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Pastry Mistakes posted:Casting If you're willing to invest time into something, start looking at resin SLA printers. You can find print files on Thingiverse which will save you some time.
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Sep 12, 2019 13:42
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I work best with deadlines. I enjoy the results of painting but not necessarily the process, so having a goal in mind is very important to me. Usually it's NOVA, although I did a lot more last year than this year (studying for my qualifying exam kind of took over my life). Max Wilco posted:Warning: long, rambling post ahead... Airbrushing will certainly take the pain out of basecoating an entire army, though as you stated, there is upkeep on the brush. However, you're going to be saving a ton of time when you get the process down. One of the things you mention is that you're really hating is edge highlighting, so here's a hot take: just don't do it. If you hate it that much, don't bother. Do your shading and some highlighting and call it a day. Your BAs will look more than tabletop ready, so don't kill yourself doing something you hate. Bonus tip: once you start airbrushing, do some preshading/zenthal highlighting and edge highlighting will be superfluous. Something else to consider: If you're feeling burned out, put the BAs down and pick something else up. Just look for a model that you think looks cool and go at it. I'm doing a lot of Warhammer Underworlds stuff lately, and it's a nice palate cleanser from Epic and Warmaster, which is what I'm usually painting. It is also a great opportunity to play with Contrast paints, since I'm dealing with a lot of organic forms. Speaking of Contrasts, they're nice to play with, and some are definitely time savers (flesh colors, Snakebite Leather) but others are so-so in my opinion and are really just thin paints that don't speed up your process at all (BA Red, Cygor Brown.) They are not necessarily a huge time-saver, and like any other tool, you need to experiment with them and learn how they will help your process. Do not expect them to be a magic bullet, and I would avoid them on any sort of flat surfaces (Marine armor, for example.) In your post, you mention that red is a "hard color to paint." I don't find that to be the case - what is your process? Are you using the proper primer/base color? What reds are you using? Do you have a photo? There are a ton of great painters here - I'm sure someone can offer you some advice.
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Sep 13, 2019 13:03
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Xposting from the WHU thread.berzerkmonkey posted:Got some decent pics of noted 60's do-wop band, Garrek and the Reavers
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Sep 13, 2019 18:35
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I'm gonna shill for the GW water cup - you will never mistake it for a drinking device. It also has the added bonus of a wide base and narrow top, so it's next to impossible to knock over. I like it a lot more than my old water mug or jar.
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Sep 13, 2019 20:14
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Nerd cemetery is going to be a Superfund site.
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Sep 13, 2019 23:56
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 Before the perm.
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Sep 14, 2019 01:16
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Hixson posted:Put some paint on a couple Zone Mortalis tiles this weekend: with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Did not post here for years, but I did not stop with painting. Been adding more and more figures to my BB gobbos, as well as doing other BB figures (and other non BB figures not pictured this time!).
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Sep 24, 2019 13:40
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Jetfire posted:Yeah, I've been doing the wash and scrub before painting. I'll try Krylon or AP next, thanks thread. IMO AP paints are inconsistent garbo. I don't know if you're just looking for a color match, but I'm not sure if the AP is going to be smooth enough for Contrasts, if that's your ultimate goal.
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Sep 25, 2019 17:04
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Electric Hobo posted:Yeah, I figured that I'd be wearing a mask just in case, but the pigments should be sucked into the filter. I don't vent outside. You'll be fine. Just make sure you change out your filter on a regular basis.
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Oct 1, 2019 15:35
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You can thin the paint opacity, but you can't really increase it. if you can actually see your base color through three layers, unless you're glazing or something, your paint is way too thin. Metallics are affected by the color under them though, so maybe that's what your seeing? Like Leadbelcher over black is going to look different than if you put it over white.
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Oct 2, 2019 16:57
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Stynylrez either needs to be thinned A LOT or you switch to Vallejo. I have issues with Stynylrez to the point where I now just grab the Vallejo, add a couple of drops of flow improver, and spray away for an hour or two without issue.
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Feb 17, 2022 21:38
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Cinara posted:Biggest thing I notice with primer when spraying more than one model is dry tip, keep that clear and it solves a ton of common issues. Constant modulation is also a good thing to pick up. it's a literal paint in the trigger finger, but going full throttle is a great way to run into clogs and dry tip constantly. Yeast posted:99% of airbrushing work can be accomplished with a .4 needle. I was using a cheapo Master with a .4 the other night, and was picking out zenithal details pretty drat well. It's a matter of controlling your paint and pressure and being cognizant of how your paint is coming out of your brush. I've tried a .2 in that (admittedly not good) brush and have problems shooting ink, let alone paint. a .3 or above is definitely sufficient for 99% of painters out there, unless you're like Marco who can paint facial details with his.
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Feb 17, 2022 22:27
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I think the problem with stynylrez is that it can be inconsistent. I'm wondering if different batches have different viscosities or if a bottle that's been sitting around for say a year might start to lose some liquid, becoming thicker and harder to spray. I mean mine seems okay? But the other night I just could not get it to go through an airbrush at all. Again though, I had zero problem with Vallejo.
