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If you think you're getting ripped off by big bike companies feel free to buy an ICAN or TanTan and let us know how that goes.
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Aug 3, 2020 20:22
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 14:37 |
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n8r posted:Single pivot? Sup with that? The kinematics are worked out well enough these days that you can achieve whatever antisquat you want with more or less any suspension design. So tons of new stuff is single pivot (e.g. new Meta).
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Aug 13, 2020 02:39
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Don't want to restart the dumb argument about frame costs from the beginning of the thread, but saw this in a NYT article:
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Aug 22, 2020 18:43
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In my experience you will have a hard time bending it back accurately enough without a hanger alignment tool (assuming it is the hanger).
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Aug 26, 2020 02:26
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 I'm really liking the Michelin Wild Enduro F/R pair.
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Oct 4, 2020 02:21
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The only thing that's second tier to NX is SX.
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Oct 7, 2020 02:34
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 Well I finally busted my venerable Zees. Going to try Hayes Dominion A4s.
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Oct 10, 2020 05:21
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I would ride the widest fatbike tyre you possibly can for snow. Biggest problem I have fatbiking is not enough float, and that's with 26x5".
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Dec 25, 2020 04:58
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mexecan posted:... Not sure about everyone else, but even assuming everything goes well I don't think I'm meant to be vaccinated until September. Always wanted to ride Iron Mountain though. pinarello dogman fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 03:48
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If you haven't done an air can service yet, do that before buying a whole new shock.
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Feb 15, 2021 17:16
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Aphex- posted:It's been well maintained and serviced. The performance of it hasn't degraded over time - it's always been like this, it's just that it's not that good of a shock. Especially now that my style of riding has gotten more aggressive and downhill focused. Fair enough. I went air->coil->air over my last couple of bikes, and I think your description of the pluses and minuses is accurate. If you run a decent air shock and don't use any spacers it will feel pretty similar though. I think the biggest benefit is not feeling compelled to gently caress with the air pressure.
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Feb 17, 2021 05:42
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Wistful of Dollars posted:Put up a slew of hooks to organize the garage today. Nice Banshee! I just built up a Spitfire V3.
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Mar 14, 2021 17:15
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https://vimeo.com/524322982
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Mar 26, 2021 17:40
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Voodoofly posted:Anyone here have experience with trials around Whistler? I was just told I’m getting a two days of riding and an air bnb to stay at for a night without kid duty as a Father’s Day gift. Whistler valley trails are pretty spread out, so you're not going to see a ton of people, even on the weekend. Anything rated green on Trailforks you should be good to ride in the saddle, though a lot of it is basically bike paths/gravel trail. Blue trails have a huge variability in difficulty, most of them I think you would have a tough time on, but try the Lost Lake area. That's generally the most beginner friendly singletrack. Not sure about gravel ride options. Edit: Rainbow-Sproatt flank is mostly a road or wide singletrack as far as I know. Might have some tough bits. Has some decent views though if you want to get up the mountains a bit but not hit anything super challenging. Can't guarantee anything as I haven't ridden the whole thing. pinarello dogman fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 02:33
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Voodoofly posted:Thanks for this by the way. I was doing loops around lost lake for hours yesterday before just cruising along some of the valley trails for the scenery. Good to hear you had fun. The trail ratings for valley trail in Whistler are kind of a mess because green trails have to have be a certain width, minimum corner radius, no bumps over 10 cm, etc. So trails you would expect to be green are usually blue, and green trails are usually footpaths. On the other hand some of the blue trails are pretty tech, though at Lost Lake there are usually B-lines.
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Jun 20, 2021 17:13
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H13 posted:... This 100% depends on your local area. Some stuff you can ride in the pouring rain, some stuff takes ages to dry out.
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Jun 30, 2021 02:10
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I don't think you can really have too much brake on a trail bike. Running Hayes Dominion A4s on mine.WHERE MY HAT IS AT posted:...I was able to pull the rear all the way to the bars without it locking up... I don't think Guides are amazing but this really sounds like you didn't get it bled properly.
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Jul 26, 2021 00:34
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Shifting will be worse with the clutch on. The benefit is not losing your chain and less chainslap.
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Aug 13, 2021 15:18
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kimbo305 posted:... Only difference I notice is the upshift resistance, but I would argue that more resistance is worse. I basically adjust my clutch to have as much resistance as I can tolerate.
