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Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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e.pilot posted:

Copy/pasting the old OP until I can put something updated together

Quoting for "this will 100% not happen" but man you could have at least updated the links. If we're starting a whole new thread *some* effort wouldn't go amiss.

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Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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e.pilot posted:

Quoting for 100% suck my dick

Look, I'm not here to be a dick for the sake of it but it would be nice if we had something more than a wall of text in nonstop "summer camp activity leader" tone. Would it help if I threw together some expansions with pictures/video? I don't mind doing the work, I just think this is a bit of a missed opportunity for getting people into cycling with the new forum etc.

Although now that I think of it, maybe that could be a thread all of its own, sort of a beginners intro to cycling deal? Might head off some of the repeated questions that always crop up.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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The trick with pedals is to step on the wrench instead of using your hands.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Fs in chat for me trying to buy any 160mm rotors anywhere

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Just spent several evenings trying to get some latest model 'easy fit' tubeless tyres to fit on some new 'easy fit' rims (and lo! that part was indeed easy) and then just losing my poo poo at the bead not engaging no matter what combination of precharge bottles/soapy rims/other witchcraft I tried. As a last resort before taking them to a shop I tried again with some older model 'absolute bastard to fit go gently caress yourself' tyres I had spare from a couple of years ago and wouldn't you know it they popped on first try. Needed a bead jack to get them on the rim initially but way WAY easier than last time I tried them.

The moral of the story? Combine too many 'easy fit' components and you end up with 'just won't loving work' components. Those earlier tubeless tyres are bastards to get on the rim for a reason.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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PolishPandaBear posted:

As annoying as is it to pretty much do twice the work, I've always had success with installing a tube first and then breaking one bead. This was even with a regular floor pump.

I can't visualise how this works, how are you getting the tube out/valve in?

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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HAIL eSATA-n posted:

Break the bead on one side and remove the tube. Insert tubeless valve, reseat bead. Now you're only trying to get one bead seated instead of two. Once it's seated, remove the valve core and insert your goo of choice.
I'll give it a shot next time I'm having issues, I think in my head it just seems like getting the valve in would be a real bear of a task.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Mate just take out the valve core and hit that sumbitch with a compressor until the bead snaps in place

Yeah that was the backup plan, don't have a compressor myself though.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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HAIL eSATA-n posted:

If you can get a much larger tube+valve out then putting just a valve back in is much easier

Yeah I was grouping it all under one task for brevity.

Also: compressors are cool and all but I'm not one of those nerds who pays 100 bucks for a tool I'll use a couple of times a year max. I spend enough on random bike poo poo as it is.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Holy poo poo the way you nerds are so into compressors they should rename this website Something Airful

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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It's like we finally solved the tubeless derail problem but then went flat out to drag ourselves back down into Hell

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Spend “several evenings” messing with a tire or buy a compressor isn’t a hard choice in my head

The point I was making is that not every tire/wheel combo goes on in the same way, not that it's some weird impossible task. My next step was to take it to a shop where they have a compressor, because they have a use for such a tool.

If you have the ability to collect $100 tools for edge cases where you've happily used other tools in the past, good luck to you, that's not me, stop trying to tell me I'm missing out on something here.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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meltie posted:

My Sigma Sports order had no haribo either, so now I don't know where to shop any more 🤷‍♂️



UK Haribo prices went up like 50% in the past month or so, maybe they're too pricey for them now

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Skarsnik posted:

grats on your upcoming etap upgrade :toot:

I think if you try to put that on a Colnago instead of EPS the factory sends the boys round

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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kimbo305 posted:

They'll zip tie the cables to your frame if they have to.

I thought EPS had full wireless now or is that something I've completely made up

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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I'm happy to let people ride in jeans and discover the limitations for themselves

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

Seems to me like a lot of the hatred at cyclists is unreasonably focused on lycra shorts and people don't understand that the padding in them is sorta necessary

At the same time, there are a bunch of cyclists who insist that lycra shorts are necessary in all cases when, if you're riding for under an hour, you probably don't need the additional comfort over convenience. I wouldn't ride in jeans for hours, and likewise I wouldn't break out the bibs to ride to the shops.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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frogbs posted:

I don't laugh at anyone on a bike, even an e-bike! Good on them for being one less car on the road. Also, there's no shame in being safe, and you also have no idea how far some of of these people are commuting. Not everyone can ride in a shirt and tie and show up presentable!

It was directed specifically at the unrestricted ebike crowd, who are generally a menace wherever they go because they're essentially riding an electric motorbike at that point (usually on a busy MUP because, of course)

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Looks like 6770 to me, pretty sure that bike is at least 10 years old and is honestly not worth much over $1500 or so, if that. So much has moved on technology-wise since then (11speed drivetrains, disc brakes, aero frames etc) that you'll be missing out on. Then again: pandemic tax, so it's worth may be more related to how much you need something right now.

The good news is if you ever want to upgrade to 11 speed di2 you just need the derailleurs, everything else will work with them. Maybe ask the shop if they can update the firmware for you, as you can't do it yourself without a pricey interface that you will never use for anything again. You'll need your old parts to be updated in order to work with anything newer you might end up using.

e: the other good news is that wheelset may well be a later addition and so could be 11 speed compatible as well.

Vando fucked around with this message at 22:02 on May 7, 2021

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Serendipitaet posted:

I once met a guy who kinda took it to the other extreme. He was riding an unregulated ebike, fully embracing vehicular cycling, while wearing a very loud bespoke tweed suit, expensive shoes and a white Giro aerohead.

