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Anyone have an opinion on the Armory black primer? It looks like the P3 primer is currently out of stock everywhere. Privateer Press doesn't even have it as unavailable in their store, it just doesn't exist.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2017 15:12 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 20:56 |
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Geoff Zahn posted:Sup fellow Chicagoon. Yeah I just buy mine out in the 'burbs. It sucks and I forgot about that when I moved in to the city. If you are near the Edgewater neighborhood I know Chicagoland Games will prime your models for you and/or provide a space where you can prime. I've never taken the Dojo up on the primer use, plus getting primed minis home seems like kind of a pain even though I'm not that far away.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2017 16:04 |
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Rhaegar posted:What's the best grey spray primer around for the price? Thinking of spraying my new Tzeentch guys gray instead of white or black. I buy Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 from eBay for my grey priming (I'm US though) and it's fantastic stuff.
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2017 21:06 |
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P3's Thamar Black is a good black-black and their Coal Black is an amazing blueish-black that washes dark well.
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2017 13:38 |
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I like building more too, though that might be because I've done more building than painting, but I also find cleaning mold lines and flash stressful because so often (with PP minis at least) it's hard to tell when you've done enough to qualify as cleaned and I hate the lack of clarity there.
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2019 12:49 |
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Does anyone have a good trick for keeping track of the polarity of really small magnets? I'm working with .062" magnets and they're really difficult manage. At one point I tried to paint one side of them, but that doesn't work and I'm not sure they were actually all the same polarity anyway. I'm used to working with 1/8" magnets which are large enough that I can check them as I go but these tiny fuckers are too hard for me to keep track of like that, and ultimately I'm going to need to keep these consistent/compatible across multiple models.
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# ¿ Sep 27, 2020 19:55 |
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Does anyone here use makeup brushes for drybrushing and if so, what shape do you recommend?
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# ¿ Sep 30, 2020 21:14 |
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At least one of the Heavy Warjacks, the Nemesis, is resin and metal.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2020 23:12 |
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I said come in! posted:I didn't, but should really do that for the other two factions. I've got a Scourge mostly magnetized and it was really easy, the surfaces drill out easily and the connection points all seem solid. I just need to build a rig of some sort to be able to keep the polarities of the tiny-rear end magnets straight, especially since all the Warjacks will need to be cross-compatible.
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# ¿ Nov 28, 2020 06:02 |
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Verisimilidude posted:I also picked up a Gnarls Green from P3 and it seems ok. Better than AP but not quite what I was hoping for. P3's greens are really good in my experience.
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2021 16:01 |
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Strange-ish question: I bought one of those battery-powered airbrushes last week after I discovered their existence in the thread and I'm buying the various supplies for it (cleaner, airbrush thinner, the Badger Wyldstallyns primer three-pack) but I want to also get a bottle of airbrush paint to start playing with; what's a good paint for babby's first airbrushing? I've been looking at Vallejo and a few others but I really just want to find one that's user-friendly, I honestly don't care about the color, just one that needs a shake and a little thinner to be able to make a mess of some paper.
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# ¿ May 3, 2021 21:43 |
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Seraphim Sepia is also gorgeous over golds and brasses in addition to all the other great things it does.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2021 02:58 |
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Do Badger airbrushes have their own valve for connecting to hoses? I bought a Patriot 105 (two days ago of course) and it occurs to me that the hose I have from my rechargeable compressor might not actually fit it without some sort of convertor. I haven't been able to get a clear answer from the Google on this.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2021 22:24 |
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I have the NoName and as near as I can tell it works really well. I say as near as I can tell because it seems like the airbrush that came in the kit I got from Spray Gunner is so cheap that it's non-functional. I suppose it's possible that I'm so inept at using it that I have rendered it useless but I'm feeling increasingly confident that it was not user error that is to blame for it completely not working. In any event it certainly pumps air and hopefully does so well enough that, with a proper airbrush, it will actually paint too.
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2021 05:42 |
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You'll also want to make sure that you don't stab yourself in the finger with the end of a guitar string because that poo poo itches like a motherfucker.
