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Joining the and posting some of my favourite figs (mostly Orks plus Oaths from the past year):
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 17:32 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:38 |
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XPost from the Oath thread, have some terrible pics!Zark the Damned posted:Early for me this month, but Oath Completed. Had trouble with lighting and levels were all over the place, so apologies for the worse than normal pics. Will be spending time this month assembling and prepping stuff to paint (whatever free time I have that isn't eaten by Nuclear Throne anyway...)
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2015 16:46 |
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That blending's looking pretty great! Where's that mini from?
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2015 14:32 |
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These guys rule. Please tell me you're getting an Eva-01 figure to go with them as a counts-as Knight
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2015 10:58 |
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nopantsjack posted:Anybody have any ideas on the best models for 40k hiveworld gangsters or civilians? I'm wanting to convert a genestealer cult with a hiveworld theme but I'm having trouble finding any good models for non-military humans. Chaos Cultists should do the part if you remove the stars. http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Chaos-Space-Marines-Cultists - they have an 'underground scavvy' look to them. If you're not bothered about sticking to GW stuff there's a bunch of options: Heresy miniatures have a gang set that are fairly close in style to the old Delaque stuff - http://heresyminiatures.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_15 - may make nice veterans but would get expensive for a larger army. If you're after a less uniform rabble, Hasslefree have a line of 'modern adventurers' with some guys who look like regular people who found some guns - http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?category=modern-%26%0D%0Apost%252dapoc~modern-adventurers You could probably adapt some of these guys into a militia too, though they're much more 'realistic modern age' than the above - http://www.wargamesfactory.com/webstore/dark-futures/apocalypse-survivors-men (there's another pack of women too).
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2015 14:34 |
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nopantsjack posted:Thanks those are totally perfect! Might actually get this poo poo done now! If you want some more variety there's a bunch of them in the 40k Dark Vengeance box, I think they have different sculpts fromt he separate set, plus you get a couple of leaders, a flamer and stubber (iirc). You may be able to pick them up separately from eBay or similar.
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# ¿ Mar 23, 2015 11:08 |
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In general, lots of thin coats tends to be the best way to do white. Another thing I have tried in the past with mixed results is to undercoat in white, apply another layer of white over the top, then thin down some light grey paint and use it as a wash, followed by further white highlights. Worked OK for large units of High Elves but wasn't quite good enough for individual characters.
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# ¿ Mar 26, 2015 13:46 |
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IG Tanks used to have a generic Track Sprue cast in black plastic which were used by both Chimera and Leman Russ (plus variants of both), maybe those ones? I don't recall there ever being actual rubber tracks though.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2015 00:29 |
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Totally old school, and also totally a pain in the rear end to fit without a misalignment somewhere The new versions gain in convenience what they lose in having a ton of spare tank wheels and tracks...
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2015 00:59 |
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Depending on how thick you want them, cocktail sticks or straightened paperclips may work and are pretty cheap. Brass rod is better but can be a bit pricy, though I did find some steel rods with a plastic coating a while back which were relatively cheap and sturdy (sadly the store that sold them closed down but you may be able to find similar somewhere).
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2015 23:59 |
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Certainly not worth those prices, even if they have added a bunch more stuff. It's not like it's a big art gallery or something! Next there'll be a charge to get into their stores.
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2015 16:30 |
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serious gaylord posted:This is phenomenal https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yHUSkyslMQ And I thought the comic style Gundam was the pinnacle of 3d 2d art...
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# ¿ May 7, 2015 12:46 |
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Oyumaru - http://www.metalclay.co.uk/oyumaru-instant-mold-moulding-compound/ (there's a bunch of versions, not sure which is the best for you)
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# ¿ May 22, 2015 16:41 |
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zVxTeflon posted:Painting goons what am I doing wrong here. I put a wash on this X-wing ship and its dirtying up the overall ship well enough but nothing is really collecting in the nooks and corners. Am i just watering it down too much? Im using about a 50:50 water/wash ratio. How do i get it to bring out the details more without making it too grey in the other areas any more? Sorry the pic sucks but my phone really hates focusing on anything close up Maybe try wash n wipe? Give it a thicker wash and while it's still wet wipe it off the top surfaces. I've used it for detail stuff before and had decent results, though nothing on the X-Wing scale.
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# ¿ May 28, 2015 10:37 |
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IIRC Cote d'arms still make Goblin Green. Not sure if it's an exact match to the GW one of old though.
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# ¿ May 29, 2015 10:20 |
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I think it's one of the subscription only White Dwarf figures from GW. Loving the hair and the rebellion-orange jumpsuit
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# ¿ Jun 15, 2015 10:27 |
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HardCoil posted:Thanks, it's supposed to say "AEGIS" though That dread is awesome and is what the Dreadknight should have looked like. Also you should go with Regis
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# ¿ Jul 15, 2015 13:46 |
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Army Painter Quickshade Wash. Strong or Dark Tone (try both and see which you prefer, they're both good). GW's Agrax Earthshade is their own replacement.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2015 12:24 |
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It really depends what you're after. The quickshade dip is kinda like a combination wash and gloss varnish in one so it's reasonable for protecting the paintwork afterwards, with their washes they dry matt but there's no built in protection. If you do use the dip it's better to brush it on with an old brush, and make sure to leave it to dry for at least a week before applying any varnish as it can interact weirdly.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2015 15:07 |
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Ran into with an issue with some spray today, army painter white. Not sure what caused it but the first half of the minis were fine, but when I flipped em over to do their backs the spray went weird and has left a very rough texture, almost like grit or something? I don't think it's an issue with humidity or whatever as I also sprayed some other stuff black and had no issues with that. Is my best bet to strip em and try again? Or will it smooth itself out if I just paint it as-is?
