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kid sinister posted:Prove it. Post a picture of the plug for that thing. I'll post it if you tell me it will change any part of your opinion about me for the better.
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Apr 6, 2017 00:43
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Baronjutter posted:No one's being mean because of what you did, most goons, specially in DIY, are pretty cool nice people who want to help. Some people will have a laugh but then move on. It's your constant defensiveness and some how turning this massive fuckup into more bragging about your skills and finances. People are very concerned that you didn't seem to be acting like you "got" how much of a fuckup this was, and it was your ego and lack of DIY skills that caused it. It's true, I didn't understand the seriousness of it originally. But now I do, and I have you guys to thank for that. And i'm taking steps to remedy the situation, but it seems like I'm still getting bashed for not knowing something.
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Apr 6, 2017 00:46
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I'm going to attempt to derail this thread with some actual project questions. Anybody have any ideas how to mount this valve? Most Kohler valves come with mount points that can be screwed to a backer 2x4, but this one seems to be absent of those. My thoughts are that it is held in place with rigid copper pipe that is strapped in place, but I'm using PEX so that's not going to help much. Any ideas oh how to mount this beast? (Notes: Yes, I'll be using teflon tape, i'm just testing the fittings. I'll probably get a longer pipe between the valve and the spout based on clearance between the valve cover and tub spout.)  
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Apr 6, 2017 01:02
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JB50 posted:Did you get ANY permits to do this work? It's my goal to do everything up to code, and once I get a contractor involved, it's likely there will be permits needed, possibly for other things, which i'll take care of if needed. That being said, my last home had an extensive bathroom remodel without any permits and there were no issues when it was sold.
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Apr 6, 2017 01:22
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kid sinister posted:You're right about it being a long time. Knob and tube allowed for in wall splices, but that's about it. I told you exactly what it would take for me to deliver, but since it wouldn't change your mind there was no point in delivering just to make you happy. But if you'd open your eyes a bit you can see quite clearly in the very pic you quoted that there is an appliance cord connected to the junction box right there just waiting to be plugged in. The plug and outlet are just as accessible as a refrigerator. But this still won't change your opinion.
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Apr 6, 2017 06:42
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kid sinister posted:Nice try. There's no outlet in the picture. Why the gently caress would I put an appliance cord in a junction box if I didn't have anything to plug it into? Seriously, you're just trolling for the sake of trolling. No amount of proof would sway your opinion. You probably think the Earth is flat too.
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Apr 6, 2017 07:12
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Well with KS gone (hopefully longer than a day) I can tell you that I don't miss him. I'm going to take the advice of some and not post for a while until I have something meaningful to post. I have contacted over 10 different contractors and as of yet not a single one has come over. And to that note, not a single one has called me an idiot or said it couldn't be fixed when I told them I cut my beams. So between my job and finding a contractor, things are going to be slow for a while. On a side topic, I'm really not a private person. I'm fully aware of what can be found out about me on the google. So if you need to know details of my private life, like the concern for the safety of my non-existent wife and kids or the number of bedrooms in my house (5) just ask. Don't be creepy. Also, i'm enjoying the speculation about what my bathtub pit is for so I'm not going to ruin it. Continue talking amongst yourselves.
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Apr 6, 2017 22:34
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So my theory that Craiglist people are notoriously flaky and don't want to be bothered is true. Even licensed contractors who just don't want any new work. Why post ads if you're not going to take any work? Anyway, I changed up my approach and did some contractor digging elsewhere and now have six appointments lined up in the next two weeks.
