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distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Most other countries don't require permits for most internal works and there doesn't seem to be an epidemic of baby killing fires in idk France. They might have other setups, like licensing for specific types of work or mandatory guarantees but it's dumb that the city has to authorize a kitchen remodel.

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distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Why is bathroom stuff all so expensive. All the random bits like shower trays, tabs etc are like 2x the price I would have guessed.


Also, does anyone have a solid wood countertop? It fits best with our design for the kitchen and we love the look, but I'm a little worried about upkeep being a pain. Lots of people online say it's "fine" but I don't know if that's motivated reasoning since they've already spent the money. Key thing I've learnt so far is to get the tap integrated into the sink.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Queen Victorian posted:

We have a section of butcher block countertop (supported by sawhorses because our kitchen is a joke) and I actually like it a lot. Ours is the type that's basically an overgrown wooden cutting board, so it has a food-grade mineral oil finish that we clean with soap and water like a cutting board and re-oil periodically. Actually it's due for a light sanding + re-oil, I think. The one thing I dislike about it is that it's not end grain.

Once we get to redoing our kitchen, we're going to put end grain butcher block (with mineral oil finish) on the stove island so we can have an awesome work surface we can beat on and then sand and re-oil if it gets hosed up. Going about it this way means accepting that the surface will not remain pristine and will eventually come to be scarred with nicks, knife marks, and stains, but to me that's a huge part of the charm and appeal. I've never been a fan of the idea that a kitchen counter needs to be perfect and shiny at all times.

The other type of wood countertops I'm aware of are ones that are sealed with waterproof stuff that makes them pretty and shiny but kinda defeats the point of them being wood because you can't treat them like cutting boards anymore.

PS: I'd be wary about putting butcher block directly around a sink.

Thanks (and hobbez too). Having just a section of the work surface in wood sounds like a great compromise, I'll see if I can work that into the plans. We were worried about the kitchen being a bit sterile looking without the wood so it getting worn would be ideal!

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


My bank accounts now substantially lighter but on the plus side I can post here! All the tradesmen have like 3 month backlogs so it's going to take a long time to get stuff sorted out.

The air con guy was suggesting we get a central air con unit instead of minisplits, so that it could all go in the attic instead of outside. We're not in a particularly extreme temperature location (rarely below zero or above ~34°C) and there's only two of us - given that we don't have any existing ducts it doesn't seem like a great idea?

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Queen Victorian posted:

Is the guy aware of the lack of ducts in the house? Or was he thinking just adding ducting in the attic space? Also mini splits are just the wall-mounted thingy, tubing that can be hidden in the walls, and the little condenser outside. With central AC you would still need to put a (bigger) condenser outside..

I mean, little vent registers would be better than the bulky wall-mounted interior unit of a mini split, but that means ripping up your walls and ceilings to add ductwork (if ducting beyond attic space is necessary for the central system).

I also have no ductwork in my house, and I asked my construction dad about the expense and practicality off adding ducting for a proper central AC system (to exist alongside our hot water radiators, of course, which deliver the best heat and which I'd never replace with inferior forced air), and he said it would be prohibitively expensive and a massive pain in the rear end (especially since our house is three stories). We have a couple window units right now but are looking at a mini split.

Thanks! He had some design where almost all of the machinery could go in the attic with a little bit outside, coming through the roof. It's not a huge house and the way it's laid out I don't think much ducting would be required once the pipework for the old toilet is removed.

I prefer heating from mini splits to base boards/radiators so if central air is even worse than that I think we'll just go with the minisplits. That's what everyone else around here has as well, we were mildly interested in not having the external unit at the front but didn't really realize he meant central air at first.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


I've never owned a fridge with an ice maker or water dispenser, and don't really get why integrated ones are worth it. They seem to cause no end of trouble and perfectly good, cheap alternatives are available as independent products.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Picking tiles for bathrooms is impossible. They're all almost identical in the shop and the lighting is completely different to at home. Just gonna get 3 white samples and call it a day

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


redreader posted:

We have 2 rooms (one above the other) that get REALLY REALLY hot when the sun is out. They bear the brunt of the sun and the rest of the house isn't so bad. They have blinds, and closing them makes very little difference. The only solution I can currently think of is blowing air in or out to or from the rest of the house, or turning on the AC. What is a normal solution for this kind of thing? They both have ceiling fans which are generally turned on a fair amount.

