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Platystemon posted:lmao what they made an Airtag mount for inside the tyre. If that works ok, that makes sense. Other airtag mounts would be easy enough for a bike thief to rip off if they scanned the bike for an airtag because they look generally obvious enough since they have to be able to get their signal out (so nothing inside the frame). That would definitely deter a casual bike thief who knows enough to check for a tracking device because they'd either not be able to find it, or if they knew to check the tire, not want to spend the time or have the tools to do what they need to do to get it out. You need a fat loving tire with enough air pressure for that though. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 11:11 on Mar 3, 2024 |
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Mar 3, 2024 11:07
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Toalpaz posted:2 hours went by in a flash trying to change my tires. I don't know how the park tool guys do it in thirty seconds on camera. The air nipple wasn't aligned properly on the last tire - so I have to redo it tomorrow. Once you do it enough times and realize you don't have to be as gentle as you thought you had to, you can do it pretty quick.
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Mar 4, 2024 01:28
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As someone who did road tubeless years ago, I have a love/hate relationship with tubeless. I'm assuming that it's less of a pain in the rear end nowadays? I have been out of the bicycle game for ages so I don't know what's going on anymore and am using this thread to try to dip my feet back in before I rebuild a frame that I've been meaning to build for years. Looking at my old pedalroom page, oh my god has it been that long? https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/1994-performance-r-204-di2-22182 Platystemon posted:Dynaplug > bacon I just looked at what that is and yo that's rad. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Mar 4, 2024 |
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Mar 4, 2024 02:40
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Toalpaz posted:How do you get the air in the tire without a tube? It'd just leak out. Tubeless tires use a bead on the tire similar to what cars use to "hook" the tire into the rim to provide a seal. Rims made for tubeless tires either have no spoke holes, or run a liner (similar to standard rim tape, but thicker) to seal the spoke holes to prevent air leakage. Tubeless tires are harder to take off and put on (due to the bead), but the idea is that if you're running tubeless in conjunction with a liquid sealant to seal any punctures, you won't have to remove the tire other than to clean/replace the sealant or replace the tire entirely.
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Mar 4, 2024 03:05
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Platystemon posted:Or to replace the battery in the Airtag. It's suggested to replace sealant about every 6 months, and an Airtag's battery life is about a year, so you would just replace the airtag battery every other sealant change. Residency Evil posted:Apparently the UCI is currently reevaluating hookless tubeless though because of that crash. Maybe it's because I haven't looked at the tech in ages, but I've never liked the idea of hookless tubeless on road tires because of the tire pressures involved with road tires.
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Mar 4, 2024 03:19
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Hadlock posted:It's been so long I looked at this last it's all fallen out of my head at this point If it has a quill stem from that old, it's going to be 1" threaded. There are both 1" threaded and 1" threadless carbon forks out there, and 1" threaded and threadless headsets. Some of my older bikes (which is most of my bikes) have 1" threaded carbon forks on them, and some I converted to 1" threadless by switching to a threadless headset so I could use modern stems (with a 1" to 1-1/8" spacer). It just comes down to what you ultimately want to do and availability of parts. It's probably going to be easier to find a 1" threadless fork nowadays, and threadless is going to be easier for you to swap poo poo around to get the right fit unless you already know what you need as far as a quill stem (unless you get one of those threadless quill stem adapters). Threadless ending up being easier for me to deal with in general, because I ride a generally smaller bike frame, so all the threaded forks I was finding were for bikes with way larger headtubes so the threaded part of the steerer tube didn't go down far enough to actually reach my headset without a shitload of spacers. That then made it easy for me to find forks because I could get a threadless fork, or a bigass threaded fork and just cut off the threaded part. I've linked this before, but here's my retro-roadie 1994 Performance R-204, converted to 1" threadless: https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/1994-performance-r-204-di2-22182 by switching the headset to a Cane Creek threadless headset. Most of that stuff then got swapped over to my 1987 Centurion Lemans RS until the frame broke: 
HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Apr 9, 2024 |
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Apr 9, 2024 00:36
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kaaj posted:I'm planning to buy my first more expensive bike - ~5k or so, which means that I'll need to start caring about it not being stolen. Are there any particular locks which you'd recommend? Really depends on what you plan on doing with it. Personally, if I were to have a bike that I would take around to do stuff where I would even have to lock it up and let it leave my sight, I would just get a beater bike and make sure to lock it up next to a bike that's locked worse, and still operate under the assumption that someone is going to try to steal it or parts off of it at some point. Locks are only good for preventing outright crimes of opportunity; if someone sees your bike locked up and knows that it's an expensive bike, they're just going to put on a high-vis vest and cut your lock off with a portable angle grinder in broad daylight in front of everyone and nobody is going to do poo poo when they throw it in the back of a truck and gently caress off. Beyond that, all the usual top rated bike locks are still the top rated bike locks, and make sure to lock up anything that can otherwise be easily removed (like wheels) that you can't just take with you.
