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Count another reader. One of these days I'll have a project thread. Right now I just fix various things on various cars. I just throw that random crap on various appropriate threads. 3D printing is boss. I need to get one of those things. Your jack stands are still holding up several of my die cast cars.
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Sep 26, 2015 21:21
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Geirskogul posted:Here's the router I found yesterday for $30 Rather than using corner braces like that, us a 2x2, or 1x1 if that won't fit, inside the joint, down the full length. And like Safety Dance said, glued and screwed is best, once you're sure you won't need to take it apart. Also, routers are massively handy, along with table saws (I picked up a decent Porter-Cable branded contractor saw at Lowes. It works well, particularly for the price point. Everything else was either massive (storage), expensive, or cheap poo poo. After building my shed, I've determined that I need a compound sliding miter saw. The Harbor freight one we used (belonged to my buddy) was incredibly useful. And a nail gun. Holy poo poo I couldn't even comprehend building anything of a size without a nail gun. Geirskogul posted:That's a good idea. I'll do it after I plane/straighten the storage compartment openings. I wanted to install it to see where the stresses would deform the wood (the bus isn't exactly straight, and it has that curved wall, and again, I'm poo poo at woodworking) and I'm going to go around with some glue (or Titebond III if I have the cashola) and fix stuff. The four cabinet latches aren't a a bad idea. You could take that a step farther and build a drawer with the slides way down at the bottom. They even make bottom mount slides that should work well, or you could just put wheels on the bottom, and roll it out. Geirskogul posted:Doors open upwards. Gonna put a hook or bungee up there to hold them up. No bungee. Use a lid support. like on toyboxes and such: http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/specialty-hinges/chest-hinges-box-hinges-lid-supports/toy-box-lid-supports/ Ferremit posted:little gas struts are cheap on ebay for those doors if you want to be proper fancy? Or that.
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Feb 20, 2016 00:27
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Geirskogul posted:Found this really cool light at goodwill. Converted the central bulb from a filament festoon to LED As mentioned in the "what did I do" thread, that's totally a cop-spec "ticket writing" light. LEDs make it perfect for the camper.
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Feb 27, 2016 01:33
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Raluek posted:Rather than an engine swap, Kastein seems to be suggesting using 1.8 Subaru parts (ECU and assorted bits) to run your existing engine, as a way to get rid of your carb synch woes. I guess the hardest part would be getting all the sensors to mount up correctly, and making an intake manifold with injector bungs and a throttle body. If I remember General Faiilure's Aussie bus adventures, the early Subie boxer is almost identical to a VW engine, just with water jackets. Maybe the later EFI motor isn't much different? Not really all that familiar with VW of Subie...
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Mar 29, 2016 20:08
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Seat Safety Switch posted:There was a cat locally that got found in an engine bay of a truck heading into town. I suggested they call it Idler. I love that. Either that, or "Fanbelt", but Idler is more clever, I think. For Geirskogul's kitty, I like Bug, too.
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May 25, 2016 15:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:Keeping the Beetle now? I was going to say. After all that work to make the bus a home away from home?
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Jan 5, 2017 22:22
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Tease. What did you do/buy?
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Jan 8, 2017 00:49
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:e: ^^^^ It's probably long enough that it hit the wheel itself and bent over, maybe? I honestly think it's sabotage - one of my neighbors' ex-wives comes over randomly between 2 and 6 month increments, and randomly breaks poo poo. She's the one that slashed the tires on my beetle, broke the window to the bus out, pulled boards from my fence, etc etc. I refrain to type anything out that indicates my attitude towards her 2 AM drunken hispanic yelling and vandalism. Sounds like you need some security cameras.
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Jan 31, 2017 00:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I've got her on cameras. Since each damage event is less than $200, it just gets "added to her file" by the detective. Not even the little Wi-fi IP cams? gently caress them. Also, gently caress HOAs in general, while I'm loving. At what point do the damage events add up to enough to get the law to do something? Cops wonder why people go postal on neighbors...
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Jan 31, 2017 21:00
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cakesmith handyman posted:God damnit I need a 3d printer. Ditto. Just for all those little bits. On a similar note, there are times I desperately miss having access to the waterjet I used to run. So many brackets and such I could have made... edit: also, it was my best friend's dad's business, so it sucked that it didn't take off. We were too early in the market.
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Feb 22, 2017 00:31
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I figured that there was a tool for adjusting those damned headlights, but I didn't realize it was that cheap. It was a pain adjusting my new black housings, since a 4mm wrench is typically like 4" long. I was actually pulling them out, adjusting, and reinstalling. Gave up at "close enough." Ordered one from Amazon.
