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 CLICK HERE TO HELP SEND 14" DICK TO NEBRASKA] So, I've posted about this in the chat thread, but I guess the project's officially rolling, so it deserves its own thread. In short, I bought a truck. A dump truck. A dump truck with no engine. A dump truck with no engine in Montana  Pictured : Scenic Miles City, Montana. Yes, it's a 1951 Chevy 6400 Dump truck. 15' Wheelbase, 20' total lengh, and weighing in a 3 tons.  It's actually, from what I can tell picturewise, not in bad shape.   Interior might need some dusting though:  Anyways, it's not in any worse shape than Moocow's truck was. Now, you may be wondering why I said there's bad decisions, well, the truck is in Montana, and I am in Florida. But true love knows no boundaries, and quite frankly, for a truck of this type, in this shape, for $700~, it was almost impossible to say no. I've turned down several trucks over the years for being in worse shape, too expensive, too far away, etc. But this one, this one is different, and I couldn't resist pulling the trigger on it. Funnily enough, I didn't think I would win it. I bought it off of ebay, and kinda just through some money at it, went to work, and then found out I own a truck 2500 miles away. That being said, the first challenge is getting it to Florida. I've spoken with the owner, and he has a buddy of his with a farm outside of Minneapolis, and said farm owner has agreed to tow it there, and hold it there, while I work out the other 1500 miles. And that's the fun part. So figure my options are: 1. Pay someone on Uship or whatever to haul it. Boring, but safe. Also, $$$$$$ 2. Drive up there an haul it myself. I have an Explorer and an XJ. Neither one of those is up to the task. 3. Find a buddy, or goon, with a big truck or trailer to drive up there and tow it back down. Goon road trip? 4. Find several goons with trailers willing to relay race it down to Florida. 5. Fly up there, slam a new engine/tranny in, get it roadworthy, and drive it back down. 5a. Find a local goon/goon willing to travel, and do a repair blitz on the existing engine and drive it back. #5 is possible, as it sounds like the engine still turns over, but the head has been removed. If I did that however, it would be a loooooong loving drive. It's a straight six that produces somewhere south of 120HP. No highways, no high speed roads, no going over 50mph. I'm looking at least 3 solid days of driving on surface street. In a truck that's been sitting in field for a while. With no power steering, or power brakes. What could go wrong? 
ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 04:38 on May 21, 2016 |
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Apr 23, 2016 21:31
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Well I was planning to do an engine swap anyways once I got the restoration underway. I had been entertaining the idea of putting a Dodge V10 in there, assuming there's enough room to fit. But if a Chevy engine can be dropped in there without loving with engine mounts, that'd make doing a field engine swap a lot easier. Then I guess I can take both engines and sell them later. If I do end up attempting to drive it home it's not like I'll be hurting for space for spare parts 
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Apr 24, 2016 06:08
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So doing some cursory research it looks like a 350 should more or less drop in. The only issue seems to be fiddling with the steering box, but it appears that's easily rectified by drilling out the rivets and shimming it over a bit. So, I'm starting to put together a list of what would need to be done to get it road trip road worthy: 1. Replace the engine. A 350 is looking like the best candidate right now, as it seems to involve the least amount of work, and there seems to be plenty of aftermarket parts for things like engine mount swaps. Also, based on what I've read, it does seem to mount to the stock transmission, so that will mean no having to fiddle around with a new tranny, crossmember, or having to redo the whole driveshaft as well. 2. Switch over to a 12V power system. 3. Replace the rear wheels. The old one are split rims, and yeah, good luck finding a tire shop for that. 4. Possibly may need to add an electric fan for the radiator, will most certainly need to make some sort of shroud though, as it seems like the V8 block is shorter than the I6 5. Inspect the brakes, replace as necessary. I'm thinking, assuming that the brakes aren't totally locked up, I'll be replacing everything on the fronts (springs, pistons, and new drums) and at least the springs on the back. In short:  Someone please talk me down from the edge.
