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I'm trying to convert an old MTB to 1x on the cheap and I've been given (for free) a Sunrace 11-46 cassette with a crack in the smallest ring. Is that safe to ride assuming I avoid actually shifting into it? I'd be concerned that if it actually splits the rest of the cassette will come loose, but mountain bike cassettes are expensive so I'd rather not have to buy a new one.
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Nov 25, 2022 09:24
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 15:38 |
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SimonSays posted:The smaller cogs all hold the bigger cogs in place until you get to the point where the cassette is pinned together. You probably won't die I guess but it'll be a miserable shifting experience especially if you're trying to index anything. I hadn't even thought about staying 8 speed, I've managed to find an 11 speed shifter and rear derailleur dirt cheap second hand locally, but 11-40 probably isn't enough range anyway and that seems to be the most I can get on an 8. It's a shame Sunrace don't sell just the 11t cog as that's all I'd need to use the broken cassette.
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Nov 25, 2022 15:10
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Are Pedros tyre leves still the best option for portable levers? I've broken 2 lezyne and all the cheap levers that came with my no-name toolkit (and pinch flatted two tubes) trying to get get tyres on the second hand DT Swiss MTB wheels I bought. Is there a better option than levers for keeping in my workshop? Facebook shows me lots of adverts for fancy looking bits of plastic but I've no idea if they're actually worth it.
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Feb 10, 2023 17:34
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I'm most of the way through a cheap, second hand upgrade to 1x11 on my old mountain bike but I'm having trouble with the SLX 11 speed shifter. I can't position it on the bars in a way that it doesn't catch on my bar grips when I push the levers. My grips are these (https://www.raceface.com/products/half-nelson-grip?variant=31963013414994) which claim to be low profile. A quick Google says the SLX shifters are just tight like that and to move them closer to the stem until they don't catch but if I do that I won't be able to reach them with my thumbs. Do I just need to give up and find a different shifter?
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Feb 13, 2023 10:29
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wooger posted:Is your handlebar curved or something? Your grips don’t look insanely thick or anything, surely this would’ve come up for more people? Handlebars aren't very curved. Excuse the messy everything. I know I need to move the dropper lever to the other side but it's not the limiting factor in how far in I can move the shifter.   Video that won't embed for some reason https://imgur.com/7YBMwXn Yeep fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 13, 2023 |
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Feb 13, 2023 18:56
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Dog Case posted:You've got a pretty big gap between the brake lever clamp and the grip. It looks like if you moved everything closer to the grip the shifter lever would clear that flared area at the end of the grip No, it's very much an ongoing project whenever I have 20 minutes to spare. There was a screw slightly loose on the bottom of the shifter that was causing it to move a bit when pushed. Tightening that helped a little, I could get it so that it was catching on the metal bracket but not getting stuck. I tried moving everything towards the grips but that caused the shifter to hit rubber instead and actually stick rather than hit the metal and slide.
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Feb 21, 2023 22:34
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vikingstrike posted:You need to go toward the stem or use the button the other way (away from the bars). I had scheduled a ride with a friend today so I was out of tinkering time and figured I could get by with pull to shift. I stopped at the bike shop at the foot of the trails and they diagnosed a bent shift lever so it bent back and everything is fine now. I'm glad they did because it turns out 20 years of push to shift muscle memory is hard to undo.
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Mar 1, 2023 20:43
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 Any idea if these bolts are supposed to come out? I bought an Ultegra R8010 direct mount brake hoping to upgrade the lovely Tektro on my TT bike but it turns out the frame uses a pre-standard mount. Some googling comes up with this Slowtwitch thread about doing the upgrade on a Felt B14 (https://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Installing_Ultegra_rear_brake_on_Felt_B14_P6480893) but the bolts on my Boardman frame won't turn and I'm worried I'll damage the frame trying to get them out. I didn't spend a lot on the replacement brake so it's not the end of the world if I can't use it but it'd be nice to ditch the Tektro, mostly because I currently have to take the chainring off to do any adjustments.
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Mar 7, 2023 16:23
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poo poo I thought I'd measured everything and I'd be fine with the steerer length on some eBay forks but it's about a cm short and definitely below the top bolt. I think the seller was a bit generous with his measurements as well. I'm guessing that's too short to ride safely. Are there any cheap fixes or should I go begging for a return?
