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Dagen H posted:10R22.5s on standard Budd wheels. I'd go 11R22.5s if they fit, or maybe a 19.5 otherwise. 10R22.5 is a great size if you like waiting on a backorder and only ever running XZEs. Were it me I'd keep the splits (Kumho even makes a 10.00R20 so you don't have to suffer the bias plies) but I'm one of 3 people I know who I trust 100% to work with them safely.
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May 2, 2016 02:17
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Yeah it's a matter of thorough cleaning, inspection and making sure everything's seated (also peeling the ring off without putting too much tension on it, a sprung lock ring is bad). It's one of those things where it's really easy to kill yourself but it's also really easy to not kill yourself. efb, 13" knows what's up, they are what they are. Any tire is dangerous anyway, of the 6 serious blowout incidents I had to do paperwork for 4 were radial tires on drop center wheels. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 03:59 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 03:52
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Christ almighty I feel like someone slipped amphetamines into AI's Raisin Bran this year and now we're all just trying to turn it up to 11. I had a 5" knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder, severe crusty scale-y poo poo gets chipped with medium-light hits with the ball peen first. A regular wire brush and any hammer-like object would do if you aren't doing 'em all day every day.
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May 2, 2016 04:02
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Garbage Dick posted:Isn't this the lock ring? And tires from 1998 BEST CASE scenario. Yep, and it's a decent 3 piece wheel. gently caress knows what it looks like on the inside but it's not a widowmaker by design at least. Goodyear definitely stopped putting those diamonds on the sidewalls of their on-road offerings before 1998. 78 is my guess. Wouldn't run those to the 7-11 and back. Good news: 7.50-20 is a drat close match to a 255/70R22.5 which is very easy to find. Doesn't look like a standard Budd wheel though, finding a 22.5 wheel in that pattern could get interesting.
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May 10, 2016 03:04
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kastein posted:Dumb question, why can't you use stud-piloted wheels with conical lug nuts and forget about the whole issue, rather than all this goofy poo poo about making a hub adapter and keeping the flat hub-piloted lug nuts? Are the lug studs not precisely located on the hub-piloted hubs/drums or something? I've never really understood this, if everything is well designed and accurately machined either should work as long as the right lug nuts are used. Put singles on it though, and you can stud pilot all day long. Hell, the truck even has conical nuts on it, but they don't act on the wheels themselves, there's actually a plate between the nut and wheel. It's one of those weird GM things, they did that into the mid-'90s on their hub piloted duallies. Likely just cheaper than using flanged nuts.
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May 14, 2016 04:40
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Look guys, we can talk about which cylinder configuration of 2-stroke Detroit is the correct engine for the truck when he's got it safely home. Until then let's focus on the important stuff.
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 04:33 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 04:31
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Title says Bad Decisions ITT, not Boring Decisions ITT I mean at that point you might as well go Dear John. At least then you get a hat. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 04:58 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 04:52
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CommieGIR posted:I support the two stroke Detroit with a dual shifter box. 5&4s are heavy, hard to find and a horrendous pain to operate. The novelty would wear off quickly. I like the Eaton Synchro 6 in trucks like these.
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May 17, 2016 03:02
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Fermented Tinal posted:You have to keep the parking brake setup exactly as it is. If only to avoid the mesothelioma. I imagine you have to adjust it every time you have to pull the lever, and replace the shoe if you ever make the mistake of pulling it while moving. Looks way more serviceable than the modern ones though. Standard driveline is a very good sign.
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May 19, 2016 07:22
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14 BAR RIFF posted:This thread is this song irl As long as it doesn't turn into Schism we'll be alright I think.
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Jun 2, 2016 05:35
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Depends on the quality of your local water supply. Some places the water is perfectly fine for coolant use. There's a few papers floating around with standards and such. I know that here in Calgary in the winter and late summer, our tapwater is well within most of the acceptable limits (spring we spike because we're right under the mountains and the runoff is full of minerals). Not that it matters to me, I'm lazy and use premix.
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Oct 11, 2016 05:27
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daslog posted:I don't know much about non-subarus, never mind a truck like this. What are the odds that this thing runs and drives at this point? The engine ran well enough in the van to get Sims to the truck. Rest of the powertrain is big dumb tractor parts, a not insignificant amount of it is brand new iron that Sims has been stockpiling through the planning phase, also did you loving see what 14" and the Jeep did to get to Nebraska? Re: the pump, what's in there is probably half water and half spiders due to lovely crusty foam breathers being common, if not check the breather and flush with a jug of Dex2/3 (because it's got a better shot at freeing the probably stuck pistons) and a pail or 6 of regular modern whatever the farm supply store has cheapest hydraulic oil (because it's cheap). Everything will leak. Don't go near a leak that has pressure behind it because gangrene but you knew that already. And a quick visual on the hoses, it's pretty obvious when they're rotten. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 05:01
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14 BAR RIFF posted:It's got actual oil of some form coming out of the input shaft seal, so itll need a re seal Id wager. Didnt start leaking until I removed the mud seal. Dex 2? Hahahahaha good luck finding whale oil friction modifier. Will be getting full driveshaft to Napa for a quote on new ?U joints ffront to rear. Whale oil was dex1. The stuff I use for unsticking poo poo says dex2/3 on the bottle. Shoulda just said dex3 though my bad.
