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Does anyone here have any experience with Lord of the Print off of MMF? I am printing out holiday gifts and a friend really likes LotR so I have this Nazghoul on a Dragon model STL I picked up from them. I am not an expert printer but I was looking at their "pre-supported" option and it looked like it would assuradely fail. There was no raft or bottom part of the supports, no wide base. Just the vertical portions. Looked like a guaranteed failure. Or am I supposed to add the base only? I am printing out part of it right now with my own supports to see how things go. Also, does anyone have any experience with DakkaDakkaStore? To this point I have only been printing large stuff, like 75mm figures from loot, but I am trying to print off a plate of their jumpack sisters. My first issue is that they seem small, and the bases they came with are 28.5mm, which is odd because the actual models go on 32mm I think, and the STL was released 4 months ago, so the base size is not a hold over from a previous edition. Second, I rarely print small stuff so I dont have a lot of experience, but is there a specific way I should be making the rafts? Like one big raft for a bunch of arms/heads, or does each component get it's own raft? My print also failed in an odd way, the raft showed up, but no supports past the raft. It was a little odd. Does anyone have any experience with that? I have had really good luck printing stuff in bigger scale, so I think I have some of the basics of printing covered.
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Oct 24, 2022 22:55
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Doctor Zero posted:I recently signed them on as a vendor and haven’t printed anything yet. However, the tags on their miniatures are labeled “28mm”. Really, that doesn’t tell you much because 28mm D&D minis are smaller than 28mm GW minis. technically 40k is 28mm scale, but if you have any experience with them, you know that their mini sizes are inconsistent at best (old rhinos anyone?) Ok, I think my reference point might be really, really skewed because lately all I have been painting are Primaris marines in 40k and Orcs/Chaos Warriors in AoS. I took the dakkadakka jump sister and compared her to an old chatacan and she is slightly taller but on par with the chatacan. I think the Primaris scale is messing with my mind. That being said I am flummoxed that I can print big pieces easier than smaller pieces.
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Oct 25, 2022 00:12
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On a resin printer will over-exposure have a negative impact on supports? I originally thought it would not, as the more exposure the stronger the supports would become, but someone in a different group I cannot remember said that over-exposure can cause the supports to sometimes stick to the FEP and fail. Is that accurate? Is that what I am seeing if I see a group of closely located supports with a flat horizontal break?
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Oct 25, 2022 13:36
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moths posted:I had something like this happen once - It turned out that my slicer had randomly made the bottom 2mm invisible. Do you think something like that is going on? That is interesting. I just got home from the night shift and I had a 12 hour print of a display piece base print just great. So now I am going to go and try to print a plate of small things and see what happens if I keep the settings the exact same. I did just upgrade chitubox. I will give a report after I wake up if my carnival food models come out good.
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Oct 25, 2022 16:01
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So my carnival plate came out mixed. The settings were just perfect for detail, so I am happy about that. But now there were failures on one quadrant of the plate. The rafts never appeared. Removing the rafts from the plate was more difficult the further away I went from the failed corner, and became easier as I approached the failed corner. I assume this means my plate got out of level, so I went ahead and releveld it. I must be doing something when removing the models to slightly jar the plate. Which I could see happening because I had too high of a first layer exposure for a bit and the pieces were really tough to remove. Perhaps I should tighten the plate screws even more than I do, but I already get them pretty darn tight. I will get my carnival games and food printed eventually and show you all and you will enjoy it 
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Oct 26, 2022 00:36
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Paradoxish posted:Something is up if you're knocking your plate out of level while taking prints off. I really go nuts sometimes and I've never experienced that, so you definitely might want to make sure it's really tightened down. That is a great idea. Maybe I am just not tightening it enough when I am leveling it. I may have knocked it pretty drat hard to get some minis off when I had a few prints with too high of a burn in layer time. I am really, really enjoying 3d printing on a resin printer and I am really, really happy with what I am printing. The only downside is that I seemed to master just about 75mm figures from Loot studios and can get those perfect almost every time, but other things I have less success rate with, but I am still having fun. I purchased the printer to run off a bunch of warhams and 40k armies and then fell in love with the bigger stuff. Now, oddly enough, the hardest thing for me to print well is the small little warhams stuff. I am surprised at how cheap it is to print that stuff though!
