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CornHolio posted:I wouldn't do number five if you haven't seen the truck. You don't know what shape the brakes and brake lines are in, or how many animals have died inside that thing. Well, as Kastein mentioned in the chat thread, if it's a regular stovebolt six, then any old SBC will plug right in. I think they even share one of the engine mount locations. And if you think you need brakes, I suggest you repent to the church of V8.
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Apr 23, 2016 21:51
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I think one of the mount locations is the same as the V8, but you'd have to do something about the other one. I am pretty sure that the bellhousing is the same. Doing a cursory google search, it looks like there might be an issue with steering box clearance, so that might cause some problems. Might not be as plug-n-chug as I was hoping.
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Apr 24, 2016 06:32
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ExplodingSims posted:Someone please talk me down from the edge. You will find very little of that here. I'd say that if you found documentation that other people have done that swap in that chassis (I'm sure countless have), ideally with pictures so you know exactly what you're in for, you should be pretty well prepared. Don't forget the dumped cherry bombs so you aren't running open headers 
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Apr 24, 2016 22:18
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The Locator posted:Had no idea Chevy did a retro truck in 1994. Probably an S-10 chassis, those are pretty popular for this sort of thing.
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May 12, 2016 04:52
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ExplodingSims posted:Yeah, this is the goal right now, find an engine that can work with the current transmission and doesn't require a lot of loving around to get in there. 
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May 16, 2016 02:19
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Leperflesh posted:Yeah but no title... If they're just borrowing the drivetrain, why does this matter? I guess moving the parts car would be a problem, can you get short-term paper tags for a car you don't legally own? 
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May 23, 2016 23:15
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some texas redneck posted:Well I mean you can always get a temporary permit... Can you get one of those if you don't own the car in question (on paper)? Lost title means it "belongs" to someone else, technically, yes?
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May 23, 2016 23:37
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Leperflesh posted:California where you can't just randomly swap engines into things You can if it's pre-1975, in practice, and you can if it was pre-smog (so like mid-60s and before?) 100% legally.
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May 23, 2016 23:50
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Panaflex posted:Yeah you're technically supposed to keep any existing OEM emissions equipment intact on all vehicles back to 1966. But since only 1976 and later vehicles are inspected no one ever abides by that rule for 1966-1975. Also you can't swap an older motor into a newer vehicle. The motor has to be the same manufacture year or newer than the receiving vehicle. Yeah, that's why I said "in practice" 1975 or earlier. There is no mechanism for them to check up on you if you don't have regular smog checks, but you're technically not in compliance if you gently caress with a '66-'75 vehicle. But, obviously, this truck is earlier than both those years, so that is neither here nor there.
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May 26, 2016 10:07
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Can you really not find a sbc near where the truck is? I'd think you'd want to go with an older, gen1, 2-piece rear main seal (since they changed the crank bolt circle when they moved to 1-piece, iirc) sbc so that a lot of the legos still apply. Also, those LT1s don't have the spot for the mechanical fuel pump anymore, do they? Just seems kind of like jumping the gun on this motor, especially since the car doesn't have anything else you can use.
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Jun 4, 2016 20:15
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ExplodingSims posted:So if scuz can yank the flywheel out of the Roadmaster, it should fit. Reminder that the Roadmaster is an automatic. It's got a flexplate.
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Jun 5, 2016 00:28
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ExplodingSims posted:Can someone explain the difference difference between the LT1 in a Roadmaster and and LT1 in a Corvette? I think it comes down to different heads, cam, possibly intake, and certainly tune. I'm pretty sure the shortblock is the same.
