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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

I didn't show off my swap meet finds from a couple weeks ago.
Didn't have much money, so I mostly bought tools - a set of hole punches, prybars, and a full set of chisels and punches, since all I had were a few random punches.

The good deal was this:


Hell yeah, vette brakes.


Darchangel posted:

I already have a Ford 460 (7.5L) throttle body to use on my Cutlass. Similar throttle body used on the original '90s Mustang Cobra (a bit larger, I think).

They look like this:


What will you do for an intake manifold? Obviously you can make an adapter for the throttle body, but you need something that drops onto a SBC (BPO?) and has fuel injector bungs. Is there an affordable option?

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

I know the fronts are essentially identical between C5/C6 and LSx F-bodies. Apparently the Vette calipers are a bit stiffer with beefier ribs or something. I believe the rears are drat similar, too.

I know those brakes will bolt right up to a Chevy 10 bolt, but I don't really know the differences with the BOP stuff. $20 for all that poo poo is a loving bargain and a half. The only thing I had to do on mine was hog out the center bore in the rotor just a bit to clear the axle. I had to make some brackets for the parking brake cables, too.



This is what I was getting at.

Although I didn't know the fronts were the same, but I thought the rears were. Aren't at least the C6 fronts bigger than the C5 and late 4th gen?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:


That's the secondary close stop there to the right of the mounting bolt
and now that I think of it, I might could have gotten my right-angle ratcheting screwdriver bit handle in there. Nuts.

If your ratchet head won't fit, it looks like there might be clearance for an offset screwdriver

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

I know about these, but it was not clear from the picture that there was clearance for the ratcheting head. Like how you can only use your ratcheting box wrenches maybe1/3 of the time because there's always something nearby that fouls them, but not a normal box wrench.


These look pretty great, though. I've seen something similar with Snap-On branding, but didn't know there was a knockoff affordable by mere mortals. Maybe I should get a set

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

Still haven't found the right paint to match what's on it. Tried a Krylon Fusion "Satin Rolling Surf" I found at Lowes, and it's pretty much the same color as the previously-tested Krylon Chalky Finish "Waterfall". I saw a Rustoleum 2X at Walmart that might be right, but I wanted to try the Rolling Surf first.
Tempted to just get some cheap paint from Summit or the correct color from http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/
I like the original silver-blue. Maybe something from TCP Global's Hot Rod Flatz.
Ice Blue Metallic isn't far off, as near as I can tell. I can't seem to find a chip sheet available for these paints. I have one, but it's outdated. Lot of new colors it doesn't have.

I know this is crazy, but have you tried asking the PO what paint he used?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

I'm also going to have to move that electrical outlet on the right wall (why is it even there, and allll the way to the front edge? Convenient for a hair dryer, I guess, but not for anything that stays plugged in to charge) to the back wall so it'll be to the right of the sink. Might sneak one behind the vanity for charging stuff (shaver, toothbrush) inside the vanity.

I bet it was intended for use with an electric razor, or, as you mentioned, a hair dryer. They used to be corded, you know.

Otherwise, looking much more productive than my weekend was.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

cakesmith handyman posted:

Holding things at the right height, like if you've got a bunch of bits of optical equipment you need to align they'll all have different working heights so you jack them up to the right heights.

At work we use them for this and also holding things in place as they are assembled.

I have a pair (one of which has a broken arm) that I've been meaning to use as adjustable speaker stands for the bookshelf speakers on my desk.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Have you put an LED or CFL bulb in place of an incandescent, in the opener? I've read that the switching regulators in LED bulbs in particular can generate enough noise to jam the receiver.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

It's not hoarding if it's all organised, and actually useful, right?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

Last time I did something like this was on my '68 El Camino that predated locking columns period.

Only by one year, though. What's fascinating to me is that, if you have a floor shift car starting in '69, the column still has all the column shift linkage parts in it, and they're all hooked up. It just doesn't have the actual handle on the rotating cylinder. So, as you shift the floor shifter, the cylinder around your steering column also rotates, just with no shift lever attached to it. All that just to lock the column!

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

Yeah, my parents’ ‘70 SS 396 Chevelle did that. Noticed the column bit rotating as a kid, and asked dad why it did that, so he explained the locking column thing to me.

