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You can try to get some soapy water in there to reduce friction. And drink a beer.
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Aug 2, 2020 10:34
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 17:59 |
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Bad news: Shimano stopped making the un55 and the replacement un300 seems to be of lower quality. All the ones I've encountered have had pretty rough bearings out of the box. Really sucks if you're running square taper.
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Sep 21, 2020 18:13
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First of all that part is called a seat post, seat tube is the part of the frame the post slides in to. Reading the first sentences I was expecting a wild ride in diy framebuilding. The correct size depends on the tubing used on the frame - basically how expensive it was. If it's not a high end frame 25,4mm was a pretty common size in the 70s. The Sekines you linked are their top models from the period. Can't tell from the photos what "level" your frame is but the lug being squeezed together like that isn't that uncommon in my experience. 1,2mm too small seat post shouldn't really work at all. Have you been able to ride the bike sitting on the saddle? The first thing in any case would be to try if the seat post is free or not. After you have it moving you should be able to tell if it's the correct size or not. The post should just fit inside the tube all the way down. If it doesn't feel right I'd take it to the lbs since it might take a couple of tries to find the correct size.
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Nov 16, 2020 20:49
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You mean uniglide cassettes? Nos is the only option as far as I know.
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Dec 13, 2020 23:01
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I hate the connecting pins on Shimano chains so whatever minimal performance loss by going to kmc (or similar) is worth the missing link.
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Dec 17, 2020 19:39
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Can't see from the video but make sure the pad isn't too high so it sticks underneath the tire when you release the lever.
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May 12, 2021 19:57
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https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html Here's the Sheldon Brown article on checking the frame alignment and bending it. The string method is how you check the frame is roughly straight.
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May 18, 2021 18:44
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Anyone here have experience of 8 speed Miche Primato cassettes on Campagnolo exadrive hubs? It's the only new cassette you can buy for them. I think the lockring is loosening when I ride it and it ends up feeling like I have a chain skipping on worn cassette. Both are new. The Miche lockring was trash so I'm using the original campy one and tightening it to the tight as hell spec of 50nm. I haven't tried locktite yet.
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Jun 14, 2021 19:32
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Pretty sure the hanger needs replacing too.
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Jun 22, 2021 14:11
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kimbo305 posted:It was the paint that prompted me to ask. It's a presumably Maxway made Surely Lowside: Ime surlys come with a thick coat of paint but the frames are usually otherwise ok. Bb threads often are clean but I would still chase them personally since it's really fast too if the threads are fine. Now's also a good time to drill a sewer hole under the bb shell if it doesn't have it.
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Jul 5, 2021 06:12
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kimbo305 posted:Should I sand down the surfaces anyways? The lowside has IS mounts right? I wouldn't worry too much about the paint on those since you probably have the adapter and have usually enough adjustment on the brakes.
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Jul 5, 2021 19:13
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:SRAM titanium torx bolts are made of cheese. I’m terrified whenever I have to touch them Magura bleedport screws. Tiny torx is the easiest part. Screw is half plastic so when it breaks you end up with the metal half in the lever. Torque spec is ridiculous 0,5 nm which probably means somehow gently caress off in German.
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Aug 31, 2021 18:50
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tylertfb posted:I need to replace the rear derailleur on one of my bikes. It has an 8-speed Campy mirage groupset. I need to replace it with an 8-speed campy rear derailleur, correct? Is there another combo that will work, if I don't want to replace the shifter and/or cassette? In addition to the rd 8 speed campy is a system of it's own where the hubs only take 8 speed campy cassettes. There's also two types of hubs but can't remember the difference. New cassettes are available from Miche though. If it's just the RD that's probably doable but if it's more it likely makes sense to replace everything starting from the wheels since new components haven't been produced in ages.
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Oct 7, 2021 06:58
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kimbo305 posted:I was working on a Pashley with a B&M Lumotec light, which uses this bulb: Looks like a type hs3 halogen bulb. No idea where to buy one in US. Led replacement is probably a good idea but don't flashlights have DC instead of AC or the other way around?
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Nov 18, 2021 18:44
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kimbo305 posted:Halogen or just normal incandescent? Hs3 is halogen and so's the bulb you linked. Don't know if you can put in something other than halogen. I checked and bike dynamo produces AC and leds take DC so that's not gonna work straight away.