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Jun 6, 2016 04:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:I thought Corvettes got aluminum blocks and not just aluminum heads, but I could be very wrong here. It was very much a case where LT1 didn't mean the same thing across the board, though, and not by just what had to be changed to go from Y-body to F-body to B-body. Oh, is that so? I didn't know they had all-aluminum LT1s. E: Apparently, B-body LT1s were often 2-bolt main, whereas Vette ones were usually 4-bolt. But according to a page I found, both blocks have the same casting number. Raluek fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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Jun 6, 2016 04:43
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Elephanthead posted:https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/pts/5608601977.html The big block, small block, and inline six all have the same bellhousing pattern, as far as I know. Is this not the case? Also, I'm not sure when (if?) the big block got a 1-piece rear main (and thus needing a different flywheel); it might be '86 like the small blocks?
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Jun 19, 2016 02:14
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Geirskogul posted:and *BAM* 
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Aug 3, 2016 16:45
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Liquid Communism posted:One of the things I cherish about AI is the fountains of knowledge available in how to make a modern engine regress technologically to just loving work. Yeah all you need to make a TBI motor run without computer fuckery is a carb intake manifold and carb, a distributor of your choice (HEI, as STR mentioned, would be pretty straightforward if you have the firewall clearance), and fuel delivery of your choice. STR was also correct about some of those blocks having provisions for a mechanical pump, and some cams having the appropriate lobe. Don't you have the donor vehicle already? Should be pretty easy to sort that out first. You can even get the new setup running before you leave, so any drivability issues get sorted out before you pull it. E: Oh, also, you might need to make a pigtail for the alternator, because that would go away with the rest of the stock wiring harness. One wire to +12V at the fuse block (voltage sense), one wire to switched 12V. Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 02:35
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Anything for a SBC without Vortec heads will work. Best performance: Performer RPM air-gap https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7501 Most affordable: Summit has these re-branded Weiand ones for cheap https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226012 And of course there are a bunch of options in the middle. I generally go for stuff that has a square-bore setup rather than the square/spread, since you're gonna be using a square bore carb anyway. I had an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold that I would have given you for the cost of shipping, but I gave it away to my neighbor a few years ago because I had no use for it and didn't want to deal with selling it.  Maybe check your local craigslist? Might find some deals, and it's probably pretty easy to tell if a cast chunk of aluminum is messed up or not. As for carburetors, really any 4-barrel in the 600-650cfm range is gonna do you. Edelbrocks are (in my experience) easier to whack on and go, but Holleys (and derivatives) give you more adjustability. But since you aren't modifying the motor internally, just about anything will work in its stock configuration (maybe a jet change for elevation? I dunno, I'm at sea level) so see what you can get cheap in the right ballpark size-wise. Slapping an 850cfm carb on there won't work too well E: As for the Professional Products manifolds, they're OK but they work. I have the Vortec Crosswind on my (vortec-headed) 350, and I'm really not satisfied with the fit and finish. Pipe thread fittings don't go into it very well, and the gasket surface is juuuust big enough to barely work, but they clearly skimped on material. But I'm still using it, because it still works. I guess you're just using this motor temporarily anyway, right? I think your idea about the junkyard might be a good one. I usually see at least one 60s or 70s pickup with a small block and some aluminum aftermarket intake manifold on it. You might get lucky and find something good for peanuts. Raluek fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 03:26
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some texas redneck posted:I thought the TBI heads were still a bit different? As far as I know, they aren't. Even the Vortec ones aren't that much different, they are just missing the crossover in the middle and the bolts go at a different angle.
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Sep 10, 2016 04:34
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Sure, but the plan is to just put a known-running motor in it for now in order to get it home, then the crazy poo poo starts once it's in ES's clutches.
