need your input and feedback on this mini that I just finished blocking in the base layer. I'm not really sure where to take it from here, this is the first mini I've painted in about 2 years and I've only painted a handful ever. I know the buzzwords like layering, dry brushing, washes, etc but I'm not sure which way to take it or what I need to improve on Thanks for your input
|
# ¿ Jan 27, 2024 09:18 |