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Oct 26, 2022 04:27
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Trip Report: I just took my print off the machine. I wanted to verify it works with a small project so I did some characters first. The plan is to do a pair of dragon wings that will use the entire height of my Saturn 2. So I want a known good print prior to starting a 20 hour print. So imagine my horror when I look at my plate and see yet again a quadrant is missing. But, oddly, there is no debris on the FEP. I printed 3 characters and a cauldron, and 3 bases. I see 3 bases, and 2 characters and a cauldron, so where did the 3rd character go? I find this strange so I take the plate down and look, and find this: Turns out I was in such a rush that I forgot to move the character or accidently sent him to home and ended up with him boiling himself alive.
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Oct 26, 2022 16:36
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Lt. Barclay's worst fear realized.
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Oct 26, 2022 23:53
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Forgot to post the carnival food I printed: 
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Oct 27, 2022 00:50
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w00tmonger posted:Who makes these again? Absolutely love them! World Forge Miniatures makes them, link below. It is a little pricey it seems, I got the regular carnival set on a sale. I think the price will be pretty good around Black Friday. They have an evil carnival as well. They also have a tavern set. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-the-mirthlight-carnival-1-collection-205703
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Oct 27, 2022 03:15
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Chainclaw posted:I was super excited by laser cut terrain, I cut and assembled so much stuff like this: Did you try a layer of varnish or poly on the wood and then priming it? Or a wood sealer? Using a wood sealer and then applying acrylic paint is what a lot of us in the model ship world do.
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Nov 4, 2022 18:19
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Will the Snapmaker Artisan be a safe laser system, for those that are familiar with it? https://us.snapmaker.com/products/s...HQaApBREALw_wcB
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Nov 5, 2022 23:41
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queeb posted:
Looks great! What program are you using?
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Nov 7, 2022 01:52
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I want to laser cut acrylic game tokens. Or cut them out with a cnc machine. What is the standard method for acrylic game tokens, laser or cnc? I am considering a Snapmaker Artisan, which has a 10w laser. Would that work?
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Nov 13, 2022 03:16
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Lumpy posted:My Anycubic text cube is printing! But I'm pretty sure I forgot to take some sort of protective film off the bottom of the vat. If it is on the bottom of the vat, as in between the vat itself and the screen, it would be easy enough to remove without making a mess. If the film is between the fep and and the resin it will be a bit of a mess, but you should remove the film before you try to print anything else. So, those that have a glowforge, know about lasers, etc.... here is my situation, as it relates to my previous question. I am thinking about buying either a glowforge or the upcoming Snapmaker Artisan. What I want to create is acrylic tokens for games, acrylic knick knacks for gifts, I want to try my hand at making wooden ship model with thin wood. I am not too concerned about doing any work on metal. The Snapmaker is less expensive and has a dual extruder 3D printer which would be a nice upgrade for me and allow me to easily print dissolvable supports which would be neat. I mainly print fdm terrain for warhammer and whatnot. I am also thinking that my son, who is 15, has mentioned he wants to work to make some extra money, but I am concerned about the time commitment from work negatively impacting his grades, so I was thinking that in-between me printing out doofus stuff he could operate an Etsy store. The Artisan seems to be significantly less expensive and it has 3d printing as well. Those that know these products, is there anything I am not thinking about that I should be? Is there any red flags on either of these devices for my intended use? If the 10W diode laser can not do engraving on most acrylic, would the CNC function work? Here is a link to what I want to make: https://www.etsy.com/listing/115312...e_recs_18&sts=1 Could I make that with the CNC function?
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Nov 14, 2022 04:17
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bird food bathtub posted:Prints separating from their supports and leaving teleporter accidents on the FEP are my largest source of failures by far. Any other tips than adding more supports at the point where an arm or whatever separated? That's all I'm doing now. Unless I want to go absolutely ape poo poo and encase the model in a support cocoon there's usually one or two trial runs on each new model I put together from whatever source I happen to be using. Getting better at spotting potential points and preemptively supporting them while still in Lychee, just curious if there's some obvious "well duh bird food click Option X and buy this widget." thing. Have you used cones of calibration? I advise running that and adjusting your settings based on that since that is based around supports. I had a very big difference between my resin validation ideal exposure compared to the cones. Now printing to the cones setting and having a lot of success.
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Nov 20, 2022 05:06
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Lumpy posted:When the parts that are supposed to fail fail, do they fall off and you have to fish bits out of the vat? Seems cool though. I didn't fish anything out, they have a little roof. Not sure exactly how that works now that I think about it, but no cleanup seemed needed.