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Sep 10, 2016 08:53
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Seminal Flu posted:djdanno is going to have a tame Firestone mechanic chained up in the back yard. Some say he almost killed a 4.0 Jeep. Others have mentioned his proclivity to summon dark powers. All we know is that he's called 14. "Tamed" might be a bit optimistic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyL2AO-Xo3k
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Nov 3, 2016 21:51
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Dannywilson posted:14" how would you describe your upper torso size in regards to general clothes sizes? Do you have ape arms, do you have a weirdly long torso etc? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8kQvT50GYw
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Nov 12, 2016 11:30
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The Locator posted:So I am on vacation and following this on my phone and other than the fact that it burned to the ground, I don't seem to find anything on what happened to make it catch on fire. What happened? djdanno13 posted:What caused the fire? Well the fuel rail had massive leaks, especially at the regulator. Like you could see it dripping out as the car was running. Honestly it was almost a miracle it didn't burst into flames somewhere over the Rockies. Anyways Dave was rightfully skeezed out by this and that was the main reason he was driving the Jimmy so he could get parts for the jeep. One regulator later and the problem was fixed.... at the regulator. This caused more pressure further down the rail where there was another leak, but one not as apparent as the first one. Eventually gas and hot engine does what it always does and poof!
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Nov 13, 2016 22:59
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CharlesM posted:Can't wait to see next week's police blotter. "Strange Washingon man resumes work on war rig as previous steed burns"
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Nov 13, 2016 23:18
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Fermented Tinal posted:But if you don't rebuild the XJ how are you gonna tow the fastback home? Get both the fastback and the truck sorta running, put the fastback in the back of the truck, drive truck to florida, drive fastback from florida to Washington
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Nov 13, 2016 23:43
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On one hand, I'm disappointed that you're cutting holes in the body and chopping up the frame/crossmembers, especially since that motor's not the final one to go in there. But on the other hand... that motor sits in there pretty good, doesn't it?
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Nov 17, 2016 11:09
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empty baggie posted:My father in law had one of those. He sold it and a '69 barracuda to some chucklefuck who came by with cash in hand, even though he promised he would sell the 'cuda to me when he was ready. I'm still pretty pissed off about it. I'm almost impressed by the amount of testicular fortitude he must have to ask you for a free car after the mean, backstabbing betrayal he has struck you with.
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Nov 20, 2016 09:28
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Tomarse posted:Nice one CSB! It's not an oil sensor location. It's the pipe thread plug that you pull to drain the water jacket. There's one on each side of the block, and have been since the 50s. I like to put a petcock on mine; makes draining easier. They pulled the plug on one side and installed a knock sensor there. Probably was just a convenient place right next to the cylinders. Raluek fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 2, 2016 03:23
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Can confirm thats a knock sensor. Its a dead ringer with the ones I yanked out of my avalache's 5.3. You can probably run without it (I did for 2 years), just keep the timing conservative. Also, on the ls based motors, they are threaded into the valley pan. Under the intake manifold. I'm glad I listened and bought both sensors and a new harness to do that job. Also, I'll happily offer to look poo poo up for 14" while at work. I can pull up wiring diagrams easy enough, take pictures and send to him. Sure, but a gen1 SBC doesn't have a valley pan. So they just found a convenient hole, and stuck it there. 
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Dec 2, 2016 07:10
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Old Binsby posted:I'm from Euroland where everything is different, but don't US vehicles need a periodical inspection to determine whether they're still somewhat roadworthy? Aside from the usual emissions standards and seatbelt/safety requirements that usually get waived for older vehicles, you can't take a car on the road here unless it's had a check for general integrity of brakes, drivetrain, suspension, etc etc etc. Depends on the state. I don't think Florida does, and I'm assuming that's where Sims registered the truck.
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Dec 2, 2016 22:52
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Just making sure, but the prime directive of your presence there in Valentine is to fix cars, right? To make them more drivable then when you started?
