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Spoke overlap/contact points?
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# ¿ Feb 16, 2021 03:41 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 07:02 |
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CopperHound posted:Thomson seatposts like cracking up there and they will tell you to pound sand because you didn't use a torque wrench. (Nobody uses a torque wrench for their saddle clamp) Why are Thomson posts so highly regarded? Their hardware is soft as pudding, they seem to popularize zero offset posts that help virtually no one with fit, and their setbacks are so goddamn ugly. Plus, their collars suck too. No consistency on sizing at all. Are branded seatpost shipping bags what people think is worth the price of admission?!?
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2021 02:40 |
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kgibson posted:Update about this mystery noise: seems to have been loose rear wheel spoke or spokes. I retensioned them all, added a dab of lube to points of intersection, and had a silent ride today. Hopefully that'll be that! Where's my certificate of appreciation? ;D As for seatposts, when I was trying to find a post for my Rockhopper -> gravel build basically everything I read said that except for some very edge cases setback posts don't make sense. TT's and weird fit situations were the common exceptions. Got any examples of more "general use"? I'm genuinely curious! Edit - stuff like this https://analogcycles.com/zero-offset-seatposts-make-zero-sense-mostly/
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2021 20:20 |
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kgibson posted:If you're ever in socal I'll buy you a beer 😁 Bless u
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# ¿ Feb 19, 2021 02:37 |
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jammyozzy posted:I feel this post, I'm pretty tall with long legs so by the time I've got the saddle high enough of a lot of frames I'm now stretching for the bars. The only way I've found to fix it is a straight post with the saddle scooted forward, but I was considering a forward post on one of my bikes. Isn't this like the classic "don't adjust reach with saddle setback" thing? I.e. change stem??
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2021 16:57 |
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Lol what problem is this geo trying to fix, low bridge clearance?!?
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2021 18:16 |
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:6/7/8 chains are cross compatible. Just make sure you get a chain that is long enough for how many links your current chain is. You’d need to cut the chain down to be the same length as your current chain, presuming it’s the right size. Yes and not sure how much you already know but you'll need a chain tool to shorten the new chain to match your old one, and maybe a set of quick-link pliers to connect the new chain up when the length is set. You might be able to get away with snapping the quick link in w/o the pliers (set it, and then stand on a pedal while stationary to lock it) but if you ever want to take it off for cleaning or maintenance then definitely get a set of pliers.
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# ¿ Dec 26, 2021 16:48 |
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How did Thomson get such a solid reputation with such poor quality? I bought a seatpost clamp from them that was at least 3mm wider in diameter than advertised. A $5 no name one was within 0.1mm of spec.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2022 15:18 |
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Lex Neville posted:A ride fixed the noise... I was gonna say this. Went from Campy 10sp to Force 22 on my road bike and was like "wtf it's so loud". Quieted down nicely after a ride or three.
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2023 17:09 |
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bicievino posted:I use Phil Wood's tenacious oil for freehubs and cassette bodies. You don't want a tacky grease on the ratchet mechanism because it will only partially engage, slip, and get damaged. Could honestly get away with just using wet chain lube IMO, but yes this stuff is great
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2023 14:31 |
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Man_of_Teflon posted:the metric I always hear is 1" of flex total up and down in the center, but I think in practice just focus on avoiding any binding at the tightest spot while getting it close Half inch per Park Tool, but that's from pin to pin so yeah maybe closer to 1" from outside-top to outside-bottom of the link: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/chain-replacement-single-speed-bikes
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# ¿ May 10, 2023 15:16 |
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Aero737 posted:No coop that I'm aware of and not too attached. I picked it up for $100 and I wouldn't want to put more than 60 or 70 into it. I'd be surprised if you could even do the brake changes you want for under 100. I don't think the derailleur jockey wheel missing tooth really matters. Throw a new set of brake pads on it and see if it stops to your liking. Clean the braking surface too. Kool-stop salmon pads are well regarded I believe.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2023 03:47 |
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EvilJoven posted:Not if it was at just the right point to snag and cause the pad to basically bounce along the rotor, it could very possibly be that, and only triggered when the frame flexes a certain way. It's worth spending the few minutes and no cost to check. My Sram rear brake squealed at low speeds. Swapped pads w the front, problem solved. Cleaning rotors and pads did not. FWIW
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# ¿ Jun 27, 2023 17:04 |
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Platystemon posted:Are tubeless conversions using split tubes garbage for babies? Yes and yes. It's cheap, why risk leaks/hassle?
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2023 15:07 |
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kimbo305 posted:Did they run homemade sealant back then? Did sealant predate rim tape and tubeless valves? Maybe just the automotive fix-a-flat that's been around for a long time??
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2023 16:22 |
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No idea but that's a dope bike
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2023 01:20 |
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Withnail posted:OK my dumb rear end finally figured out how to read the compatibility matrix. I need BT-DN110 battery, EW-RS910 junction, SD50 cables. Building bikes used to be a little simpler. AXS BABY!!