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Nov 21, 2022 04:16
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queeb posted:
I just ordered a glowforge myself. Are the bespoke materials just nice to haves or are they pretty much required. Got a 500 dollar gift certificate with the glowforge so will get to try out a bunch of stuff. If I want to make little wooden decorations and door rounds I imagine that has to be easiest and most common use case?
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Nov 23, 2022 06:22
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Sockser posted:In March, I bought an Elegoo Saturn. A million calibration tests and I could not get a print to really come out. Did Elegoo support have any idea or leads they were having you try to track down? What is the nature of your failures? I cannot give more precise advice without knowing what some of the issues are, but if you got the rook to print then the machine is capable of something, and it sounds like you had it do some prints. If you are leaving the printer for long periods of time I might make sure that the the Z axis is lubricated, the fep is clean, and re-level the bed. How transparent is the Neon Green? It might just take a while to print them. Run the cones until it works and then do a print at that setting and see what happens. What is your lift speed at? I would not think that would impact cones, but running the machine as fast as it goes can sometimes cause failures.
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Nov 27, 2022 06:34
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Sockser posted:Alright, reset Z, running another test, see how that goes Is your machine a Saturn or Saturn 2? Have you ever tried lowering the lift speed? Speed at 180 is really high and likely to pluck supports right off. A slower speed allows them to flex a little bit more greatly reducing the instantaneous force they feel. Have you ever tried printing anything at like 60?
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Nov 28, 2022 18:35
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My print area is temperature controlled and warm, with an enclosure also. What speed do most people print at?
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Nov 28, 2022 19:06
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Sockser posted:Son of a bitch How slow did you go down with the speed? For troubleshooting purposes, can you print a more simple model with that particular resin, and would it be possible to see some screengrabs of how you have it sliced. Those ultrathin lines that are parallel to the build plate can be caused by a dirty Z axis screw/rail, or by suction forces. Here is what 3DP says about it: "8. Layer separation from FEP or PDMS. During the printing most of the bottom-up style printers have to withstand layer separation. Some 3D printers actually have somewhat firm bottom of resin tray which is coated with either PDMS or FEP film. Due to quite firm bottom of resin tray, they usually exploit tilting action when separating layers from the bottom of the resin tray. This approach tends to create higher loads for one side of the model (side actually depends on tilting design and approach). Because of this the side of the model with higher loads will tend to shift and deform more than the opposite one and, therefore, might cause asymmetrical visible surface marks. If you want to avoid it, you have to consider these uneven forces and support each side of the model according to level of forces they withstand." I think if we could see a few shots of the slicer file and see if the printer and resin can print something simple we can get there. Your print is mostly there, really, the printer can print and cure the resin, I think we just need to figure out this particular model.
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Nov 30, 2022 03:10
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The thought process I am having is to isolate the issue to the model/supports or the resin. Printing a model with supports and whatnot that you know have worked in the past might help to eliminate machine issues. What I am seeing when I look at the pictures of the mask is that the first layer is going down correctly, so gap between printing plate is good at the Z level. I see that supports are forming, which is good. The reason I want to see a picture of the slicer of the file is because I want to see if the gaps between the inner 2/3s and the outer bits of the mask are by design and what the shape looks like there. The wing on the left side of the picture looks like that side of the mask started to form correctly for a few mms and then had enough torque angle that it snapped, stayed on the fep, and the print continued growing that portion of the print as a flat pancake and then was lifted when the mass of the object could break it free from the FEP. That makes me think the arch area with no supports is undersupported. Once that goes the geometry on the whole thing can get really funky really quick and wreck the whole thing. How slow did you slow it down to? Try running it at 45 or 40. Also maybe add 1mm or so to the lift distance. If you shortened the lift distances restore them to normal and add 1mm. Do you happen to have a link to the mask on MMF or thingiverse or whatnot so I can look at it and see if I spot any difficult geometries?
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Nov 30, 2022 06:04
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Double post to say that those pistol grips look like the world's worst fleshlight. I have found that if I want to get an edge as straight as possible, especially to align with another part, that printing the piece with edge perpendicular to the build plate seems to work best. The machine seems to be most accurate along a Z axis. Any edge that is in direct contact with supports for the majority of it will get pulled or pushed slightly out of frame. You can probably dip those pieces in hot water and work them into shape. One thing you can do, depending on how thick they are, is use rubber bands or small clamps and submerge them in the hot water so you don't burn your hands.