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Dec 3, 2016 23:23
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According to http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?336-16168625-PCM-Information-E6
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Dec 4, 2016 23:45
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14 BAR RIFF posted:Guys my fever feels like its back and I only have these wires left to identify. I can't figure out wiring diagrams any more tonight on my own. It looks like the wiring diagram I provided on the last page matches part of your connector there. The blue connector is E for the top row and F for the bottom row, I believe. So, since you have orange, pink/blk, gray as the first three wires, those are E16, E15, E14 on that diagram. So, solid orange is "battery feed" and goes to the fuel pump relay and fusible link (fuse box?). Pink/blk is fused ign, and ties in with the rest of the pink/blk wires that also are fused ign. Solid purple is brake switch. Annoyingly, I don't see an orange/blk on that connector. There's another orange on the other row, which is serial data to the diag port. Brown/white is "sys chk" light and goes to the instrument cluster. I'm having a hard time finding green/white, but there's a "light green" that goes to a shift solenoid (obv unused for your manual trans). Not sure if that's the same. I hope this isn't wildly off base. E: Actually, this one seems to match up a tad bit better. Hang on, let me go through it.  E2: Okay, yeah. The wires in question: ORG: E16, +12V batt ORG-BLK: not sure PPL: E13, brake switch PINK-BLK: E15, switched ign GRN-WHT: F6, fuel pump relay control BRN-WHT: E6, check engine light in dash If you could tell us exactly which position that orange/black wire was going into, maybe we can give a little additional info on it? This latest diagram calls out E8 as "yellow/black" and it's a shift solenoid, so that's looking likely, although the wire looks pretty orange to me. If it would be any help, here are all three pages of that wiring diagram: http://imgur.com/a/UDkio Raluek fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Dec 5, 2016 |
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Dec 5, 2016 04:13
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14 BAR RIFF posted:Orange/black appears to be F9, but *maybr * E9. Its in the 9 slot though and on Tue same side as green/white Green/white is in F6, so yeah probably F9. That would indicate that it's diagnostic connector serial data. On the schematic I posted last page, that is called out as just plain "ORG", so that's probably correct.
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Dec 5, 2016 04:42
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You might want to check to make sure that the wire positions I called out a couple posts ago match your reality, though. It looks like the two diagrams agree on pin position/function, but occasionally disagree on wire color.
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Dec 5, 2016 04:48
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cakesmith handyman posted:The British Leyland version of this thread would be terrible. Yeah, in this case the vehicle that caught fire was entirely auxillary to the project.
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Dec 5, 2016 08:43
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So I take it that the suggestion to point the headers straight up and put the hood in the bed for the trip was not well received? It's not like this motor is going to be the permanent occupant of the engine bay, so making it a bit impractical for the few days it's in transit doesn't seem like a huge problem, and seems better than messing with the rest of the truck (the steering in this case) too much. Although, I guess you'll have to solve this problem eventually, since Sims is planning to go bigger (there was talk of a BBC at one point earlier?) in the future.
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Dec 9, 2016 23:09
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Also, what about a cast iron log manifold? That might stay high enough, and if it doesn't, you can get two passenger side manifolds and flip one for the driver's side, send it around the front of the motor like a Y-block. Not like you're lacking in engine bay space. Might be worth going to the JY and seeing what you can scrounge from random factory truck manifolds. I'm sure there is no dearth of SBCs in pickups in pick-n-pulls.
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Dec 9, 2016 23:14
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Wasn't there some talk of getting modern-ish wheels/tires for it? Or did you find a tire shop willing to risk life and limb?
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Dec 10, 2016 09:02
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kastein posted:The o2 sensor really works better when it reads only exhaust. Yeah I basically meant "try all the parts in all the orientations, including upside down and backwards, and one of them might clear." And when I mentioned the truck Y-block exhaust configuration, I was talking about this:  Looks like Shrugs had the right idea, too. Yay, I'm glad that things are progressing! Does the steering box clear in its factory position with the van manifold upside down and backwards? If so, that ownsssss
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Dec 11, 2016 00:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:poo poo that would have worked great too. Good call on that, maybe they'll still have to use it. Well I mean those particular manifolds won't fit a SBC, but that orientation of shooting it out the top front and around the other side. It actually goes in the front of the pass side manifold, so they only need one exhaust system for the 6-cyl and V8 motors, but you could just run it parallel to the other pipe on that side and into a Y-pipe or whatever. I dunno how much of an exhaust system is even in play here.
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Dec 11, 2016 01:16
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