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Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Moving in to our new house next month. 1Gbit up/down for ~ 45 USD / mo. We could also go broadband, which is 35 / mo for 25 mbit up/down. Wasn't even a contest.

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Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Bought a brick house from 1954 this July 1st from my in laws. Ended up pulling out some old shelves from the living room (30 m^2) that have been in the house for 40+ years and some old wood paneling from the floor to about 70 cm in height) from the master bedroom (15 m^2) and spare bedroom (8 m^2).

The wallpaper in the master bedroom is impossible to pull off, so we're leaning towards just cleaning the walls and putting up glassfabric. There's virtually no unevenness. I had decent luck scraping off most of the wallpaper in the spare bedroom, but there's still some stubborn spots left. There was no wallpaper behind the shelving, so we'll (eventually) have to redo the living room too. There's plaster behind all of it.

I wonder whether the spots that are left in the spare bedroom are going to be susceptible to the steam wallpaper stripping machine we've borrowed.

Anyone have any input? It's my first time renovating a house.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Motronic posted:

My man.....we are talking the same language. My current house is below (undetectable) levels for radon, the new one a mile away needs and has an active mitigation system. Just depends where you are on the ridge line.........


What have you tried? Because the standard in the US seems to be some steam poo poo, but what I've found to be even better than that is super simple: hot water and some dish soap (maybe 5% dish soap....just squirt some in) sprayed on the paper. Spray that poo poo all over and have a beer (15 minutes or so). "All over" meaning manageable sections.....like 2 square freedom units (or meters) to start.....you'll figure it out if you can do more or less).

If it's water resistant only the seams come up. If it's not it all comes up. Start scraping and pulling from there. Keep doing that. Plastic scrapers are great for this. It comes off. Keep going on and repeat. If it's water resistant and you can only rip off (any part of) the top layer DO THAT. When you wet it the next time you are golden.

Then you need to wash and scrub the walls VERY well with TSP to get the rest of the glue and poo poo off.

If this doesn't work after 3-5 times get a hammer and a bin to rip out the sheetrock and/or find some super slim (1/4" ) drywall to top dress.

I tried some wallpaper removal solution which kinda works OK, but I'm much more fond of the steamer I borrowed.

This is a couple of hours of work with a steamer and a wallpaper stripper (basically a half metre stick with a boxcutter blade at the end).





I really don't know if this is decent progress or just a terrible waste of time.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
I'm glad I could provide the thread with a new title. This house is going to be my Vietnam.

This took all day. Someone glued their raw plugs in place, i even found wooden ones in the wall.


One spot had the wallpaper sticking better than the plaster

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Let me tell you about the mason bees slowly eating the mortar in my brick house.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Ashcans posted:

Our house had this really ugly still-life-fruit wallpaper border around the top of one room. My wife was just going to paint over it, but I said 'oh no we own this house, we should do things properly!' So I started removing the wallpaper and found out that the previous owners had no such views, they had just tacked it up over successive layers of wallpaper. Once I started I couldn't work out how to back down, so I ended up stripping off all the wallpaper. Under that was some sort of weird plaster and surfacing layer that is probably as old as the house and started to crumble from age once exposed. So now I am stuck having to remove those crumbling areas, replaster them, and probably apply some sort of skim coat before finally painting. I should have just painted over it all.

This was me this summer. You'll be happy when you finish because you'll finally be done.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Went up to clean out my gutters and found out that some of the plants growing up our walls have sent feelers up under the tile roof. Ugh.

We're talking about getting a deeper basement so there's room for heated floors, but this also necessitates putting in insulation on the outsides of the basement walls, which naturally clears the vines and roses we have growing along the walls.

Getting all this stuff done is going to cost a fortune.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
I bought a roll of cat6 cable and ran it through my brick house behind baseboards designed for cables behind them, it took maybe a couple of hours. YouTube videos are literally all you need for this. One for the punch tool, one for beginners mistakes for the modem and switch setup. One thing I'd recommend is to definitely get a switch with PoE. I'm looking at replacing my one year old switch because I didn't know any better when I bought mine.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Sepist posted:

That looks like what I would need but I've already committed to someone doing the dirty work.

And yes its heavy as hell, I had planned on dismantling it with a sledgehammer but the drain not coming out took all the wind out of my sails

I helped a member of my wife's extended family remove a cast iron tub like this - they had put it in wet concrete way back when they put it in, and his father in law was trying to get below it with a big old drill to pull it out in one piece. It was taking forever. We ended up smashing the tub with a sledge hammer in order to get at the drain. Took like 10 minutes.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Oh, the joys of homeownership. Just pulled this clog outta my drain. :barf:

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Anonymous Zebra posted:

California puts a limit on the duration of warranties

I googled this and got https://www.lhfconstructlaw.com/art...of-limitations/

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Ashcans posted:

Are there any restrictions on the location or symmetry of the windows? Maybe you could turn a loss into a win with some creative thinking.