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Aug 13, 2021 15:30
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Dren posted:I'm unclear on why you think the chain length is wrong. If you're having rough shifting with the clutch off because the chain is effectively longer maybe something else is wrong besides chain length. The bike would usually arrive from the manufacturer with the chain already installed. Unless it is a custom build by the shop they probably didn't touch the chain. Though plenty of stuff comes from the factory already messed up, so who knows.
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Aug 13, 2021 17:07
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bicievino posted:Dang, I'm glad people weren't as lovely to me when I first got in to biking as some of y'all are being to this poster. Basically this, but also bike shop people don't get paid a lot for the level of expertise they require. You're getting your bike built and worked on by someone who would earn a similar wage at McDonald's. That doesn't mean you should put up with lovely work, but maybe temper your expectation of premium customer service.
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Aug 13, 2021 20:48
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I have an Outbound Hangover and like it a lot. The self contained aspect is big for me, as strapping batteries to your helmet or frame is a pain. The $20 lights are fine for the price, but I was always worried about burning my house down. You get what you pay for with the pricier lights. Don't trust the lumen claims on the cheap lights.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:18
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Annual reminder to everyone that if you haven't done your 50 hour fork/shock service yet this year that is why your bike feels like garbage.
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Oct 4, 2021 02:54
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spwrozek posted:I believe Fox recommends 125 hours or once a year currently. nothing wrong with doing it more often though. The 125 h is the full upper and lower service and they don't say anything about a lower service in between. Which is pretty funny because they used to be 30h/100h and I'm pretty sure they haven't changed anything that would justify skipping the lowers.
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Oct 7, 2021 03:29
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:I feel like exo+ should be the lightest sidewall people use unless it's a dedicated xc race tire, cut sidewalls and short life is the common story for exo tires. This really depends a lot on where you ride. If you have no sharp rocks to slash sidewalls or other common causes of punctures you are just choosing based on sidewall support, which means you could go with an insert and thin casing.
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Nov 20, 2021 21:24
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Blackhawk posted:... I don't think that's a NZ thing. Most of the European stores won't ship Shimano/SRAM outside Europe because of agreements with the brand, and I assume the North American stores won't ship outside NA.
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Nov 28, 2021 04:17
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Taima posted:I've done nothing, I have no idea what to do... I did call a shop, but they honestly weren't super helpful. The guy was super cool but he was basically like "its really hard to find parts right now and the odds that we can find the parts you need specifically are really low" and sounded like he didn't really want to deal with it. Is this a common thing that shops do right now? I do understand that parts are hard to come by due to the pandemic supply chains. Some shops suck, but yes it is really hard for shops to get parts right now. My local shop had to buy chains online so they could have some to install on peoples bikes as the distributors couldn't get any. Taima posted:I'm also slightly worried that the shops will be far more expensive than online sources but maybe that's untrue? Depends on the part. Often more expensive, sometimes a lot, but a fair bit of stuff you pay basically MSRP online anyway. Taima posted:I'm totally ok just getting some new poo poo (basically whatever you guys want to recommend I would take it seriously). The disc brakes, for example, is one Elixir and one XT brake because one of my XT's was completely shot and a shop literally just gave me a used Elixir for free, lol. Elixirs are trash. The XTs are fine, but the master cylinders wear out and can't be rebuilt. You can get Magura MT5s insanely cheap from Germany, otherwise low end Shimano stuff is a good deal (Deore, etc). Taima posted:e: the cassettes in particular feel to me like they're in really bad shape, lots of chipping. Cassettes can be weird shaped due to the shift profiles. Unless your chain is very stretched (shop should be able to measure it for you, or you can do it with calipers), or slips on the cassette with a new chain it should be fine. meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Don't buy from Amazon. Agree Amazon sucks. Even apart from being a lovely company the amount of fake stuff on there is insane and the prices are bad. You can go 1x on Shimano 10 speed just by replacing the chainring with a narrow-wide, your range is limited to about 11-42 though.
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Jan 22, 2022 00:45
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I can't comment on the skateboarding part, but you need to buy kneepads based on how they fit you, not on whatever brand gets the highest ratings. Not every model/brand it going to actually fit you in a way that works, though may be less of an issue if you aren't pedaling and don't have to worry about them slipping down your leg. You're a lot less likely to hit your elbows on a bike than your knees and elbow pads tend to be even worse for fit in my experience. I haven't noticed the hard padding being any better than the D3O-type stuff when falling on rocks. Buy something you are likely to wear over something more protective that you won't. POC tends to be overpriced in my opinion.