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Apr 24, 2016 20:59
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Yeah, I'm thinking anything with rubber in it that's essential to the engine is going to need to be replaced for the drive. And yeah, the "fuel system" is more than likely gonna be a tank strapped to the bed with some hose running out of it, I hadn't thought about steering all that much though. After talking to the PO some more he says it rolls and steers just fine, but I guess I'll just have to find out when I get there. It doesn't have power steering though, so trying to move a 20' truck around is gonna be fun.
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Apr 25, 2016 00:44
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Slung Blade posted:I can't wait to see how this turns out, it's gonna be awesome. That IS the plan.
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Apr 25, 2016 20:53
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Well poo poo. Got a phone call from the current owner today. Guy who was supposed to be trailering the truck to Minnesota apparently really underestimated its weight, and ended up bottoming out his trailer trying to move it. So truck remains in Montana, and I guess I have to figure out some way to get it.....somewhere. Any farm owning Midwestern goons have some space available? All you have to do is hold it, it'll be shipped there!
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Apr 29, 2016 00:23
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Dagen H posted:What part of the Midwest? I'm open to any part of the midwest. Any thing that doesn't involve shipping costs in the $3000+ range I'd the goal here. Garbage Dick posted:Serious offer pay my way start to finish and i'll ride shotgun with tools. I need no compensaton otherwise.  I'm listening.
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Apr 29, 2016 16:47
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leica posted:Holy poo poo, take this man's offer immediately, no other mechanic I'd rather have riding shotgun. I'll take all the help I can get! I'm in Orlando, College Park area.
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Apr 29, 2016 17:10
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Well then, I guess the plan has changed: Priority 1: Get truck to Ohio Priority 2: Get Dick to Ohio Priority 3: Get my rear end to
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Apr 29, 2016 19:14
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Nomex posted:Film this and put it on Youtube. You'll get enough hits to make some money I'm sure. If we're going to be doing this kinda stuff as a way to get this thing across the country, the best option is obviously to fly Dick out to New England, get kastein's 5 Ton running, drive that out, and tow the dump truck with that.  Although doesn't Doccers live in Washington now? Besides, if I could afford a bus and trailer I'd just pay the like $3500 to have it shipped straight to FL Anways, I guess right now the main challenge is getting it to Ohio. Dagen, if you are serious, can you email me some details about your place? Like address, so I can throw something up on Uship ExplodingSims2@gmail.com And Dick, I will totally take you up on that offer. Consider that plane ticket bought. Feel free to email me for details. Keep in mind the actual fixing won't be happening for at least another month or so, as I have A. Get this thing shipped B. Find a motor C. Buy all the other parts D. Still got bills to pay
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Apr 30, 2016 04:29
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Well, I threw up a page on Uship for shipping to Ohio. So now we wait. Unless any goons have or know someone with a large truck an trailer who're up for a road trip. I'll pay for gas!
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Apr 30, 2016 16:56
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Well, a bit of progress has been made, I found a carrier who isn't like stupid expensive, so once I get this finalized we should get things rolling!
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May 1, 2016 01:18
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djdanno13 posted:Just throwing this out there in case poo poo, but if Ohio doesn't work out you can have your truck shipped to my place out in northern Nebraska. I have a few tools but word of warning, it's all dirt, no crete. Shoot me an email, that might be significantly cheaper. ExplodingSims2@gmail.com
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May 1, 2016 18:42
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Oh yeah, new tires and rims are high on the agenda. Bias plies and split rims do not make for the good times.
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May 2, 2016 01:14
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Alright, so progress is being made! Truck officially has a shipper, and will be sent down to djdanno's place in Nebraska. The move is set to go down this weekend, assuming that the shipper actually has a trailer that's heavy duty enough to pull it down there. Siochain posted:ITT I learn that he'll fill the box on his dumptruck with AI Goons wanting to help.  kastein posted:Words about fixin' Yeah, a full replacement of everything rubber is on the agenda. Motor will definitely be replaced, and I'm trying to research which engine bolts in with the least amount of hassle. Once it gets to danno's it'll be easier, since I'll be able to get more accurate information about the engine/trans/whatever. If the old motor's in salvageable I'll hang on to it and sell it later. I plan on replacing everything on the front brakes, springs, shoes, drums cylinders, and will probably do the same to the rears as well. And also I'd like to change it over to a dual master cylinder, 'cause this thing ain't a stoppin' easily if anything fails. Electrical I'm not too concerned about, because 50's car wiring. As long as the lights work I'm happy. It'll just be a 12V conversion, and that shouldn't be hard.