I presume by blinds you mean interior ones? The normal solution here (in Europe) is exterior shutters - they work extremely well. You can either get nice looking manual French style ones or electric ones. I presume that if you are willing to spend $$$ nice looking electric ones exist as well.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Upgrade posted:

so I still kind of hate having radiators, but I have to say that when its 0 degrees outside (which happens once or twice a year) its nice to be sitting at 73 degrees inside while a family member with only a heat pump can't break 60

What's their insulation like? A heat pumps performance doesn't go to zero at that sort of temp, modern ones should still be more efficient than radiators (IE have a CoP > 1)

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Upgrade posted:

Their house has zero insulation

WTF how can you build or even live in a house like that when it can go to -17C. Just burning money for half the year.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Thwomp posted:

Is there any trick or strategy to getting new windows?

I’m not sure if we’re ready to take that plunge yet but it’s be nice to get some ballpark figures.

I’m pretty sure all our windows are original (~60 years) or just old as gently caress. We live in the Midwest so cold winters and hot summers.

Do you already have external shutters of some kind? If not consider getting electric roller ones installed at the same time. It'll be (a lot) more expensive but they provide great weather protection.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Idk if they count as "high quality" but modern black aluminium windows look great.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Cyrano4747 posted:

No loving way I’d sign variable rate on anything right now. There’s only one direction rates can go from where they are and I’d be afraid of getting into bad waters if rates get hiked.

I think it's OK as long as there's a cap on the variability. We got a variable rate one 6 months ago, it was 25 years 1.55 variable, capped at 2.05, vs 1.85 fixed. Only other difference was that the fixed had early repayment fees whereas the variable was free, and we'd quite like to refinance in the next year or so as we had to go to a rather expensive specialist lender since we didn't have an in country work history. We also thought that rates were only going up but if anything they're down a touch! But yeah without a low cap it could get dicey.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Quaint Quail Quilt posted:

.

Aluminum frame windows will conduct the current outside temperature directly into the house unless (as someone else said) they are thermally bridged, which I've never heard of or seen, but that's an idea.
Hence they are the worst, but they may keep a draft out.

Unless you are talking like my current windows that are aluminum clad outside and wood inside with hopefully insulation between.

If you are getting new windows remember you can tint them more or less depending on your house orientation and climate, hardly anyone did that.


I did some research and locally (France):
* All the aluminium windows I checked at the home depo equivalent claim thermal breaks of some sort
* The energy rating system gave E's to even some windows with thermal breaks
* Every window is meant to have a "Uw" coefficient of thermal conductivity. This seems to range from 0.9 on the good end to 2.2 for the cheapest windows, which is actually a pretty big range!


So I've learnt some stuff, thanks! Together it makes me think that non-thermallly broken windows might not be legal locally, or at least challenging to build and meet energy efficiency requirements.

e: Uw always includes the frames. In the US there is a "U value" which seems to sometimes include frames, sometimes be glass only:

quote:

For windows, skylights, and glass doors, a U-factor may refer to just the glass or glazing alone. NFRC U-factor ratings, however, represent the entire window performance, including frame and spacer material. 

distortion park fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Jan 12, 2022

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Went to see some ironmongery for cabinets, and sadly the ones we liked most (unlaquered brass) were insanely expensive everywhere. Like £100 for a kitchen cabinet pull handle. One helpful guy said that they used to be way cheaper but prices have been going up for ages, they've stopped selling some models because they were so much. The cast brass doesn't age the same way as the solid/forged stuff so you have to leave the protective layer on (idk if it's the allow used or the process)

We found a mid range cast and lacquered brass style that was ok and in budget eventually, but it's definitely something where you get what you pay for. If I had 5 times the money I'd totally get the nice ones.

distortion park fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jan 25, 2022

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


We've been having some renovations done and there is an incredible gulf between the good tradesmen and the bad ones. We didn't think we had the insight necessary to effectively coordinate all the work ourselves so had it done via a cooperative (I think the equivalent is a General Contractor in the USA?) and that was such a good decision.