Certain people shun style in favour of the "simply buy the most expensive thing possible" approach so I'm pretty sure I know what happened here.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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I spent 3 years with 172.5 on the left and 175 on the right because I didn't check the non-power crank I swapped out when I got a new bike and didn't notice until I went to put the old arm back on and saw "175" staring back at me.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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rt4 posted:

Yikes! Any goon preferred helmet mount, then?

Don't mount things to your helmet. While a bar mount may end up breaking your phone, a helmet mount may end up breaking your brain.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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learnincurve posted:

I’m trying to make the OP feel less bad because a thing I learned with teaching the mini how to ride this year is that you forget/memory hole how absolutely miserable hills are for a absolute beginner. You go from struggling to go up even the slightest hill, sweating and trying not to cry, to being able to eat it, albeit slowly, with a few weeks of regular riding* - mini still hasn’t worked out how to stand and ride.


*bonus point if it turns out your seat was too low.

Sure but you framed it as the ride being incorrectly advertised and the rest of the group being lovely, neither of which is true.

The main takeaway is that this is the kind of ride that you'll be in condition for after just a few more days of riding, but in the meantime holding your hand up and saying "that's me done today" is absolutely no embarrassment or holding anyone else back.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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It's important to let beginners know that it's ok to tire yourself out sometimes and that nobody is judging them for it, acting like it's some giant routing fuckup is just going to make people afraid to try new things.

It's pretty rich that you are the one calling the organisers dickheads lc but it's us saying "hey hold on now" that are being OTT in your book?

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

When I first started riding seriously I screwed up hills pretty bad because I kept trying to stand and push through too high a gear like I was an eleven year old on a single speed coaster bike.

Once I was told that you just put it into a lower gear and just sit and spin they became much easier.

The big thing for me with hills starting out was learning that you should probably be going a LOT slower than you think, and if you're going even a little too fast you blow up incredibly quickly.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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I still use a 520 because I already know where I'm going.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Sab669 posted:

At some point will I figure out a good way to load in my bike into my hatchback, or will it always be an awkward struggle of trying to shove it in, go around to the passenger side, pull it up a bit further, go back to the rear hatch and awkwardly push it in some more?

Put the seat forward, put the bike in drive side down (assuming LHD car, otherwise drive side up) with the drive side crank pointing backwards, bars rotated so they're facing up. Fork should sit in the space between driver/passenger, front wheel behind driver's seat. This can be done in one lift, check rear wheel is clear before slamming the hatch: if it's not jiggle it forward. You should never have to go to the front (it doesn't help anyway, it's impossible to lift from there really).

This works in a VW Up so should work for literally anything unless you drive an actual toy car.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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ElMaligno posted:

I have clipless pedals and clipless shoes and, even when I am clipped-in, I still pedal on them as if I was using platform pedals with normal shoes.

Any resources I can read up to improve my pedaling technique?

Pedaling is just pedaling, the only difference is your foot never falls off the pedal when you don't pay attention.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Why would you ever put it driveside down?

It doesn't fit the other way around.

Lex Neville posted:

it's pretty useful to learn to also pull instead of only pushing though, isn't it?

Pulling up does essentially nothing.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

A bicycle is symmetrical??

The interior of a car isn't, unless you can drive with your seat fully forward.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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MrL_JaKiri posted:

If you need the handlebars pointing forwards it isn't

Or the bars pointing up.

In fact it isn't symmetrical at all what the hell??

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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So I built up a 50cm frame so that I have a loaner for my shorter friends when they visit but it turns out it fits my 6ft body way better than any of my other 4 bikes. Physics is a lie.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Twerk from Home posted:

What's your stem / bar / spacer situation? What does this look like?

It's about +150mm stack, +50mm reach on the larger bikes, saddle height is the same on both. Think I'm maybe too stretched out so might be time to try out a real stubby stem.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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bicievino posted:

Bike mfgs listed sizes are dumb as gently caress.
I normally ride a 56.
I just got fit for a new frame, and the nominal size I'm getting is 48.5cm.

It has 464mm of reach (603mm TT). No measurement anywhere on the bike is 48.5cm. It makes no sense.

Out of curiosity... Is the 50cm frame you got a Pinarello?

No, it's a generic Brand-X cheapo thing. My other frames are all varying list sizes from 54 to 57 but I usually buy based on stack/reach from a fit I had 5 years ago so this is likely just my ancient body shrinking or something.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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TobinHatesYou posted:

Basically some brands still use ST height to label frame sizes on bikes with sloping TTs. Pinarello and Colnago still do this, which is why you’d be two different sizes on a something like a C60 depending on whether you go with the traditional or sloping version. Brand-X probably does the same.

Oh no, it's not that, it's way way smaller. The issue is either my fit changed or it was never a comfortable position to start with.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Your knees will break before your bike does, but the linked thread does mostly say 'people stand up too much when they don't need to, use an easier gear you chumps' which is pretty much correct.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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You post that as if any of us here have disagreed with that?

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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If you can justify the price on the new Garmin pedals then I'm seconding the Favero/Power2max recommendations, but if your budget is lower the Stages and 4iiii single sided cranks are both solid options.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

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Levitate posted:

Sheldon brown is an incredibly overrated resource and I wish people would stop pretending he is the end all to every discussion about bikes

He's a good tech reference for old/weird poo poo but I try not to read too much into ~the philosophy~ side of things

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Vando
Oct 26, 2007

stoats about
One of these upside down may give enough clearance? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08R7QDG6H

e: actually scratch that, you lose the rise when you turn it upside down, obviously.

Vando fucked around with this message at 13:42 on May 30, 2021

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