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the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

feelix posted:

First page, new bike day



Been looking at getting one of these, how is it?

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the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

spwrozek posted:

It is FS and has a kickstand, all for $100. Obviously we are all suckers paying so much more.

ride it hard once, break it immediately, then return it. the Walmart bike special.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
^^^Hookworm definitely exists, but I think it comes in a 20, 26, or 29.

evil_bunnY posted:

Gentle goones I need skatepark slicks (>2") in 27,5". Does such a thing exist? Gravelking TLC?
What are my options for 20"? Schwalbe Crazy Bob 54-406?

Anyone ride on (polished) concrete with those sizes?

The only 27.5 I've ridden in a park has been these:
https://veetireco.com/product/plus-size-speedster/#shop

SE Bikes uses these Vee tires, this is PK Ripper 27.5" tire. SE Bikes just makes them prettier. They're fast and grippy enough but honestly I have nothing else to compare them with.

My BMX friend swears by the vans x cult 20", but he's always all in on any Vans thing.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Today was my first trail ride since I got vertigo 4 weeks ago. It was very frustrating not being able to really trust my sense of balance. It was super cool being back on trails though.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Yeah, seconding Honzo. I have the Big Honzo dl, and supposedly you can switch between 27.5's and 29ers.

Itss a pretty fun ride, the geometry makes it a good climber (sometimes you pedal strike on technical/rocky uphills), and honestly, when I ride descents on it, it feels almost like an overgrown dirt jumper (shorter chainstay helps with that, imo its pretty flickable). It comes with middle of the road extras out of the box, but everything is fairly easily upgraded.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Turmoilx posted:

once i get more comfortable i wonder, would jumps destroy this rigid bike? ..i had a lot of speed coming out of the exit trail onto the parking lot and couldn't help myself to get some air i had rode bmx younger only rode at the skate park but eventually quit going, now its around 8 years later

those bigass tires should absorb some of the impact, but it honestly depends on the size and hardness you ride on the jumps, and the bike itself. my guess is if you used to ride bmx in skateparks you probably have some knowledge of how to jump where its not just destroying your bike, which I guesss mostly leaves: how well built is your bike? Fwiw, most dirt jump bikes only have front suspension, so you definitely dont need rear suspension to hit a jump without destroying your bike.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
What are your thoughts on maintaining illegal jumps? I stumbled across the big local jump line, but its a mess rn and clearly has not had maintenance in a while, and so a couple of old dj buddies of mine want to come down, fix it up, and have a jam.

the problem is it falls right into federal property, in between the part of the park that is run by BLM and has great trails, and the old military housing (the whole area used to be a military base) which is still federal property. It's literally a grey area on the park map, and it seems like the space was planned to be used as cemetery, but the cemetery design was changed and now the cemetery property lines don't reach the jump lines.

I'm very conflicted with this, I want a sweet jump line (this is the only one that isn't at least 45 minutes away by car), but at the same time, I don't want to be one of those assholes that builds and regularly rides illegal trails (I've been justifying this in my mind by saying oh I wont be building new jumps just maintaining the jumps that already exist).

Idk, just wanted to see what other people think. I'm leaning towards no.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

thatguy posted:

Generally speaking, when dealing with the feds its always 100% without question better to ask forgiveness than to ask permission. The exec branch bureaucracies are so cash strapped and personnel strapped they simply don't have the time or interest to bother, even if they wanted to.

I was figuring that this was probably the logic. I just wanted to make sure other people were on the same page.

vikingstrike posted:

I would also add to keep secret secret and don’t blast them all over Strava and similar websites.


Definitely was going to keep it secret, but honestly I think most of the local mtb club know about it and keep it secret.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Slide it this way.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

paberu posted:

Are the totally great dropper posts worth upgrading to? The TranzX dropper my Honzo came with is starting to get stuck on the way up - either have to lower and raise it a few times, or pull up on the saddle while holding lever down.

The PNW Loam looks great, but it's nearly half the cost of a new fork and that seems like a bigger improvement to the bike.

Transx lose air like nothing else, just pump it up.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Partial Octopus posted:

Looking to pick up an Ibis Ripmo this season. Is XT worth it over GX Eagle?

yes

Wistful of Dollars posted:

e: if I had the choice I'd definitely go SLX with an XT shifter if it meant better wheels vs XT.