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Apr 7, 2017 00:20
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JoshGuitar posted:Whatever contractor you go with, if you're satisfied with their work/price/timeliness, remember their name. I've been trying to get a fuckoff huge (2400 square foot) garage built for a project house I plan to move into once I finish it, and it's been nothing but a giant pain in the rear end. I talked to the first contractor last July. He was a friend of a friend, nearing retirement, and all I got was months of "I'm waiting to hear back from my concrete guy". The garage would have been built 6 months ago if he actually felt like doing the job. A friend of mine tried to get an estimate from the same guy for an addition on his house, and got the same treatment. Next I talked to a friend of mine who's worked construction forever. I asked what GCs he'd recommend for a good bang for the buck. His recommended guy came in at $130k for the first version of the garage, and $90k for the second. Even if I had the money, I wouldn't spend either of those numbers on a garage. Then I found a third guy. Also a friend of a friend, and he ended up building the previously mentioned friend's addition in a timely manner, and everything came out nicely. His estimate came in at $40k, plus "I'm guessing $10-15k for grading and fill, I have to talk to the guy". "The guy" came and looked at the site, and said it'll be about $2500. That just bought me a project car to put in the garage Having done work with friends and friends of friends, I'm hypersensitive to asking anyone for recommendations, or if they "know a guy". I still do it, but I don't want any of my friends personally doing any work for me. It's just asking for poo poo to go wrong and relationships to be ruined, so I avoid it at all costs. But the only thing my hatred towards trying to hire contractors does is make me want to start a contracting business with some professional follow-through. It doesn't seem like too much to ask, yet I'm in a service business, so It's in my best interest to cater to people when they have problems. It seems like it would be the same if I were a contractor. I want people to talk about how great I was, and how I called back, and checked if I was satisfied. It just seems like a good business practice. Burt Sexual posted:Interesting, how did you change your approach? I used Yelp and some ads from some local magazines I get instead (which I expect to cost more than your average licensed craigslist flake). I told them all I would need a structural engineer as part of the services. bEatmstrJ fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Apr 7, 2017 |
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Apr 7, 2017 01:08
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. Between his reasonable pricing, the results I saw on my friend's addition, and the (hopeful) results I'll see on my garage, I'm hanging on to this guy's number for any future work I might need.
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Burt Sexual posted:That's actually not a bad idea, but they'll say tear our the floor. 😟 Almost without question they would say, "get new beams". They have no interest in being responsible for the advice they give me to fix this. It would open them up to too many opportunities for problems. Or they would tell me to talk to an engineer.
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Apr 7, 2017 01:47
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Effective-Disorder posted:Even if you wedge those things in really snug between the flanges, is screwing them through the flakeboard going to transfer loads properly? You're trying to replace the capacity for compressive strength from the top flange onto something that naturally wants to give in to vertical forces, held together on a different plane with plywood and some screws. It's adding weight and (more importantly) new loading factors in. All the compressive loads are now shearing loads on the interface of the screws, flakeboard, and 2x8. Not to mention the tensile loading on/around that scarf joint possibly leading to torque that can't be accounted for without some math. If you drew a static diagram of that arrangement, it would be a mess. This is an interesting thought. If I could "header-off" the joists on both sides of my tub, and then install new shorter joists between them, that would solve my problem. The only thing is, the PDF doesn't specify if you can have more than one "damaged" joist, so that's still up in the air. Otherwise this seems like a reasonable solution that wouldn't be very invasive.
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Apr 7, 2017 02:00
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Ferremit posted:Hell im not even sure you can JOIN those engineered joists- Every new double story house they've put up around here (im in AU for reference) has had them come from factory manufactured to dimension to span the entire width in one segment. The only time ive seen them in two pieces across a house was on a double framed internal wall with the joists offset to get a full 180mm of support and then the entire thing is clad in 18mm yellowtongue flooring. My joists are 14' in length and span most of the width of my bathroom, minus about 2 feet which goes into my closet. Since I have to remove the left side subfloor to redo the new shower drain I will have easy access to most of the joist length.
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Apr 7, 2017 02:02
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glynnenstein posted:
Well, if the tub came crashing down, it would take out a few kitchen cabinets and then hit a small kitchen counter and possibly the corner of my kitchen island before landing safely on the post-tension concrete slab of a floor below, somewhere in the intersection of tile-meets-carpet.
