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Does anyone make a set of UV Phosphorescent model paints? Bonus points if I can push them through an airbrush? I have ~*IdEaS*~
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Mar 16, 2015 16:06
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krushgroove posted:Possibly...I have one but the basket and surround are plastic, I'll have to do a test to see if the clean spirit reacts with it (probably not is my guess) and then see if it cleans it any quicker. I don't think it would be required at all for the isopropyl alcohol or meth spirit because it reacts so fast already. Maybe after a soak a few minutes in the machine would help loosen all the paint, though. My guess is that it won't do anything that scrubbing wouldn't, just a faster and with less mess (and probably more prone to free paint residue from details).
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Jul 6, 2015 16:34
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BULBASAUR posted:Gesso is ok. I used it in the past and it can work, but it takes detail away, is easy to remove with force (bad for weathering), and for large models like tanks good luck getting a smooth coat. Counterpoint: People love it for terrain, because you can just slather it over acres of foam and cardboard (and can't use spray primer if your piece has a foam component).
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Jul 7, 2015 12:04
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Cat Face Joe posted:are there any videos out there where you just straight up watch someone paint a mini? i dont even care if it's three hours long i just feel like i have some gaps to fill in and seeing someone better than me do it might help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=user?ThePaintingClinic
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Oct 23, 2015 14:27
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serious gaylord posted:Can leave ugly tide marks if not done quick enough. A drop or so of drying retarder should help this, right?
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Oct 27, 2015 17:37
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Cat Face Joe posted:i invested in decent brushes and flow improver over the weekend and got a chance to use them last night. it's like I've started a completely different hobby it is nuts how much better it makes it How are you using the flow improver? I've mixed a tiny, tiny amount of it with some water and matte medium in a dropper bottle to use for thinning, but I've also used straight matte medium or straight water, and I've never really been able to settle on something that works best. I'd like to kind of formalize my approach.
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Oct 29, 2015 16:17
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BULBASAUR posted:I add a few drops of it into paint on my palette along with a drop or two of water. Basically, I mix it as I go. 1:1-1:2 with the water, or even less than that?
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Oct 29, 2015 20:37
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Skarsnik posted:I use matte medium in place of water for thinning for 90% of my painting, which I have been told is wrong and does not work. So yeah, go figure Matte medium won't thin the consistency, but it changes the acrylic/pigment ratio so that when it dries it forms a thinner layer. I'm not 100% sure what the difference between glaze and matte medium is (presumably the latter is more 'matte') but I have found anecdotally that using glaze medium seems to provide better results when I'm trying to do blending. Flow improver, as stated, breaks up the surface tension so that the paint naturally flows into recesses better. Drying retarder (not mentioned) slows down how fast the paint dries, so that you can push it where you want more before it sets (which is very useful for washes). Water (distilled!) does all three of these things to varying degrees, although not quite as well as any one of them. You can get away with just water, I think -- the reason to use the additives mentioned above is if you want more of one of those properties than another.
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Nov 8, 2015 16:45
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signalnoise posted:I'm taking this a step further back. On the left is just base coat. On the right, I have shaded relatively recessed areas, highlighted the raised areas, and drybrushed a little. The basecoat on the left doesn't have good or even coverage. Highlighting and shading won't fix that so it will still look messy. For that color I'd also probably prefer painting over white rather than black. e: and seconding basecoating your base color instead of your highlight color. You can coat in your highlight color and then hit it with a brown ink wash, which might work really well, but you still need really good coverage on that base coat. If you are thinning your paints, you might be 1) thinning them too much 2) using too much water/not enough medium (causing the pigments to be stretched too thin) 3) not doing enough coats to fill in the gaps (which you need to do if you're thinning a fair bit but not using high pigment density paint) Hubis fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Nov 8, 2015 |
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Nov 8, 2015 16:48
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signalnoise posted:How do you get good coverage while not putting too much in detail areas and muddying them? If I thin any more than I do then the paint just seeps into detail areas and away from raised parts. I'd suggest making sure you're adding Matte Medium (you'll get better coverage for the same amount of thinning) or doing multiple coats (it won't pool because each layer will dry before you do the next coat).