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# ¿ Jan 6, 2022 16:50 |
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What's the go to adhesive for metal minis these days. I'm getting the itch to get crafty again, in no small part to the massive loving backlog of Warcaster minis I have, all which are metal. I'd been using Loctite which is... ok except when it's just absolutely not.
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# ¿ May 22, 2022 23:37 |
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Spanish Manlove posted:CA superglue. I like the gorilla glue with the blue cap, but but generic stuff with the purple cap from bob smith industries or whatever is also good. Well that's handy since that's the Loctite I've already got on hand, the Ultragel Control specifically.
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# ¿ May 23, 2022 00:47 |
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Cat Face Joe posted:If it's older than six months just get new stuff. Yeah, I've got an unopened bottle I'll crack open for the metals.
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# ¿ May 23, 2022 02:10 |
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GreenBuckanneer posted:That rotational mixer looks rad as hell, tell us how you like it. Yeah, please report back on that.
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2022 18:39 |
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Cinara posted:I am curious what makes a vortex mixer not work for your space, they don't take up very much physical space or make much noise. I mean, that wand mixer looks like it's just a whole lot smaller and thus easier to store than a vortex mixer would be. That's certainly the appeal it holds for me as someone without a permanent painting station.
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2022 21:23 |
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Sometime this week I'm finally going to be breaking out the airbrush and mini air compressor I bought last year for my first ever go at priming and basecoating some minis. I've got the Badger primer (not even going to try to spell that poo poo) and presuming that I don't have one of the dreaded bad batches of it, how long should I wait for it to dry before basecoating? I'm used to rattlecan priming and that I usually wait overnight before I start painting, but I'm assuming/hoping that airbrushed primer will be ready to go well before that.
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2022 18:27 |
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So I tried airbrushing for the second first time tonight and it was a loving mess. I'm using a Badger Patriot 105 and after I got everything set up, I put some airbrush thinner in the cup and it started dripping out the front. I added a little primer, tried to backfill it and it made a mess but that's on me, I pushed the trigger down and it started spraying immediately. What I think I needed to do was loosen the chuck and push the needle all the way out, that stopped the dripping but it's now sticking out so much, I worry about it getting bumped and bent out of shape or stabbing my fingers when I try to backfill. Is there something obvious that I'm missing?
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2022 02:01 |
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I will say that my second try, after pushing the needle all the way forward, went much better. I've got plenty to learn about using the drat thing, but I'm definitely at the point where any other problems will be user error/the limitations of a rechargeable air compressor. I also learned that the light in my dining room is absolutely insufficient for this because black primer onto grey plastic should not be as difficult to track as it was for me, but I have LED lights I can move into position next time.
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2022 04:23 |
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Paragon8 posted:it might be worth just doing a session practicing doing lines and shapes on a paper towel to get a feel for the basic mechanics and how the spray changes with distance and different pressure. That had been my intention, I bought a sketchbook just for that too, but I'm excited to get back to painting after a few years off and so I didn't want to waste that momentum and priming has enough of a margin for error that I jumped right in. I'm glad I did too and I'm excited to do more tonight, once I get the trigger back in place, that is, the fucker popped out and I wasn't having any luck getting it to stay back in, but there are plenty of videos that will help me figure out what small thing I'm doing wrong there. I'm terribly jealous of people who have permanent painting stations.
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2022 12:32 |
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On the one hand, this is not much to brag about all things considered but on the other hand, hell yeah look at this! I've primed and basecoated with an airbrush for the first time! My attempts to zenethal basecoat with Vallejo steel and then silver didn't really work but that's really just hair-splitting. I definitely need to get the hang of thinning the paints, I think I have them a little overthinned since I was getting some light splattering but that could also be me not having great airflow control and/or distance feel and it's not helped by not having an air compressor that I can adjust the PSI on. Still, for a first attempt I feel very good about what I have achieved.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2022 02:48 |
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a fatguy baldspot posted:Looks fantastic! Grey Knights are the original ELITE elites so I will always love them. Thanks! It's my Grey Knight Kill Team, my first ever GW models at all actually. Having such an easy paint scheme is going to spoil me.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2022 03:16 |
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I bought some 3D printed bases for some Rubric Marines and I'm having the hardest time getting my test model to stay glued to the base. It had been suggested to me that the bases should be washed before I try to glue figures to them but that runs contrary to what I've heard about 3D printed stuff. Not that I object to giving them a quick wash but not having to do so would be even easier but also I've never had this sort of trouble before. Is there a trick to this or should I just expend the slight effort to wash the drat things?
