Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Rebuild it yourself. Take lots of photos. Post up here. They're not hard to do. Get some good circlip pliers and a couple of those dentist pics from the surplus store.


rdb posted:

Ehhh, you can just about put a 48RE on a 100k mile checklist. Same with whatever turd of an automatic came behind the 7.3 PSD. The 4L60 gets a bad reputation for a reason, but you can do much worse.

4R100. not comparable to a 48RE or a 4L60. They're more like a 4L80 but not as good.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

RIP Paul Walker posted:

There are two types of people in the world: those who have been doused by a neverending downpour of automatic transmission fluid and those who have never done anything with an automatic transmission.

You ain lived till you've done this after a 10hr shift at a different job in a shop flooded 3" in water and the powers out. btw the pump has shat itself so goodluck have fun, btw customer is coming to pick it up at 8am tomorrow. This is a rust belt rover too so everything is gonna fight you.

There's some rite of passages to wrenching. Taking an involuntary ATF bath is one.


E: also these fuckers on the side of the road.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Mar 4, 2021

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

monsterzero posted:



To paraphrase the podcast with slides I was listening to while I worked on this: Well, Here's My Problem...



Input drum clutches, extra crispy.


mmmm toasty. There's your problem. Probably worth shuffling the steels as well.




monsterzero posted:


The reverse drum and clutches look like I would expect. Band is in good shape too.




fwiw that's the front-most reverse apply clutch, there's a second reverse (lo/rev)apply clutch alllll the way in the back transmission body. It can be a bear to remove due to the circlip having hard access.
I rebuilt a bunch of these boxes off this diagram alone, worth having for a reference:

Have a bonus cutaway of how it all works together to pull botes

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

monsterzero posted:



As in, change their order or replace? I was going to clean them and sand them with red scotchbrite pads. I'll check em for flatness and hot spotting when I do. Always grateful for any pointers or things to check.

Shuffle the order. Outside in, etc. If you have a good set of verniers you can gauge em all, the ones against the piston and drum usually bite first, with the inner ones later.
If they have gotten hot enough to blue, don't reuse. Just get new ones.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
1-3 look like apply piston inner seals.
referencing the diagram, 331, 332, 334, 340. Assy. 564 for the input drum.
if two are identical it could be 538 or 179 inside the pump
886 for the shell, 338 for lo/reverse clutch.

4: you're right. ref 178.
5 380?
6: input shaft seal to output shaft. 475 in the diagram.
7,8,9 look like solenoid seals to me too.
10,11,12 are what you say they are. 034, 070, 074.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

monsterzero posted:


The rest of me is a cheap gently caress who says to buy this cover...

...because it's VIRUS PROTECTED and a new rotor but it's feeling like good money after bad. Like more than normal.


Its only $35! And also its your first time going through one of these, some small issues here and there are expected. Don't sweat it.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

monsterzero posted:


After he left I drove the truck around a bit. Still shifting good after 20 miles, but there is an increasing vibration over 40-ish mph. Hopefully it's a flat spot on the tires from sitting, but I might have hosed up something in the driveline.

Happy to help! It was fun to wrench with a chill goon. No stripped or rounded out bolts or bloody knuckles. Super smooth sailing so to speak. seating the gearbox against the 5.3 under half an hour, nice thing well bedded in GM trucks.
Shoot the joints with some fresh grease now that its all assembled, especially the joint at the differential that uses the strap style yoke. Did you retain the phasing between the two drivelines when the new ujoints were installed? Also might just be new ujoint things. The spicer joints on the farmtruck are very vocal about maintenance.

Forklift shenanigans? Like 4L60s its been a while but yeah I got you fam

(both cars were mine, the E320 became parts to repower a 190E)

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

rdb posted:

Well, re read that. Maybe a fan clutch.

This.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

SpeedFreek posted:

To be fair those last about as long as a clutch does.

Yeah sure if you don't know how to drive stick and or leave a foot hanging on the clutch pedal.

Better comparison is a 4l60 lasts about that of a belt drive CVT.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
load up a blunderbuss of front end parts and aim it squarely at the front end.

Throw money at shocks/springs/arms/joints/rod ends/knuckles. Mostly in that order.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Yeah that's just vacuum assist doing its thing.


BigPaddy posted:

You can get almost all of it from Rockauto and it won’t be a huge amount. Just a large heavy truck that is 20 years old will likely need all the suspension by now.

bit of this. bit of some offroading parts will do ya. going fast in the dirt is never cheap.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Advent Horizon posted:

Toyota: still using 6x5.5”.
American domestic brands: “Hurr, durr, I made up my own bolt pattern because metric

Sir the Land Cruiser thread is thataway.

Ford went metric in the 90s with the SD, GM now too. Times are a changin' like back in the 80s and the ol GM four-hunnert platform was half imperial half metric. Sometimes on the same sub-assembly.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
16mm and 5/8 interchange. 14mm is alllmost 9/16. 15mm is an outlier. in the 80s the big threes' pickups were all a hodge podge of metric and imperial. some worse than others. the 400 is imo the worst offender.

TH400 is imperial. 700r4 is a hodge podge of metric/imperial depending on the year. 4l60s are metric. nv3500/4500 afaik will be a hodgepodge depending on year of manufacture.
Some manuals will have a cooler and pump. no manual transmission in a 400 will.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Advent Horizon posted:

The auto coolers in a radiator are great for power steering, if you ever feel like you need more cooling in that system.

Yeah nah don't do this. The built in cooler is a two fold approach for an automatic. It helps get its fluid up to temp faster and keeps its fluid at roughly engine coolant temp. The power assisted steering/hydroboost systems do not require either of these things hence having a non-thermostatically-controlled dedicated cooler if anything at all.

800 power steering systems already have a dedicated plate cooler, there's no need to add a milkshake party to a system controlling power assist to steering (and in some cases brakes).

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
For something of this vintage this is about what you'd find in the fsm.
E: any domestic truck manual of this era will have some drawings but they're crude at best in monochrome and drawn probably with a crayon.

cursedshitbox posted:


Engine removal.
1. drain coolant and oil, pull batteries. Optionally pull the hood.
2. while the fluids is draining dismantle airbox/inlet/etc then exhaust down pipes.
3. pull PAS pump/alternator/a/c compressor
4. pull fan, shroud, radiator, etc.
5. remove electrical harness from the engine, starter, ground straps, etc.
6. move bucket(s) of fluid out of my way before tripping over them dumping them everywhere. This step is important!
7. pull engine to transmission bolts
8. pull motor mount bolts
9. pull engine.
9b. realize you forgot part of part 5. undo groundstrap.
10. installation is reverse of removal except you swear in different places.

If you want cool infographics, cab removal steps and the like with detailed cad drawings buy something from ehhhh 2010 onwards.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Dec 28, 2022

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
fwiw pretty sure that's a fet and not a big dumb resistor.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
3V mods like to hold onto their plugs like early 2V mods wouldn't. Get the tools to do it properly and the job will suck a lot less.
metal lower intake is a pro, should have it by now.
5r110W is fiiine.
Chassis is the same from '05.5-12. Cab stuff is mostly '08-16 for most of the interior plastics.
That doesn't have the power equipment group so adding dumb poo poo like foglights requires a rework of the fusebox or just... throw wire. (it's the gateway for the can network, i've read rumor that the power equipment group board drops in.)

It won't have a ton of power but unlike the 6.4 powerstroke of the time it still runs.

It's a good beater. Catch up on whatever maintenance you see fit and run it.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply