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So, just smashed my way through the whole thread, and while disappointed that the RX-7 is still mothballed, I'm learning a lot about Subaru Lego. And now i want a Legacy (US-spec Liberty) wagon.
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Jun 14, 2017 22:53
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 23:24 |
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:The RX-7 is on our minds - just been pushed to one side while a heap of other stuff gets done. I'm hoping I can find a Group C kit here in the US for my '79. I could make due with the usual ZG-style flares, but I really want the Group C look, and the either the Group B paint scheme, or the Mazda factory GTU scheme, but in blue over white. First I need a new engine, and to get rid of a couple of the spare cars to generate cash and garage space.
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Jun 14, 2017 23:34
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Kaptainballistik posted:Google group c kit on Gumtree (the aus version)... Lots of sellerss! Well, yes, but oh god the shipping. If that's the only way to get it, then that's what'll happen. edit: also, I'd say that you boys have an above average garage, counter to what that article says... Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jun 15, 2017 |
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Jun 15, 2017 23:23
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Kaptainballistik posted:It can't be worse than how much the US companies charge for shipping 😂. Japan shipping? Ow, UK? Reasonable, Canada? Fark, USA...FUKDAT. Well, I meant more that the occupants/users of the garage are above average, I guess.  Fo3 posted:True. Getting parts from my BMW from UK, eg 2 struts, ~$100 shipping. Some control arms and poo poo from the US? US$215/AU$290. Getting things from the US is a rip off. It's way cheaper from UK even though it's further away. Most likely a "go away" shipping price. Customs is annoying to deal with, and they've got plenty of customers within the US, I imagine. Plus, you're, you know, an island literally on the other side of the world... I've never tried to ship to AUS, so no idea what the actual costs are. Getting poo poo from China to the US seems cheap enough, if a bit slow.
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Jun 16, 2017 18:03
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jamal posted:I just put two struts into the cart at one of my wholesale distributors, and selected "australia," and it gave me a shipping quote of $189 for UPS worldwide express. Then I went to the fedex website and put in two 20lb packages coming from here to Sydney and it tells me $662. USPS says $234. So it's not the dealers that are trying to screw anyone over. However, I think if I actually call fedex and talk to a person they can give better pricing, especially with an account. I pretty much always figured it was the shippers being asshats.
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Jun 19, 2017 20:10
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I'd like to thank Mighty Car Mods for bringing me to understanding of the term "sex spec".
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Jun 25, 2017 15:33
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Kaptainballistik posted:So what's this then? CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:He means this A 404 error?
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Jun 25, 2017 23:49
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Kaptainballistik posted:That may be what the issue is! I have the same trouble when I use Gallery on my domain. so I just started using Imgur for SA stuff. Easier to upload, too. If ya'll fix your Gallery, let me know how. I can't get v3 to install correctly, so I'm stuck with v2, and both are abandonware. edit: It may be I just need to get my host to turn on https?
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Jul 1, 2017 00:25
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I came across those issues with Gallery a few years ago so I switched to Piwigo and a fresh db and used a Lets Encrypt cert when I realised SA wanted https. Thence depreciated Gallery and let it for historical photos. Piwigo I can recommend and def not abandonware. I pushed Piwigo last night up to 2.9 so my version of PHP was properly supported Thanks, I'll look into that. I guess there's no reason I can't leave the existing gallery up, and just start a new one for new stuff, as you've done, now that I got Gallery v2 working with PHP 5(?). Had to remove some deprecated commands, which took some time, and a tech at my hosting looking at the error logs to figure out. I'm a hobbyist at this at best (much like cars...)
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Jul 2, 2017 03:18
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I approve of the RX-2. Those are some massive rally light housings.
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Aug 27, 2017 21:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:If I wasn't on the wrong side of the world, I'd be in.
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Sep 20, 2017 16:14
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Discustard ...and there you go.
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Jan 15, 2018 20:53
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:https://www.facebook.com/kaptainballistik/posts/10155428891823723 Not a bad pull. Let it live! (voted over there on FB, too.) quote:Also - I love how the Australian Chrysler products look and feel like they're from a similar, but different reality. Which I guess they are in a way. It's like a US Charger that didn't get quite so biiiiig (not a bad thing, really.) We did at least get performance variants of the Dart, Demon, and Duster compacts.
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Feb 20, 2018 23:32
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Fo3 posted:In what way are they compacts? In the same way that my '70 Cutlass, all 16' 3" of it, was an "Intermediate."
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Feb 27, 2018 00:42
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Don't forget the GM A body, though that was specific to North America. Mentioning this since there were some US GM models mentioned. Beat me to it. My '70 Olds Cutlass is an A-body.
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Mar 2, 2018 17:06
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Raluek posted:As is the Chevelle I mentioned. All of those midsize GMs: Chevelle/Malibu, Cutlass/442, Tempest/Lemans/GTO, GS/GSX. Am I forgetting some? Yeah, the Buick Skylark, but that's the pedestrian version of the GS/GSX, so meh. Fo3 posted:I thought it was specific to chrysler A body chat. STR/Yu-gi-ho! mentioned it as a clarification, since both GM and Chrysler have "A-bodies." Even better, GM continued to call the intermediates A-bodies for the first few model years after down-sizing them in '78, then changed it to "G-body," for added confusion. And *then* applied the A-body designation to the FWD Chevy Celebrity and it's siblings in 1982! CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Lets chat about whatever And by way of roundabout, GM is now using Opel-designed platforms for several of the most recent cars. Some just lifted wholesale (Buick convertible with the hidden taillights in the trunk. Edit: Cascada. They didn't even change the name!) Isn't the Camaro platform Opel based? Or was that stolen from Holden? Pretty much anything RWD that's not a truck is coming from "Eurp".
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Mar 6, 2018 00:04
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sneakyfrog posted:subs do low frequency so they need a larger surface area in order to push the amount of air for those lower tones, tweeters do the super high frequencies so they dont need to be massive to get just the highs nice and sharp. tweeters usually have built in crossovers so you (usually) dont need a external xover box, subs on the other hand are usually dumb boxes so they usually need an external crossover. Me, too. If he weren't on the bottom of the world, I'd see about taking all those worthless stereo things off his hands...
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Mar 13, 2018 21:27
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:There's been a fair bit of testing with the tuners here and for local conditions the thought is the 5/30w Subaru use shears/breaks down in the heat and does exactly like what I saw - 5/40w is more approriate or even 10/40w, even if that one is not "recommended", a point added to fuel economy be damned. Less heat stressed NA Subarus might be able to get away with the newer lower visocisty oils but the turbos cant... hell the Liberty's EZ30 was better with at least 5/40w. I’m seeing spotwelds drilled out, but I don’t see what Nightmare Moon has to do with that. ... poo poo, trap sprung? (I have a daughter. I’m supposed to know who she’s talking about when she rambles on about what the ponies did. )
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May 14, 2018 02:43
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Kaptainballistik posted:I’m finding this all very amusing...🤪 loving hell, I hate that. If they need you enough to extend a bunch of times, just loving *hire* you! I'm stuck as a permanent contractor at the moment, myself. I may have to offer an ultimatum. I don't really want to, because I don't want to leave, but the lack of holiday, sick, and vacation pay, and health insurance costs are killing me. Significantly reduces my effective pay. CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Hell even uncles et to learn about such things. I can name seven ponies off the top of my head -_- Guilty. That said, the current generation of MLP is far more tolerable than the originals. Those were some bad
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May 14, 2018 23:09
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Wether MLP is tolerable or good isnt the issue to me - it seems like a resonably harmless show with a good(ish) message that sells girl toys. The real problem is loving Bronies. Well, yeah! Kaptainballistik posted:Yeah, it’s way better than sitting through Barbie! Agreed. My girl like Monster High, which can be fairly entertaining. And anime. So far her tastes in that have been reasonable. Right now she's grounded from Netflix, so I don't have to watch anything, though.
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May 15, 2018 16:27
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Aug 2, 2018 00:06
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iospace posted:Please be what I think it is: 6x6
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Aug 3, 2018 16:30
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God drat with the blue balls in here.
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Aug 16, 2018 23:44
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I hate the damned things. My goal in life is to remove them from my presence. I'm in progress with my '79 RX-7. The '70 Olds Cutlass and the AE86 still have calibrated leaks.
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Feb 13, 2019 18:19
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I’m basically stuffing a GSL-SE into my ‘79.
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Feb 13, 2019 19:41
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Yay! Brap-brap noises!
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Feb 19, 2019 22:27
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I think we have found one of the most unexpected sources for big brakes that can be fitted to a Subaru. KB's running some design ideas on a jig before this one gets unveiled GM truck. edit: context for top of page.
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Mar 1, 2019 16:56
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You Am I posted:I doubt it is a GM truck due to the fact there's a tiny number of them on Australian roads. Hence unexpected! Eh? Eh?
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Mar 2, 2019 01:05
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:LOL no one is even close Tesla.
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Mar 5, 2019 23:09
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You kind of gave it away in the EV Anticipation thread, if one were aware of the challenge in this thread, though I wasn't certain. Teslas do look to have some nice brakes (ironically, for something that does a lot of braking with regen.)
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Mar 6, 2019 23:29
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I would love to electrify one of my first-gen RX-7 chassis. Still a bit more to go where it's financially feasible, and even more to make it cheaper than putting in another rotary or other gas engine, even over long-ish term. Makes more sense to use Tesla units in RWD cars with IRS, though, due to the nature of the drive unit. Or FWD cars, I guess.
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Mar 29, 2019 22:37
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Yep. Two small turbos and you got yourself a decent bit of power and a very respnsive engine I would love to boost the H6 in my new-to-me Outback, but it's to be the wife's daily and needs to pas US emissions and stuff, soooo... not yet. I will instead live vicariously through you.
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Jul 12, 2019 00:20
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Now that I own an Outback 3.0 H6... I think I like Subarus. I need to try something in manual/turbo flavor. Or at least turbo. Really wish they’d made the H6 with a manual - it feels like it would be a hoot. It’s not terrible with the automatic, once I convinced the thing that I didn’t want it to go into third immediately, and never downshift for anything. Thankfully it learns a bit.
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Jul 19, 2019 19:54
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As far as I know we didn't get such fun things, so I'll either have to swap an H6 into something, or a manual into an H6 car (which as far as I know, only the Outbacks got here in the US of A.) 'Sokay, the turbo 2.5 makes almost as much HP stock, and makes choo-choo noises to boot. I like the "Subaru noise", too, which the H6 lacks - though it can sound 911-ish with a proper exhaust. I'd look for a Forester XT, but my daughter turns 18 in November and will need a cheap, decent beater first. Thankfully, Texas is the land of no rust, so cheap running, driving cars are pretty easy to find. Working AC is a must, though. Anyhow, enough of that - don't want to poo poo up CI's thread any more than that. I'll be posting those adventures over in my thread and the chat thread.
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Jul 20, 2019 21:55
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Probably best to know what you're doing when you do that! Not quite as permanent as it once was, but still pretty involved. Congrats, my man.
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Aug 20, 2019 18:09
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What did you buy?
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Nov 18, 2019 21:52
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Dagen H posted:Okay then, what did you acquire? What he said.
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Nov 19, 2019 00:04
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Is that an early or later EZ30? Early ones (like my 2004) have a single exhaust outlet, which is fine if you're going to turbo it, according to Turbo Yoda, but poo poo for NA flow. Later ones (I believe it's '06 or later) have 3 separate exhaust ports - much better for building custom headers. On mine, the collector is basically in the head, so my only option for improving exhaust is a muffler and maybe larger piping. Thankfully, I didn't buy it as a performance vehicle. Honestly, it's got decent power, if only I could get into the transmission programming and make it less squishy/early shifting, it would be quite a bit more fun.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:40
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Neat! I'd love to turbo our Outback just for shits and giggles once it's not a daily driver. Would have to figure out management, of course, and deal with emissions testing...