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Mar 18, 2023 22:00
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meltie posted:Maybe a stem with a less-tall clamp? Yeah, I could buy something like a DMR Defy35 but that's £40-60. There are cheap Amazon short stack stems but none for 35mm bars. In other Yeep makes bad bike decisions news, the 20mm endcaps I bought for my DT Swiss 240s oversize front hub to convert it for these forks don't fit and don't look anything like the picture in the listing. The part number matches what the DT Swiss website says you need to convert an oversize from QR to 20mm but they've got a screw fitting and my hub's QR caps push in.
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Mar 18, 2023 23:38
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mikemelbrooks posted:you could do something like this. I've managed to source a stem with 10mm less stack which should fix this. Unfortunately I'm having no luck at all finding 20mm endcaps for my hub. It's a DT Swiss 240 Oversize from about 2006 and the internal measurement is definitely 20mm but it came to me second hand with push fit QR caps on. The 240 has had screw on endcaps since at least 2010 which is the earliest I can find any information online for and the set I ordered based on the DT online support tool (and returned) definitely don't fit.    Edit: LBS finally got a reply from DT. Apparently it needs a new axle as well as end caps. Still cheaper (just) than a replacement second hand 20mm wheel. Yeep fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Apr 4, 2023 |
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Apr 4, 2023 16:40
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Clark Nova posted:I've never tried the HY/RD but people who have them seem to like them. They apparently need fairly frequent pad adjustment, though this is true of every mechanical disc brake My commuter bike came with HY/RD and they were fine until the front one broke. My LBS said it was a common problem and TRP refuse to sell the small, cheap part they'd need to fix it so they replaced it with a Spyre and I honestly couldn't tell the difference. Switching the whole lot out recently for GRX hydraulics was night and day better.
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Jul 12, 2023 16:03
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I've got some old (2005ish) DT Swiss EX4.1 rims with pre-tubeless Nobby Nic tyres and from digging around old forum posts it sounds like they might work tubeless but I've not got the time or energy to try right now. It doesn't help they're drilled for schrader.
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Jul 27, 2023 11:14
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Platystemon posted:Some people like schrader valves for tubeless conversions because their larger internal diameter allows more air through to force the beads to seat properly. Any recommendations as to which tubeless schrader valves? There don't seem to be many options and they're almost all brands I either don't recognize or know to be cheap tat.
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Jul 28, 2023 15:28
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Are the Novatec SL hubs that Light Bicycle use good enough to be worth rebuilding a wheel around? I bought a second hand front wheel and the seller threw in the rear as well because it had a damaged rim. I can get an exact replacement from LB if the spokes are ok to re-use.
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Aug 21, 2023 12:30
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Invalido posted:Thanks, I value this judgement. My e-bikes used for commuting sit on the fattest marathon pluses I can fit. Heavy and not fast but it's e-bikes so whatever, and punctures on those are so rare as not to bother me. The road bike is a different story but I don't commute much on it and don't ride it in foul weather so fixing a flat by the road every so often isn't a huge deal for me. Counterpoint: heavy duty tyres like the marathon plus and gatorskin ride and corner like poo poo and you can run something like a gp5000 tubeless and get most of the puncture resistance while also being far superior in every other way. My race and commuter bikes are both tubeless, my training bike will be tubeless as soon as the tyres need replacing and the only reason my MTB isn't is because I can't source schrader rim strips for old, narrow, 26" DT Swiss rims. I'm quite happy to trade off a little bit of maintenance, which can almost always be done at my leisure, against a massive reduction in the chance I'm going to have to sit at the side of the road getting cold, losing the feeling in my fingers trying to change a tube, getting later for work or whatever else I've managed to find the time between to go out for a ride.
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Sep 25, 2023 15:50
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 15:38 |
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Is there any good resource for identifying conversion kits for old DT Swiss hubs? Their website tool only really works for newer stuff. I've got my eye on a second hand Shimano XT 12 speed groupset but my rear wheel is an old DT240s 135x10mm hub and I can't find any kits that'll do 10mm microspline. I think I saw an XD conversion and it looks like there are some HG 12 speed cassettes around if I don't mind losing the 10t.
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Apr 18, 2024 12:21
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