Also this.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Bottom Liner posted:

27.5+ is fun if you ride sandy stuff but still want to feel nimble.

This. I regularly ride in a super sandy area and they are great.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
I know that components are hard as hell to find rn, but doing a build around this frame:



Super pumped, I love hard tails and this one looks both fun and beautiful as hell.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

commencal absolut
canyon stitched 360
Marin Alcatraz

All good option, all between 1 and 2k.

DMR Sect is almost 1k on the dot and is fantastic. Its what I ride.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Yeti SB130 is a pleasure to ride my friend. It makes climbing a pleasure.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Steak posted:

In currently suffering from a delusion. There is an XC race at one of the trails I frequent and I am considering signing up for the class 3/citizen/beer class race. It's only 12 mi but I went out this past weekend to test my might and I was still 10 minutes slower than the slowest time in that class from last year's race.

I feel like I'm in the best shape of my life, or at least the past 10 years, but I am still 255 lbs (down from 310, though). I should probably wait until next year, right? Save myself the entry fee, right? It'd be foolish to enter this year, right?

First of all, just being at the point of BSOML is great, good on you for getting to that point. I think it really comes down to you, and how you want to approach the race. If you are super competitive and think getting a low time would throw you off or discourage you, then dont enter. If you can handle losing, then I'd give it a try!

I went into a local race two years ago with the idea that I would lose, had a blast, and met some people that I now regularly ride with. I've gotten faster riding with them since then, and having people to chase definitely helped with that. Making your own progress can be nice, but for me at least, it can be hard to know in the moment whether or not I am on pace for a better time, and hjow well I can keep up is a pretty immediate way of telling whether I'm going faster than normal or not.

As a teaacher as well, having those lower end scores as part of that record of your abilities is actually pretty nice and useful! Its easier to have a baseline to develop and work, especially if you already feel like you are going all out. Plus it can help you establish realistic and achievable goals!

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Steak posted:

Buddy, I was born to lose. But really, I'm 100% with you on not knowing how I'm doing on my ride. 90% of my rides are alone so the only measure of progress are my Strava times after the fact. No idea in the moment, really. No idea where I could be pushing myself more either. I think this could be a fun litmus test on where I'm at as a rider.

Honestly, just talking about it made me go sign up for a local race with my moms husband. I'm about to get my rear end kicked by a 65 yo who is in better shape than I ever have been.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
A big take away from this is is that alot of you have lovely local bike shops.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Oh I wasn't trying to imply this wasn't his doing, just commenting on what others have said about their local shops. I love my local shop, there dudes there are all pretty great and they've rocked every time I've brought my bike in. I couldn't imagine having a local bike shop I couldn't rely on.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

n8r posted:

My reply made no sense.
Meant a to say that you can run shimano shifter/derailleur on a sram cassette and vice versa.

Actually makes me think, could you use a shimano hg+ cassette and chain and an axs derailleur? You would also need the front chainring to be hg+, right? I wouldn't mind that if you could still get the hg+ smoothness and the wireless actuation/cockpit

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Was at the sea otter classic today and was sorely disappointed by the lack of free clif bars.

In other news, slalom is really entertaining to watch.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
drat, that's nice

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Has anyone got any tips on buying a bike online? Specifically thinking about buying a fully kitted bike vs buying a frame/suspension and building up from there.

The parts on the fully kitted bike are all pretty great, and are about what I would buy to put on it. That way I dont have to wait forever for things like say, a Deore XT drivetrain and brakes.

On the other hand, it would be cooler if I built it up on my own.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

vikingstrike posted:

Make sure it fits

Nocheez posted:

Being able to ride the bike around for a little bit at the very least goes a long way, imo. I loved a rental bike so much that I (the first rider on it) shipped it home across the country. I could have saved $150 by just buying it near my home, but I already felt great on this bike so I bought it.

It's a bike I have ridden before and really liked, so I want my own

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

buying a complete is always going to be cheaper and easier than building something up custom, and unless you are really into building your own bike and the money and time and frustration of sourcing all the components these days is worth it I'd highly highly recommend buying a complete.


Samopsa posted:

building from parts is always way more expensive and it'll take loving ages with the current shortages. Get a fully kitted bike, always, imo. Building from scratch only if you want something really unique or just really enjoy the process.

