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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Spoke overlap/contact points?

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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

CopperHound posted:

Thomson seatposts like cracking up there and they will tell you to pound sand because you didn't use a torque wrench. (Nobody uses a torque wrench for their saddle clamp)



Why are Thomson posts so highly regarded? Their hardware is soft as pudding, they seem to popularize zero offset posts that help virtually no one with fit, and their setbacks are so goddamn ugly. Plus, their collars suck too. No consistency on sizing at all. Are branded seatpost shipping bags what people think is worth the price of admission?!?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

kgibson posted:

Update about this mystery noise: seems to have been loose rear wheel spoke or spokes. I retensioned them all, added a dab of lube to points of intersection, and had a silent ride today. Hopefully that'll be that!

Where's my certificate of appreciation? ;D

As for seatposts, when I was trying to find a post for my Rockhopper -> gravel build basically everything I read said that except for some very edge cases setback posts don't make sense. TT's and weird fit situations were the common exceptions. Got any examples of more "general use"? I'm genuinely curious!

Edit - stuff like this https://analogcycles.com/zero-offset-seatposts-make-zero-sense-mostly/

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

kgibson posted:

If you're ever in socal I'll buy you a beer 😁

Bless u

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

jammyozzy posted:

I feel this post, I'm pretty tall with long legs so by the time I've got the saddle high enough of a lot of frames I'm now stretching for the bars. The only way I've found to fix it is a straight post with the saddle scooted forward, but I was considering a forward post on one of my bikes.

Isn't this like the classic "don't adjust reach with saddle setback" thing? I.e. change stem??

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003


Lol what problem is this geo trying to fix, low bridge clearance?!?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

6/7/8 chains are cross compatible. Just make sure you get a chain that is long enough for how many links your current chain is. You’d need to cut the chain down to be the same length as your current chain, presuming it’s the right size.

Buy a chain with a quick link vs. a chain pin. Much easier to live with.

Yes and not sure how much you already know but you'll need a chain tool to shorten the new chain to match your old one, and maybe a set of quick-link pliers to connect the new chain up when the length is set.

You might be able to get away with snapping the quick link in w/o the pliers (set it, and then stand on a pedal while stationary to lock it) but if you ever want to take it off for cleaning or maintenance then definitely get a set of pliers.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

How did Thomson get such a solid reputation with such poor quality? I bought a seatpost clamp from them that was at least 3mm wider in diameter than advertised. A $5 no name one was within 0.1mm of spec.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Lex Neville posted:

A ride fixed the noise... :blush:

I was gonna say this. Went from Campy 10sp to Force 22 on my road bike and was like "wtf it's so loud". Quieted down nicely after a ride or three.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

bicievino posted:

I use Phil Wood's tenacious oil for freehubs and cassette bodies. You don't want a tacky grease on the ratchet mechanism because it will only partially engage, slip, and get damaged.

Could honestly get away with just using wet chain lube IMO, but yes this stuff is great

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Man_of_Teflon posted:

the metric I always hear is 1" of flex total up and down in the center, but I think in practice just focus on avoiding any binding at the tightest spot while getting it close

with cheap cranksets the tightest to loosest spots vary so widely that tight is almost binding while loose is almost falling off :(

Half inch per Park Tool, but that's from pin to pin so yeah maybe closer to 1" from outside-top to outside-bottom of the link:

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/chain-replacement-single-speed-bikes

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Aero737 posted:

No coop that I'm aware of and not too attached. I picked it up for $100 and I wouldn't want to put more than 60 or 70 into it.

I'd be surprised if you could even do the brake changes you want for under 100. I don't think the derailleur jockey wheel missing tooth really matters.

Throw a new set of brake pads on it and see if it stops to your liking. Clean the braking surface too. Kool-stop salmon pads are well regarded I believe.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

EvilJoven posted:

Not if it was at just the right point to snag and cause the pad to basically bounce along the rotor, it could very possibly be that, and only triggered when the frame flexes a certain way. It's worth spending the few minutes and no cost to check.

SRAM brakes are such a pain in the rear end. Much smaller clearance to work with. DOT, and then there's the chronically failing level and guide levers I'm not sure they ever actually fixed.

My Sram rear brake squealed at low speeds. Swapped pads w the front, problem solved. Cleaning rotors and pads did not. FWIW

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Platystemon posted:

Are tubeless conversions using split tubes garbage for babies?

Should I use tape?

Yes and yes. It's cheap, why risk leaks/hassle?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

Did they run homemade sealant back then? Did sealant predate rim tape and tubeless valves?

Maybe just the automotive fix-a-flat that's been around for a long time??

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

No idea but that's a dope bike

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Withnail posted:

OK my dumb rear end finally figured out how to read the compatibility matrix. I need BT-DN110 battery, EW-RS910 junction, SD50 cables. Building bikes used to be a little simpler.

