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I am building a fairly barebones desktop to replace my aging Lenovo T420s laptop (which never leaves the desk it sits in, anyway), which doesn't natively support 802.11ac and the $20 AC USB dongle I got for it isn't very reliable. The main use of this build will be streaming Steam games from my gaming PC that is hooked up to the living room TV. Here's what I tossed together from the OP parts. I plan to move the SSD from the laptop to this machine. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-7400 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI B150I GAMING PRO AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Jet) Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case ($40.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.98 @ Newegg) Total: $427.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-20 15:17 EDT-0400 Are there cheaper alternatives to the above that will work just as well?
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Mar 20, 2017 20:21
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Eletriarnation posted:You can save $100+ by getting a Pentium G4620 instead of that processor if it's just going to be a media/Steam streaming system. You could get a cheaper power supply but you're mainly paying for efficiency with what you have, which isn't bad. Make sure the motherboard will support Kaby Lake out of the box if you're going to get a 100-series, otherwise you'll need to borrow a Skylake chip from someone to reflash it. Ah, thanks for the advice on the BIOS. After looking into it further, I found a slightly newer mobo that supports Kaby Lake out of the box. Right now, it looks like the G4620 is about $10 cheaper than the i3-7100. I went ahead with the i3 in this case to get the Kaby Lake features, but would it still be worth it to save the extra $10? Here's my current build now: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-7100 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI B250I GAMING PRO AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($91.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case ($40.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.98 @ Newegg) Total: $359.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-20 16:57 EDT-0400
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Mar 20, 2017 21:59
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Eletriarnation posted:The G4620 is also Kaby Lake and is almost identical to the 7100 in terms of feature set. Here's the comparison: http://ark.intel.com/compare/97455,97460 Oh, d'oh, shows what I know  Thanks for your help! I will keep an eye on prices for both CPUs and go with whichever is cheapest by the time I buy. Might be a couple months out at this time.
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Mar 20, 2017 22:35
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Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this, but the following in the OP isn't exactly true anymore:quote:Only the Z270 motherboards allow RAM to run faster than 2133 Mhz, so if you have a H270 board there's no point in buying the faster stuff. Maybe other motherboards can too, but at least the Asrock H270M-itx/ac will run up to DDR-2400 at full speed as long as you also use a Kaby Lake CPU. Here's a crappy screenshot of my setup in Speccy: 
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Jul 29, 2017 05:35
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I'm feeling the random itch to upgrade something, but I'm not really having much trouble playing too many games at 1080p at a reasonable framerate and near-max settings. Here's my current setup: PCPartPicker part list CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L9i 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: ASRock - H270M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00) Memory: Team - Elite 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 840 EVO 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 980 4 GB Twin Frozr Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Fractal Design - Node 202 HTPC Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: Silverstone - 500 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-18 23:58 EDT-0400 Is there a video card worth upgrading to? Should I upgrade my RAM from the puny DDR-2400 speed? Maybe I should replace my 4-year-old SATA SSD with one of them newfangled NVMe doohickeys? I'd say I have $700 US to gently caress around with, but from what I've seen maybe I should just shut up and be fine as is until something breaks. I'm not foreseeing playing games at above 1080p60 anytime soon.
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Mar 19, 2019 05:07
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ItBreathes posted:Just wait. There aren't any compelling upgrades for 1080p and NVMe doesn't offer substantial advantages for day to day use. Thanks. I figured as much. I guess I can throw this money into one of my other ill-advised hobbies instead!
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Mar 19, 2019 17:57
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Stickman posted:Honestly, the biggest experience upgrade you could do for $700 would be to get a 1440p/*sync monitor and a 2060. The Nixeus Edj 27" V2 is currently the cheapest IPS option at ~$400, and 2060s start at $350. A 2060 at 1440p should have roughly the same performance as your 980 at 1080p (which is slightly better than the 1060). Your 980 should fetch ~$150-220 dollars going by ebay prices, so if you factor that in you could potentially even upgrade to a 2070. If you haven't tried out 1440p/high refresh monitors before, Best Buy or Microcenter generally have display models. I had considered this, but because I Am Very Weird my gaming PC is hooked up to the living room TV. There are unfortunately no plans to upgrade the TV anytime soon. On that note, are there 1440p TVs? I feel like TVs went straight from Full HD to 4K. Guess I will just wait until 4K gaming at 60FPS is reasonably priced in a few GPU generations
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Mar 20, 2019 05:11
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When I did my mini-ITX build about two years ago, I reused an existing graphics card, which is an open cooler design (MSI GTX 980 GAMING 4G). Ran cool and fairly quiet in its prior micro-ATX home, but now everything runs warmer, of course. Conventional wisdom says I should have a blower design in a mini-ITX build. I haven't experienced any heat-related failures (though my Noctua NH-L9i CPU fan inexplicably stopped spinning after a year of running fine), but should I still go ahead and replace my GPU with a blower design one, just in case?