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# ¿ Oct 9, 2022 23:49 |
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Spanish Manlove posted:What kind of glue are you using? Loctite Gel, which is what I use for pretty much everything. It's a slightly older bottle but has been gluing plastic onto plastic without any problem. It does look like I've managed to get the thing glued onto the base finally, looking at it, I'm wondering if the problem is that the rough texture of the base wasn't giving me solid enough contact. Maybe a little bit of Vallejo earth texture would do the trick to bridge the gap for the rest of them.
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2022 00:31 |
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Spanish Manlove posted:Yeah I've noticed some issues with loctite gel with exactly this scenario. Fiddly bits like hands-forearm connections or small feet to bases will have issues with that stuff. If you can afford it and put together enough models to personally justify it, I suggest keeping a few different types of glues around. There's some connections that gel glue works incredibly with that thick super glue or plastic cement just wont work with. Also vice versa. It's just a matter of keeping a variety of tools around so you can have the right one for the job. What other kind of glue would you recommend?
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2022 01:03 |
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Speaking of airbrushing and varnish what's a good airbrushable matte varnish? Bonus points for one that doesn't require precision PSI since I have one of those rechargeable USB air compressors that can't be adjusted.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2022 03:14 |
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm either done, or close to done with Munitorum Armoured Containers How did you glue the containers? I have had the worst loving luck trying to get the first one of them to actually take glue and hold its shape long enough for it to take. I've tried Loctite and Tamiya Extra Thin and the fucker just keeps collapsing.
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2023 05:06 |
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I have not tried rubber bands yet, I'll have to give that a go. I think this first crate might just be hosed though, there's so much failed glue on the edges, I don't think it will ever hold.
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2023 05:19 |
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The worst thing about Vince is that he pronounces "decal" like a loving madman. I don't know if it's an Ohio thing or a bit but it sounds insane.
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2023 15:49 |
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Lumpy posted:He does it on purpose as a joke IIRC. That does make it slightly better.
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2023 15:51 |
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Space Friend posted:Just finished up the primary paint job on my death jester. Wanted to do an Amon from FFXIV type of color scheme and I think it works for the most part Needs a gigantic gently caress-off hat.
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# ¿ Jan 30, 2023 00:07 |
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Nazzadan posted:xpost from 40k thread, the pile of built but not painted minis is now empty Is that legal?
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2023 20:10 |
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Ez8 posted:This is the type of thing I aspire to, but also makes me want to quit. There's the loving thread title.
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2023 17:53 |
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I use two Talenti gelato containers for my dirty water and my metallic water. I like them because they are clear and I can see easily at a gland if I need to change the water. Then I have a third container of clean/rinse water. When I rinse the brush it goes into dirty water pot first and then into the rinse water pot, if needed. I use one Talenti jar and one glass jar from the Trader Joe's eggplant veggie spread.
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# ¿ Jun 9, 2023 03:17 |
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Winklebottom posted:They said kweh in FFIX and since that's the best one that's what I'm going with It's "kweh" in XIV too.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2023 20:42 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 20:56 |
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What Virtual Russian is talking about feels fundamentally the same as why the WGA and SAG-AFTRA are on strike. It's not a perfect analogy but for them, recasting is equivalent to a studio paying an actor $200 to scan their body and use it forever without further remuneration. Also, when an artist, or anyone else for that matter, tells you something is harmful to their field, it's rear end in a top hat behavior to tell them they're wrong or belittle their concerns.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2023 17:39 |