TY for the advice. That was kinda what I was thinking.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Does anyone have any advice for DVO Diamond vs MRP Ribbon? in a fork? From what I can tell they seem to be very very similar in terms of quality and ride feel. Just want to know if anyone has ridden on either before.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

funkymonks posted:

I did not like my ribbon at all. I found it to be fine on big hits but borderline rigid on fast small bumps like roots. It lacks high speed compression adjustment which is not great in a thousand dollar fork. As someone who only rides hand built single track full of rocks and roots it was a bad fork for me. I replaced it with a Mezzer which has been absolutely amazing.

I have a DVO Sapphire on my hard tail which I also like a bunch.

Alright, the ribbon doesn't sound like it would be a good choice for where I ride then. Ty for the advice!

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

e.pilot posted:

New MF’in bike day, I can legally post in the MTB thread again :toot:


beautiful. I thought they stopped making aluminum frames?

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Oh I was just hoping they made a new aluminum frame. I love the look of their al frames.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
There are not enough good looking metal full suspension bikes.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

compressioncut posted:





First ride on this thing and it was disappointing only because of the weather. This was the only clear section because it's south facing and slightly exposed. The rest was fatbike worthy and didn't work on 2.5s. I love the seat tube angle, and love love the oval chainring. I couldn't do any hauling rear end or steep stuff due to the ice and snow, but it was a really great ride on the little bit of dirt and chunk there was. I think it's going to need two weeks to get less lovely barring a drastic warmup (currently just above freezing).

Loved the look of the El Roy (I'm a sucker for steel). I hope that its super fun in nicer weather, please keep the thread (me) updated.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Taima posted:

Unfortunately my shop can't source the Zees right now but that's a great choice, thanks for helping. We are going with SLX 4 pots since that's, well, no one can seem to get exactly what I ask for, frankly... state of the market I guess

SLX 4 pots are decent ya?

yup!

edit: to expand, the SLX is definitely not comparable with the Zee. Zee has better modulation and more stopping power. They are better. SLX are definitely decent though.

the unabonger fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Feb 4, 2022

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Any advice for someone about to do a cross country race despite never really riding cross country style/has a hardcore hardtail?

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

e.pilot posted:

go fast and/or win

I can do that

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

spwrozek posted:

Osprey syncro 12 is what I use. 2.5L, helmet carry if you have a long fire road and don't want to wear it. Just enough room for tools, wind breaker, and snacks. https://www.osprey.com/us/en/product/syncro-12-SYNCRO12_625.html

They make a syncro 5L if you want even less room. still a 2.5L though.

I also have this one and love it. Its a great size.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
Hand up has good Hawaiian short sleeve jerseys if you don't mind a button up. Their regular short sleeve jerseys are also good.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

In whistler people say they're often too stiff.

People often "underestimate" their weight, and as such shops tend to adjust on the stiff side.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009
drat thats nice. I assume thats the steel?


Steel hardtails are beautiful.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

PaintVagrant posted:

Speaking of pads, bike closet has some POC air knee and elbow super cheap. I bought my helmet from them, they have some serious closeout deals sometimes.

https://bikecloset.com/shop/?s=poc&post_type=product

fwiw my friend has the VPD air knee pads and says they are constantly slipping down his legs. According to him, they dont have a bottom strap so unless your leg is exactly the right size they can move around a bit.

the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Scrapez posted:

New to mountain biking. Looking for a 27.5" hardtail. I've rented both a 27.5 and 29 and the 27.5 just felt more comfortable. Probably because I'm used to a 26" BMX. The 29 just felt huge and hard to flick around.

I have my eye on a Marin San Quentin 2. What's the consensus on it? I like the 65 degree head tube angle as I think I'll be doing a fair bit of downhill runs. I live next to Coler in Bentonville so will be riding there a lot. Any other suggestions are welcome.

It's a good one. There's definitely more aggressive geo hardtails, but since it's gonna be your all-rounder while you get more and more into mtb it's a good choice. The Torrent and Scout are both good options. There's some other good steel options like the honzo esd if you like steel.

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the unabonger
Jun 21, 2009

Levitate posted:

I think I just had a cheap bleed kit I got from amazon that has stuff like little plastic blocks to help hold the hose while you try to work the barb in.

Shimano usually includes those blocks in their brake kits. I've asked my LBS for some before and they had extras.

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