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SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

That's a very soothing arrangement of utility lines/poles

Edit: except for the left edge. Just noticed and now I'm mildly irritated.

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SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

INT: George and Jerry are in an art gallery. George is staring at a large photo of neon sign, seemingly transfixed.

George: there's something about the telephone pole in this photo.

Jerry: Oh yeah?

George: Yeah, it's very..

Jerry: What?

George: ..Soothing..

Jerry (incredulous): Soothing?

George (sheepish): Well.. yeah. In a way.

Jerry: Is that how you judge good art? By whether or not it soothes you?

George (defensive): No! But just look at the way the photographer has lined up all the power lines. It's so symmetrical. Look at that and tell me you don't find that soothing, Jerry, come on!

Jerry: You know, I think that's why they put up Guernica in the UN, to soothe the diplomats.

George: Aw, get out of here!

Jerry glances at he photo, and notices something.

Jerry: Hey, look here, it appears that there's another pole just outside of the frame.

George: Huh?

Jerry: Yeah, look. There's a little bit of another pole just floating here at the edge by itself. Kinda throws a wrench into your whole 'soothing symmetry' angle, eh?

George (agitated): Serenity Now!

Jerry (mockingly): Hey, what's the matter? I thought you liked this picture. You must've looked closely at it before you made your declaration. Oh, but I guess you didn't notice... that part right there?

Jerry points dramatically at the left edge of the photo frame.

George: George is getting upset!

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Is DMF really medium format? It's like APS-H to 645 film's FF. Besides that, you could save yourself the early adopter premium and just get a Pentax 645Z or whatever.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

That's cool.

k-zed posted:

case in point :razz:



This is cool, did you do it with LF movements (probably not, since you're referencing MF), or a shift lens? Or you were up in another building?

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005


Did you mean to scan this with the film upside down?

-

Got my Kiev-60 back from the shop! It still shutter caps, but in a different way than before. Interesting.

(Good enough frame. Darkening on right side isn't too obvious in this instance.)
img722 by S M, on Flickr

(Bad frame. Internal reflections, I think, and shutter capping)


I'm giving up on it. But what to do with this nice CZJ glass?

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Helen Highwater posted:

I might be in the market for some nice P6 glass.

I had my Kiev 60 overhauled by Arax (I bought it from a flea market) and it's now a perfect camera. Cost me about $100 including a CLA on a severely fungus infested lens and postage back to me (in Europe). Gevorg at Arax is the shitcam whisperer. Dunno if that's an option that interests you after you've already thrown some money at it.

CZJ 180 2.8. Wonderful. Used for taking some real nice pictures of my friend's wedding, and distant landscapes from the tops of buildings, etc. (But landscapes are where the uneven exposure kills it, especially with positive film.)

I'm still mulling over sending the camera to Arax for an overhaul.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

No clue about the P6 but I've ordered three Kiev 60s, one each from the two biggest refurbishers (Hartblei and Arax), and one from a random ebay seller. None of them were capable of producing an evenly-exposed frame across the shutter speed range. I sent back the Arax and they fixed it. It had no shutter problem after that. But it tumbled onto concrete and the lens mount was warped. I took the good shutter assembly out of the damaged camera and put it into the body from eBay. But unfortunately it then began to display unevenly exposed frames again.

If you want to get a Kiev 60, get one from Arax. Be ready to send it back though. I kind of have a hunch that their shutter repair service is just swapping in another shutter assembly and hoping it works better than the old one. I think they have a lot of new old stock from the arsenal factory so it makes sense.

The Kievs from Arax have optional MLU, which you should go for if you get one.

If you have some money and don't want to gently caress around, though, just order one of the 88's with metal shutter upgrade.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Best chair picture yet.

And I'm going to be just as goony as ever and say, I like the ice pic because it reminds me of a mode 7 SNES game :v:

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

If it's less $$, why not? It's a larger format. You're broadening your options.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

From what I've seen, I really like these look of astia, especially for landscapes. Shame it's discontinued.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

I had to work the poo poo out of this in PS just to get it looking halfway correct. The roll it came off of developed slightly pinkish umber instead of the normal healthy orange. No doubt my gently caress up somewhere. Seems like I can only ever get good results from a unicolor c41 kit on the first roll I process through :sigh:

IMG_9485-0 by S M, on Flickr

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

I figure it's that sometimes, but I wonder if maybe I'm also getting better results the first time because I'm mixing chems at 110° and letting them cool to 102° & immediately developing, rather than heating them just to that point and no farther as I do for every subsequent process. Maybe by 2 minutes in to the development, it's cooled too much..