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Feb 17, 2022 23:03
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Yep, Badger had switched suppliers for one ingredient used in Stynylrez, and the quality went to poo poo for a year or two during Covid. Increased clogging, and a very pebbly texture when applied. They've switched back to the original supplier of the ingredient, and people are reporting fresh batches of Stynylrez are back to their former greatness. Interesting - good to know. IncredibleIgloo posted:There is actually edible airbrush paint that is amazing for doing cake decorating, so you can eat that. That being said, I might have a seperate airbrush just for that. I know you're being facetious, but it's not the toxicity of what you're spraying, it's the fact that lungs aren't made to handle particulates. Even in edible paints, there is particulate matter that is going to cause damage to your lungs if inhaled. Airbrushes also ensure the particulates are extremely fine, which means your built in particulate filters (i.e. nose hairs) aren't gonna stop them. Even non-toxic acrylics are bad for you to inhale - people freak out about airbrushing oils, but have no problem snorting acrylics in a poorly ventilated environment. Also, you don't necessarily need to vent your airbrush station outside - that's more for odor control more than anything else. If you have a decent fan and good filter that is replaced on the regular, you should be good.
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Feb 22, 2022 14:59
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Pierzak posted:Why would the filter matter if it's getting piped outside the window anyway? Or are you talking about the breathing mask filter? Your airbrush station filter. If you're just blowing outside, then I suppose you don't need a filter, but you're going to potentially be blowing wet paint out your window to collect on your sill or whatever is out there in the path.
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Feb 22, 2022 16:27
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks! I was wondering how to build the Valkyrie and not back myself into a corner with the hull interior, but at the same time, I really prefer to build and then prime and paint. Might not be a popular suggestion, but Army Painter paints aren't good. They can be very inconsistent, I've had two cans of primer literally blow up (they were stored indoors, thankfully in a box), and the consistency, in my experience, can be grainy. If you don't want to go GW (mostly good paints, but the pots suck) take a look at Vallejo. As for sets, I would also recommend against them for the most part - there will always be colors you don't use, so you'll waste money and paint (I bought a Vallejo set 15 years ago, and still haven't ever used some paints); and no set is probably going to fully cover what you want to do. I would figure out what colors you need for your specific project (don't use too many! try to keep your scheme simple, unless you're painting for a competition) and go from there. Sets seem like a great idea, but unless you really like to get into the weeds, they wind up costing you a lot of money for fringe colors.
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Feb 23, 2022 19:24
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Bad Faith Effort posted:Army Painter is absolutely just Rustoleum\Krylon though Aranan posted:I've used a few cans of wraithbone spray primer and it has always worked really well for me. I know it's a premium over grabbing a can at Home Depot or whatever, but it's always worked well for me, I'm in the game store more than Home Depot, the price difference isn't extreme, and I am quite lazy. Wraithbone is probably the only GW primer that I would recommend over Krylon. It's just too good of a base for almost everything, albeit extremely expensive. But yeah, if you've got an airbrush, black with a zenithal white will do just about the same thing, along with also giving you a nice shading layer.
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Feb 28, 2022 14:01
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Jeff Wiiver posted:Speaking of red primer, I'm about to paint my first Ork jet, and naturally I'm painting it red. I've seen some talk about red being a tough color to spray down on bare plastic. Should I do a black base first then the red on top? Yeah, if you're using rattlecan, you're probably not going to be able to spray thin enough for the prime white/black/whatever to make a difference, and you're very likely to obscure all of your detail, since rattlecans aren't finesse tools. If airbrush, you can either do what Bucnasti recommends, or you can prime with a red-brown (Vallejo makes one) and just paint on top of that. If you're not going to do modulation or any sort of lighting effect using white on black, I would avoid straight red over straight black, since it's going to be tough for that red, since it's semi-transparent and will allow the undercoat to show through. If you spray direct on black, especially with an airbrush, you're going to get a duller, maybe even muddy, red. Muted isn't a bad thing, but if you want to do any weathering or anything, it's usually better to start bright and tone down.
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Feb 28, 2022 20:20
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A lot of people use rattlecans like a shovel, though, because they don't know how to properly distance the can or move when spraying. And, tbf, rattlecans aren't great for zenithal - they work, but you really have to be in an ideal location (like a garage) with next to no wind where you can do quick, controlled dustings. If you have that, awesome - use it to your advantage. Most people I know of really aren't that lucky though. It's also dependent on the product - Krylon works great for me, and Rustoleum seems to go on way too heavy and obscures everything every time I've used it. But again, I'm just speaking from my personal experience.
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Feb 28, 2022 21:41
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Airbrushing this long does seemingly make the tip of my pointer finger completely numb, so I'm wondering if I should just get that Iwata airbrush with the trigger instead, and if that would help what seems to be some "median nerve" issues I'm noticing. GreenBuckanneer posted:I do still want to try loading the airbrush up with some watered down metallics and using that to do the base coat of some of these models because that seems like it'd be a good use of time.
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Mar 9, 2022 13:58
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Where do you guys like to buy them? Mini Market seems out of stock of everything except "Jet Exhaust" and "Gold" which might be fine for necron base coating I got mine from Amazon, because I was in a rush. It was about a buck more than the place Cinara recommended, but shipping was free. Eej posted:Fwiw the Metal Color line tints extremely well with acrylic ink. Either mix it in directly or spray on top and you can get a metallic of any colour you want.
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Mar 15, 2022 14:08
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 12:48 |
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Verisimilidude posted:
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Aug 11, 2023 21:18
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