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Nov 5, 2016 16:52
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Nov 6, 2016 03:18
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ExplodingSims posted:I really don't understand how a company as lovely as Greyhound can exist in 2016. Ruthlessly anti-competitive and generally scummy corporate practices to which governments turn a blind eye "because they provide a meaningful public service"* basically guarantee their existence well into forever. Glad they found your poo poo anyway. *I mean that's a legit argument but these guys are VERY well represented in government is all im sayin
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Nov 6, 2016 18:49
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14 BAR RIFF posted:*start of lonely island great day* IDUNNOWHY BUT IT FEELS LIKE ITS GONNA BE A GREAT DAY *m80 used for sounding plug detonates* i cant loving breathe
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Nov 24, 2016 19:58
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What about the vanifolds? If they're not the ones that interfere with the spark plugs while upside down one of the two might work there?
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Nov 27, 2016 |
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Nov 27, 2016 00:32
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Pipe thread into the water jacket RH side of the block, just ahead of the starter and dipstick and just above the oil pan flange is indeed a knock sensor on these and it sure af looks like every GM knock sensor I've ever seen. hosed up place for it but that's what you get slapping EFI on a motor from the 50s as cheaply as possible.
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Dec 2, 2016 00:31
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Deteriorata posted:Mid 40s to mid 50s were notably frumpy and awkward. This but ~59-65, excluding pickups. In the forties they had a reason to look like they did, they were just trying to make something new out of the old tooling while transitioning the factories back to cars from wartime production (and some properly beautiful cars did happen during the period). Wasn't much of an excuse for what happened in the early 60s.
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Dec 3, 2016 04:09
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:What about the vanifolds? If they're not the ones that interfere with the spark plugs while upside down one of the two might work there? called it
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Dec 11, 2016 00:41
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It's like a stover, except the bolt's deformed instead of the nut
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Dec 12, 2016 05:14
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Remember you have to get the bead down a ways before the ring will give you anything. I need pics to give you any better advice than that, not sure what you mean by stretch ring.
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 21:39
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I'm so loving sorry your first split rim experience is with these. ok solid ring/semi drop wheels are unicorn poo poo and the biggest oval office on the planet. You're going to need some thin prybars (or make do with found/makeshift tools), anything meant for automotive use is going to be too thick. There are special bars for split rims that would be suuuuuuuuper handy though. You're going to need to get the bead pushed down as far as you can go so you've got enough room. I'd recommend using a hilift or something, hammer the plate of the jack under the ring flange and then try to tlift something heavy, should get the tire mobile. there will be a bit of a drop center just below the seat that gives you exactly enough room to get the ring off, but only if it's in exactly the right position. you'll have to fiddlefuck with it for a bit. You will say gently caress. There may be blood. If you get them on, make sure those 3 are on the rear. Air them up to 20 psi, then bolt them on and finish airing up. that way if one lets go, it just hits the other tire. one more thing, DO NOT put too much prying force on that ring, it's painfully easy to wreck the wheel that way with these stupid fuckin things. if it's not moving under moderate force there's not enough room and you need to try another angle. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 22:00
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So you're trying to get the bead over a big ole ridge of rust just inside it. Not entirely unlike the bead retainer 'hump' on a passenger wheel. You've pretty much got to break it all up. I should have mentioned earlier, mixing up some coke (or if you can find a better source of phosphoric acid -that's not going to swell the rubber, no panther piss- use that, cola's just easier to find) and glycol and letting it soak for a bit should help. When you've got force on it with the high lift give the tire some sharp blows all the way around with a sledge or some poo poo. wedge as much metal as you can underneath the lock ring. Worst case, there's no steel in that tire except the bead bundle so you could presumably gash the tire with a sawzall, get in there and remove the rust in person but that may make getting the rest of the tire off more difficult. You'd have to destroy the flap doing this too and it doesn't look like the new ones came with flaps, so consider this a last resort. I've played with Samsons before, gently caress their 16.5s forever but their 20s are not bad. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 03:01
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Jesse Ventura posted:C'mon guys, we can raise the level of discourse around here. Other car forums sound so much smarter ford dash trucks dot com is like if everyone on vwvortex was romantically interested in their own family members also split rims are awesome and safe and nbd Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 05:37
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Slide hammer bead breaker. Kind of expensive for a single use, it took me 3 years to even convince the tire shop I worked for to get me one. e: $120. Huh. The tool I used 98% of the time though was this: http://www.kentool.com/index.php/products/bead-breakers/t11d-35327-t11e-35329-wood-handled-duck-billed-bead-breaking-wedge-detail and it's a fuckton more versatile and user friendly. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 05:43
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it's called a bead ax and if you don't love it you're swinging it wrong. 