This thread is getting out of hand

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Just came in here to complain. I had a guy come out to blow insulation into my hollow brick walls, and it looks like he realized half way through that he wasn't going to be done by quitting time, so he didn't insulate my gable at attic level, expressly against what I agreed on with the company owner. Problem is I can't see if they've filled up the rest of the wall from my external attic access.

One of his colleagues came out and helped with the East-facing wall, but now I don't know that I can trust that they've done a proper job there. It's also too drat dark to see anything by the time I get home, so I won't be able to assess before the weekend.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
So glad I complained in this thread. Wouldn't have thought of it myself.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Seven Hundred Bee posted:

Hi everyone! Hope this is the right thread to ask this/get some advice.

My wife and I recently had an offer accepted on a house. The house was listed at $395,000 (which was high) and we came in and held strong at $370,000, which was accepted. At that price we think it's a great investment in a very nice area. The house was built in the 1930s and is in excellent shape and well updated in many places. We had our inspection today and one big issue emerged -- many of the windows on the first and second floor (about 18 total throughout the house) do not open, are painted shut, and have broken counterweights. This was flagged as a material defect as a safety issue. When talking with the inspector, he commented he didn't know how much fixing this would cost -- and priced it at $1,000 or higher in the report. From talking with other people, the 'higher' is probably much higher - these are original windows from the 1930s (likely including lead paint and required abatement when repairing or replacing), and repair could be as much as $800 a window as each window needs to be individually removed, taken apart, and then any damage to the trim repaired. We are not handy people and don't want to do this ourselves. Replacing the windows would be a similar cost and would also mean losing 'historic house' status, which does help us down the line in resale.

Our big concern/frustration/plan is with this: at every point our agent has pushed back trying to convince us that this is simply what you get with a historic house. I'm very tired of smug assholes acting as if having windows that open is an unreasonable expectation when buying an older house. I don't feel ok "accepting" what could potentially be a $10,000 or higher expense which must be dealt with even if it doesn't matter to us right now -- we'd like to sell this house in around 5 years, and this of course will show up again at that point. I basically see this as adding $10,000 to the sales price, and I wouldn't buy this house at $380,000. We have entertained replacing the windows at some point, but I see that as just adding value and as an option, while this is something that must be done to even return to 'functional house status quo'. My plan is to ask if we can get a few estimates of what the cost would be to repair the windows (because nobody at this point can give us a firm number) that I would use ask for a credit. I feel like it's a big gamble to even settle on a number without that information because costs could spiral as high as $20,000 depending on the situation.

Does this make sense? Am I crazy?

I'd replace that poo poo in a heartbeat.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Good news on the insulation front. Bought a camera, took photos of my house and returned it (thank you, generous consumer protections). Insulation company is coming over friday to fix the problems I did discover. Also found out I really need to insulate the base of the house and probably the basement too.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

joepinetree posted:

The added complication is that the sears outlet near me now has the pair I want (GE) but they only have the ventless version. It's about a 600 dollar difference for the pair (also the sears are refurbished versions, but with full warranty). We could just buy the washer there and the dryer at full price somewhere else, but the added delivery fee would eat into the savings. If it's a "ventless with dry in 75 minutes what a vented dries in 60," then savings are worth it. If it's "2 hours later and things are still damp" it might not be. It's weird because for other appliances I seem to be able to find all sorts of testing but for dryers its much harder to find.

Our samsung condensation drier takes 3 hours and fifteen minutes to dry out a load. Maybe it's the a+++ energy efficiency.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
PREVIOUS OWNER!!! :arghfist:

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Why didn't you just take the branches off the tree, put a rope around the trunk and pull it out while chopping the biggest roots? Wouldn't have had to wait 3 years. Looks small enough to do it in my view.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Well you can't really undo what you've done. They say you should replant when the trees are dormant and trim branches when they're in full swing around august-september. Maybe it'll be fine.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
The diseases they carry are no joke.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
My buddy who's a carpenter advised me to think on what needs to be changed about the house over a few years. Nothing like shelling out a lot of money for one thing, and then having to redo it later. We've been slowly making changes that make sense - replacing windows, insulating, getting a new sliding door towards the yard installed.