The tiling guy in particular has been a problem, he hasn't left any holes for outlets etc in one room (or maybe wasn't told to do so?). He also damaged some of the brand new flooring - fortunately since it's all via the coop it's their problem and it is getting fixed. If we had been organising it and messed up instructions like that it would have been really pricey

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Maybe a long shot, since the parts are different, but I'm in Europe where we have these cylindrical back boxes for plugs. I've been replacing a bunch of plugs as they were old and yellowing, and it's mostly fine. However, some of them used to be hardwired radiators (IE no plugs, radiators wired directly to mains) and some of these have these over wires joined in the backbox, like in the photo. I can't fit the plug into the box easily in these cases, what are my options? I can see that you can get marginally bigger boxes (50mm instead of 40mm) but that seems like a pain and might not even work. Is it just a case of really carefully bending the wires so that they use the space efficiently?

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Thanks for the advice on the wiring boxes - I'll spend 30min with some tongs trying to bend the wires but otherwise looks like I'll order some larger boxes! I didn't see any that big in my local hardware store.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011




Took a bit of finesse but got there eventually

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


I'm joking, a combination of cutting the wires back and bending them very carefully with pliers worked.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Verman posted:

I'm so confused.

Tiny Timbs posted:

I use chopsticks taped to a staple puller

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


BigPaddy posted:

Mini splits are great for places that get hot and cold but not that cold in the winter.

This is the common take in this thread but Norway is one of the world leaders in heat pump installations. Do they mostly use central heat pumps instead of mini splits or something?

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Thought this thread might enjoy this video. I found it really interesting!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZGuSC7KNvM

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Can you just sell them that bit of your yard?

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Motronic posted:


That's not how this works at all. Not even mentioning the fact that it would be 5 figures of legal bills to change a lot line you may not even be able to do a zero lot line where they live. And that other little complication where your mortgage will immediately be called due if you somehow accomplish legally changing the property lines of the thing that is securing your loan.

Agree the fees might make it a non starter but it's totally something you can do in lots of places, mortgage or not, you just ask your lender for that bit.

distortion park fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jun 5, 2023

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


They make good mulch - you can buy bags of it even!

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Shifty Pony posted:

Getting some heat rejecting window film would make a huge huge difference as well. Every window is roughly equivalent to a 1kW space heater running full blast.

A restaurant I used to get lunch at had heat rejecting film in every floor to ceiling window except for one pane that I guess they had replaced at some point but didn't spring for the nice film. The difference between sitting behind that particular window and the other windows was frankly astounding; in the winter I would be shivering if I sat anywhere else but pleasantly toasty in that sunbeam.

Or external shutters!

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


The Slack Lagoon posted:

I want to replace my old 30" over-oven external vented microwave with one that has a convection oven feature. Are there any brands folks could recommend?

There are only two or so actual companies that make microwaves, the rest are rebadges. I can't remember the other name but Panasonic is one of them, make sure you get an Inverter one.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Jenkl posted:

Bought a new range hood. Instructions state to only use rigid metal wherever possible.

Includes flex plastic.

Sigh. Just include nothing, honestly, and knock a buck off the price. Win-win.

Edit: they include drywall anchors but tell you to ensure it's installed into wood.


distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


devicenull posted:

Isn't California having major issues with lack of water for farming and stuff? Just get one of those big water trucks for the discharge water, then you can drive around and sell it.

I think the lack of water is because they already give it all for free to the almond farmers or w/e, hard to compete with that.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Pretty certain the US of A could find a way of producing all those crops some other place with more available water.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Lawnie posted:

Your home inspector should have turned the A/C on full blast and measured the temp of the air coming out of your vents after a few minutes to check for efficacy. Not saying your inspector did a bad job, but if anything else comes up that seems like it could have been caught, it might be worth getting someone out for a second look.

Actually that’s a good idea for a smart person to draft and post: list of checks any decent home inspection should include.

I don't think there's any evidence that the inspector didn't check the A/C worked on full blast - the problem was it being turned off, not some fault somewhere

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distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


This seems like a dumb thing to continue to talk about but I feel like i'm going crazy - the switch being off at some point in the future doesn't mean that the inspector couldn't have had it on when they did their tests? Are they one use switches or something?

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