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Nov 30, 2022 06:08
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I am really enjoying taking big huge buildings designed to be printed on FDM, like mage towers and whatnot, stuff for DnD campaigns, and taking the combined model and shrinking it way, way down and printing it in resin in like 6mm scale.
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Dec 7, 2022 04:56
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My glowforge has arrived! It works super easy. Can't wait to print out some mdf terrain and whatnot. Only issue is that the glowforge came with an exhaust hose that is actually somewhat short, at about 8 feet, and the exhaust port is on the left side of the machine so if the exhaust area is to the right of the machine you only have a few feet of duct, which is a problem with my set-up. It also won't print if it is below 40 which happens when my garage side door is open to facilitate exhaust from the glowforge. Since the ducting is so short it gets cold really quick since it is near the door. I think I am going to move the glowforge up to the home office with the resin 3D printer as I can get a duct to window adapter and make that process a lot simpler and maintain good temperature. And since you definitely don't leave the glowforge unattended I don't think the noise would be an issue.
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Dec 8, 2022 06:36
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Yeah, easiest would just be to buy a longer duct, but the instructions say to limit duct length. I don't yet know if that is something they have to say for liability or if it is practical.
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Dec 9, 2022 01:12
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Doctor Zero posted:I'm sure it's just some kind of liability thing. Technically there would be a greater volume of air to push, but unless you make it a mile long, I can't see it making a difference. As Chainclaw said, you could also put an in-line fan in it. Yeah, a longer duct is the plan I think. But I might have to move it regardless. Originally I wanted to have it in the garage, but the garage has no windows, only a side door and the main garage door. While it is easy enough to find or engineer an adapter for a regular window, it is harder to figure out for a whole door. In addition, the winter and summer here make the garage a little less than ideal tro work in. So my thought process is that it might be best to move the glowforge into the same room as the resin 3D printer, as it has a window. The noise from the glowforge is less important because it won't be operating while I am resting or sleeping, as my bedroom is next to the home office room with the printer.
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Dec 9, 2022 19:45
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queeb posted:made a thing That is super neat! I have not made any tabletop stuff with my glowforge yet, just Christmas ornaments and awards. Do you happen to know of a shop or a good search term for svg/patterns for wargame/tabletop related files?
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Dec 17, 2022 04:51
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I purchased a little hobby drawer that I really like from a going out of business sale. The company went defunct. I am going to try and replicate it and print one out and see if it works. If it does I can share the file with you! I think the glowforge would actually be perfect for making decorative army bases for displaying them. Like just use cheap draftboard and cut a bunch of 32mm or 25mm or 40mm or whatever holes, place that on a blank piece of wood, use a little putty or clay to slope the edges or whatnot, and it would work out great and be really clean.
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Dec 17, 2022 05:40
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bird food bathtub posted:That's why heavy supports go on the bottom of their feet, or under a rib cage on half of a model that's going to get glued together or something like that. Totally sacrificial areas that don't show up. Makes drat sure right from the start the model is going to stay anchored, and any sort of thought put in to the placement means the effect on the outcome is meaningless. If I am doing my own supports I always like to do a heavy on the bottom of each boot.
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Dec 17, 2022 07:07
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Anycubic has, confusing, two versions of a lot of resins. Is it possible you purchased V1 or V2 instead of the one you had previously?
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Dec 18, 2022 21:02
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I have the elegoo mercury wash station set for myself and purchased my sister and father the Anycubic 2 in 1. It definitely rattles the parts off the spinning plate and is super annoying. I did not find a good way to fix it, since I was only there for a little bit with my family printing stuff, but will ask my sister if she has a solution. I know exactly what you are talking about, and you have to be careful because if they rattle off and you are not paying attention because you are loading up the next print you can get a car crash jam up and break some of the delicate bits of the minis.
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Dec 19, 2022 08:02
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I am using my glowforge to make a custom base holder/platoon holder thingy for my Krieg forces. It is a lot of fun. I will show off the beta version. I am wondering if I want to do it in a nicer plywood or do it again in MDF and paint... Will show pics later!