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May 3, 2016 22:54
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Sorry dude, but shipping costs to Nebraska are $$$. Compared to $$$$to hauling to Ohio.
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May 3, 2016 23:25
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Well, no actual work will be happening for a while, so if you want to make plans there's plenty of room for more hands.
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May 6, 2016 03:08
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WHEN WE LAST LEFT OUR HERO: It was rusting away in a field in the middle of nowhere!  But as of today, this is no more! PROGRESS HAS BEEN MADE  Yes, now it's rusting away in a slightly different field in the middle of nowhere! Big thanks to Djdanno for hosting the truck. It was shipped out to his place today, and this will be the site of the repairening Still waiting on some new pics of it, but we get some updates:  Free bottle of oil! Score! Old engine is there, but according to danno, is pretty trashed, much to no one's surprise. No brakes on this thing either, again, no shocker there. Tire are there, and appear to be ok, but I wouldn't trust them on the road.   And a first ever look into the bed!  Free plywood? Today is a loving haul! Upskirt shot:  Again, there will be more later, but for the most part, the body looks pretty solid. Some rust in the usual places, floorboards, around the edges, but for the most part it looks like it's mostly just surface rust. A few dents and dings as well, but overall in pretty great shape for a farm truck of it's age.  Cheby
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May 9, 2016 00:37
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88h88 posted:Is patina staying or will this be getting a top down overhaul? Yeah, once it eventually gets back to Florida the plan is to do full resto-mod on it. But that's a while out. I do plan to save the drivers side door at least, since I've give 14" the go ahead to use it as a canvas for his special flavor of artistic vision.
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May 9, 2016 15:11
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Someone else can buy that one....Then: RESTORATION RACE GOOOOOOOO
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May 12, 2016 02:57
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Liquid Communism posted:http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/5559820967.html ishikabibble posted:Presented without comment. You guys are thinking in the wrong direction, for you see, for my next bad truck purchase things will be going up, uP, UP! Over the engine 
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May 12, 2016 23:54
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I don't have square, but I do have PayPal. larrywiedefeld@yahoo.com In other news, I'm waiting to for djdanno to hit me up with some new pics of the engine and stuff, to try to start putting together a shopping list for engines. Been reading up on the stovebolt place about swaps, and it looks like pretty much most SBC motors up to about 1986 plug in without too much trouble. I'm getting conflicting reports about the bellhousing though. Some most V8's can plug right in, but then this guy is saying not so much: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/bellhousings.html Of course, remember what people were saying about a school bus earlier? http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_swap2_302.htm ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 00:05 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 00:02
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A POTENTIAL ENGINE HAS BEEN FOUND According to Djdanno, he has someone who's selling a cheap 1967 292 I6. Not as exciting as a V8, but doing some cursory research it looks like it drops in without too much hassle. If the stovebolt forums were less terrible I'd have an answer by now!
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May 16, 2016 00:24
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Leperflesh posted:And it only has to get the truck back to Florida, it doesn't have to be a permanent solution. Yeah, this is the goal right now, find an engine that can work with the current transmission and doesn't require a lot of loving around to get in there. Once it's back in Florida however, then it's time to put the biggest engine possible in it. 