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Apr 7, 2017 02:30
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HycoCam posted:To fix your floor you are going to need stamped plans. i.e. An engineer is going to have to create a plan to fix the floor. And that is why you may want to initially involve a few engineers. Explain to each 1) you don't have a lot of money at the start of the project. 2) Need to repair the safest and most economical method. 3) And need stamped plans for your permit. Not sure of your market. In our market getting the engineer on site for a project estimate ranges from free to $200. The site visit and stamped plans would work out $400-$500 for your repair. Anyhow, listen to what each engineer proposes. Figure out which solution you like the best and have them draw up and stamp the plans. With those plans in hand you can head to the Inspections Department and pull your own permit. Don't worry, I'm definitely getting an engineer. At this point my speculation into how it could be fixed is only for my own amusement and trying to guess at what will really be recommended based on my limited understanding of structural engineering. I talked to one local engineer who basically said, without looking at it, that new shorter joists would be needed to be run the full length. He wants $500 to come over and do plans, but since he already told me what he's going to do I want to talk to some other people who might have different approaches. I suspect there is more than one way to engineer out of this. I talked to another engineer in Florida for a while and sent him many pictures and he was pretty certain he could engineer a solution that wouldn't require replacement, but once he found out I was in CA he said it wouldn't matter cause his plans wouldn't be accepted in my state, which I personally think is silly since engineering doesn't change from state to state (even though code does). I figure my worst case scenario is new beams get installed and I'm back with no sunken tub. My 2nd worst case scenario is shorter beams get installed and I get my sunken tub but its a very invasive process. The best possibility is someone retrofits my existing beams to work in place. I'm going to try to pick the brains of the project managers that come over and see what I can learn from them and hopefully get some additional leads on engineers, cause they aren't terribly easy to find, or at least I don't know how to find them around here.
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Apr 7, 2017 05:31
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Thats just straight dedication right there.
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Apr 7, 2017 08:52
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Kommando posted:bEatmstrJ It would basically be blasphemy to have a bathroom that large without a tub. I would shoot my resale in the foot. Also, I like bathtubs, even though I never use them.
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Apr 7, 2017 20:39
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Also this engineer-chat is surprisingly interesting. If you can wade through all the poo poo-posts, it's amazing what you can learn on this forum. So it seems like this was answered before sort of, but hypothetically, if those joists were solid 4x10's or similar, first, are they not as strong as the I-Beams? Second, if I had notched those out instead, how would that have affected it?
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Apr 7, 2017 21:38
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Hubis posted:That reminds me of one of my favorite engineering factoids: There's no denying that this thread has made me quite a bit smarter already. In relevant news, my first contractor just left. I pointed out every flaw I've made since I started and gave him a list of them so he can laugh about it later. He said he's definitely seen worse problems and said he's seen engineers recommend sistering 2x4's the whole length of the joist to fix them. I'm not taking his word as gold or anything but we talked about a lot of things and he had a pretty positive attitude. Definitely got a good vibe from him. Some notes from our discussion: - Engineer definitely needed - Inspectors will be involved - The studs I notched out are probably inconsequential (the rafters in newer houses typically run from exterior wall to wall and don't rely on interior walls in between. He was almost certain it wasn't a load bearing wall and thus the notches aren't really an issue. He was more concerned that I covered the pipe with stud plates, which I did. - The medicine cabinet cutout was a non-issue for the same reason - The wall I built for the shower might need to be flipped (double plate goes on top, not bottom), but nailing through the drywall was not an issue. Though some bracing will need to be added at the top for earthquake safety. And the weight of the tile on the new wall will need to be factored into the joists, which I didn't really consider. - The venting of the double vanities were discussed and we didn't really come to a resolution, but thats on the table - Bathtub plumbing and venting seemed fine even though it will likely have to be redone for the joists - Most of the subfloor will need to come up, pretty obvious - He took several pictures and measurements and I gave him my cheat sheet of what I would like done All in all i'm pretty happy with the guy so far. Several more appointments upcoming, but we'll see what happens as things progress. bEatmstrJ fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Apr 7, 2017 |
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Apr 7, 2017 23:25
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Antifreeze Head posted:For as terrible as an idea as this was, I do want to congratulate you on some very clean and straight cuts there. What kind of saw did you use? I tacked a guide board to the side of the beam then just ran my skill saw on the guide. For the edges I touched them up with an oscillating tool. It worked out pretty well. In other news, just had another contractor come by. He seemed a little bit unsure about the joists, but it didn't really stop him (He just called back and thinks it would be best to go back to stock). I think he was more concerned with the amount of tile work I wanted him to do and how much that's going to cost. I learned some new things though: - Bathroom vents with humidity sensors are now required even if you have a window. - Any light receptacles with screw in fixtures must be connected to motion sensors (even if they are LED) (fortunately I won't have any) - I probably can't have my shower glass go all the way to the ceiling like I wanted due to humidity reasons. He also made a few design recommendations that I may consider as revisions to my project. All in all, another good meeting. Looking forward to some exciting quotes.