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Jan 28, 2022 21:01
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OneUp composites
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Jan 29, 2022 17:36
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Braincloud posted:
Assuming it is just the rim that is toast you can swap a new one on there relatively cheaply. It is generally recommended that you replace the spokes and nipples, but you can generally get away with it if you are OK with the risk of breaking spokes later (shops will not be OK with this for obvious reasons). The rim must be the same model or the exact same ERD or you will need new spokes anyway. Doing it yourself is a fairly big job and has a high risk of messing it up. I would highly recommend carbon rims, high PoE hubs, and 32 spokes if you want to upgrade. That is big money though. Building them up yourself is generally a bit cheaper.
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Jan 30, 2022 17:47
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Nohearum posted:Found a really nice DT swiss rear wheel for a bargain price but it's 28 spoke. Am I going to die riding that on technical terrain? I'm a fairly light rider and I've never destroyed a wheel but I'm pretty sure everything I've ever ridden has at least 32 spokes. Trying to replace a blown Stans hub. As long as the rim is strong enough you will be fine. I've ridden 28 spoke wheels in Whistler Bike Park with no issues. That said 32 makes more sense to me.
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Mar 5, 2022 22:13
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neogeo0823 posted:...I found this youtube vid of a guy who modded his digilegs and added the shock absorbers you find on certain types of bikes, and that seemed to solve all his pain issues. The guy in the video is using super low end shocks that you would tend to see on a Walmart bike. Those are going to have a way shorter eye-to-eye (read: length) than a shock you would see on an actual mountain bike, which may make packaging it harder if you go for something better. Cheap air shocks like Rockshox Monarchs and X-Fusion O2s can probably be found for ~$200 if you look around, actual MSRP will be higher. Shortest you can get is maybe 165x38 (length eye-to-eye and stroke)? An air shock is going to be adjustable to basically whatever rate you want, though the damping is going to be a fixed tune (or adjustable in a relatively narrow range suitable for bike applications if you go higher end).
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Jul 1, 2022 01:39
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yoohoo posted:I found a Lyrik 150 for the same price as a Bomber so just pulled the trigger on that. Can’t wait for this thing to arrive. I’ve never replaced a fork before but it seems relatively straight forward (based on the single YouTube video I watched). Make sure you don't cut the steerer too short. Like seriously. Other than that it's super easy if you have a split crown race. If you don't then it can be a pain without the right tools.
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Jul 4, 2022 01:09
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e.pilot posted:Comedy option it’s a non boost wheel in a boost frame. I was thinking 'axle too long and bottoming out on the end of the threads'. Should be obvious though. Maxles have the length written on them usually.
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Jul 17, 2022 19:02
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VelociBacon posted:... Shouldn't affect preload as there is a solid stack of spacers/axle steps between all the inner races of the bearings that you are compressing, and often a tiny shim between the freehub and hub body bearings. If your wheel has more drag after you tighten it check if the shim has exploded (happened to me on a few hubs)
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Jul 19, 2022 04:08
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Jehde posted:Been a while since I was last here...  Keep it rubber side down, man. Hope it's not too hot down there.
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Jul 31, 2022 02:47
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neato burrito posted:Got a Giant Talon 3 27.5, I don't want flat tires ever again. What are my best options? Wire bead 2-ply DH casing tyres and DH tubes. Plus you'll never want to ride it with those on, which helps.
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Aug 12, 2022 04:26
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Chain growth on a high pivot is way too much for the derailleur even if you didn't care about kickback. Idler also lets you tune the antisquat, which would otherwise be super dependent on the main pivot position. Linkage is a fun tool to play around with if you are interested in this stuff.
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Sep 6, 2022 20:41
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Levitate posted:Believe them or not but yeah lower end Shimano brakes don’t use ceramic but that also means they say you can only use resin pads with those since they don’t put back as much heat into the caliper as metal The 'resin only' is for the discs. You can run metallic pads on any Shimano calipers.
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Sep 11, 2022 18:00
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 14:37 |
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When you cook your brakes on an extended downhill section the lever firms up as you keep it held (and you lose power / pads sound like they're dying). I assume this is because the system is only open to the reservoir when you release the lever. I guess this effect would be worse with a more conductive piston. If that is the reason it may be less of a problem for motos where you have more brake caliper/disc thermal mass to rider/bike weight (and less extended brake holding on downhills)? Edit: Here is the SRAM take on it. 
pinarello dogman fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Sep 11, 2022 |
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Sep 11, 2022 20:53
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