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DJ Dizzy posted:It's not super-pretty, only got a 5 in painting score. (On a 0-5-10-15-20 scale) I mean, that isn't the most fantastic paint job ever or anything, but it's pretty clean looking. The competition must've been pretty amazing for you to only end up in the 25th percentile.
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Mar 21, 2015 02:54
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Post 9-11 User posted:I was admiring your army in the other thread, 5 is an absurdly low score. I agree. Those other armies are really nice, granted, and they're probably better than yours (and anything of mine for that matter) but not four times as good (I'm assuming they got 20).
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Mar 21, 2015 09:02
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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:Yay. Use a container with a lid. It's not toxic but it does have an odor. You want something that you can close with a good seal and leave for however long it takes. As for how long that is, you can check it as often as you like but there's no reason not to leave it overnight at least, unless you are super desperate to begin (re-)painting.
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Mar 22, 2015 02:54
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Crossposting my oath:  
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Mar 22, 2015 21:03
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:I don't think I've seen a red dragon with sedate colors on parts of its body like that before. It's a really nice effect. Almost like he's wearing khaki gators and his wing membranes are stained with ash and smoke. The inspiration was the artwork/description from the 3.0 Monster Manual. I can't scan it and this is the only picture I can find of it on GIS:  Since the sculpt obviously isn't a faithful reproduction of that style of red dragon, I had to adapt some stuff. For example, the way the mini was sculpted made it seem more natural to have the underbelly color flow down onto the limbs, so that's why that's different. Brother-Captain Danielus Craigus
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Mar 22, 2015 21:48
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mr. stefan posted:So quick question about paints, I finally have some free time coming up and I want to paint my Retribution in red/white knights Templar scheme, and I want to stick to mostly airbrushing for it, so I picked up some minitaire nebula red off of amazon among other things. Problem is, now that I actually have the bottle in-hand it looks a lot more of a burgundyish than the bright red it looked on the color chart. Will doing a white base coat help bring it up, or should I shoot for using a different red entirely? I don't know about using a white base coat, but it's worth noting that sometimes paints look different in the bottle/liquid than they do when dry on a model. Usually in my experience it tends to make them less bright, not more, but do a test paint if nothing else.
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Mar 23, 2015 05:47
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Make your own airbrush thinner at home from squirrel blood, save even more money.
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Apr 2, 2015 23:55
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Floor wax professors HATE HIM! This goon found a chemical-free solution for airbrushing using this one weird tip. e: If you people don't use these under your air hoses then I don't even want to look at you. 
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Apr 3, 2015 04:21
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Throbbing blob posted:Painted a small guy today. Probably my best work in 15mm yet, but unfortunately I didn't succeed in taking the best pics of him. I need better lighting. I thought that was a nice looking paint job even when I hadn't read your post and thought it was 28mm. 
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Apr 4, 2015 22:59
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The Sisko posted:Decided to work on some Pathfinders that have been sitting on my shelf for some time. For some reason the image makes them look a lot more blue than they actually are. Got some detials to still do but I liked how these guys came out as they were some first attempts at using my airbrush to glaze. Comment and criticism welcome. Paint job is good but I can't get over the impression that the one in the middle is about to perform a crotch chop.
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Apr 8, 2015 03:38
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I use Reaper by default, except for silver metallics which are VMA and washes which are Army Painter inks where possible. I've got a number of other Vallejo and a couple of P3 that I also break out when they have a color that looks closer than Reaper for what I want.
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Apr 15, 2015 00:00
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How do I know if I'm worthy in the Emperor?
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Apr 30, 2015 02:16
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Throbbing blob posted:Yeah thanks but apparently it's impossible to find a non-titty mini when you search for 28mm woman/lady/princess miniature. Not sure what's a titty mini in your book. It might be hard to find one that doesn't look like a C+ cup but I found a few that don't seem to turn the exploitation up to 11. http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/dress/latest/02582 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/dress/latest/02391 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/dress/latest/02793 None of those is a proper wedding dress but they might be close enough to work with. Couldn't find a mounted princess type miniature by Reaper. There are a few nice female adventurers/fighters on horseback but I dunno if you want to theme your wedding that way !amicable posted:It's all good. I think I can use some cheap photo frame glass and some etching solution to get myself a sheet. This is like if a WM jack stepped into the hair metal era of 40k. Which is to say it owns.
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May 7, 2015 08:42
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Z the IVth posted:This comment comes from a time where everyone and their uncle did that hideous S-E (sky-earth) NMM. God that was hideous. I find that this look works decently well when it's something tiny that your brain immediately recognizes is supposed to be a mirrored surface, like a visor or something, and drops off in effectiveness sharply the more the artist tries to milk it.