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May 16, 2016 02:00
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kastein posted:Most of them have had the multifuel compensators removed by now and they are incredibly heavy, fuel hungry, gutless, unreliable pieces of poo poo. Put literally anything else in there. Source: I own one and want it out of my truck with all undue haste. Yeah this is what I'm really afraid of. Because if the transmission is shot then this is going to turn into a real problem because as I understand it this truck has a closed driveshaft and switching to it anything more modern like past 1959 is going to require strict transitioning to an open driveshaft. Which of course means having the switchover the drive shaft the rear differential , tires,etc. According to Danno the transmission seems halfway decent though. Tommychu posted:Look guys, we can talk about which cylinder configuration of 2-stroke Detroit is the correct engine for the truck when he's got it safely home. Until then let's focus on the important stuff. Nothing with less than 10 cylinders will do. E. Gas or Diesel ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 23:18 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 22:16
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Yeah. Here's the best answer I've seen about open vs. closed driveshafts: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/can-someone-please-explain-to-me-open-drive-vs-closed-drive-rear.465627/ Some dude on the HAMB posted:A closed driveshaft looks like this-the torque tube is a large, hollow tube that is attached (fixed-it doesn't move) to the rear end and the transmission-it physically ties them together. The drive shaft is a seperate piece, inside the torque tube. The torque tube does not rotate-it is instead a part of the rear suspension. Someone much smarter than me will tell us what it does. An open drive shaft is the most common-it serves no function other than to transfer power from the trans to the rear end and "floats" (slides) back and forth a little on the spline trans shaft as the rear end move up and down. Hope this helps. The reason to change is almost always due to the fact that old cars had high gear ratios and new transmissions are made to work with open drive shafts.
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May 16, 2016 23:16
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Wow. This thread is going places (And not just cornfields in the middle of nowhere!) Ok so everyone who wants to add sticks and levers and pedals, I should remind you that this is the existing setup:   Veeb0rg posted:Then lets throw in a 2 speed rear end as well. This was a factory option. (At least on the 6400 series. Which it turns out this is not) Decoding the vin revealed a terrible secret. This is not in fact a 6400 as I was lead to believe, but a 4400. Minor difference, but basically the same truck in the end. And here's some more pics of the engine cause I don't have any real progress of which to speak so far.   Lookit them linkages! And djdanno was nice enough to brave the underside of the truck to get some shots of it:   14 BAR RIFF posted:This truck shall be my career's swan song You must make it to Orlando, for here, your chariot lies sleeping, awaiting your arrival:  
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May 18, 2016 22:25
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So, I've been talking to Dick. We've been brainstorming things to do for this trip, and after seeing how many goons want to make this happen, we came up with IDEAS We want to give something back for your donation, more than just the sheer entertainment value of this trip, so, for your donation, you can get REWARDS. Yes, we put together a GofundMe thingy, https://gofundme.com/25ctjtx8 Yes, for your money you can get a cheap post card, or a lovely piece of paper that Dick's blasted with his creative juices. or a surprise art Canned Ham Radio posted:So what part of Nebraska did this beast end up in? I am in St.Pete, Florida and find myself considering a road trip to act as a chase vehicle... Filming the epic journey on my go pro.. Hey, if you want to come along, and provide transportation, I'll happily pay for gas! By God, we're gonna get this done. There is no plan for failure, either this works, and we make in the Florida in one piece, or we break down in the midwest and become farmers! ChickenOfTomorrow posted:AI's gonna do what they say can't be done.
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May 21, 2016 02:45
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Sooo, apparently, if I understand it correctly, the existing transmission in the truck, a Muncie SM420, can made to bolt up to a Jeep 4.0... https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/sm420/ Learn something new every day. E. The 420 is relatively simple to rebuild. Many shadetree mechanics do very outstanding rebuilds if they have access to a press, snap ring pliers and bearing pullers. Many choose to do a full rebuild during the adaptation process, and our instruction guides feature all the details, diagrams, pics and tricks required to do professional level work Got some more tools to add to the pile. Leperflesh posted:I'm in for a miserly ten bucks. You guys are going to regret having to mail thirty or forty things to goons but that will be entertaining to watch, too. It's only a handful of postcards and letter, can't be that bad! WHAT COULD GO WRONG.
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May 22, 2016 00:00
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It's yours! I'll be willing to sell of any other engine parts goons may want as well.
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May 22, 2016 16:46
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Alright, so I guess the 292 is out of the running for replacement motor. It has staggered motor mounts, and requires fabbing up some angled brackets and OTHER STUFF THAT'S TOO HARD TO DO IN A FIELD. And it also requires swapping over to a V8 Bellhousing anyways. And the make a weld in mount kit for 350 engines as it is. Also, V8 Bellhousings are surprisingly common and cheap on eBay. Aside from some clearance issues with the radiator and steering column, it looks like an easy enough job. So I guess we're back to shopping for a 350. Any suggestions on the best vehicle to pull one from?