AXS BABY!!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Platystemon posted:

Stop using brake cables for your shifters.

The reverse is worse, but yeah

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Salt Fish posted:

Customer states bike does not shift. Customer observed oil dripping off shifter and rear mech.

https://velo.outsideonline.com/road/road-racing/first-ride-rotor-uno-hydraulic-drivetrain/

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Withnail posted:

I'm connecting up some new hydraulic brakes on a road bike, should I be connecting into these couplers or just run the line directly into the shifter?



Wouldn't those be so you can remove bars more easily?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Doesn't help in the above issue, but my recent discovery was that centering calipers is best done with light to medium pressure on the brake lever vs hard. Tighten the bolts very lightly then switch back and forth between them to snug up tightly.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

The important parts re:replacing like for like are:

Cassette vs freewheel (that's a freewheel)
The number of cogs
The number of teeth on each cog (particularly the smallest and largest - part will be listed as "XX-YY" where XX is the number of teeth on the smallest and YY the largest)

If you're replacing the freewheel you should get a chain checker and find out if the chain needs replacing too - a worn chain will skip on a new freewheel. Chainring(s) on the crankset too...

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Since the binding is asymmetrical perhaps the BB shell needs facing??

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

Big same. I thought "I'm trying to change the flat bar levers on my 90's cantilever equipped bike"
meant changing to drop bars, and thus requiring something with road pull.

When I did this it was v-brakes with a travel agent or some cantis. I chose cantis for looks and have never felt as though I'm lacking in braking performance.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

I believe aluminum will form an oxide layer and therefore protect it from deeper corrosion (unlike steel). So I think it's just up to you on aesthetics.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

You only need a patch if the hole/cut is so big that you have to keep the tube from escaping when inflated. On tubeless it's those plugs/strips that come in when the puncture is too large for the sealant to work.

The only road tire gluing I'm aware of is tubulars...

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

On the tire hole question you can "boot" a big hole as a field repair with a dollar bill. The fibers are strong enough to prevent the tube pushing through.

The other benefit to tubulars is that you can ride on them even when they're flat, hence the use in racing when the team car/pit is far away.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Lex Neville posted:

Apologies for the hastily taken video, but does anyone know what could be causing this clicking sound coming from my kickr core? I took the cover off to see if anything was interfering with the belt, but there doesn't seem to be. It occurs under and without load, though it is particularly noticeable at a lower rpm. It also doesn't matter whether the cassette is on or off, the QR skewer is in or out etc

https://imgur.com/a/DrJLyH6

Seems to be tied to one revolution of the input shaft or idler. Unfortunately I'd guess that's internal to the unit. Warranty?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Contact Giant? I'm often surprised how helpful the tech/warranty/help side of big companies can be.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Honestly bikes are great because they normally tell you what maintenance is needed. Anytime you remove/reinstall anything use a touch of grease (if applicable of course). Wax your chain every 2-300 miles. Check brake pad wear/debris in the pads. Tire wear (front to back, new on front). Spoke tension/cracks at nipples.

If everything is running quiet and doing what it's supposed to do you're likely in good shape.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Clark Nova posted:

In most cases the hole through the fork crown isn't threaded. I've had several sets of fenders with very similar mounting hardware and always just put a washer on the bolt on either side of the fork

Same. Nylon locknut and washer

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

wooger posted:

And the unexplained creak under power on my bike that has stayed unchanged through a couple of weeks of my own diagnosis and 3 separate trips to 2 different bike service places is telling me what exactly?

Everything has been removed, checked, regressed and replaced.

Hey, I did say "normally"...

My sincere condolences - I chased a creak in my road bike for 6 months. Disassemble everything, clean/grease/tighten to spec, even tried new wheel hub bearings.

Ended up removing and reinstalling the BB (didn't really even clean it as I'd had it out only a few months prior to try and fix the creak) and lo and behold, gone.

Could yours be a cracked frame/unfaced BB shell?


Lol if this was the case then why do we hear the howl of a hundred disc brakes whenever the pro peloton is mic-ed going into a corner?

amenenema fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Apr 2, 2024

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Slavvy posted:

I'm not convinced that silent disc brakes are a thing that exists

Maybe if someone made a floating disc or something?

FWIW two data points - buddy and wife, one on 105 and one on GRX. Neither brakeset has ever made a sound.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help

Maybe https://www.sheldonbrown.com/ too, but I can't tell if you would love that content or hate it.

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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

wooger posted:

While I do delicately oil my chain link by link with silca synergetic oil, there no need for this; it’s oil, it will get into everywhere it needs to. Just leave it overnight then wipe off.

There is no surface tension, it will spread over everything.

Yeah, but less waste I imagine if done roller by roller.

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