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2015 13:15 |
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Cooked Auto posted:I think I'm going to take back any idea of getting more ebay rescue projects because my first one is proving to be a sheer hell. Brown Dettol hasn't failed me yet. Not sure if it's in the rest of the EU but it's certainly here in the UK. I heard Fairy Power Spray used to be good but they changed the recipe so YMMV
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2015 15:51 |
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I've had no problems painting bones. I used Army Painter primer and no issues with tackiness at all. There was a post earlier about 'priming' them with some kind of wash? May want to look through a few pages to find it. Edit: it was in the Reaper thread, http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3540876&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=90#post449330389 Zark the Damned fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Aug 29, 2015 |
# ¿ Aug 29, 2015 00:08 |
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Not a viking posted:I want a mini of a muscular-looking wizard for Frostgrave (28 mm) where I want to field a Muscle Wizard. Any ideas for which range I can find one? If you want a far Eastern monk style muscleman you could go with some Ro-Kan minis from Bushido - http://www.bushido-thegame.com/ e.g. the dude on the left in the starter set (if you can get him separately, though some of the peasents would make great murderhobos in a themed warband): Also these fuckers would make awesome 'Elemental Hammer' build melee wizards:
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2015 22:53 |
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Maybe get some custom transfers made?
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2015 13:02 |
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Serotonin posted:Finished other than the shield which I can't do because my wife's not around to cut the decal out. Oh and needs some flock That dude's better than most of my stuff, you done good!
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# ¿ Sep 6, 2015 18:35 |
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Their stuff is pretty ace. I've been considering getting some for a while, but I haven't really worked with MDF before so am worried about the assembly and painting. That plus the thousands of unpainted minis I already have...
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2015 16:33 |
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Yeah, that needs to be a bare head under the helmet, doesn't work with the respirator in place.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2015 10:27 |
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Any UK Goons heading to Fiasco this year? I'm contemplating a visit, a meetup would be neat.
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# ¿ Sep 27, 2015 20:29 |
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SRM: Finding more ways to make the Taurox look good
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2015 14:16 |
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They'd work well as pretty big dragons in 28mm, though there are a few which have riders so you'd want to avoid them. I have a few, I'll try remember to take some scale shots this weekend.
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# ¿ Oct 15, 2015 22:57 |
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Not a viking posted:How big are the McFarlane dragons? Are they fit for 28 mm? I remembered to take some scale shots, hope these help. The small dudes in the front are a wood elf archer (kneeling) and the old metal Korhil, a GW Chariot base and a 6x5 movement tray for 20mm bases. I can take some more measurements if you'd like. These are all from Series 1 (though I think some were re-issued in different colours later). They all have some potential for posing, generally there's a joint in the head/neck and a limb or two. Eternal Clan - the tallest of the figures, mainly 'cause of the scenic ruined hut for a base. Has a rider in approx 35mm scale? Sorceror Clan Fire Clan - this pose would be awkward for a rider unless you're going for a 'dragon about to eat rider' look. Water Clan Komodo Clan - Probably the smallest one all round, could probably be rebased on a chariot base or similar without issue.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2015 13:35 |
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Pierzak posted:Anyone know where I can get crash test dummies in 28mm scale? I want to make a proxy army Possibly eBob's armatures could work here? They're humanoid and have little detail to them, could be smoothed out or sculpted up it you have the patience. http://www.ebobminiatures.com/products/tools.htm
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2015 22:23 |
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SRM posted:Time for more 'Ardboyz. I painted them in a more "uniform" style after painting every guy completely different in the last squad, and aside from the shot where you can see a bunch of them wearing the same pants it's not noticeable at all when they're all mobbed up. Once I divide the various boyz around various squads, they'll be a right and proper rabble without me going insane having to paint every guy distinctly and without batch painting. Not enough love for these guys, they look ace. A good use for all those spare UM transfers too! Reminds me I really oughta make more Ardboy mobz not they're no longer 0-1...
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# ¿ Oct 20, 2015 14:50 |
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Geisladisk posted:GW Nuln Oil (previously Badab Black) will take almost any shoddily painted minature from "terrible" to "good tabletop quality". If I could just buy a 20 liter barrel and just straight up dunk my plastic mans in it, I would. Army Painter Dark tone ink wash does the same. Strong tone is meant to be good too but I've not tried it myself yet.
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# ¿ Oct 23, 2015 17:52 |
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You can also employ the wash n wipe strategy of giving the model a thinned wash then wiping off the topmost layer on the panels etc. with a bit of tissue.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2015 16:49 |
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Airbrush goons, is http://www.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=11484 a decent one for a beginner? I'm not looking to do anything fancy, just use it for quickly applying base coats to larger minis and terrain.
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2015 13:12 |
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On the off chance people still use them, GW have started selling double size pots of shade for a little under double the old price: http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-Shade-2015 Plus a range of
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2015 18:46 |
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Those pots are the best. The soft plastic lids form a great seal, even when the lid's got a split in it. I have an old bleached bone pot from that era with a hosed lid but the paint's still fine. Bolter pots were the worst and rarely managed to keep the paint liquid for long. The flip top ones were less bad but the screw top ones were nightmares and I can't believe someone signed off on them.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2015 12:26 |
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SRM posted:After going through all those weedy grots, I thought I'd paint something with a little more oomph - finally got around to painting my second trukk! That's pretty drat awesome and I love that you've used both halves of the Taurox on different vehicles Any chance of a side by side comparison?
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# ¿ Nov 21, 2015 01:34 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:38 |
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I too have been painting Salamanders. Yours look better though. Zark the Damned posted:Oath Complete
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# ¿ Nov 22, 2015 19:14 |