But that would be a moot point if I had a more controlled process method. What kind of heater do you use? I've got some old aquarium heaters, but they don't go high enough.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

VelociBacon posted:

Liking ektar more than I thought I would.

Piss by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr

BEIJING by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr

I like the first one especially.

Ektar is good, imo. Good for for dim/diffusely lit interiors and natural environments. Portra 400 I like more for urban/street/architecture and interiors with strong natural light sources or flash illumination. Ektar is nice for shadowy urban scenes, though, too. Especially where lights have a green tinge. imo

I've never used portra 160, though.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

drat, I thought I had problems because my RB67 has a very faint light leak that shows up as a subtle color shift on 400iso+ film.

At least I can focus and take pictures.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

I'm in a constant state of psychological distress. I know what it's like. Definitely get outside. Force yourself.

MF is a pain. Maybe shoot 35mm? It's what I've been doing a lot more of and it's cheap and not as much of an investment - mentally, physically, or financially. For instance, I got out to the Wichita NWR this Black Friday. It was definitely better than spending it scoping Walmart doorbusters with the small town fam, but I drug along the RB67 and carried it up to a couple of peaks (my legs still hurt).

This was my first time shooting Provia, and I blew out the highlights on 8 out of 10 frames. If I hadn't been worried about underexposing the land and just gone with what my incident meter said it would have worked fine, but more to the point, it was a laborious and exacting process when what I was really looking for was a distraction from the stress of the holidays. And when the roll came back, it was pretty disappointing to see my fuckups in full color 6x7 frames.

This one turned out OK though.


I still have a 36exp roll or Portra 160 that I took with my FM. I had more fun with it and I bet there are some better pictures on there, too.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Delzuma posted:

I'm thinking about pulling the pin on a Fuji Ga645zi. Anyone have any thoughts on it? I'm looking for a traveling camera with some level of exposure help and I won't sneeze at autofocus either. Looks like this is the (affordable) way to go. I'd prefer something in the 6x6 area but this seems like a good way to go.

I couldn't tell you. The one ('Like New' condition) that I just received from Japan has a hosed up viewfinder that turns to mush at every zoom level except for the widest. (And yes, the diopter works perfectly. It can make the frame lines perfectly sharp, just not the scene in the VF.)

So I'm sending it back tomorrow. One day after getting it. Amazingly, it arrived just three days after ordering from Japan. I'd imagine that it's going to take a lot longer to get back when I'm footing the shipping, and even longer to get my refund.

(If I stood a reasonable chance of being able to fix the VF, I would seriously consider taking a go at it. But I can find neither a service manual PDF or even anyone else on the English-speaking internet who has ever said anything about dealing with such an issue. It seems like there's something moving inside the VF, but something else is supposed to move, too, and it isn't.)

So watch out for that if you get one! Or don't. Because apparently it doesn't ever happen.

I swear to god I've had the worst loving luck with buying used film camera equipment. Let me recount my recent "investments":

Nikon 24/2.8 Ai: apparently 'repaired' - I was told later by a tech that some element was probably reinstalled backwards because the edges were so heavily distorted
Nikon 24/2.8 #2: decentered
Nikon 28/3.5 non-ai: even more decentered (50% of frame soft)
Kiev 60 local repair: "a good CLA should get the shutter exposure evened out" - cleaner, but no improvement in issue
Nikon FE2 local repair: fixed issue but now mirror/prism misalignment causing front-focus
Minolta 24/2.8 MD: decentered
Minolta 24/2.8 MD #2: even more decentered (50% of frame soft)
Minolta 24/2.8 #3: great, except for no infinity focus! Sent back to seller and they are fixing for free. Will probably come back decentered
Nikon F3P: bad shutter timings - uneven exposure. Out for repair
Mamiya 50/4.5 Sekor-C (KEH EX): banged to hell and floating element malfunctioning
Olympus Stylus Infinity: Stopped focusing (focus now locks at one distance) halfway through first roll.
Nikon 300/4 AF: Works great but started making a grinding noise when focusing sometimes. I pray it's just some dry bearings in the helicoid and not loose/scraping glass.
Nikon 24/2.8 #3: decentered
GA645Zi: see above

By 'decentered' I mean that there is a big mushy blob in one of the corners that doesn't go away when stopping down, or that the left or right half of a projected image is noticeably softer than the other. And I know what a non-decentered wide angle lens looks like; I have a Minolta 28/2.8MD that does just fine, and it's the bargain-basement version (the later plastic one with a simplified optical formula) with a lot of haze. The corners are balanced though.