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Mar 26, 2019 18:59
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orcane posted:What case? Blowers make sense if you're stacking GPUs with near zero space between them (eg. SLI setups for GPU compute) or if your case really really has no room and zero airflow, but usually people underestimate how lovely blower designs are. Yeah you're keeping the rest of the case cooler, but chances are you also have a jet engine next to you that still runs into the temp limit. I guess they're often (much) cheaper than open air coolers Fractal Design Node 202. There's very little room inside with all the stuff in it. Good point about the noise of a blower design. Instead of two fans running at, say, 75% speed, I'd have one fan running at 100% probably, with all the wind being forced through a narrower opening at the back of the case. The PC sits probably 10 feet away from my ears, though, as it sits behind the TV while I play from the couch.
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Mar 26, 2019 20:18
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Thanks for all the advice! I'll hop on over to the SFF thread and see if anyone's had any experience with a similar setup.
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Mar 26, 2019 23:22
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orange juche posted:There's a couple builds on Youtube that are relevant for building in a Node 202, the important thing would be to ensure you get fans for the GPU chamber, as you want as much air as possible coming in from outside to the GPU, and the gap between a 2 slot GPU and the side of the case is the same height as a 120mm fan, plus a few millimeters. If you don't do that, you'll be relying on the GPU pulling air from outside the case with no help from case fans, and that won't be good for case temps or your gpu temps. Yeah, I remember watching videos like that before building. I have two Fractal Design Venturi fans there now. Maybe they are why I haven't hit any thermal walls yet 
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Mar 27, 2019 04:38
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Lowness 72 posted:You know my processor probably is not overclocked. I vaguely recall the Asus Bios had like a "smart overclock" feature that I might be using but I'll check. In my experience, bumping down the Environment Details improved my performance immensely. I have an i5-7600, 16GB RAM, and a GTX 980, playing at 1080p with all other settings maxed out. Environment Detail is High. Framerate never seems to dip below 30 and usually stays above 45.
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Apr 2, 2019 05:39
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With a heinously large budget and the requirement for 3D rendering, there's no reason not to go with a 2080 Ti over the 2070. eta: Also 850W is probably much more than this build would ever need. If you want to save money for some reason, go for the 2080 Ti but get a 650W 80+ Gold certified modular PSU instead. Single-GPU builds have become surprisingly power efficient. HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Apr 19, 2019 |
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Apr 19, 2019 23:32
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Thinking of upgrading my GTX 980 to an RTX 2080 I'm leaning Seasonic as I'm more familiar with that name w.r.t. PSUs, plus the price difference is pretty negligible. Or maybe I can go all  and get this Corsair SF 750 W 80+ Platinum (maybe not)
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May 15, 2019 16:40
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Ragingsheep posted:Is 550w enough for a prospective 3700x + 2070/2080 system? Or should I go with 650w? End of financial year sales are start so I might as well get some parts if they go on sale. Should be fine for an RTX 2070 build, but I'd go 650 W for the 2080
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Jun 3, 2019 02:02
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Welp, I done did the foolish thing and got an RTX 2080 to pair poorly with my i5-7600. Seems like this setup is a nice little CPU bottleneck especially when playing AC Odyssey. What CPU would be best to upgrade to to resolve this unwise purchase? I'm thinking a 9th-gen i7, but maybe these newfangled Zen 2s are worth a look? I realize I'm pretty much into luxury money-wasting territory at this point, but in for a penny etc
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Jun 28, 2019 02:42
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orange juche posted:AC Odyssey is a CPU muncher of a game. 4 cores are gonna choke on that game. Most games are not like that, but anything in the Zen 2 stack will outperform your i5 7600 in both single and multi-core tasks. So, how much are you looking at spending, because you're going to need a new motherboard, and RAM even if you go with Intel instead of AMD. Aww nuts, none of the new guys will grok my DDR4-2400?  Hmm, I was thinking in the $500-600 range, ideally closer to the low end. That looks like it might make the Intel route a bit difficult if I have to get new RAM too
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Jun 28, 2019 04:24
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orange juche posted:AC Odyssey is a CPU muncher of a game. 4 cores are gonna choke on that game. Most games are not like that, but anything in the Zen 2 stack will outperform your i5 7600 in both single and multi-core tasks. So, how much are you looking at spending, because you're going to need a new motherboard, and RAM even if you go with Intel instead of AMD. HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Aww nuts, none of the new guys will grok my DDR4-2400? Guess my response got swallowed up in case-chat  Any thoughts?
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Jun 28, 2019 17:02
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ItBreathes posted:They'll work with your ram, but Ryzen's internal connections are tied to ram speed so it won't work nearly as well as it could. Either would benefit from faster ram. Good to know. I guess it would be better to get faster RAM with this upgrade instead of continuing my poor choices and bottlenecking the setup in new, exciting ways Thanks!
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Jun 28, 2019 17:49
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The 850W is still overkill. Definitely lean toward that over the 1kW.