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2023 21:40 |
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Platystemon posted:Stop using brake cables for your shifters. The reverse is worse, but yeah
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2023 01:56 |
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Salt Fish posted:Customer states bike does not shift. Customer observed oil dripping off shifter and rear mech. https://velo.outsideonline.com/road/road-racing/first-ride-rotor-uno-hydraulic-drivetrain/
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2023 04:05 |
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Withnail posted:I'm connecting up some new hydraulic brakes on a road bike, should I be connecting into these couplers or just run the line directly into the shifter? Wouldn't those be so you can remove bars more easily?
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2023 00:41 |
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Doesn't help in the above issue, but my recent discovery was that centering calipers is best done with light to medium pressure on the brake lever vs hard. Tighten the bolts very lightly then switch back and forth between them to snug up tightly.
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# ¿ Sep 11, 2023 17:30 |
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The important parts re:replacing like for like are: Cassette vs freewheel (that's a freewheel) The number of cogs The number of teeth on each cog (particularly the smallest and largest - part will be listed as "XX-YY" where XX is the number of teeth on the smallest and YY the largest) If you're replacing the freewheel you should get a chain checker and find out if the chain needs replacing too - a worn chain will skip on a new freewheel. Chainring(s) on the crankset too...
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2023 17:00 |
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Since the binding is asymmetrical perhaps the BB shell needs facing??
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2023 04:46 |
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kimbo305 posted:Big same. I thought "I'm trying to change the flat bar levers on my 90's cantilever equipped bike" When I did this it was v-brakes with a travel agent or some cantis. I chose cantis for looks and have never felt as though I'm lacking in braking performance.
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2023 22:34 |
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I believe aluminum will form an oxide layer and therefore protect it from deeper corrosion (unlike steel). So I think it's just up to you on aesthetics.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2023 01:34 |
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You only need a patch if the hole/cut is so big that you have to keep the tube from escaping when inflated. On tubeless it's those plugs/strips that come in when the puncture is too large for the sealant to work. The only road tire gluing I'm aware of is tubulars...
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# ¿ Dec 1, 2023 05:36 |
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On the tire hole question you can "boot" a big hole as a field repair with a dollar bill. The fibers are strong enough to prevent the tube pushing through. The other benefit to tubulars is that you can ride on them even when they're flat, hence the use in racing when the team car/pit is far away.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2023 03:31 |
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Lex Neville posted:Apologies for the hastily taken video, but does anyone know what could be causing this clicking sound coming from my kickr core? I took the cover off to see if anything was interfering with the belt, but there doesn't seem to be. It occurs under and without load, though it is particularly noticeable at a lower rpm. It also doesn't matter whether the cassette is on or off, the QR skewer is in or out etc Seems to be tied to one revolution of the input shaft or idler. Unfortunately I'd guess that's internal to the unit. Warranty?
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2024 16:31 |
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Contact Giant? I'm often surprised how helpful the tech/warranty/help side of big companies can be.
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# ¿ Mar 21, 2024 04:02 |
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Honestly bikes are great because they normally tell you what maintenance is needed. Anytime you remove/reinstall anything use a touch of grease (if applicable of course). Wax your chain every 2-300 miles. Check brake pad wear/debris in the pads. Tire wear (front to back, new on front). Spoke tension/cracks at nipples. If everything is running quiet and doing what it's supposed to do you're likely in good shape.
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# ¿ Mar 31, 2024 13:29 |
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Clark Nova posted:In most cases the hole through the fork crown isn't threaded. I've had several sets of fenders with very similar mounting hardware and always just put a washer on the bolt on either side of the fork Same. Nylon locknut and washer
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# ¿ Mar 31, 2024 18:05 |
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wooger posted:And the unexplained creak under power on my bike that has stayed unchanged through a couple of weeks of my own diagnosis and 3 separate trips to 2 different bike service places is telling me what exactly? Hey, I did say "normally"... My sincere condolences - I chased a creak in my road bike for 6 months. Disassemble everything, clean/grease/tighten to spec, even tried new wheel hub bearings. Ended up removing and reinstalling the BB (didn't really even clean it as I'd had it out only a few months prior to try and fix the creak) and lo and behold, gone. Could yours be a cracked frame/unfaced BB shell? Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Skill issue Lol if this was the case then why do we hear the howl of a hundred disc brakes whenever the pro peloton is mic-ed going into a corner? amenenema fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Apr 2, 2024 |
# ¿ Apr 2, 2024 02:01 |
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Slavvy posted:I'm not convinced that silent disc brakes are a thing that exists FWIW two data points - buddy and wife, one on 105 and one on GRX. Neither brakeset has ever made a sound.
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# ¿ Apr 2, 2024 04:18 |
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https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help Maybe https://www.sheldonbrown.com/ too, but I can't tell if you would love that content or hate it.
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2024 03:13 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 07:02 |
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wooger posted:While I do delicately oil my chain link by link with silca synergetic oil, there no need for this; it’s oil, it will get into everywhere it needs to. Just leave it overnight then wipe off. Yeah, but less waste I imagine if done roller by roller.
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2024 15:37 |