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CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

i've observed this happening quite a few times - i think people assume that to minimize loading times this config is optimal. people don't realize that game loading is hugely and nearly universally CPU bound - i've got an NVME SSD as my boot drive and a platter for my games (other than games like apex, where loading in fast after a crash is a competitive advantage) and it works great, highly recommended.



i have this cooler! it's solid, i found mounting is a pain in the rear end but otherwise no complaints.

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CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

I mean, why not keep windows AND the games your currently playing on an SSD?

cause you can get an OK 1 or 2tb HDD for like, 30-40 quid, and you'd be very lucky getting an OK 1tb SSD for under 80. plus i had it spare from an old build and legit, OS on SSD and games on HDD is a very good price/performance sweet spot.

people get it twisted because if you are running your OS off the same HDD you're trying to load from that's when you get the slooooooooooow loading times - your OS is constantly talking to whatever it's stored on and that + loading a game = several minute wait.

e:

BrainMeats posted:

It's an old install of windows ok. I don't even know what version it started on. I even called Microsoft and convinced them to reactivate it after my last pc upgrade. Getting the OS on solid state is another reason for the build.

you would be surprised how significant a difference it makes. like, do it right now and you'll get a more noticeable quality of life performance boost than probably any other single upgrade you can make, shy of upgrading several generations of CPUs or something.

CoolCab fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Mar 24, 2021

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Yeah but windows is what, 40GB?

Get a 256 or 512 SSD and install the games you’re currently playing on the SSD, store the other games on the spinner.

i think i have a combined total of 2TB of SSD and 1TB HDD, and originally i did just that - use the steam archiving feature to move them around and keep it on quicker drives. it didn't take me long to realize doing that seemed like considerably longer than ingame loading, lol.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
yeah i don't mean to oversell it or whatever but the absolute first thing i would recommend to anyone is "make sure your OS is on your fastest drive"

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
you'll see a slight performance improvement with slightly higher speed ram, and if it's for gaming 16 gigs is plenty imo. easy upgrade in future if you wind up disagreeing too, just grab another kit, you have the slots for it. i want to say 3600mhz is the sweet spot for that gen but i'm sure someone can confirm the sweet spot. same with a better cooling solution, ryzen loves both and you'll get more performance out of it - but for gaming you're going to be most limited by that 1070 i think. still a killer card, fine for 1080/60 and higher in some games, maybe with compromises on settings, but i think it will be the deciding bottleneck in most scenarios?

please correct me if i'm wrong i'm kind of new to this PC optimization stuff.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:


Ram prices seem to have increased quite a bit since I last looked. You should hunt for 16GB 3600Mhz CL16. That’s generally the sweet spot. If you live near a micro center I’d go see what they have open box. Or hunt for deals until you’re ready to trigger pull.



ram is funny, the average price has trended up with the pandemic but it seems to go on promo (in the UK at least) all the frigging time. tend to get 16 gig kits cheaper than 32 too - they move a lot more 8 gig modules.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

The Grumbles posted:


If its his first time building and he's not super confident with that stuff, I don't think he should be trying to film himself doing it. You do want to be able to focus and pay attention to what's going on. You're more likely to miss things.



and take it as slow as possible. when i put this machine together last year - something i hadn't ever done from scratch before - the whole process took several days from the parts all arriving. it's very expensive and i didn't know what the gently caress i was doing and needed friends to talk me through some of the scarier parts - it took me literal hours to puzzle out the RGB switch and the reset switch shipping connected wasn't an accident and as such i didn't have a spare connection. i still hosed part of it up and didn't have all my fans running for weeks - it booted.

there's no magic trick to get good at anything it's all just practice. be reasonable on yourself the first go and if you're careful (and well supported) you'll pick it up in a jiffy, but i would hate to have strangers watching.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
there were parts of the 3000 stack that were also ridiculously impossible to find. the 3300x was doing the "impossible to find in any non-bundled context" thing long before the gpus started doing it and that's still true afaik

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

neogeo0823 posted:

So what are the appreciable differences between the Ryzen 5 3600, 3600X and 3600XT? Obviously price points, but I can never wrap my head around what the different designations mean.