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May 8, 2015 18:34
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Oath thread crosspoast:     The sorceress's face and hand look so crappy because the auto-white-balance doesn't leave the dark skin shading showing very well in those spots and I'm not good enough to fix it.
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May 25, 2015 04:51
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BULBASAUR posted:The lighting is too dark to see the depth of color and details, but I really dig the color choice you used for these guys. They look like an old painting and the weathering rocks Dang, thanks. Getting compliments from you on weathering is amazing. I know I don't have the greatest lighting setup, but on my screen it seems like I can see the colors and shading perfectly well except where they're actually in shadow, which is a minority of the scene--does it really look that dark to you?
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May 25, 2015 21:41
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berzerkmonkey posted:I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach? I've seen the book and there are several different Infinity models that he walks you through, not just Joan. There are also some sections on general techniques.
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May 27, 2015 02:03
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Indolent Bastard posted:proppa, but it needs a big zoggin gun on the top. A BZG 9000?
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May 29, 2015 10:40
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1) Does anyone have any advice for getting separated VMA paints (Gold and Bright Brass, if it matters) to mix back up? When I say separated, I mean the pigment appears to have congealed into a glob in the bottle, like what you'd expect from a mostly dried out paint except there's still plenty of liquid medium in the bottle. When I poke a rod in there, it feels like chewing gum. Adding an agitator bead and shaking the poo poo out of them doesn't seem to have helped. 2) In general, have people's experiences with VMA golds been complete poo poo, or did I just get two bad bottles? Even before this separation occurred, they were really thin and poorly covering, even by the standards of golds. VMA silvers are an absolute dream so this is some real Jekyll and Hyde poo poo.
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Jun 9, 2015 18:21
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Indolent Bastard posted:It looks ghetto as gently caress, but it works. Thanks. I may still just throw out the lovely paints rather than putting this much effort into it, but I appreciate the suggestion. OneTrueBru posted:I had a bottle of bright brass congeal into a solid lump a while back as well. It reeked too, like a bizarre sour-metallic smell. I have a bottle of Gold with the same issue as the bright brass, though. I bought them several weeks apart, after the store had gotten in a new shipment of VMA (I clearly remember this because the brass was the only color they still had when I went in the first time) but I guess they could still have been from the same run. It's really weird. Pigments settling out and needing a sustained shake to get going is one thing. Paint drying out when the bottle has a poor seal is one thing. Pigment turning to a gluey mess under a thin soup of acrylic medium in a properly sealed container... yeah, that's bullshit. I may give the non-silvers one more try someday (though I'll certainly scrutinize the bottle carefully in the store) but for now, life is too short to deal with this poo poo.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:34
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Fsmhunk posted:If so inclined, just how yonic can you make some Tyranids? Is making your opponent intentionally uncomfortable with paint-schemes and conversions a legitimate tactic? Historically Slaanesh is the go-to for that sort of thing, but Tyranids are actually an excellent idea as they give you more plausible deniability.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:50
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Now that you've pointed out what the pupils looked like in the original, this is all I can see:
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Jun 19, 2015 07:17
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IMO the centurion model isn't nearly as bad when it's meant from the start to be a doofy mechanicus robot rather than something that the adeptus astartes would lower themselves to wear into battle
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Jun 21, 2015 00:42
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Crosspoastin' my completed oaths for this month:JerryLee posted:
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Jun 22, 2015 22:58
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attitude towards these. I mainly just wanted to get the entirety of Dragons Don't Share painted to a rough tabletop standard, and these are another notch in that belt. The only post-wash highlights were on skin, hair, and the green areas of the archer which would've been way too dark otherwise.
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serious gaylord posted:Thanks. I must have started that base over from scratch about 4 times before I got to that, some very very frustrating moments where it just didn't work. I also painted this in a different way to how I normally paint and it made some of the more tedious bits much quicker while still giving the finish I wanted. How did you do it? Looking at it I feel like I would probably approach that effect by sponging light gray and white over a medium gray, then painting the veins on in dark gray, but I'd be surprised if it was actually that simple to get it the way you did.
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Jun 24, 2015 22:48
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Awwwwwright. Deffo gonna have to give that a try one of these months, then.
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Jun 25, 2015 00:04
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Owns so hard. Like, all the highlights are so crisp and in just the right places.
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Jun 27, 2015 09:45
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HardCoil posted:This just came in from shapeways: I can tell what the bolters are but what are the other things? Shapeways has some nice custom bits but their prices are still a bit too rich for my blood given that I'd need to buy 10-20 helmets or whatever.