Definitely paint the house, though. I spent my 3 weeks of summer vacation after we bought the house hanging glass tissue and painting while my wife was 8 months pregnant.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

LloydDobler posted:

Mine are the side sliding aluminum frame windows from the 80's. One of the rollers on the sliding part was crooked so it biased the window inward. There's a tiny overlapping lip of aluminum on the window with a mating one on the frame (on the vertical rail in the center). The lips were bumping each other instead of overlapping. I loosened the roller, tightened it while holding it straight, and bam, the window closes.

And yeah I thought I learned my lesson on my first house, before I moved in to this place I did a shitload of remodeling and painted everything. I figured I'd replace the windows someday so I never got around to doing any work on them at all. Plus I was burned out on work by the time I got moved in and did the bare minimum for the next 14 years.

I kinda feel bad for the next owner, the water heater, furnace, and windows are all past end of life. But they work so gently caress it.

It's YOU!

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Bioshuffle posted:

I completely forgot that I had termite inspection done. Ignorance, paranoia and fatigue do not play well together. I just have no idea why that part of the wall is torn up like that.

I need to recaulk the shower and bathtub. I also need to paint and prime the room. Which order do I need to do it in?

Have you considered that some kind of electrical fault might cause the house to burn down and that you'd be able to build an entirely new one? I know I have.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Bioshuffle posted:

I made the mistake of reading about fires due to dryer vent lint.

Kinda tempted to hire someone to come clean it out before the dryer install. But the vent looks pretty clean from the laundry room so.

Posting about it is a good way to establish plausible deniability imo

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
You probably want to either insulate the basement walls from the outside (hella expensive) or heat the cellar. The reason you're getting humidity is the warm summer air cooling down in the basement, which causes condensation.

We have the same problem, which requires us to run radiators in the cellar in the summer.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
You're looking for the house buying thread, friend.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

joepinetree posted:

So the question is: how much should I worry about temporary high humidity like this? I bought a cheapo small dehumidifier that is not handling the load, so next step is one of those $300-400 bigger units.

How much humidity is there in the air when you have that unit running?

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

TheWevel posted:

My basement fridge doesn't seem to be cooling anymore. It's from 1997 and it worked totally fine when we moved in 2 months ago. It seems like the freon evaporated...it was a steady decline in cooling over a few weeks. It sounds like the compressor is working since it's running all the time. Also, wasn't there a DIY forum?

Get a new fridge that's more energy efficient.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Recommendations for a shop vac? Getting real tired of my lovely old vacuum. I'm in Europe if it makes any difference.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
I pulled cat6 cables from my basement to my first floor pretty much without a hitch in a 50's european brick house. This includes a 40 cm bore hole at an angle through concrete where I used the Pythagorean theorem.

It's really not that hard.

Struensee fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Mar 14, 2021

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Highbrow Slick posted:

Looks like the 45 day timeline I was quoted on 1/29 was...not entirely accurate. Halfway through May and all I have to show for it is a missing bedroom door that the contractor took yesterday to match paint after arriving at my front door completely unannounced. Hooray

You must've misheard "a monday" as "this monday at the latest"

Lot of that going around lately.

BaseballPCHiker posted:

This is the reason for our basement remodel. We have 1 kid due in the next 3 months, and want to have one more in the next 2 years. We can make it work with babies but eventually will want the room for kids.

Our son whos turning 3 in 3 months only just got his own room, so you might be able to play for time.

Struensee fucked around with this message at 17:31 on May 11, 2021

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Are they the same as the series 8? I'm in Denmark and been thinking about getting a new dishwasher. Product code SMV8YCX01E

Struensee fucked around with this message at 11:06 on May 22, 2021

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Your neighbor fired their friend because they did a poor job and told you about it and you still want them to do the work?

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

CornHolio posted:

I paid them $5700 so far so yeah I want them to do something. Do I have any recourse to get my money back if they haven't done anything yet?

Everyone's trying to get you to realize that you need to cut your losses.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Had a carpenter out to take down an old wood stove and chimney. Ended up costing 1300 USD for an hour of work. I didn't realize I could've probably done it myself.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Hadlock posted:

I mean, it depends on whether or not it really ties the room together

Underappreciated post.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011

Hadlock posted:

smoke detectors within 8 feet of where you sleep

Rather this than burn to death imo

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
I fixed an error code on our old bosch by taking the front panel off, drying up the water under the styrofoam disc that's used to detect water leaks and putting it back together. Tightened the screws around the drain, fixed it for about a month before the print board gave out.

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Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Piper sealant tape? Take it off, wrap the thread in tape, screw back on

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