I think at least one of them is just slightly clocked higher? I remember that being something GN complained about - that there was a price premium for an overclock you could do yourself quite easily.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Smythe posted:

still can't buy a card huh. that's fukken epic if you ask me

gotten worse, not better. looking that way for a bit, all sorts of problems in the supply chain - drought in taiwan on top of everything else.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Zarin posted:

What is it about silicon production that requires so much water? They're not almonds!

I have been wondering about this for awhile now, actually

iirc it's just a very labour intensive process and you can't operate something like that without toilets, drinking water etc.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Smythe posted:

ima just buy a 1660 gently caress sakes. kill me

it's rough bud. i could give you some tips but like, you basically have to go into the worst discord in the world and trade esoteric and quite often deliberately inaccurate knowledge with the gremlins that reside within until you luck into a card.

e: honestly tho the current wisdom is literally "go buy a 970 secondhand and wait" and lol you're already there

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Smythe posted:

yalls are too sweet and i am deffo feeling the love, very grateful. oddly i already have a 970 in my rig which i bought off a goon when he got a launch day 1080 (rich type goon) lol. idk my compy is all hosed up and can barely run dota2 or sc2 lol. ima try formatting her and see if she gets some new life. maybe too many porno viruses etc T_T

a 970 should be crushing those games, unless you're running at 4k or something when vram might make a difference. yeah flatten and reinstall for sure, make sure you're not thermally throttling because of dust or cause your paste has dried out.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Smythe posted:

used my old crusty brain to remember that TeraCopy exists, and it is based.

epic computer janitor software from the olden days: teracopy & dban =DD

honestly mate i'd just use the utility to make a USB windows boot drive that's up to date (google windows 10 installation utility tool) and use that. if you're using a password manager i can't stress enough how little of a pain in the rear end it is - install ur browser of choice, log into everything and you're done. you can even keep your steam drive, it's pro.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
while this is not absolutely always true, my impression was a 2tb SDD is cheaper than 2 1tb SSDs (and it leaves you more room for expansion). look around they go on sale quite a bit.

e: err didn't notice you've already bought. you're in better shape than i am i still have old 128 gig ones i got super cheap loose in my case lol

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

there are competing schools of thought on this but honestly my pitch is "just stick as many fans in there as there are holes for fans". they cost next to nothing compared to other components, the more you have in the less they need to run acoustically and a ton of fans lets you really push the performance without worrying about cooking your rig. build a wind tunnel in your case.

i have three (bad, choked, cheap case) 120mm fans pulling air in, two good fans exhausting and a bonus intake one on top, then two more on the cooler pointed directly at the exhaust. it meant i could get decent performance out of a lovely case and could spread the cost - pick up the fans a month later or w/e when they're on promo.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
yeah the 3090 is a really weird one - at launch i trashed it for being a productivity card with the serial numbers (and good drivers for productivity tasks afaik) filed off and being terrible value compared to the 3080 but lol these days 1500 seems reasonable.

at your exact same resolution (1440p 165hz) i run a 3300X and a quad core chip is, to date totally fine. any of the chips you mentioned will absolutely fine, although i know some VR applications can be a little finnicky - in terms of processing power you are beyond fine. a 3600 would probably be fine? in terms of just gaming at least - a 3090 will push 4k very easily if you wanna upgrade and at that point the CPU is almost never the bottleneck.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
honestly you could probably get away with a 3600, the previous gen version of that part. if you're looking for RAM + CPU + motherboard and you'd like that preassembled with a warranty I recommend CCL's ebay page very highly, they do quite competitive bundles that they've already installed the stock cooler on. having a look, this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CCL-4-6GHz-AMD-Hexa-Core-Ryzen-5-5600X-16GB-MSI-B550-A-PRO-Motherboard-Bundle-/114677642426?hash=item1ab351f4ba

is your ram, CPU and mobo (and afaik this mobo is fine) for just over 500 quid. you'll be able to clear under budget quite easily tbh.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
er, wait didn't notice you need an MATX board, i'm sure there are some on there.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
new case would help, but honestly before then i'd add a couple of 120mm case fans on the top - one intake and one exhaust, with the exhaust sharing the corner with the other exhaust. that will give you fresh intake for the CPU and more exhausting potential.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

neogeo0823 posted:



The first is between the mobo and RAM. The RAM's listed as DDR4-3600, but the mobo doesn't specifically list that it's compatible with that. I assume that's a huge issue, and I'll need to change out one of these products to rectify that?

nah, you're good. DDR4 is the standard, it determines the form factor (ie, it's shape) and compatibility generally, the second number is the maximum speed it can run at. the DDR4 standard runs at, i want to say 2400mhz or 2666 out of the box? but your ram has been tested to allow it to run at a higher speed of 3600mhz (technically an overclock although not really the kind you think of when you hear the term) with most compatible motherboard/cpus. it also has a little bit of memory on there to allow you to set it to the higher tested speed out of the box - "turning on the XMP".


quote:

The second questions is in regards to fans. The case I have has a fan in the back, near the CPU, then open spaces on the top, and on the front, for up to 4 additional fans. However, the motherboard's spec sheet only lists 2 system fan connectors. Considering one of those is already at the back of the unit, that leaves just 1 additional fan out of a possible 3 available for power. Should I look for a motherboard that has more fan connectors, or will 2 be sufficient? I'm honestly not sure, but I don't feel like it is.

So, I guess out of both of these problems, both would be solved by finding a new motherboard that can handle the things I'm looking at here. Is that the case? Should I go looking for a new one?

it really depends - i am not familiar with the case but some casefans will run off the motherboard via those fan connectors - they can also be split to run 2 fans off one header, although more than that is not typically recommended. these will typically enjoy some kind of "smart" system to allow them to spin up in response to need. however, some casefans instead are just run off the power supply directly - they might have a remote or switch somewhere that will allow you to manually set the speed but otherwise they can't communicate with the rest of the PC and as such are "dumb".

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

tuyop posted:

Wait you can put exhaust and intake fans right next to each other like that?

afaik? i have a horizontally oriented cooler so my case kind of makes an \ shaped wind tunnel, and the CPU has direct air intake on one side of it and two exhausts on the other. ymmv but i've had very good results with it.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Malaria posted:


And the RAM thing is just weird. It's a paired set, both 16gig sticks. They show up in the bios fine but if I try to boot it just hangs. I pulled one stick and it booted right up.



silly question, you're in the ram slots that your motherboard advises for dual channel operation? typically 2 and 4 i want to say?

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

RVT posted:

What's the thread recommendation for a case with a window that can fit a 3090 and at least two HDDs?

I've given up on the dream of a $700 3080. It would have been double what I've ever spent on a graphics card, but I figured it was worth it. Many steps in between, but now I think I have progressed to the final stage of - I will buy literally anything NewEgg lets me, including a 3090. In preparation, I'm trying to get an idea of what that might mean case-wise.

your case generally needs to be pretty huge for a 3090, and also needing a gigantic power supply (which are also very inflated right now) which can also impose restrictions.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

DamnGlitch posted:

Yeah I loved that list. Miss having an up to date one instead of reading the last ten pages of the thread to see what’s being recommended.

both chip makers and both GPU makers are competitive now, and you can only buy a tiny fraction of some of them (if at all). much more of a minefield for recommendations compared to the old days.

like, my personal recommendations would be pretty close to my current rig - a 3300X, a 3070, either a b450 or b550 board and at least 16 gigs of 3000mhz (or higher) memory. you can't buy that chip or card anymore though, because they released in the last year and were popular and as such can't be found anywhere.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Badger of Basra posted:

I built a new PC for myself in September of last year and bought an EVGA 2080 with the step-up option. EVGA just contacted me to say that my step-up is going forward, which would get me one of the 3080 FTWs that they came out with around that time.

Mainly because I am lazy and don't want to deal with the shipping right now, I wanted to ask: is still a good idea to do this upgrade right now, or has it been so long that there are newer/cheaper/better 30XX-type cards coming out and I should just get one of those when they are available?

your window with the step up program is hours, it might have already passed. depending on what you pay for it EVGA are offering you a paycheque here - there are no more modern cards right now other than the 3090.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
am i reading it correctly that there's only the one 92mm exhaust or intake, or are there some fans hiding in the front panel, sorry?