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Apr 10, 2017 22:13
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H110Hawk posted:Those first two points sound like commercial rather than residential requirements. You might want to call your city and ask them. I know in California you can't sell a light without an LED bulb in it (this is why you can't order lamps off target.com for example.) You said you're in LA, do mean city proper or county? Also will you sell tickets to go lay in repose precariously across the cut beams? Apparently the humidity fan thing is a new requirement. But the LED bulb thing I can see being very California. We're all energy anal around here. I'm not in LA proper, about an hour away in Riverside County. You can buy tickets to the beams if you want. I've already stood and sat on them numerous times to do various tasks. They aren't going anywhere for now.
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Apr 11, 2017 19:55
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I met with another contractor today. He did a very thorough inspection and said everything looks good as is. He recommended leaving the subfloor off. He appears to be licensed judging by those credentials around his neck and he had very reasonable rates.
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Apr 11, 2017 21:40
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H110Hawk posted:Interesting. Thanks! Does this just control the light going off or must it also switch it on as well? Because if it must switch the light on a 1w LED is going in my bathroom with a vacancy sensor. I believe most of them automatically turn on when you enter, then turn off after a few minutes of inactivity. Usually right when you're in the middle of taking a poo poo and you haven't moved for 5 minutes, but you're too far away to trigger the sensor again.
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Apr 12, 2017 04:32
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Snak posted:Doesn't that make the requirement even dumber then? What's the point of mandating that one light gets turned off with a vacancy sensor if the end result is that people who want to work around it will just install more lights? I suppose the majority of bathrooms seldom have more than one light maybe?
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Apr 12, 2017 20:49
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JB50 posted:OP has a never ending trail of great decision making. Lesson learned. I like to give people the benefit of the doubt though. I'm definitely more trusting than not because I believe people will generally do the right thing, especially when they have a history of sales to back them up. In other news, today I learned another fun California code law that doesn't allow you to have showers that have more than one feature that can be used at the same time. IE, I intend to have 2 separate shower sides, and each side will have a regular head and a rain head. One of the sides will also have a hand wash head. So according to code, no side can have flow coming out of two heads at the same time. You can switch between them but can't have them mix and pass inspection. Apparently this is something that some inspectors get lax on, but it's another thing to worry about.
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Apr 13, 2017 23:21
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TTerrible posted:That seems weird and arbitrary. What saving measure? According to CALGreen compliance as of Jan 1, 2017 the following restrictions have been put into place: 4.303.1.3.1 Single Showerheads: ≤ 2.0 gpm @ 80 psi 4.303.1.3.2 Multiple Showerheads: combined flow rate of all showerheads controlled by a single valve shall not exceed 2.0 gpm @ 80 psi, or only one shower outlet is to be in operation at a time Also showers can only have more than one shower head if they can be at least 4' apart.
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Apr 14, 2017 00:37
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Snak posted:Gotta make that almond milk... Freshly squeezed from almond tits.
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Apr 14, 2017 04:22
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The fun part is they make a big deal about taking shorter showers and letting your lawn die to save water and stuff like that when households use somewhere around 10-15% of the total water consumption in CA. Agriculture is like 80%
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Apr 14, 2017 19:50
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Ceciltron posted:Seems clean, Looks clean, but all those pipes and pumps can be home to some unfriendly things. You're really killing my buzz.
