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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

What's a good vendor for inner tubes? I need to replace a Schwalbe #19 tube that fits a 700x48c tire. Looking for something heavy duty, since the last tube developed a pinhole leak on the seam after about 200 miles.

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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

If I have 700x48 tires, am I asking for trouble using a 700x28-35 tube?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

More inner tube woes. The other week I got a pinhole on the inner seam of my rear inner tube so I replaced it. 50 miles later, I got a pinhole on the inner seam of my rear inner tube. Sounds like an open and shut case, right? I thought so too, but the pinhole on the new tube is in a different place.

Old puncture (tiny hole on the seam near the scotch tape), at about the 8:00 position relative to the valve:


New puncture, about 2 spokes counter-clockwise from the valve:


Same new puncture, flipped around to show the other spoke hole where it might have been if I got the tube flipped around by accident:


The rims are 50-622. The old tube fit 44-62mm width. The new tube fit 30-45mm, so no surprise it burst.

What do you think, should I replace the rim tape? Any special way to clean the rim? Or should I just use a tube that's big enough and go ride?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Yeah, I didn't realize that 700c and 29" rims were both 622mm according to ETRTO sizing when I bought the tube that burst, so I feel a lot better about looking at big wide 29" tubes rather than trying to find the largest 700c tubes.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Edit: nevermind, you got it

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Dumb question: I've got a Shimano Nexus 8-speed internally geared hub. I don't really love the revoshift twisty shifter it came with. Could I replace with an 8 speed (for lack of a better term) clicky lever thumb shifter?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

I believe the Alfine and Nexus pull ratios are the same. If so, you can use this.

https://www.treefortbikes.com/Shimano-Alfine-SL-S503-8-Speed-Rapidfire-Shifter-for

Neat! Thanks.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

I've found it's easy to use a one-size-too-small torx driver and strip out your tool and your bolt, but if you use the right sized driver (namely, the largest one that fits) you can go nuts.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

I need one of these:
https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/b...m-frames-black/

But I'm in the USA. Any ideas where I can find one and not pay 10-20x the cost of the part in shipping? (I've also left a voicemail with the shop I bought it from, maybe the'll have something).

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Maybe. If I had nylon filament. I could probably make it work with PLA+. I whipped something up out of a leftover scrap of Kydex that will probably work fine until I can get the real part or get around to modeling the part.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Kick stands? Center stands are where it's at (for both loading cargo and generally getting in the way).

Unrelated: My wife got a peloton and I'd like to be able to use it too sometimes. Unfortunately my left ankle is fused and gigantic and bonks into the crank sometimes. It's just enough to be irritating / mildly painful after a few minutes. Are there any spacers I could get that would move the pedals outboard by about 5-10mm? Alternatively, are there any long spindle LOOK Delta pedals I should be looking for? They use a standard 9/16" thread.

Edit: apparently I can just stack a few black oxide washers between the pedal and the crank arm?

Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 9, 2021

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

kimbo305 posted:

Neat. Looks like both the bushing and the helicoil have loctite as the first option for securing.
I wonder how the tolerances work out such that the pedal to bushing fit is tight enough to sink the bushing into the tapped crank but also loose enough to be backed out. Is the bushing butting against the head of the pedal axle on the way in?

The fix that Park Tools describes uses threadlocker on the bushing-to-crank interface. I think proper Helicoil relies on spring tension to not back out.

edit: I misread your post. Sorry!

Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 17:05 on May 17, 2021

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

I got my bike back from the shop a couple weeks ago, and the sidewall of my back tire is very lightly rubbing against the cafe lock in one spot on every rotation. Is this something I can fix by deflating the tire and kinda massaging out the high spot, or should I tweak the alignment of my rear wheel using the adjusters?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Al2001 posted:

Work out if your tyre is actually bulging or your wheel is bent (out of true.) You might be able to do this by just observing it as it spins. Tyres shouldn't bulge, ftr, so if it's that you need to replace it. Either way, if it wasn't doing it before the bike shop had it, ask them about it.

They might have installed the wheel a tiny bit skew as well? That would cause more than a spot of rubbing though.

https://thumbs.gfycat.com/GenuineBeneficialKoodoo-mobile.mp4

The wheel looks pretty true. It looks like the tread / sidewall on the tire "wobbles around", for lack of a better term. It's a Metropolitan Palmbay C1779 in 28x2.00, for reference.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Alright, the rubbing seems fixed-ish. I aired down and massaged the bead a little bit in the two spots where it's rubbing. On the first try, I got rid of one of the rubbing points. On the second try, I made them both worse. I think the third try is the charm, but we'll see how it sounds when I take the bike for a ride. If it bugs me, I'll switch to a Schwalbe tire.Thanks for your help, everyone!

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

700x35C. You'll usually find tubes that fit ranges of tire sizes. It'll be expressed like "700 x 28-35".

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Pennywise the Frown posted:

It snapped off.
So no matter what other dimensions are listed, as long as it says 700x35(in that range) I'll be ok?

Yeah, the tire dimensions are saying the same thing in different ways. Let's break it down

35-622 - This is the ISO size of the tire. 35mm wide when inflated, 622mm in diameter at the beat seat.

700X35C - 700 is the size in the French system. 700 is theoretically the outside diameter of the tire in mm. 35 is, again, the width.

28X1 5/8 x 1 3/8 -- 28 inches in diameter, 1 3/8 inches wide, and 1 5/8 inches tall, I guess.

Everybody's favorite bicycle nerd Sheldon Brown has a lot to say on the matter.

https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

The inner tube is stretchy and flexible and will conform to the inside of the tire. It's pretty forgiving as long as the size is approximately correct.

But also, don't forget:

vikingstrike posted:

Yep. As kimbo said though, make sure the valve stem is long enough.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

SimonSays posted:

There isn't enough steel to make certain bike parts this year. It's been weird.

Just make more stuff out of carbon fiber :homebrew:

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Voodoofly posted:


Spent an hour working on my sons bike until he finally told me I was being mean to the bike and had to put it down so it could sleep.

I finished up on it after he went to bed.

That's adorable!

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

The only worse crime is slotted screws.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Dumb question about Slime inner tubes: I had a puncture yesterday, and my tube self-sealed and lasted another 30-or-so miles. I don't see any debris when I inspect it. Should I patch the puncture, or am I good to just keep riding?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


The motion passes

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

I dropped my bike in my apartment hallway this morning and snapped the tip off of my Magura HS22 front brake lever.



Is the best solution going to be replacing the whole lever assembly, or can I find a replacement lever by itself? If I have to replace the whole assembly, what's a good vendor for it, and what is a good brake bleeding kit?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

SimonSays posted:

Magura stuff is... Special. My first thought would be to write Magura or check their manuals to see if there are individual repair parts listed. You'll need a Magura-specific bleed kit too.


Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

I believe you want part number 4055184014165. Looks like it uses a pin.

Thanks, I was worried I wouldn't be able to buy it piecemeal when google results didn't turn up anything promising. I'll see if my LBS can source the part for me, and how much they'll want to swap it out / do the bleeding too.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Why would you need to bleed it? It’s just knocking the pin partway out, removing the broken lever blade, lining up the new one, and knocking the pin back in.

I mean, if I can't get just the lever and have to get the whole assembly. (On second thought, you're right. If I have to get the whole assembly, I can just pull the lever off of it and replace it that way. Duh)

kimbo305 posted:

Do you grab that part of the lever? If not, I'd probably just superglue it back on.

OK, good point. I'm pretty sure I put the broken part in one of my panniers. I'll try to find it tonight.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Dammit, quote is not edit. You'd think I'd be better at forums by now.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Dumb question: is there a way to keep my saddle from sliding backwards? I've got a Brooks C-17 saddle, and it keeps working its way into its most rearward position, which means my pants rub against the saddle clamp bolt. Should I just tighten it more?

Edit: looking at it more closely, am I missing part of the clamp?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

SimonSays posted:

Get a nicer seatpost

E: not a joke, that type of seat clamp was always awful and yours is deformed and hosed up. A cheap seatpost will be 24$ and a nice-ish one like 60.

Fiiiiineeeee. If I'm spending money on it, I might as well spend some more and put a suspension seatpost in there. It's my commuter after all.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

CopperHound posted:

I can't tell what's going on there but it doesn't look like the pieces are in this order.


Yeah I don't know how I lost some parts the last time I had it apart, but I think that's what happened.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

e.pilot posted:

Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread:

Somebody remind me when I'm not on my phone

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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

My instinct would be to go with the brazed/welded sleeve, but absolutely, steel can be welded as strong or stronger than the original piece. I agree, call a frame builder and see if they'll fix it.

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