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May 22, 2016 22:12
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So apparently the V8 swap is meant to be. Turns out the bellhousing I need for a V8 truck is on eBay and pretty cheap. Now I just need to find an engine. And brakes. And wheels. ALMOST THERE! Also, I'd really like to say thank you for everyone who donated to the GoFundMe. You guys are so super awesome, and that thing went way higher than I ever thought it would! I can assure you that we will put this money to great use! E; Leperflesh posted:I'm just thinking of the likely scenario that a cop pulls over to investigate the shitheap truck being actively mechaniced on the side of a state highway at 11pm on a tuesday, and there's any legal paperwork that isn't completely above the board. The truck being from one state, all drivers being from other states, and any registration being from yet another random state. I suppose that cop is not super likely to check for matching VINs on engine blocks or whatever. I don't know, I live in California where you can't just randomly swap engines into things, and I'm also automatically leery of any situation where the "owner" can't adequately prove their ownership of the thing they're selling. I'm not super worried about this, as I do have the title for it, and it is a clear title. I need to get off my rear end and have it transfered over to me though. But otherwise, it will be titled, plated, and insured in Florida, so everything should be good to go. As good as you can be in a 60yo truck making a cross country journey anyways.
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May 27, 2016 02:14
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Elephanthead posted:You can buy an intake that will let that Buick have a distributor and carb. All you need then is a hot wire to make it go and some gas. Do yo have a link for said kit? scuz posted:Do y'all have any inklings as to timing on the project? Before winter hits the midwest, obviously, but I had mentioned that I'd be able to take a triangle route to St. Louis and drop off an engine if it would help: Well, I'm trying to shoot for sometime around August, but nothing's set in concrete. Though having this on hand would help immensely. If you do buy it, save the bellhousing as well. We'll need that.
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May 27, 2016 23:02
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So, surprisingly, Rockauto carries the wheel cylinders for the 1.5 ton trucks, but nothing else. And we are go for a V8 swap. Ordered the mounting kit for the brackets. Now we just need an engine. *Nevermind, found the springs while typing this post up. I guess finding tires will the be the next bit expense. I found 7.50x20 tubes at a agri-supply place, so we might be running tractor tires on this thing.
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May 30, 2016 22:32
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Yeah, I looked into a disc swap, and while it can be done, it involves a fair bit of work and possibly changing the front rims as well. Which IS something I'd like to do eventually, but that's for when I have plenty of free time to work, measure, engineer, and get frustrated and walk away. For now, the goal is get things up and running as quickly as possibly, without too much parts swapping. Though upgrading to a two stage master cylinder is definitely on the agenda.
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May 31, 2016 17:35
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Elephanthead posted:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-24502592 It's tempting, but if Scuz does buy that Roadmaster, it'd probably be easier all around, since depending on what he needs from the car, I can harvest some of the other parts needed as well. Radiator, hoses, bell housing, etc. Plus, it just seems right for one car to be sacrificed so the truck may come back from the dead. Ancient rituals and whatnot. Speaking of which, if you're still semi-serious about buying that Scuz, shoot me an email. explodingsims2@gmail.com
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Jun 1, 2016 03:00
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So today I bought one of the most important parts of any car project: SWEET HOOD BLING   In other news, talks have been in happening with Scuz, and it looks like we are go for using the Roadmaster for parts, but we've hit a bit of a snag in the moving Logistics. So, he's willing to either: 1. drive them all the way to the jobsite, if he can find a place to crash for the night along the way, or 2. Have somone meet him in Sioux Falls/Sioux City for the final leg Worst comes to worst, I'm totally willing to pay for a hotel for the night, and guarantee him that it will be nothing but the finest, seediest, hourly rate motel money can buy. So if anyone has a couch to spare, it'd be appreciated, but not necessary. kastein posted:That Roadmaster has a completely different transmission (700R4 or 4L60e I think?) than the 1951 truck - and not only that it's auto vs manual. I'm not sure why the bellhousing is on the list? I reed gud.  Not that it matters, Chevy V8 truck bellhousing are plentiful and cheap on eBay it would seem, so this is a non-issue. It would seem Chevy didn't change much WRT bolt patterns from about 1940 - 1999. As for carb vs. EFI. I think this engine's gonna be carbed for now, especially since they make that conversion plate for it. One less thing to wire and have to worry about. Though later on in it's life, when I have time to play with it, with a different engine, I probably will step it up to some kinda injection apparatus.