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Apr 16, 2017 20:05
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In reasonably boring news, I took down my vanities and removed the hardibacker from the wall today in prep for the contractors to do the minor plumbing fixes needed and so it can be inspected later. Since the wall is off, i'm probably going to replace the mirror electrical boxes with adjustable boxes and I might swap out the brass pipes with some copper stubouts. That one is up in the air though since the brass ones are working and i'm not sure I have enough slack in the blue PEX on the right to make the switch without adding a coupler. So far I've had 3 contractors come over and I've received one quote. I have another 3-4 contractors coming this week. 
bEatmstrJ fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Apr 17, 2017 |
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Apr 17, 2017 08:47
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Burt Sexual posted:How much was the quote? There were a lot of unrelated items on the quote, but the joist repair line item read as follows: Repair floor joist (ball park number may need to revise after architect and inspector give recommendations) - $5500 Slugworth posted:Looks like it slopes down to the left to me. Water only needs a couple degrees of slope to run. Drain pipes only need 1/4" slope per foot. That pipe slopes 1/4" per foot. OSI bean dip posted:Did you seriously cut out your studs to put in that pipe like that? It was the only way to get a 7 foot section of pipe into the studs that I was aware of. None of 3 contractors thought this was an issue, although I still plan on sistering the studs for sanity and goon satisfaction.
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Apr 17, 2017 18:40
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Bad Munki posted:Ironically, one of those hammock tubs would have neatly alleviated the need for any floor there at all, much less floor joists, I say just remove the floor there altogether and go hog wild! How about a glass bottom tub you can see from the kitchen below? That could be fun.
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Apr 17, 2017 19:23
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SoundMonkey posted:i mean i hope nobody at all takes the inane poo poo i spew as actual advice but i do see your point yes I'll see what I can do. I don't think there is enough slack but we'll see. I can probably drill a new hole but If I have to go into the attic to fish it I'm gonna be upset. That's a bitch of a spot to get to in the attic. Also, no inaccessible junction boxes have been buried.
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Apr 18, 2017 03:55
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SoundMonkey posted:i see your fancy language there city boy This is not within the scope of this thread.
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Apr 18, 2017 04:04
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SoundMonkey posted:oh, right you are. get those pigtails outside the junction box, no room for wasted space in a proper DIY job. I have a couple of AFCI breakers in my house, then there is one GFCI outlet downstream of a bunch of normal ones. Not sure if the AFCI breakers are also hooked to the GFCI circuits (never bothered to check), but almost all of my bathroom outlets are normal outlets with stickers on them with a feed from a single GFCI outlet.
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Apr 18, 2017 09:03
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SoundMonkey posted:OP I'm glad you're getting actual engineers and people who don't want to crush their kitchen island with their taint when they fall through their floor, but I gotta admit a tiny part of me was hoping for a basement-pool-next-to-electrical-panel horror show. Well if you think about it, it's really the fault of this forum for not letting this happen. You guys should have colluded before distracting me from my grand design.
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Apr 20, 2017 02:39
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brugroffil posted:at 23:45....what are those outlets doing behind the tub where they'll be buried once the tile is replace? Typically there would be an access panel installed on the other side of the wall. Look at some of my before pictures and you'll see a couple of outlet boxes that were in place under the old tub frame for the jacuzzi plugs. But there's also an access panel right under the window. Hopefully they installed, or were planning on installing an access panel.
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Apr 20, 2017 20:51
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 A contractor has been selected! Engineering begins Monday
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Apr 21, 2017 03:38
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SoundMonkey posted:is there any way you or another household member can record the look on their face when they first walk in I'll see what I can do. No guarantees though.
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Apr 21, 2017 03:43
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Snak posted:He walks in and, right as he's about to say something, the floor collapses under him. Don't worry, the contractor is bonded and insured. The engineer works for the contractor. He could only hope for such an incident, and the resulting payout.
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Apr 21, 2017 04:55
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Lladre posted:I'm glad you are getting your floor fixed. How is the wall with the vanities doing? Are you contracting that out as well or going to redo it yourself? The vast majority of the remaining work has been contracted out, including the vanity wall plumbing and repair. Only a few minor things will remain once they are done. I even talked myself into adding a steam shower which wasn't on the final plans (was up in the air about it).
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Apr 21, 2017 05:47
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