My Cutlass currently has a column shift, but I have a console for it, and need to locate a floor shift column, the blank shift bowl to swap to my column, or just trim and fill mine. All made more complicated by the fact that o have a tilt column. May just install an aftermarket column - they’re surprisingly affordable. At any rate, I’ll be making that back-drive work. Easy since it already has the column shift. You just leave that all hooked up when you attach the shift cable from the floor shifter.

Most of what I've read about the affordable aftermarket columns has been negative, the consensus seems to be that the stock stuff is better. For what that's worth. If yours is all worn out, maybe it would be at least no more expensive to rebuild the original one?

For my car I'm planning on just popping the roll pin out and removing the handle, but leaving the mounting nubbin there for now. Looks like grinding/filling it isn't that much work, but if I bother to do that it'll be much further down the road.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
we got a regular smokey yunick in here. looking good

you're really not helping the scope creep of every project ever :argh:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:


Last, I don't remember what this pipe-strap (actually, radio install back-bracket, which is thicker) clamp was for, so I'll leave it for now.

looks like a coil bracket, lol

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
i assume he means the kind of person who is into putting camo on everything and also driving a crown vic might be a dipshit bootlicker, not that anyone would think its an actual cop of any kind

that said, i like the blue dazzle. its far enough from the digicam that my brain doesnt categorize it as "support are troops"-y and the splash of color looks cool

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

Zillow estimates $253K for the current value on the house, but I can't get over the fact that $32K is a third of what I paid for the house in 2000. And, yeah. I'm not a 6-figgie job haver.

this is really beside the point because 32k is outrageous anyway, but arent you a computer toucher, and a contractor at that? maybe it's worth joining those of us who have found better employment recently. the job market is super hot, at least in engineering

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

Also, look closer at the carb.
(Holley. I think 4-barrel, but hard to tell in the pic.)

i dont see pictures of the carb, so maybe im missing something, but some oem ford carbs were real holleys, with an autolite tag. and a holley 2300 is basically just the front half of a 4150 anyway, so they're easy to mistake at a glance

could be that these later ones use something different, though

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
ah, yeah it looks like a newer replacement holley 4-barrel to me. can't really see much other than that. weirdly, it doesn't have the usual center hung float bowl on it. maybe it's one of those truck avengers, or something

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
altech is usually a lot cheaper than phoenix or wiedmuller, but probably still a bit more than whatever from ebay/amazon

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
not if the control pressure comes from the tank side of the solenoid. doesn't really matter what state the 'noid is in if the compressor is off and empty.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

STR posted:

I assume there's also a lot more failsafes and redundancy in a factory vs someone's home garage. :v:

if we were talking about anyone else's factory, i might agree

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
qjets are spread bore. do you have a manifold that will accept both?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

won't have to mess with it another 200K miles.

lmao be careful saying poo poo like that, lest you tempt the fates

did you replace that front seal while you were in there?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
fyi, ace hardware tends to have JIS hardware in their bins.

also, are those D/P (:heysexy:) markings left over from the original jdm configuration, and they just never changed the stampings for usdm? or did they update them for export to avoid this kind of confusion

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

This is apparently not new rust, because there's filler and screen from one of those kits like the can with the wheel bearings:


when this image first loaded, i was sure this was a wasp nest.

Darchangel posted:

That's above the gas tank or frame rail, so I can't see it from below for the moment.


9" and slapper bars, he must have had some pretty ambitious power goals for this thing. what motor is in it? you probably said, but i dont remember.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Darchangel posted:

That's not a 9". Guess again! It does have 4.11:1 gears in it (IIRC.)
Original '55 rear axles had drop out center sections, on through I don't know when. Certainly all the Tri-Fives. An Olds axle, also a drop out center section, was an upgrade all the drag racers used.

To answer the other question, it's a 1957 283 bored .060", making it a 292. (Genuine) Corvette cam, factory Nova 350 HP 327 ci aluminum intake manifold, Holley 4-barrel (650 as I recall - I don't have it at the moment,) genuine "double hump" heads. Headers - I believe those were genuine Hookers.

huh! i dont really know 50s stuff too well (obviously); i had no idea chevy ever made an axle with a third member.

a lightly hotted up 283 is pretty cool and suits the car, though it probably isn't gonna be too earth-shattering. are you gonna get it running as-is?

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