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Rebuild it yourself. Take lots of photos. Post up here. They're not hard to do. Get some good circlip pliers and a couple of those dentist pics from the surplus store. rdb posted:Ehhh, you can just about put a 48RE on a 100k mile checklist. Same with whatever turd of an automatic came behind the 7.3 PSD. The 4L60 gets a bad reputation for a reason, but you can do much worse. 4R100. not comparable to a 48RE or a 4L60. They're more like a 4L80 but not as good.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2021 03:55 |
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# ¿ May 10, 2024 17:43 |
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RIP Paul Walker posted:There are two types of people in the world: those who have been doused by a neverending downpour of automatic transmission fluid and those who have never done anything with an automatic transmission. You ain lived till you've done this after a 10hr shift at a different job in a shop flooded 3" in water and the powers out. btw the pump has shat itself so goodluck have fun, btw customer is coming to pick it up at 8am tomorrow. This is a rust belt rover too so everything is gonna fight you. There's some rite of passages to wrenching. Taking an involuntary ATF bath is one. E: also these fuckers on the side of the road. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Mar 4, 2021 |
# ¿ Mar 4, 2021 06:31 |
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monsterzero posted:
mmmm toasty. There's your problem. Probably worth shuffling the steels as well. monsterzero posted:
fwiw that's the front-most reverse apply clutch, there's a second reverse (lo/rev)apply clutch alllll the way in the back transmission body. It can be a bear to remove due to the circlip having hard access. I rebuilt a bunch of these boxes off this diagram alone, worth having for a reference: Have a bonus cutaway of how it all works together to pull botes
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# ¿ Mar 13, 2021 19:22 |
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monsterzero posted:
Shuffle the order. Outside in, etc. If you have a good set of verniers you can gauge em all, the ones against the piston and drum usually bite first, with the inner ones later. If they have gotten hot enough to blue, don't reuse. Just get new ones.
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2021 22:39 |
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1-3 look like apply piston inner seals. referencing the diagram, 331, 332, 334, 340. Assy. 564 for the input drum. if two are identical it could be 538 or 179 inside the pump 886 for the shell, 338 for lo/reverse clutch. 4: you're right. ref 178. 5 380? 6: input shaft seal to output shaft. 475 in the diagram. 7,8,9 look like solenoid seals to me too. 10,11,12 are what you say they are. 034, 070, 074.
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# ¿ Mar 20, 2021 19:17 |
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monsterzero posted:
Its only $35! And also its your first time going through one of these, some small issues here and there are expected. Don't sweat it.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2021 03:39 |
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monsterzero posted:
Happy to help! It was fun to wrench with a chill goon. No stripped or rounded out bolts or bloody knuckles. Super smooth sailing so to speak. seating the gearbox against the 5.3 under half an hour, nice thing well bedded in GM trucks. Shoot the joints with some fresh grease now that its all assembled, especially the joint at the differential that uses the strap style yoke. Did you retain the phasing between the two drivelines when the new ujoints were installed? Also might just be new ujoint things. The spicer joints on the farmtruck are very vocal about maintenance. Forklift shenanigans? Like 4L60s its been a while but yeah I got you fam (both cars were mine, the E320 became parts to repower a 190E)
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2021 18:04 |
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rdb posted:Well, re read that. Maybe a fan clutch. This.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2021 04:26 |
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SpeedFreek posted:To be fair those last about as long as a clutch does. Yeah sure if you don't know how to drive stick and or leave a foot hanging on the clutch pedal. Better comparison is a 4l60 lasts about that of a belt drive CVT.
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2022 18:12 |
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load up a blunderbuss of front end parts and aim it squarely at the front end. Throw money at shocks/springs/arms/joints/rod ends/knuckles. Mostly in that order.
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# ¿ Mar 13, 2022 22:33 |
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Yeah that's just vacuum assist doing its thing. BigPaddy posted:You can get almost all of it from Rockauto and it won’t be a huge amount. Just a large heavy truck that is 20 years old will likely need all the suspension by now. bit of this. bit of some offroading parts will do ya. going fast in the dirt is never cheap.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2022 14:39 |
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Advent Horizon posted:Toyota: still using 6x5.5”. Sir the Land Cruiser thread is thataway. Ford went metric in the 90s with the SD, GM now too. Times are a changin' like back in the 80s and the ol GM four-hunnert platform was half imperial half metric. Sometimes on the same sub-assembly.
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# ¿ Jul 28, 2022 16:49 |
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16mm and 5/8 interchange. 14mm is alllmost 9/16. 15mm is an outlier. in the 80s the big threes' pickups were all a hodge podge of metric and imperial. some worse than others. the 400 is imo the worst offender. TH400 is imperial. 700r4 is a hodge podge of metric/imperial depending on the year. 4l60s are metric. nv3500/4500 afaik will be a hodgepodge depending on year of manufacture. Some manuals will have a cooler and pump. no manual transmission in a 400 will.
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# ¿ Jul 28, 2022 19:34 |
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Advent Horizon posted:The auto coolers in a radiator are great for power steering, if you ever feel like you need more cooling in that system. Yeah nah don't do this. The built in cooler is a two fold approach for an automatic. It helps get its fluid up to temp faster and keeps its fluid at roughly engine coolant temp. The power assisted steering/hydroboost systems do not require either of these things hence having a non-thermostatically-controlled dedicated cooler if anything at all. 800 power steering systems already have a dedicated plate cooler, there's no need to add a milkshake party to a system controlling power assist to steering (and in some cases brakes).
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2022 15:36 |
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For something of this vintage this is about what you'd find in the fsm. E: any domestic truck manual of this era will have some drawings but they're crude at best in monochrome and drawn probably with a crayon. cursedshitbox posted:
If you want cool infographics, cab removal steps and the like with detailed cad drawings buy something from ehhhh 2010 onwards. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Dec 28, 2022 |
# ¿ Dec 28, 2022 17:38 |
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fwiw pretty sure that's a fet and not a big dumb resistor.
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# ¿ Dec 30, 2022 19:08 |
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# ¿ May 10, 2024 17:43 |
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3V mods like to hold onto their plugs like early 2V mods wouldn't. Get the tools to do it properly and the job will suck a lot less. metal lower intake is a pro, should have it by now. 5r110W is fiiine. Chassis is the same from '05.5-12. Cab stuff is mostly '08-16 for most of the interior plastics. That doesn't have the power equipment group so adding dumb poo poo like foglights requires a rework of the fusebox or just... throw wire. (it's the gateway for the can network, i've read rumor that the power equipment group board drops in.) It won't have a ton of power but unlike the 6.4 powerstroke of the time it still runs. It's a good beater. Catch up on whatever maintenance you see fit and run it.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2023 01:17 |