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Jun 4, 2016 00:58
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Perhaps we could, but this just seems like a good deal for what it is, since it'll provide other parts, like the radiator, appropriate hoses, etc for pretty much the same price. Also, ADVENTURE. But I'm keeping my options open. We won't be getting out there til after summer anyways, so plenty of time for other options to pop up. kastein posted:I'm hoping this won't be an issue, but double check crank flange offset from the BH face on the LT1 vs whatever V8 would have gone on the truck bellhousing you intend to use. I don't know if they will be the same, though I think the weird length ones are from the early 00s and are some LQ4s/9s not LT1s. Still, would suck to find out too late to do anything about it. Yeah, I'm trying to learn as much as I can about this before I head out there. According to the stovebolt people, most stuff, post 1986, should bolt up with a minimum of issues. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/bellhousings.html Here's their take on it: Stovebolt Dude posted:Almost all trucks came with the 14" 168 tooth flywheel drilled for either the 10 1/2" or the 11" clutch. There may have been a few drilled for both sizes, but no one I talked with has ever seen one. If we yank one out of a similar late model Chevy, it should fit. Junkyard HO! E^2: Cheap and plentiful online it would seem. Awesome. As far as the input shaft goes: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/sm420 Novak Dude posted:The common GM SM420 has a 1-1/8" diameter, ten spline input shaft that has a stick-out of 6-1/2" from the front face of the transmission. The pilot tip is ~19/32" in diameter. The front bearing retainer flange measures 4-11/16" and the bearing retainer tube is 1-3/8" in diameter. The front bolt pattern is the consistent GM Muncie / Saginaw four-bolt pattern as found on GM bellhousings and transmissions from the 1940's through the 1990's. VV Crap, you're right. TO THE JUNKYARD! VV ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 4, 2016 23:46
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kastein posted:Just buy new... flywheels are cheap. Not worth dicking around pulling an engine or trans in the yard to get at the drat flywheel. Looks like a Sachs NFW1023 for a 93 K2500 with the small V8 has the right tooth count and is 56 bucks on RA, not sure it is the right one but prices are usually around that much for single mass cast iron flywheels. So, I looked that up. and here's the info on it: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1383877&jsn=791 This is the one you're talking about right? 14.25" so it might be a hair bigger than the original, but I can't seem to find any exact info on the originals. Most say 14", but I'm not sure if that's exact. I guess as long as it bolts to a 11" clutch it'll be fine. But more research is to be done. Also looks like a different starter will have to be used, once I locate the appropriate bellhousing to fit all this. Now this is the recommended type of bellhousing to use with 350 swaps. (At least according to the internet) http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-62-Che...aJXTJUm&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cast-Iron-B...5pXPicL&vxp=mtr ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 21:28
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Can someone explain the difference difference between the LT1 in a Roadmaster and and LT1 in a Corvette? Can I use the flywheel for a Corvette in this engine? Granted, it will take the tooth count down to 153, but apparently Chevy used a flywheel with 153 toothcount in an earlier run. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/bellhousings.html Stovebolt dude posted:There are three common starter bolt patterns for the V8 or late six. The earlier ones bolt to the bellhousing with three bolts. All those are for the 168 tooth flywheel. The other two types bolt up from the bottom and to the engine block. The starter with the two bolt holes 90 degrees to the crankshaft is for the 153 tooth flywheel. The starter with the bolt holes about 45 degrees to the crankshaft is for the 168 tooth flywheel. So I guess the trick then would be finding the right bellhousing/starter combo? Or am I'm just sleep deprived and missing something obvious here?
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Jun 6, 2016 03:46
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