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Nov 18, 2021 20:10
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kimbo305 posted:I have got a Sora 3503 triple, and a BB RS500 bracket, which doesn't come with spacers. Do I need spacers for a triple crank? There's a seal-side cover type spacer on my current working setup, which could be #6 on this diagram?: I've done this once more than a year ago but I think Shimano has a special kit of spacers for road triple ht2 cranks and I think it's parts 5, 6 and 11 on that picture. The bb had just the normal spacers for the frame. I think I ended up using just part of the kit in the end because with all of them the lefthand crank would fit too loose. Would the end result be the same with just some spacers under the bb?  Probably.
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Jul 25, 2022 19:46
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Slavvy posted:Is there a difference between alfine and Nexus that's more than just more/less fancy than? Is it that it's compatible with brifters or something? No. The cable pull is different and riding the nexus constantly in between gears is gonna gently caress up the hub. Nexus might even have different amount of cable pull for different gears so you can't really get around it. The same goes for alfine and the only compatible brifters are electric. I think I've seen maybe microshift bar end shifters for nexus sometime so I'd look into that if you want nexus / alfine and dropbars.
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Aug 1, 2022 05:30
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CopperHound posted:disc brake support. They make disc brake nexus hubs now. There's maybe no thruaxle nexus? I tried looking for a difference and comparing nexus 8 and alfine 8 the range is exactly the same and the weight is within 10 grams so I'm guessing the difference isn't huge.
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Aug 1, 2022 06:03
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Jan Heine wrote sometime ago that he predicts the enthusiast field is gonna split between electronic shifting or special down tube friction shifting (guess which he's selling). I tested my friend's desmodromic Cyclo rear derailleur from the 1940s and the shift feel is superbly light with no spring in the RD to resist so Heine may have a point here.
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Aug 2, 2022 17:23
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The smaller rim diameter with a fatter tire also keeps the weight close to same as bigger rim with smaller tire which supposedly helps more with handling than the same combined diameter. The original 650b tire was 32-584. In the French system number is wheel+tire diameter in millimeters and the letter is roughly the tire width. So 700c is 39-622 and 700b is 35-630, the 27" size. From what I've read making low trail handling work with something like 39-622 tire is really hard so it makes sense the 650b size was preferred on the classic French tourers and randonneuses that the modern use of the tire size outside of mtb context is referring to.
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Aug 15, 2022 06:43
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You can try basically flushing the insides of the shifters with wd40 or something similar. This can free up gunk inside and make the ratchets engage. Of course if they're worn they're worn but the wd40 trick will take only 5 minutes of your time.
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Nov 23, 2022 06:52
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Can't see why it wouldn't work, the cranks look pretty much identical.
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Mar 28, 2023 20:10
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Lex Neville posted:In the meantime I've discovered that the inner ring on the FC-563 apparently/probably has a BCD of 92 mm, whereas the inner ring on the FC-5703 has a BCD of 74 mm... so that's one reason it possibly won't work. I guess I'll make sure to bring an inner ring with a 92 mm BCD, such as the FC-6703, along as well, just to be sure. Ugh, I thought they used non bullshit bcds with that look of cranks.
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Mar 29, 2023 06:47
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I might be wrong but I don't think the cap can really fall off if the pinch bolts are tightened to the correct torque with the crank being inserted deep enough on the axle. Kinda like a threadless headset where you can remove the top cap once the stem is tightened without the bearing coming loose.
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Apr 14, 2023 19:52
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wooger posted:100%. Though hopefully safer than the stack of spacers + dodgy steerer extension. That bike's a Grant Petersen design and I guess the owner's gone for a modern Rivendell fit for which that is comparatively tame. I think the fit probably works for the rider but it's used more as a touring than a road bike. Though looking at the seatpost a size larger could have been better. E. Oops didn't realise it was a loathsome birds own bike. I think it's cool. Havana Affair fucked around with this message at 10:11 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 10:06
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Some cheaper Shimano cranks at least also come pre-greased.
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Jun 1, 2023 06:43
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Mederlock posted:Wheels are Araya 27"x1-1/4" , looks like it wants wired tires? The wheel size is 630 or 27" and supply of tires is pretty limited. You aren't likely to find anything that isn't slick. Swapping the wheels to 622 or 28" (yes this is somehow smaller, the inch sizes on bicycle wheels don't make any sense) usually is possible, you just have to lower the brake pads about 4mm. Edit: you might need new brakes for this looking at the pictures. But with 622 wheels you would have plenty of tire options and even a bit more clearance. Whether the swap makes sense kinda depends on if you can find cheap new wheels. It's a lot easier than swapping the cranks though for sure. Havana Affair fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Jun 8, 2023 |
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Jun 8, 2023 06:28
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bicievino posted:A shimano BB-UN300 is like... $15 and will last forever. This was true with the un55 but the un300 is poo poo. I've seen some get completely destroyed in a year of riding. Granted it's still very cheap and I don't know if there's anything much better available that don't cost ten times as much.