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Syle187 posted:

Correct, there is only 1 case fan, no intake or front panel fans, along with the stock cpu cooler.

nowhere near enough for that quantity of equipment imo. see where fans can be fit (if anywhere) at the front and top of the case, most likely four screw holes, buy a packet of cheap 120mm (a five pack of arctic f12 fans and a hub if you don't have the spare motherboard chassis fan headers) probably be where i start - replacing the cooler before addressing the airflow doesn't make much sense unless you wanted to go for an AIO with a radiator.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

The Grumbles posted:

The new AMD chips are designed to run hot, so that is actually alright. You might hit your boost clock more with a better cooler though - and whatever replacement you get will be much much quieter than the stock fan.

yeah it spooked me when i was hitting 90 spikes but that's normal - and yeah, totally agreed, i noticed a surprising performance boost with a decent aftermarket cooler. the wraith is incredible for a stock cooler and (imo) is part of the secret sauce that lead to AMD fighting back, but it's still a stock cooler.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
test it with one stick, clear cmos, check connections.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
tiny percentage. there's a correlation but not causation effect going on - extremely high end PSUs have high end components and more modern technologies. they are going to be much more efficient anyway, they don't need to optimize for it - at that point the certification is just marketing.

my current build has a plain white 80+ PSU in it (700w Smart RGB from Thermaltake) because I put it together in the depths of the first lockdown when everything was sold out or double RRP. it reviewed well and had a five year warranty, and i consider those more important than the efficiency rating.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
there's a pretty significant gap between the 3060 and 3070 fwiw - there's a middle ground card, the 3060ti, which is more of a cut down 3070 than an upgraded 3060. extremely good price/performance, in a number of applications. unfortunately it's one of the hardest parts to buy for that reason :(

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Phraggah posted:

Not sure if you were responding to my post, I'm ok with either chipset - was more listing flexibility because GPU availability is really that bad right now

yeah i was, making sure you were aware of the option :)

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
yeah i also originally just migrated the boot SSD over from intel to ryzen, and like most people eventually i wound up fresh installing anyway to address weird behaviour. it works but you will almost certainly find a problem with it eventually and as such i say bite the bullet.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Katt posted:

How much ram is useful in a computer used for gaming and photoshop work?


My current computer was a top end gaming rig 5 years ago and has 32 GB but most rigs sold these days have 16 with 32 as optional. Extra ram is pretty cheap as an over all cost so why shouldn't I go with 32 or 64 or even more?

couple of reasons for gaming specifically. first, ram has a floor and not a ceiling - you notice it when you have too little ram, having too much does nothing. the next gen consoles only have a combined 16 gigs of ram and vram and as such it's pretty unlikely a lot of development is going to be done on titles beyond that.

second ram speed has become incredibly important for CPU performance and as such the higher latency and tighter timings tend to be what people want to spend their money on - particularly with ryzen 16 gigs of 3200 CL16 are going to provide way more of a performance boost over 32 gigs of generic DDR4 2400mhz kit (despite probably costing closer than you'd think) and high capacity high speed ram is still very expensive. in terms of price/performance 16 gigs is a very sweet spot - honestly you could have gotten away with 8 until very recently.

finally there's an economic angle - because 8 gig sticks are the most in demand and have the highest volume they tend to go on promo or similar much more often as so many of them are being manufactured and sold. with 8 gig as the dominant paradigm most people are going to go for dual channel and maybe (if they have the option) leave two slots open for expansion in future. when 16 gig kits become the norm i expect 32 to be more normalized but it hasn't happened yet.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Ugly In The Morning posted:

I mean, the PS4 had what, 8GB? And the HZD port still ended up pushing my system usage to 21GB. It was because the port was bad, yeah, but 32GB gives you more wiggle room for dealing with when ports are hosed up. PC’s usually have more RAM overhead than consoles so I would expect more than 16 to be useful in the near future.



really? HZD has minimum 8 and recommended 16 - are you sure it wasn't allocated memory rather than used memory?