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Dec 20, 2022 23:56
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OK, my picture is below. Sorry for the delay, I went to a holiday party. I printed this out on MDF/Draftboard and had some lessons learned. I thought that there was a lot of waste cutting out the holes where the figures will go so I decided I could make use of them and make them little tokens or counters. Unfortunately I came up with this idea after the first round of cuts, and the Glowforge had a little bit of alignment trouble it seems like, unfortunately. Anything it prints in a single session comes out perfect, but coming back after the fact and doing another layer on top seems to be really hard. Second mistake I made was the light engraving of the Eagle was originally outside the bounds and I didn't notice so it didn't get cut and I had to do that after the fact as well, although that mistake is easy enough to fix. I also made the command squade base holes 32mm instead of 28.5mm. Again, easy enough fix. This is, again, just the draft idea. The final version is going to be two pieces. One thin back board and then all these individual ones on top. The eagle will be engraved on the tops and bottoms though, which should look cool. I am trying to figure out the best way to get the individual stands to attach to the bottom board. Maybe magnets or maybe some dowels or something. Also, the upper right area which is blank here, on the finished product will have some Krieg style line art on the base plate in that area, and if I can figure it out a small box to hold the counters. I am trying to figure out realistically how many of each counter I need for each platoon. I wanted to use the upper right area originally for a heavy weapons squad, but 3 60mm bases wouldn't quite fit nicely. The end plan is to have a plate for all my 40k forces. Obviously multiple plates per Army, as needed, but each one will have a different symbol or maybe even different wood used. This plate is German themed because I printed out like 100 grimguard/Krieg guys getting ready for the new codex. (100 IG guys for less than 50 bucks is amazing!). The Cadians I have that came in the big new box are going to be 101st airborne themed, Easy Company. I am doing this because the big square kneepads they have look just like the reinforced m42 uniforms. Then all my old Cadians I am going to dress up as either Glider Infantry or standard Rifle Infantry. This will be a good and thematic way to explain away the difference between the new and old Cadian sculpts in the same army. The plate for them will of course feature actual Easy company names and symbols. The german one here I just came up with using a list of most popular german baby names of the time period. Although I guess a little booboo is that those are all first names. I assume foreign militaries go by last name, like ours does, but I am not sure. But the Krieg Army goes by first names, so I am good. I am getting an order of wood from Home Depot in a few days and will see what I can make! 
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Dec 21, 2022 07:20
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They are for personal use only, at this point, especially because the line art I am adding to the upper right is just stuff I right clicked and saved off deviantart or GIS. If I were to sell them I am not sure they would be a worthwhile endeavor, due to the customization needs and whatnot. That being said... the little soldiers don't need individual names so I could make something up that is relatively generic but still looks nice. Is there an easy way to figure out what symbols/designs are considered common use and which are protected by GW? Obviously the Aquilla is theirs, at least with the block design, but the same similar image that is the flag/symbol of the Holy Roman Empire is public domain. The Chaos symbols I would assume are all copyright, but maybe some are generic? I looked at GW's copyright and trademark page but it seems to cast a wider net than they can realistically enforce. Also I have glowforge Premium, so I don't think that fixes the issue in regards to laser accuracy on multicuts.
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Dec 21, 2022 20:11
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To my knowledge their litigious nature backfired on them about a decade ago when they tried to enforce a trademark of Space Marine or Imperial Guard and lost, invalidating a lot of their trademarks. I think this is why we got the fake latin names, but I am not sure.
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Dec 22, 2022 00:46
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If they have a big cape I definitely glue them to base later. If they are wearing pants I will probably glue them to the base. Lots of times I come up with the plan on a per model basis.
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Dec 23, 2022 03:49
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So a couple days ago we were talking about GW and copyright and whatnot, but now I am curious. I have purchased a lot of decals/sliders for different factions, factions that don't get specific kits or parts or decals, but are shown in in the codex and whatnot. Is stuff like that legal, or stuff like this : https://www.etsy.com/listing/135309..._search_click=1 ? I would think not, but I have purchased a lot of custom parts so now I am wondering.
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Dec 24, 2022 18:25
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Ok, that is what I thought. As I am trying to wrap my mind around what exactly is or is not copyright/TM, it makes sense that the images and symbols used throughout GW material are obviously protected. Does trademark/copyright apply to excerpts of rules? In particular, could I sell small counters or chits that have helpful gameplay info on them? It seems clear I could sell little chits that are super generic, like "1 Hit" or "+1 to wound" or things like that, but lets say I want to make and sell little chits for the various new Imperial Guard command abilities. Is a chit that says "First Rank Fire, Second Rank Fire : Lasguns are Heavy 3" infringing? I imagine a chit that says "FRFSRF: LGs are H3" would be sufficiently vague to avoid, but I am worried about some of the abilities with shorter names or less complex abilities.
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Dec 24, 2022 19:11
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