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Dec 20, 2016 06:00
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:LET'S GET DOWN TO BUSINESS I immediately thought of that one too.
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Dec 20, 2016 06:54
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Finding a shop that will take on split rims is one thing, but one willing to deal with solid ring split rims is extremely rare. Most people who saw these on a regular basis are retired and likely in the ground by now, frankly. And in my 7 years in the business I met 2 people with the balls to try, hell it was only in the last year or so I got the confidence to gently caress with solid rings, and I got to the point of not only confidence in, but enjoyment of split rims 4 years prior to that point. I mean it doesn't hurt to ask around and there's no fuckin shame in paying for changeovers in this case but that'd be quite lucky and he's gotta be prepared to see this phase through because it might be his only choice. I'd see about maybe bringing a case of beer to a (truck/farm) tire shop and borrowing some proper tooling though, that will improve this experience massively. Wish I was there, I'm kind of a lovely teacher over the internet 
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 21:36
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Remember. clean clean clean clean clean. Rust is the enemy here. Also with radials and beads that close together the tubes and flaps will fight you a bit. air (not too much, enough that it holds its shape) in the tubes will help but the stem is going to want to rip the flap out when you're laying the tire down on the wheel. Stem will also want to squish between the bead and rim, make sure it's fully in the slot when you lay the tire down (alternately if the stem slot geometry allows it you can point the stems down, it will make this easier but you'll have to get under the truck to check pressures). Then lift and push forward on the stem side of the tire and let gravity push the opposite side of the tire down, the wheel will want to rip your flap out during this phase, you'll have to constantly push it back into the tire with an open hand. DO NOT PUSH THE TIRE DOWN HERE or the flap will gently caress off immediately.
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Dec 20, 2016 22:40
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Angle grind the tires off? I tried that once, it was slow and smelly and I gave up and fought with it the normal way.
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Dec 22, 2016 21:15
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Anuvin posted:e - For more info on throttle cables, this dude with a bad haircut will tell you how it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smI2ijg4KcM I prefer my throttle cable videos to be a little more practical: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzARBO7Zcnc
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Dec 24, 2016 05:26
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To put it another way, Sims can leave the SM420 in there when he puts his [8.1/454/Detroit/Cummins/LS/whatever] in it as long as he's ok with the ratios. they're tough as gently caress, as long as it's in not-completely-hosed condition the L05 will not break it.
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Dec 24, 2016 18:25
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JacquelineDempsey posted:ExplodingRims ( 14 BAR RIFF posted:Ragdoll, flippin' in a movie
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Dec 26, 2016 03:37
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TBF that one's slightly unrealistic, since it's a brand new undamaged 22.5 hooked up directly to a compressor with no regulator or governor of any sort, and aired up to failure (which happens at 3-400 PSI IIRC). Man_of_Teflon posted:also the head https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpOCcKUaUzU&t=252s
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Dec 26, 2016 06:07
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thanks for reminding me im not the most pedantic shitlord on this dead gay forum 
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Dec 26, 2016 07:20
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Leperflesh posted:DD13, DD15, DD16. Those are brand new Detroit Diesel options. DD13/15/16, 50/60 Series and to a lesser extent 6-71 are way too loving big unless we're looking seriously at an engine behind the cab or lifting/relocating the cab a few feet or whatever. And with a DD1x there's a fuckton of engine management going on, not like you can just throw a megasquirt at it and get down the road. Also I wouldn't want to be within a 5 mile radius of an $8000 DD15. efb kinda. DT466 would own if it fits. Or do a little 4-53T and go SCREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jan 11, 2017 |
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Jan 11, 2017 03:20
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ExplodingSims posted:I kinda like the sound of the DT466. Do you have some info on it's general dimensions? They're pretty big but not behemoths. It varies based on generation and configuration but 50" long, 30" wide, 45" tall (and the intake comes straight up out of the combination intake manifold/valve cover you'll find on the early electronic ones so factor some extra height in there, mechanically injected ones as well as the newer gen have a regular manifold) is a good overall ballpark.
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Jan 11, 2017 04:15
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IIRC It had the best exhaust, none at all.
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Mar 13, 2017 01:22
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Kazinsal posted:Dudes hitch-hike around while walking the Appalachian Trail with a backpack full of poo poo. I'm pretty sure you could find a way to get 50 pounds of tools and cat food to Valentine. 14 INCH GORP
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Apr 20, 2017 16:28
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