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

neogeo0823 posted:


So last time I posted this build, I was asking questions about RAM compatibility and case fans. My next question is on CPU cooling and related stuff to that. So, the Ryzen came with a CPU cooler, and I recall people said that that's sufficient for it. I also added the above three case fans to bring more air through the case(two in, 1 out plus the fan that came with the case). However, I've become aware of AIO CPU coolers and am wondering if it'd be a better idea to get one of those and use the fans from that to draw air into the case, or if I should just stick with what I've got going on already. On the one hand, case fans aren't exactly expensive, so no big deal there to add a few more. On the other, the two primary things being cooled in a rig are typically the CPU and GPU, so cooling the CPU with an AIO cooler and using that to bring air in that'll cool the GPU seems like it might be worthwhile? Maybe? What are the thread's thoughts on that subject as far as this parts list goes?

so the main pitch to water cooling is 1) it looks cool and 2) because you can add more/larger fans with larger radiators so you can, in theory, make a totally silent PC or something that you can really push with extreme overclocking (like, delidding your CPU extreme). performance wise the benefit is marginal, and a high end air cooler (what's the famous one, noctua d12?) will technically be both cheaper and quieter although often you need a very large case to make use of some of them.

unless you are extremely stressing your CPU with a beefy overclock or similar, those are the water cooling arguments, basically. you absolutely will be exhausting heat via whatever rad you choose but you need airflow over more or less anything in your case regardless - the VRMs on your motherboard need cooling too for example. you will also see some performance improvement just with an aftermarket air cooler - something like an arctic evo 12 esports duo or similar.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

neogeo0823 posted:

Welp, that settles that then; Don't worry about it as it's not something I'm really going to need. Thanks for the info!

no problem! :) i have a chip that's very similar to that (the 3300X) and i found that while the stock cooler is absolutely adequate you will see some performance increase even with a cheap aftermarket cooler. a close friend was kind enough to give me his arctic esports duo (barry is the man) when he upgraded to an AIO and i can highly recommend it, even though mounting it was a PITA lol.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

roomforthetuna posted:

Man, those SN550 *are* reasonably priced. Last I heard EVO was always the thing to do for SSDs, is that information also a decade out of date?
eh it's still a solid choice it's just the SN550 is that price/performance sweet spot.

quote:

So I was playing around on pcpartpicker trying to scope out the vague ballpark of what I want, and now I have more questions.

Last time I had a desktop PC the way of things was the motherboard had a lovely GPU on it. Now I see people are talking about whether the CPU has an integrated GPU - does that mean motherboards don't, or is it just different tiers of lovely? I was looking at this ASRock B550 which in the specs says "Integrated AMD Radeon Vega Series Graphics in Ryzen Series APU*" but then the asterisk says "Actual support may vary by CPU", what does that even mean?

think you have a slight misconception - it's not the motherboard that has an integrated GPU (or iGPU, as contrasted with a dGPU or discreet GPU), it's the CPU. when it comes to ryzen the rule is if it has a G in the title it has integrated graphics, otherwise it does not. a chip without integrated graphics can't even send a video signal, you always need some kind of dGPU paired with it. motherboards will list that they are compatable with iGPUs (and this is why they have video outputs) but unless your chip has the functionality it's not used for anything.

quote:

How do you tell if a PSU is any good these days? Another thing pcpartpicker was keen on doing was saying the PSU I selected didn't have a 4 pin connector that the motherboard wants and maybe that's okay. I was selecting Antec because ten years ago that was how you get a PSU that won't burn your house down, but to get one with that connector I ended up selecting a "Power Master", which sounds like a terrible idea.

someone already linked the LTT list, that's what you wanna pick from imo.

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CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Ugly In The Morning posted:

It’s a graphics card for less than a thousand dollars. It may have some driver problems but I would go for it ASAP.

also that's RRP for that card (or 790 usd as far as i can figure)- it's a really high end 6700 XT although that's kind of an atypical configuration it seems like? in the current madness it's closer to a good deal for sure - ouch it's 300 dollars more than the stock 6700 XT but cheaper than a scalper.

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