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Jun 29, 2015 20:02
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Does anyone more in-the-know than I am have any idea when the new Basius pads might be available at retail? The website has a speculative date of last May. 
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Aug 4, 2015 08:08
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Looking to see if anyone knows of candidates for a particular sort of mini. I'm looking for something diminutive compared to a human-sized 28mm figure, posed to carry something. The feel I'm going for is an artifact bearer, a lot like the dude holding the Dark Angel Lion Helm (click here if you don't know what that looks like). I want it to look sort of like a magical or otherworldly servant, but I'm flexible on exactly what form that takes: little robed guy, minor devil, imp, ghost, goblin, etc. I'm also flexible on pose, so it can be standing or kneeling or whatever. The main thing is that it be posed ready to carry something or be already carrying something that can be easily and cleanly cut away.
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Aug 11, 2015 01:13
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Seems to be human sized, but that's definitely a neat suggestion--I especially like that he's got a real ritual acolyte look going on. I'll keep that in the book for sure. 
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Aug 11, 2015 02:59
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Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have any good resources for sculpting? After royally loving up a (pewter) mini trying to resculpt detail onto it, I've realized that I'm not actually as good at this poo poo as I was a decade ago. How did you gently caress it up? I would think it would be very difficult to permanently gently caress up a pewter mini (assuming you are only adding things to it, not cutting things away) because you can always just give it a bath in acetone or something.
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Sep 7, 2015 21:28
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dr_ether posted:So not to offend people, link only to my finished Kingdom Death Wet Nurse https://goo.gl/photos/EfRKykbPjkvbopox8 Very well done, for contextual values of well done.
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Sep 11, 2015 22:27
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I find that adding orange to red makes a good highlight shade of red. In general, using a bone color (rather than pure white) to mix with your base color can give you a highlight shade while avoiding the problem of looking pastel. Both of these are tips I read somewhere in this forum rather than things I discovered myself, incidentally. I hadn't heard of the blue for shadows or yellow for highlights tricks yet, though. I think I'll give those a whirl at some point on a throwaway model where it won't matter if I accidentally add too much.
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Sep 12, 2015 17:50
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While I wait for daylight to see if that helps me take a better picture of my oath (seriously, my usual setup does not want to show the colors properly on that thing for some reason) here's a Crocodile Games flesh hulk I painted up. 
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Sep 14, 2015 03:04
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Aaaand here's my completed oath for this month.   I really wanted to do a good job on this because not only is it one of my favorite enemies ever, the mini itself was a gift from one of my dearest friends. I think I'm satisfied with the end result.
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Sep 14, 2015 17:01
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HardCoil posted:That's awesome on so many levels. Is that an official model? I always wanted a cyberdaemon! Slimnoid posted:Yeah, there was a whole range done by Reaper back in the day. They don't make them any more though, so they're a bit rare and expensive on the secondary market. The Reaper models got a limited re-run a couple of years ago, I want to say for the Doom 20th anniversary commemorations. You had to buy the entire box set for like 100+ bucks and I was poor(er) then so I didn't really get to take advantage.  I don't know why they can't just be licensed as part of Reaper's perpetual catalog. I can only assume that it's because Bethesda has almost as neurotic a relationship with their intellectual property as GW does.
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Sep 15, 2015 01:01
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Basius makes an appealing product but I don't like that they're going back to Kickstarter when they don't even seem to have a good store and/or distribution set up for their existing line. I know they want to upgrade their production facilities, but is that any reason to not be casting and selling poo poo from the setup that the first two kickstarters presumably paid for? I just wanna buy a thing. (also shipping from their kickstarter is a ridiculous ripoff [that they may not be able to help, but still] which is another reason I wish they would get their poo poo into the hands of the big webstores that seem to be able to do it better)
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Sep 23, 2015 23:45
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everythingWasBees posted:So I have a few brush questions. I know sable brushes are the way to go according to the OP but in my experience they're generally for oil and watercolor, as acrylic isn't exactly kind to brushes. However, this experience is more based on traditional painting rather than miniature work. With the amount of paint, and as thinned down as it is, is it a bit different for miniatures work? A W&N S7 size 0 is like 16 bucks on Amazon and will last me for several months at the least, which probably means it lasts for years if you're not as big of a dick to your brushes as I am. In other words, stop worrying and get sable
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Sep 27, 2015 03:52
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 00:18 |
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Oath crosspostin'JerryLee posted:
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Nov 1, 2015 03:24
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