I guess people just beat the hell out of their lenses. If they were good performers, why would they sell them? Counting the one I sent back for repair as 'returned', I'm pretty sure that I've returned 100% of the manual focus lenses that I've bought on eBay in the last 9 months. Everything else was a CL or local store purchase, and generally I've just had to eat the cost on those.

Sorry, I know this isn't the right thread, but asking about the GA645 triggered me. All I want is one gosh-dang wide angle film camera lens that works right. (The 28/2.8MD is a low-contrast ghost hunter due to internal haze, it just happens to have decent centering.)

SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Dec 10, 2016

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

aricoarena posted:

Every time someone posts something from a Pentax 6x7 I really want one. I got the chance to hold one today and wow it's big, I knew it was big but gently caress is it hella big. Kind of tempered that want a little bit.

Consider the Kiev 60. It's a lighter, cheaper medium format SLR. It's no p67, but its pretty rugged. I wouldn't be worried about taking it out in the rain. Only 6x6, but there is a very nice 180mm 2.8 East German Carl Zeiss lens for the mount, that's great for portraits and general use as a short telephoto. Buy one with MLU from Arax Photo in Ukraine (or from a reputable dealer who can provide proof of servicing and a good return policy) and most of the shutter speeds might even work and make even exposures! No guarantees, though.

While we're talking about gear and not posting pictures, I'll tell everyone my boring story: I returned two separate Fuji GA645Zi cameras that I ordered from the same store on eBay, because of various defects or issues they had. The first was unworkable because of a misaligned viewfinder. The second, despite looking perfect, had a badly misaligned front focusing group that tilted upwards when the AF engaged. I'm bringing this up because it reinforces something that I've had to learn the hard way: only buy from eBay sellers who offer no-hassle returns, and make liberal use of return privileges if necessary. Now I've got my whole camera budget of about $1000 to spend again. I don't think I'll roll the dice on another 645Zi, but it's hard not too, because it was the perfect walk-around camera for me. Barely anything more to it than a 35mm camera, in terms of bulk. Probably lighter and slimmer than any of my Nikon F camera setups. I think I'll look for something larger-format now, but I've been spoiled by AF, AE, and auto winding, so I'm kind of SOL since I'm not looking for another 6x7 camera (an RZ67 or P67 both afford a bit of automation). Just 6x9 or 6x8. Which basically leaves me with the Fuji G(SW)690(BL) and the fixed (or interchangeable) 65mm. I've also considered a bronica SQ, just because it does have auto exposure and isn't huge. It also has interchangeable lenses and has wider options than the 28mm equivalent of the Fuji.

But the glass film holders I bought for my Epson V550, combined with the realization that I need to be scaling down my scans more anyway, have made it possible for me to be happy with the quality of flatbed scans of 120 film again, and I think 6x9 format would make the most of that method.

SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Dec 31, 2016

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

I would have pulled the trigger on GSW690 by now, but the lovely 'T' mode. Some of the RB67 lenses work the same way, and it sucks.

I think if there was any other 6x7 camera I would buy, it would be the Pentax. Far from stripping down, though, it would be for the relatively huge lens selection. Especially the telephotos.

But yeah, I need something simple to grab & go, and wide, to use more generally. I've heard that the Makina is fragile, but the GF670W would be ideal if it wasn't going for about 30% more than I'm willing to pay. So I guess my self being a cheap rear end in a top hat is just as much of a problem for me as the camera market.

Edit: I guess there're also 2x3 cameras with roll film backs. I'm not up on principles of use or how lens compatibility works for those cameras, though. Or even which ones are good.

SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Dec 31, 2016

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

For some reason, I just bought a gl690, plus 100mm & 65mm lenses. Price was right, and the shutters have true bulb mode. It's probably going to break as soon as the return window expires, but I'll use the poo poo out of it and then get it fixed if needed. As long as the 65mm holds up...

The whole kit was supposedly serviced not too long ago.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

I was out and about with an RB67 today. Definitely shot a lot at 1/60, and wasn't carrying a tripod. The mirror feels very well-dampened, but I was using MLU and a cable release threaded around the left-hand grip anyway because it's easy enough. Even though the RB is an unwieldy brick (although less so with the older 90/3.8), it feels like steady hands could probably take the shutter speed down to 1/30 handheld and not induce too much vibration. The leaf shutter is like a whisper.

I've wondered how much more ergonomic the P67 is in the field. I can't imagine that the RB with the 90mm lens and a WLF is any heavier than a P67 with normal lens and eye-level prism. But throw the 65mm K/L and metered prism onto the RB and it's a goddamn hog.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

The RB67 sits in the shade. It's so angular! And completely inoperable. Hands fumble for any sort of interface with the controls, but the toggles and cranks are impossible to find beneath the grip. All it can do is sit there, on the ground. No goon dares to lift its crushing weight.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005



SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Architecture - tough without a TTL viewfinder



SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Traditional values - such as wrapping up your outdoor tropical plants so they don't freeze -are being discarded in the era of increasing post-industrial malaise.