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Mar 13, 2017 20:04
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Not much, and badly done, but I chemically stripped, and then spray painted, the hood. Rust-Oleum white appliance epoxy. Close enough, better than big primer spots. If you want an actual match, like for the smaller spots, O'Reilly's has Duplicolor in cans and touch up bottles, two-stage. The clear seems to dry matte, though. Looks like they want you to color sand it, which is annoying. Match seems pretty good on the plug for the hole in my roof I painted. This stuff: https://duplicolor.com/scratchfix/products?color=WT&id=20818 also on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BFM0335-Performance-Exact-Match-Automotive/dp/B00407RSN6 Ain't cheap, mind you. Metal Geir Skogul posted:E: I got 20 mpg this fillup. A lot of that was burnouts and idling, and 3/4 of that was with the bad coils. Eh. I'm averaging 16.4 MPG, according to Fuelly, best of 19.5. Almost all city-ish driving. I'd love to take a long trip in it to see what it'll do. The 19.5 was from a nice long drive. I've changed the plugs, may need coils. I suppose I could do that before I assume the rough idle is from the timing chain. Metal Geir Skogul posted:Forgot to mention the kit. That was a gotcha for me. I know right? It's comically thin without a transport mechanism. My Pioneer mechless is almost as shallow. The Pioneer has rear USB and aux, so I bought a marine input jack and put it beside the lower power point, like EvellSnoats. Somehow, I don't have a picture. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/USB-Mount-Cable-Extention-Motorcycle/dp/B00VAIEAUM/ Totally putting one of these in the console, ith a switch to toggle battery or ignition sourced: https://www.amazon.com/zowaysoon-PJH-RS-0377-Digital-Voltmeter-Socket/dp/B00WLFU7QY Oh, hey, one with a switch!: https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Charger-Voltmeter-Functions-Vehicles/dp/B01N4QWJUO/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
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Mar 20, 2017 19:46
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Bought a lovely knockoff center console from Amazon Not bad. Looks a bit sturdier than my WalMart special, maybe? Any metal in it, or all plastic? I think I'd prefer the flip top on that as opposed to the slider on mine, and I've already had to reattach the bit that bridges over the slider with the arm rest and rear cupholders. It contains actual metal for support, now.
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Mar 20, 2017 19:49
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scuz posted:The center console in our band van is a wooden end-table that I secured to the floor via angle brackets and drywall screws. Your console, by comparison, is Quite Good. This is acceptable, as long as there is shag carpet, and additional wood furniture and/or staircase railings in the van, ala The Seventies.
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Mar 20, 2017 20:19
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Vanagoon posted:The ECU on OBD2 vehicles stores current learned parameters in Keep Alive Memory. Disconnecting the battery for a bit clears it. Hmm. I might need to do that on mine.
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Mar 26, 2017 21:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's just a one-piece shaft with a slip yoke on the transmission side, yeah? Literally just four bolts at the axle end to remove the straps, then shove the whole driveshaft towards the transmission to unseat it from the axle. Wrap the whole U-joint in electrical tape to keep the two free caps from flying off, then angle it clear of the axle and just pull it back out. Probably want to have a pan underneath the tailshaft to catch any drippings. It's even easier than that. It should be a flange, so no u-joint straps or danger of the caps falling off. 4 bolts and that's it.
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Apr 26, 2017 05:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I bought the seals today. I didn't know which was which, but I think I got the output shaft seal, tailshaft gasket, tailshaft seal, and pinion seals. Along with transmission filter and another bonded, OEM gasket. Just in case. Remember to be ready for the transmission to puke an amazing amount of fluid when you pull the slip yoke out. Whether that mean a container to catch it, or just "keep your face out of the way" is up to you.
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Apr 30, 2017 01:57
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Today I took the fan off of the bus again, replaced the O-ring that goes underneath the fan hub to crank taper flange (it was cracked), and re-sealed (using some red lithium grease and Right Stuff) a few of the pushrod tubes. It keeps leaving stains everywhere More-than-finger-tight bolts and good sealant will do that. F-ing POs, eh?
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May 16, 2017 07:05
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That's not a bad size of lathe for a hobbyist, though. Everything my dad and late almost-brother-in-law have (had) are too big for my garage. I mean, they'll fit, but nothing else will in that bay afterward. 9" x 4' or better, which makes them like 6-7' long overall, minimum. Not that I wouldn't use one that size, but I'd like to get some other tools in there as well, and my wife would like to park her car in there something before we die (which is why I need land and a shop...) I'll find a little guy eventually, maybe one of the HF/Grizzly/etc. ones, and just use dads 9" Clausing when I need bigger. And his knee mill. I don't think my garage roof is tall enough to get a substantial Bridgeport in. The door definitely isn't. Again: land, shop. $350 sounds pretty reasonable. You always end up buying tooling and fixtures, unless you get very lucky.
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May 22, 2017 21:07
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 00:34 |
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:(This will be back to Bus stuff soon. All related) No worries. Lathe stuff is cool, too. It is, after all, your thread.
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May 28, 2017 19:07
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