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Jun 9, 2023 05:11
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You can maybe get some generic jockey wheels for the derailleur, just match the number of the teeth. The bolt might be some weird size though but that's hard to say before. For the brakes the important thing is to have the correct reach for the calipers - that's the distance between the bolt and the brake surface. They should be non-recessed nut type too. All drop bar levers should fit your handlebars. Just the parts can be 150 dollars new though.
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Jun 18, 2023 05:45
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Is the pad hitting the disc at the correct height?
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Jun 27, 2023 06:49
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Llyr posted:Can you adjust the brake lever on a hydraulic brake system? My rear brake (avid juicy) lever has been getting loose and now there is about two inches of nothing before it engages the brakes. And how often should you bleed a hydraulic system? Some of the levers have reach adjust but that sounds like it needs a bleed and I'd check the pads for wear as well. Two inches of nothing sounds like the territory where I would be worried about there being a leak in the system which would mean replacing the brake. Normally you bleed them when they start to feel empty or spongy. You can usually check against the other brake, they should feel about the same. If the lever hits the bar you definitely have to fix it.
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Jul 11, 2023 06:57
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Rim brake 650b is tough. There's only a handful of rims available in the world and even fewer ready wheelsets available. Alexrims make most of those rims at all price points fwiw. Going from 630 to 584 is probably also gonna mean brazing some cantiposts to the frame and fork since you'd be lowering the brake pads 23mm. In short I wouldn't bother unless the frames are super nice and even still I would think about it hard.
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Jul 11, 2023 17:58
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Blackhawk posted:: Full length housing is just gonna introduce more possible points of friction and flex to the shifting system so there's no point in it imo. Maybe if you knew it would be caked in mud regularly, like in cyclocross races, it would make sense. If a bearing feels fine it's fine, no point in changing them.
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Jul 14, 2023 07:45
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Normal tubes with removable valves (schwalbe at least) can also have sealant inserted to them. Results may vary but likely it's not gonna be worse.
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Jul 18, 2023 16:19
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You can probably just tighten the wheel in and the frame will squeeze the 2,5 mm on both sides. The wheel may or may not sit exactly in the center. Otherwise with quick release you need a longer axle and some spacers on it and with solid axle just some spacers.
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Aug 13, 2023 12:16
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Any opinions about the best truing stand for professional use? The park tool whatever is the baseline.
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Sep 22, 2023 17:59
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bicievino posted:For professional use the main difference is you're looking for things that speed you up. I've been kinda thinking the best solution would be two stands, one for truing and one for wheelbuilding, but there's really only space for one. The park tool one is pretty good for truing - wheel goes in quick and eyeballing the true with calipers is often good enough. Ours is just losing the dish adjustment constantly despite a complete clean and regrease and numerous centerings. It gets annoying when building a wheel and you have to take it out constantly to check the dish with the separate gauge. There's a rebuild kit available that I might still give a go. The way the hub mounts to the p&klie and having to zero the gauges etc. would probably be extra steps and overkill for just correcting a few spokes but really nice for building a wheel. I guess the Abbey could be the best of both worlds but that's a lot of money for something no-one's ever used yet.
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Sep 24, 2023 09:02
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Is it too tight? You should be able to move it easily up and down a bit.
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Oct 15, 2023 17:39
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Yeah, v brake levers have a different pull ratio to road or cantilever or whatever. If you're unsure which you have you can measure the distance from the lever's pivot point to the cable anchor point. V brake levers have a distance of 35mm and cantilever levers 28mm. In practice these distances vary a little between models. E. To add, Shimano started selling v brakes only in 1996 and introduced them on the xtr level (  ) so there's plenty of 90s mtbs without them. They didn't invent the design but made it popular.
Havana Affair fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Nov 5, 2023 |
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Nov 5, 2023 08:22
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 17:59 |
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kimbo305 posted:But V brakes designed for cross bikes (that use road levers) would have an appropriate ratio for road, right? I know plenty of people were using TRP CX9s and CX8.4s before disc took over. Those are mini v-brakes as opposed to normal v-brakes and yes they work with road levers but not v-brake levers. I think the arms are shorter which changes the mechanical advantage. This pretty much makes them incompatible with mtbs because they wouldn't clear the tires.
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Nov 6, 2023 06:15
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