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Nov 8, 2015 17:13
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Chill la Chill posted:Do you guys use distilled water for your water cups too? Just realized I never used it and only ever use it for my water/retarder/flow improver dropper bottles. But, I do tend to add straight water from my water cup to thin things more or to wash between blending (I don't have the dexterity to use two-brush blending with one hand) so it might affect the paint's behavior just a bit. I started to after having noticed some home-made washes tended to leave an unsightly white ring at the 'tide marks', which I'm guessing is calcium/mineral deposits from the tap water. I don't bother in my cleaning cup (though I have started adding a drop of "Jet Dry" detergent to it, which sort of acts as a flow improver and helps clean the paint off the brush a bit more). I fill a spare dropper bottle with distilled H2O now, which is also better because I can control how much I'm adding a bit more easily. I also have a dropper bottle full of "Gunk" that's roughly 50% distilled water, 40% matte medium, 10% flow improver. Then I just add a number of drops to the paint based on how thinned i want it.
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Nov 8, 2015 19:41
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krushgroove posted:I'll do an effortpost when I get the time, but basically compressors are like airbrushes - you get what you pay for. The cheap Chinese compressors without tanks will overheat and eventually break, when depends on how much you use them. You can extend the life of them by paying more for one with a tank but again they will eventually break. The companies that sell them online buy them by the containerload and don't bother to do repairs on them, they just scrap the bad ones or the returns and send out a new boxed one. These are the ones that are $/£80-100. How's this for a compressor? http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-S...wata+compressor I can definitely afford to spend more than $100, but low $200 is probably my max.
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Nov 9, 2015 14:55
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Hixson posted:Just a heads up guys: What, in your experience, is so brutal about it? I bought one last year and haven't gotten a chance to use it yet (Moving, life, etc.) but knowing what it's weaknesses are going into it now would be great.
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Nov 13, 2015 16:18
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Bistromatic posted:More 10mm Infantry. This scale is quite fun and fast to paint, three and a half days for twenty special forces guys and twelve suits from primer to finish. The very first batch of dropzone infantry was a bit wonky but i like these and the praetorians a lot. I absolutely love well-painted 6mm/10mm infantry. It really makes everything better by locking in the scale while at the same time making it feel just as detailed and vivid as 15mm/28mm.
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Nov 17, 2015 19:20
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PantsOptional posted:Perfect, this was the step I had been missing. Thank you. I have really fallen in love with off-color washing lately. I'm painting a gaggle of kobolds and goblins from an old Bones order -- I based them all yellow, and then washed the Goblins with green and the Kobolds with a red (Vallejo flesh-shade) and they both have this great hue shift to the shading. It's really helping me to understand how to incorporate color into my shading more effectively, I think.
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Nov 17, 2015 23:51
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signalnoise posted:New attempt, took long enough to get around to it Looks solid (though I think you missed some red skin on his right elbow there). Are you doing metallics or NMM? For metallics, I tend to do those first before any other basecoats at all because my techinque involves a fair bit of drybrushing, and that way I don't have to worry about sloppy overpainting. That's a minor tweak, though, it looks like a solid base coat otherwise.
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Dec 7, 2015 00:43
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Z the IVth posted:I've been flogging the technique in this thread for ages but only Avenging Dentist seems to have given it a go. I think I've also heard of people using baking soda for this?
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Dec 18, 2015 21:05
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BULBASAUR posted:Two days ago I was cleaning minor mold lines on a resin model using an xacto chisel. It slipped and sliced the tip of my thumb nearly off. Blood squirting everywhere I ran into the kitchen to disinfect, apply pressure, and keep the bleeding to the sink. I broke out in a cold sweat and suddenly I had no idea what was going on because nothing made sense I was cold and alone. I was about to panic when I woke up on my tile floor, room spinning, blood everywhere. Later I learned I'd also given myself a minor concussion and hurt my left elbow. Three days had gone by. The blood... it wasn't yours.
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Dec 19, 2015 06:06
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Are there goon approved pinks? I checked out the op for the recommended paint list and didn't see anything to that effect. We've decided on a pink/cyan scheme for an Everblight army and my old tentacle pink pot won't last. have you tried using metallic medium?
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Jan 3, 2016 01:08
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