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Apr 16, 2024 09:44
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Hadlock posted:It sounds like you've done this before The parts you get depends heavily on what route you end up going. If you already have a complete bike and are just trying to replace the stock fork with a carbon fork, get everything set up first fitment-wise with the stock fork before looking for a carbon fork so you have a good idea of what you might need. If you are able to find a threaded 1" carbon fork that's the right size, you're pretty much just swapping the old fork for the new fork, with the only thing you'll have to do is remove the crown race off the old fork and put it on the new fork (assuming there isn't a crown race on the new fork you need to take off first) and then put everything back together. There are a variety of ways to take off/put on a crown race, ranging from expensive if you want to get the fuckoff Park Tool crown race puller and crown race setter, to cheap if you do it whatever weird cheap ways people suggest online to remove and install the race. If you opt instead to go with a threadless fork (or a threaded carbon fork that's too long), it's going to take a bit more work. You'll need to get a 1" threadless headset, which are still easy to get from the usual makers like Cane Creek, FSA, Origin8, Chris King, etc. From there, if your bike still has the original headset on, you'll have to remove the old headset off your bike and put on a new headset (again, this can be either expensive or cheap depending on the scale of "buy the expensive tools" to "saw some DIY videos on YouTube for cheap), set the crown race on the new fork, generally put everything together to figure out if you need to cut the fork steerer tube and how much you need to cut it by (there are a variety of ways you can do this, from pipe cutter to hacksaw with guide to angle grinder; just make sure the cut is straight). Once you're sure of the length and have all your spacers and stem put on (there are 1" to 1-1/8" shims out there you can buy to use modern stems), get everything all tightened up appropriately; if your steerer tube is carbon, you can only use an expander compression plug to get the right headset tightness, if your steerer tube is metal, you can use either a compression plug or the whole star nut and bolt way of doing it. I prefer using compression plugs regardless because it's less a pain in the rear end. quote:In addition to that trek, I have a lead on a Vitus 979 which I guess is a French top of the line press-fit aluminum bike that's epoxied in place for good measure? Yeah those were a thing for a while. I have a Raleigh Technium 400 from like 1988 or something that's a bonded aluminum frame also, but I only ever used it on the trainer, because to be honest, I no longer trust in the ability of the epoxy used to keep the bike together because it's all old as poo poo. As it sits currently in the garage compared to the pic, it's a freakshow with mostly SRAM Red poo poo on it converted to 1" threadless with a Kinesis fork and Chris King headset. 
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Apr 16, 2024 10:38
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), and all my bikes since I was 6 years old have been red
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tarlibone posted:
If you want to be able to brake from the tops, the proper way is to add in-line brake levers. The problem with suicide levers is that the way they are positioned don't give you enough braking power because of leverage so you don't get full braking power.
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May 12, 2024 05:19
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