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Is the wheel centered correctly? You show how close it is to the frame on the non-drive side but there is a lot more clearance on the drive side. Are you loosening the quick release (I assume it’s QR) with the wheel on the ground, then tightening the QR? I agree it’s pretty tight and it likely won’t make it fit but it definitely looks off center.
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Aug 9, 2020 12:57
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I just installed a GP5k TL. It went on the wheel easily, I set the bead with a floor pump and the valve core installed, and it was airtight without any sealant. I think I’ve been blessed by the bike gods. Naturally this means I’ll probably run over a giant piece of metal.
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Aug 19, 2020 17:57
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I’m putting my CS-HG700-11 (11-34) cassette back on my gravel bike, and there is play in the cassette. I googled the cassette and it’s designed to fit on 10 speed hubs and comes with a spacer for use on 11 speed hubs. However, Shimano’s site doesn’t list the spacer size and I didn’t remember this cassette needed a spacer so there isn’t one with the cassette in the ziploc storage bag. I’m guessing that it would be 1.85mm I need since this is essentially a 10 speed cassette going on an 11 speed hub?
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Aug 20, 2020 12:02
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EvilJoven posted:Those cassettes come with the spacer so dig around a bit more in your parts bin, it's probably at the bottom under one of those useless user manuals that's basically 'This is a bike part go online for more instructions!' I found the manual online and it’s just important safety notices in 4 languages. Thank you Shimano, very cool.
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Aug 20, 2020 15:13
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Cannon_Fodder posted:New rim update: Can’t you just let out a little of the brake cable so the brakes calipers are open more?
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Aug 23, 2020 14:41
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eSporks posted:I think you mean trp spyke/spyre. How could you possibly be so wrong
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Aug 28, 2020 12:24
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e.pilot posted:I did microshift for a little while but absolutely hated the levers, now I have an IRD bar end and TRP SS levers and it’s perfect. The TRP Hylex? The drillium silvers are dreamy
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Aug 28, 2020 20:11
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eSporks posted:What is a hy/rd getting you? Other than a more complicated brake. The main advantage of hydro is the lack of housing compression followed by self centering pads. Hy/rd does nothing for the former, and spyre does just fine for the latter. Hand feel my dude.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:19
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Your current brake is post mount. The caliper you listed is post mount. That’s an expensive caliper. The HY/RDs can be had a lot cheaper if you’re wanting the hybrid mech discs E: should have refreshed
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Sep 10, 2020 18:16
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Mauser posted:Ah thanks. I'm terrible at terminology. I saw somewhere that strain from sitting too far up on the seat can lead to weakening it, but I had that thing pretty dialed in and I thought it was a pretty nice seat. I was looking to replace it with the brooks leather seat. Is that thing pretty sturdy? They weigh a ton, if that’s a factor.
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Sep 14, 2020 23:21
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Ive bought a dumb Fuji Marlboro folder for dirt cheap and I’m going to use it for dicking around, and taking with me locally. I’ve stripped everything off it because it came with department store tier garbage parts, while the frame is reasonably decent. It came with no-name canti brakes, friction FD, 5 speed Shimano RD, an insanely heavy one piece 3x crank (1757g with pedals), a 150mm 1” QR stem, and a 26.4 seat post that weighs 850g. I’ve yanked the 3x crank and BB, and I’m planning to replace it with a 1x 38T crank. The current BB is square taper, 68x127.5. I’m pretty sure it’s the original BB because it is extra nasty and devoid of any branding or markings. I have a bottom bracket question now - with the change to a 1x crank, is there a designated amount of spindle length I should look to go down, or is it just a case of buying a few different lengths and seeing which one fits best? The 127.5 spindle length is definitely already on the long side even with a 3x. http://www.foldingcyclist.com/Fuji-Marlboro-folding-bike.html
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Sep 15, 2020 19:33
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e.pilot posted:I assume that’s a BSA BB shell on that frame? I’ve done this on a couple of BSA bikes now, the cheapest/easiest way I’ve found for 1x is to get whatever 110bcd crank will fit BSA with the appropriate BB and get an appropriate chainring, SRAM and FSA make real nice narrow-wide 1x chain rings that account for the change in chain line going to 1x on a 2x crank. There are tons of options (megaexo, bb386, hollowtech, GXP, etc) more or less the only relatively common modern BB standard that won’t fit BSA is BB30. Yeah, BSA. I’ve found a square taper crank which has removable chainrings and is supposedly narrow/wide although the pictures don’t seem to show that. I was planning on using another square taper bb because I have the tools for it and I’m looking to do this on the cheap, mostly with parts I have on hand. 1x9 friction shift 26er with 2” slicks 
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Sep 15, 2020 20:45
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e.pilot posted:oh in that case just get whatever 2x 110bcd square taper crank and go nuts I’ll post pics of this monstrosity when I’m done with it. It’s no dick wood, but it does fold!
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Sep 15, 2020 20:53
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Cigarette Bike update: I’ve done a little work. I started by stripping it down to the frame. The crank was pretty rough to get off. The BB unthreaded by hand.  I’ve cleaned as I went and took off some of the scuffs. Sadly, some of the scratches are through the paint, and the decals have a couple nicks. It’a a 10 footer. So far: - Replaced what I’m sure is the original square taper BB. What used to account for grease was rock hard. - Replaced the cpi 3x crank with a 38T crank. With pedals it weighed nearly 4 pounds. I knocked off 10mm from the BB spindle length and I probably could have gone a little more for a better chainline, but it looks fine. - Threw on some Kenda 2.0 tires on some 26” MTB rims I had sitting around. The previous wheels were boat anchors, and a freewheel in the back. - New Origin8 v-brakes because I don’t want to mess with cantis. - Installed brake levers, shifter, and grips on the bars, which I mocked up for now. The 9 speed friction shifter is the only bit I’m a little concerned about as it’s pretty cheap and rather ugly. Still to do: - Install new stem when it gets here. I wasn’t able to find a 1” QR stem and I didn’t want to mess with a 1” to 1 1/8” adapter, and then get a 1 1/8” folding stem, so I’ll just take the front wheel off when I need to fold it up all the way. - Cut housing and cables to something non-ludicrous and get the brakes set up right. - Install RD hanger. This bike doesn’t have a direct mount, so I’ve found a Sunrace hanger that uses the axle and then provides a direct mount location. I’ll be mounting a Sora RD I have sitting around. - Replace seatpost and saddle. This seatpost is absurdly heavy, and is the outdated 26.4 pillar style. Nice to haves: - Install a better QR lever on the back. - Find another 1” QR stem if it exists. - Throw on an indexed shifter if this friction one sucks.  
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Sep 17, 2020 23:51
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Jesse Ventura posted:
I might have posted about looking for for one but I just grabbed this over the weekend. Someone had to smoke 440 packs and pay $110 for this thing in 1996. The components were all super low end garbage stuff but the frame is 4130 chromoly steel. You could buy this bike from a dealer as well without the Marlboro branding, and it’s apparently much rarer, and with better components, although still pretty low end. I’ve seen a couple built up online - one guy went all out and powder coated the frame and made it into an IGH build. The other build I saw was similar to what I’m going for, leaving the frame original but going 1x and replacing the junk parts.
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Sep 18, 2020 10:52
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lwoodio posted:The bike had been sitting around for a while and just tried to use it. I don't know anything about bikes. How do I know what v brakes work on the bike? Are they universal? Those brakes will work.
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Sep 19, 2020 00:26
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You must replace that cable.
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Sep 22, 2020 23:51
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Replacing it isn’t hard if you want to give it a shot. Basically you’d undo the cable bolt, roll back the rubber hood on the shifter (newer Sora) or pull the lever. If you have an exposed part of the cable (not the housing!!!) then go ahead and cut it so you aren’t trying to push that frayed bit through the housing, then push the cable backward through the housing. This is probably close to what you have since I can see Sora and it’s a 3x. https://youtu.be/kVLmpBpC0vU
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Sep 23, 2020 00:45
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If you’re waxing your chain and not using a connex link I don’t know what to tell you
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Oct 2, 2020 18:18
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Clark Nova posted:People just call all quick links "connex." Please respect the connex trademark or else, uh, nothing will happen I’ve never heard this.
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Oct 2, 2020 21:14
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Anyone know how long a connex link lasts? Is it effectively forever? I’ve seen some other forum posts that say 5,000 miles but nothing official.
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Oct 2, 2020 22:35
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My bike was making a clicking sound yesterday so I was resigned to changing one thing at a time and test riding until I fixed it. Turns out it was my cleat. No clicking on another shoe. Wish all bike maintenance was this easy.
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Oct 12, 2020 18:16
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They’re all fine. Just clean it right after so the sealant doesn’t harden.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:42
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DevCore posted:Is there a front rack that’s a similar design as the pass and stow rack? Which one of their racks?
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Dec 14, 2020 02:08
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My 2x10 Deore XT bike has “HG-X chain only” on the chainring. I’d rather use a connex chain. What’s the downside of using a non HG-X chain?
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Dec 17, 2020 17:42
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e.pilot posted:no wippermann connex no care
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Dec 17, 2020 23:57
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I guess this is a good place to ask as well as the AI thread. My new wheels mention needing minimum separation from car exhaust. My hitch rack isn’t far enough out currently. I’m thinking of adding a riser to get the bike up higher and away. Any other ideas?
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Dec 31, 2020 03:45
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VelociBacon posted:Take the wheel off or put an old wheel on if it's the type of rack where the bike rests on the tires. It's a dual exhaust, and it's a 1up hitch rack, so there isn't a way to take off one or two wheels. FogHelmut posted:Complicated heat shield on the rack, or move your exhaust. Wondering if replacing the tips with a down facing tip would work?
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Dec 31, 2020 13:39
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FogHelmut posted:I mean, I'm assuming the issue is direct application of hot gasses to the wheel. Radiant heat from the exhaust pipe itself shouldn't be an issue unless you're very close, or driving extremely aggressively for extended periods. The sticker says a minimum clearance of 45cm/18' behind, and 20cm/8" above. That is a pretty sizeable length for a rack to be away from the car.
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Dec 31, 2020 14:36
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Anyone used a connex link with the SRAM 12 speed road stuff? Work ok? Also, anyone know where to find any in stock 12 speed connex links in the US?
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Jan 2, 2021 00:14
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eSporks posted:What's your favorite tubeless tape? I’ve been told this is the go to, but I haven’t taped up any wheels yet since I’ve bought it: 5 Roll High Temp Masking Tape Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCBIX1A
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Jan 3, 2021 17:25
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I’m guessing an XDR freehub body should just pull off, right? I tried the cassette wiggle bit but I can’t get a good grip to yank it off.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:37
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SimonSays posted:
It’s very sad, every year thousands and thousands die from the underreported threat of carbon forks 😞😢
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Jan 9, 2021 02:28
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 When Amazon sends you a new cassette missing 2 cogs and a lot of the spacers but then refunds you and tells you to keep it, you make this crime against humanity. 75% SRAM, 25% Shimano, 100% operational.
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Jan 15, 2021 02:43
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EvilJoven posted:At least you'll have good shifting a quarter of the time. It’s even going on a GRX RD for maximum mix n match fun.
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Jan 15, 2021 02:57
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I believe the Alfine and Nexus pull ratios are the same. If so, you can use this. https://www.treefortbikes.com/Shimano-Alfine-SL-S503-8-Speed-Rapidfire-Shifter-for
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Jan 29, 2021 03:01
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I’d get the eBay ones. They’re very likely legit, and if they aren’t, you can file a dispute. I’ve bought a decent amount of grey market stuff and it’s all been fine.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:33
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Would a Specialized bike with SRAM hydros come with the calipers installed to the bike shop? Some of my t25 bolts look like they were installed with a 4mm Allen key because they’re chewed up, and I’m trying to figure out if this was a shop thing or a Specialized thing.
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Feb 10, 2021 19:50
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VelociBacon posted:Absolutely a shop thing. Thanks.
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Feb 10, 2021 20:03
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 20:27 |
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eSporks posted:Are they flat mount? They are flat mount. This is good to know. I had to stick a piece of helicopter tape over the caliper to work on it since any tool I had would rub on the caliper body. The bottom bolt was easy to work on, the top one not so much. The bolts I installed are the titanium version (supposedly) so perhaps they’ll hold up a bit better if the original installed bolts were the stainless steel. I ordered the cool rainbow bolts and just got the plain ones in though. loving SRAM.
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Feb 11, 2021 11:51
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