Front yards in the south will often feature outdoor plants wrapped in blankets when a freeze is expected. Those wrapped plants were the subject of a student's photography exhibit I saw in college. I consider this photo my response.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Thank you.

Joking aside, something else I'll always remember about that exhibit (it was an alumna from some years prior who had been invited back to display their work for current students) : when one of my fellow undergrads made a comment during the Q&A that they were impressed by the photographer's dedication to Plant Blanket Photography (she had a portfolio containing hundreds of individual blanket-wrapped plants), the artist offered -otherwise unsolicited- that she was fortunate to have a husband and parents who all pitched into the pay for her to do nothing except work on the project, which took over a year. She also said that she had no job prospects and no intention of ever seeking employment, and strongly intimated that it was basically impossible to pursue art seriously and also hold down a job.

It was probably a good object lesson for the art majors in attendance, but it also turned me off of photography for a long time.

SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Jan 5, 2017

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Terrible trigger discipline.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

change my name posted:

I forgot all about the Pentacon Six, that's probably where I'll go from here (and I'm guessing the Mamiya Six is the older model, because the newer one is >$1,000).

If you can find a Pentacon Six with the modification for mirror lock up (often just called MLU in listings online), go for it. And don't be afraid of buying some of the cheaper Ukrainian lenses. I've always had good results with the Arsat/Arax-C 80mm 2.8. The 50 and 180 Carl Zeiss Jena lenses are the main German lenses you'd want to buy.

My local store ran out of Porta 400, and the stuff I ordered online hasn't arrived yet, so I bought a pro pack of 400H. It's even less like Portra than I remember.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

To me, 400H feels like looking at the world through a very thin layer of translucent caucasian skin.

Edit: What am I going to do with the other 4 rolls.

SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Feb 9, 2017

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005



SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Those are cool. I want to do a typology series soon.

Did you talk to any of the ice fishermen who used/owned those shacks?

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005



SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

My stupid secret is that I use a light meter app even though I could buy a real light meter or get a metered prism. The phone is just always there anyway.

It figures the reading differently for the front and rear cameras. Between those two, I can generally get a good exposure - in daytime or indoor light, at least.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Would the experienced and discerning 4x5 shooter prefer a linhof master technika, or a chamonix? Or is there much of a difference?

Also, has anyone here ever hosed with any kind of Mamiya Press?

And, how about the handling differences between an RB67 and an RZ? Are the RZ bodies appreciably lighter or easier to handle?

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

ansel autisms posted:

what makes you want to go to 4x5?

Oh, I'm not even close to actually going 4x5. I barely compose anything worth keeping on 20-25% of the roll film I shoot. Just curious.

*The rest of this post is an unfocused digression*

But, I've thought about 6x9 roll film on field cameras. Like everyone says, they can be lighter than SLRs like the RB/Z.

Also just still weighing all of the options for wide angles (horizontal angle of view greater than 65 degrees). I think a rangefinder or view camera of some sort is going to be where I end up with that. Not an SLR.

I really like the sharpness of my current RB lenses, but the options aren't great for FL's shorter than the 65.

Weight doesn't bother me, but it's conspicuous, and maybe not as benign-looking as a field camera. (Got hassled by security guards just for being SXSW-adjacent with the RB today). So even though I could migrate to RZ and pick up the good RZ 50, it would still be a pain on the street.

So why haven't I just gotten an SWC? I swear that the lenses just render with too much contrast for my taste. Older single-coated Fujinons, older Mamiya TLR and newer Mamiya RF lenses appeal more to my tastes. I think. It's weird that Mamiya RF lenses seem to have a kind of glow to them, where the colors and contrast are subdued, but their microcontrast and sharpness is very high.

I would be on a C330 Pro S right now, but 55 isn't wide enough on 6x6.

I would have a Mamiya 7, but I'm not sure I want to blow $2500 on gear sight-unseen from Japan.

Mamiya Press might be old and weird enough. I would hope that the 50 is superior to later SLR 50s.

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SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

I like the RZ.



Edit: Wide is more important to me than format right now; I'm thinking I'll either buy a GS645W (for portability and quick, easy use), OM-2n with 24mm (same), RZ + 50mm (possible intergoon purchase here), or cap off all future photography gear purchases this year and buy a Mamiya 7 + 50mm and hope it really is the absolute loving poo poo.

SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Mar 16, 2017

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