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Jan 2, 2020 22:58
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 23:24 |
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Well, an engine bay is a great place to start spraying, because, usually, it doesn't need to be perfect. Spraying is actually fairly easy once you learn how to set the gun, and certain techniques (like, not waving the gun, but keeping it consistently parallel to the panel, and moving at a steady, consistent speed.) For an engine bay, you could probably get away with using a smallish detail gun. You would definitely want to turn the paint flow down on a full-size gun, I think, due to all the nooks and crannies and irregular surfaces, as opposed to typical exterior panel spraying. As for cleaning, on my RX-7 (which, I will say, has NOT been painted yet!) I went with copious amounts of "purple" cleaner/degreaser, some hand scrubbing with a brush in the really greasy, grody bits, and a pressure washer, also initially with a little purple cleaner in the solution tank. In my case, I've got a fair amount of peeled paint, and therefore surface rust in the battery and brake/clutch master cylinders area, so that needed a good sanding, and will be sanding the remaining paint to give the new paint some bite. Also, to feather edge the paint to where there is no paint. I'm going to use an epoxy primer/sealer to hopefully keep the chemicals from stripping the paint down to the bare metal again, and to keep any rust at bay/contained, then using a catalyzed urethane single stage paint, also for toughness. In your case, it looks like the original paint is still in decent shape. Factory paint is an excellent base, you just need to degrease the heck out of it, and scuff it sufficiently to make the new paint stick to it. You can get decent result with a spray can. The main problem with spray cans is the (lack of) quality of the paint that's in them, and the relative lack of control over flow and spray pattern. Some of the same techniques apply, though. I've gotten some really good paint jobs on small pieces out of spray cans. Prep matters just as much either way. More than the actual paint job, really. The prep part is the tedious bit. Degrease and scrub until there's no schmoo left. Then sand a bunch, in every little crease, nook, cranny, edge, bit, and piece. That will take days, or more. The spray will take 15-30 minutes. BTW, you have plenty of spare body panels about, including an entire bent car. Practice on it a bit before letting loose on a car you care about. PAinting is really something that takes some practice to figure out. I've only used my cheap Harbor Freight HVLP a few times, but I've been painting stuff, including a lot of model cars with spray cans and airbrushes since I was a kid. When I was out of work for a month a while back, I decided "gently caress it" and resprayed the upper half of my '90 RX-7 with Rustoleum satin black - an oil based definitely-not-automotive paint - because the clear coat had failed, and I had some surface rust taking over various horizontal surfaces. It came out wildly better than I expected. I made sure to wipe it down with solvent to get any grease or wax off, sanded it all over with, as I recall 120 grit, maybe down to 240 grit, feather-edging any actual chips or missing paint areas, masked from just above the door handles down, thinned the Rustoleum a bit, and let fly. I figured it really couldn't be worse than what I had. Before: I forgot about the front fenders and hood being from my blue car...   The hood is half-sanded in these pictures.   (roof was previously painted with Rustoleum satin black from a spray can. No where near thick enough, obviously.)  Alo some missing paint and surface rust around my hatch. Sanded, and partially masked:    (neat bronze or brass brazing there on the seam between the left quarter and the rear panel) Since the fenders were a darker color, and the hood had a lot of bare metal, I primed them, and the bare metal around the hatch and on the roof.  BTW - primer is a good practice medium for paint - it's very forgiving of technique, since it flat, and usually heavier, and pretty easy to sand off if it goes badly. Masked up for the color coat:   (yes, there's a dent on the right quarter that I never got around to fixing... I meant to get a stud gun to pull that out eventually.) Don't forget PPE:  Aaaaand, boom!:   It just took some fiddling about with the paint flow and fan settings, spraying onto a piece of cardboard to get a setting I liked for the speed I wanted to move. You use a nice, wide fan for the bulk of the panels, and then narrow it down for detail work, and things like the a-pillars. Given all the other stuff you've done, I bet you could pick this up. Honestly, of all the body working skills, the spray is probably the easiest. I'd rate beating out dents and getting a panel straight *much* harder. I'm working on that part myself. It's a bitch, if you don't cheat and use a ton of filler. Welding in new stuff, on that thin sheet metal is also something of a bother. Get a cheap-to-mid-price spray gun and practice on a wheelbarrow or something. Anything metal. This is assuming that you have enough air compressor to run a spray gun - that's the real catch. Even an HVLP requires a decent compressor, but not quite as much as the old high-pressure siphon guns. I have no idea what the Australian equivalent to Harbor Freight would be, but I was very surprised at how well their US$12 HVLP gun worked. I'll have to see how well it handles actual glossy automotive paint, but it did the Rustoleum fine. I presume that you folks have some sort of importer of cheap
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Jan 7, 2020 00:40
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