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Jul 16, 2019 05:44
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mcbexx posted:I am currently running an i5-2500k@4.2 with a GTX970 on a 530W PSU (a couple of years old, I will get a 650W eventually for a new Ryzen build). This seems risky. NVIDIA recommends a 650 W power supply for the RTX 2070 Super, and your 530 W one is already a couple of years old. I would get the 650 W PSU to be on the safe side.
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Jul 16, 2019 15:34
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My wife's computer is showing its age (i5-2500k), and I think it's time for a refresh. Primary use is Photoshop image editing and browsing the Web with A Lot of tabs. The current issues with the MSI B450M motherboards' BIOS notwithstanding, would this be a cromulent build? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.00 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI - B450M GAMING PLUS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($99.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GT 640 2 GB Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Cooler Master - Elite 343 MicroATX Mini Tower Case w/420 W Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: Silverstone - 500 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $438.87 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-16 17:46 EDT-0400 The $0 items are parts I already have and will reuse in the build. I plan to migrate the OS from the current HDD (which I can't remember what it is exactly), but let me know if a fresh install would be better, especially since I'm going from Intel to AMD here.
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Jul 16, 2019 22:50
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Oh sweet, thanks!
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Jul 17, 2019 03:43
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Johnny Truant posted:So now that I've got my computer up, is the Secunia PSI link from the OP still up to date? The link goes to Flexera which seems to be a company for IT software jazz? Secunia PSI was discontinued a while back. I use Patch My PC now.
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Aug 6, 2019 05:11
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Elderbean posted:Putting a rig together for digital art, does this look kosher? I want to work in 4k, haven't chosen a display yet. The Ryzen 5 2600 does not have an integrated GPU, so you'll need to either get a dedicated GPU or the Ryzen 5 2400G. What kind of digital art would you be doing?
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Aug 7, 2019 21:52
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Elderbean posted:Whoops, forgot to mention I have a GPU (1060.) It would mostly be digital painting through PS. Ah, cool. That would be more than sufficient. In your digital painting use-case, you might actually benefit from 32GB RAM, depending on how many layers you'll be playing with. Here's your build but with 2x16 GB DDR4-3200 RAM: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WcpwGG
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Aug 7, 2019 22:20
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I need a UPS that will run two desktop computers and a single monitor each for at least a couple minutes in case of a blackout. One will do occasional gaming, but they're mainly Web surfers. Thinking about this CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD, but are there any other good options?
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Aug 18, 2019 05:18
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Rexxed posted:APC, cyberpower and tripp-lite are all decent. I've got a bunch of cyberpowers because they've been reliable for me including one of that model and I like it. It should be fine for a couple of light duty PCs and monitors. My gaming PC has a couple of minutes on a 1350VA with the video card and two big monitors going. I've had a couple of blackouts in the last month so it's been getting a lot of use. Cool, thanks. I've set up an alert for the CP1500PFCLCD
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Aug 18, 2019 15:00
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Bedshaped posted:My PC is really starting to chug with a few current gen games. I really want to buy a better GeForce card and hopefully restore my current machine to something that will keep lasting me for 1-2 more years. I feel like I got a much more overpowered CPU compared to GFX and I'm not even overclocking yet. In addition to the above poster's solid advice, a question: Any reason you're not upgrading to Windows 10?
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Aug 23, 2019 23:23
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The Rat posted:I've been in the same boat and looking at the Meshify S2 due to the lack of windowless C models. Of course now the windowless S2 has started being harder to find. Newegg has just stopped carrying them as of this weekend. How about this CoolerMaster N400? I have the smaller N200, but it looks like you want a mid-tower if you've been looking at the Meshify S2. edit: Never heard of them, but maybe this Cougar MX330-X will fit the bill too? HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Aug 27, 2019 |
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Aug 27, 2019 05:39
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Lightning Knight posted:this post was made from the new computer That was a ride to read. Glad it's all working now! How fast are fuckbois anyway 
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Sep 30, 2019 00:19
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Broose posted:-This Sabrent Rocket NVMe drive didn't come with any software or manual. Don't I need to over provision SSDs? If I do, how do I do that without software? If you're running Windows, open Disk Management and shrink the volume(s) on the disk so that you have whatever percentage of unallocated space (I think 10%?)
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Sep 30, 2019 15:45
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ZombieCrew posted:Kinda on topic. Is there a best way to get rid of old comps? Some I have are 15 years old. Just havent dealt with them yet. E-cycling or donating would be the best ways I could think of.
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Oct 4, 2019 04:23
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Lord Grundle posted:In hoping the CPU is fine after all this Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but modern CPUs (like, made within the past ten years at least) will safely throttle/shut themselves down if they get too hot, protecting themselves from damage. I think your CPU should be fine and will run as expected once you get a new cooler on it. eta: Something similar happened to me when my Noctua died less than a year after getting it. My case fans were tied to CPU temperature, so they were going full blast. I was mortified when I found out why they were doing that, but after replacing the fan my computer's been running just fine since.
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Nov 12, 2019 01:20
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