|
Another GMT800 checking in here -- '05 Escalade. I had a 4L65E scare 2 years ago, saw flaring during shifting of 2-3 and my transmission guy thought the 3-4 clutch pack was gone. Car had about 105k miles at the time. Transmission guy tried changing solenoids and that worked great. 2 years later it's still going. I've got a number of things to do to it, just haven't had time. Most recent one is an electrical burning smell when the blower is on full... haven't looked to see if that's indicative of the blower motor or the resistor, but I figure I'll find out soon enough. 
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2021 18:40
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 18:13 |
|
|
Raluek posted:i dont know the GMT800 in particular, but in most cars the high speed bypasses the resistor entirely and just connects 12V to the motor monsterzero posted:I'd bet a Bud Light or three on you finding a spicy connector behind the dash, because what Raluek said. This makes sense. As I think about it, I get the smell not when it's on high speed, but after it's been on high speed for at least 10 minutes or so... just enough time for a spicy connector to get hot. I had the same thing with the tailgate electrics going out with a melted ground in a connector.  Can I pull the HVAC controls without pulling the radio?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2021 17:38
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:There are two types of people in the world: those who have been doused by a neverending downpour of automatic transmission fluid and those who have never done anything with an automatic transmission. Oh, that full pan isn't going to be that heavy... oh wait, it's off balance... splash.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2021 21:05
|
|
|
monsterzero posted:I'm imagining a config that runs great, passes smog, but the headlights are controlled by the passenger-side window switch. Well, since the TPMS is controlled there, why not?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2021 23:15
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:I won't even think about doing plugs anymore without a set of these handy. It's like cheating. Yep, got a set of those when I changed plugs on my Escalade. Those long reach pliers come in handy in a lot of other places, too.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2021 22:57
|
|
|
monsterzero posted:That being the case, I'm switching into fix-what-ain't-broken mode: I just did the belts/pulleys on mine last year after the bearings started to squeal. Super easy job. I just used the pliers yesterday to pick up a plastic piece that fell down into the engine bay of the Passat. For plug wire removal on a GMT800, remember to twist and twist and twist the boot before pulling. That poo poo gets locked on there solid.
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2021 18:16
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:There is an absolute poo poo-ton of debate on this topic on the various LS boards, not helped by the fact that GM uses different steam hole setups by year. Has there been any GM engineer that has stuck his head up on this? When I had a mid-'90s Olds Aurora with the 4.0 Northstar, there was talk about a low oil pressure warning that ended up being a sensor issue (the Northstar idled with a ridiculously low oil pressure, but was fine at operating rpms). A verified engineer popped into the forums and pretty much said "don't worry about the low oil pressure warning at idle, it was a miscalibrated sensor" and that proved to be true, over time.
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2021 20:08
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:Oh man I used to love the Aurora and was tempted a few times but GM. Was it a fun/good car? I loved my Aurora. I bought it for next to nothing with over 150k miles on it in the early '00s. The 4.0 version of the Northstar motor was fantastic (other than the phantom low oil pressure warning that would pop up in the summer at idle). The car was solid, loaded with features, and still looks modern today. I think GM gimped the 4.0 Northstar with a restrictive intake, because I cobbled up a different one and on top of awesome induction noise, it was noticeably more powerful. On the Northstar -- I have had 3 of them and they have all been great, dependable, strong motors. A '93 STS, a '96 Aurora and an '02 Deville. The biggest repair I had on any of them was a water pump on the Deville. They were all great cars.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2021 00:14
|
|
|
Crunchy Black posted:late 80s/early 90s GM in the cars was more funny and awful than tragic as the 2000's I can give solid testimony to that. I lived in Fort Wayne, Indiana in the late '80s and had girlfriend/friends there in the early '90s. The father of one of my good friends was the VP at the local GM truck assembly plant. With that, the plant always had a slew of new GM cars that the executives could use at their leisure. That was nice, because any time we wanted a road trip or needed a bigger vehicle, he'd grab us a new van or something. On the other hand, it wasn't uncommon for those new vehicles to poo poo themselves. My favorite was a brand new 1990 Buick Reatta, right after Buick launched those with much fanfare. It was a $30k BMW coupe when a base BMW 325i stickered for $25k. It was pre-cell phone days, and I don't remember how I got notified, but my friend had taken the Reatta out to a new housing development that was in the middle of construction. With his girlfriend. At night. So, I guess they were going to have (or maybe had) some quiet time. Anyway... somehow I got notified that they were stuck and I had to pick them up. The Reatta has poo poo out reverse gear and they were facing a muddy empty lot. Instead of trying to tow it, I got in and just blasted through the mud enough to get the car turned around. I'm sure his dad was thrilled with the muddy mess of a car when they got home. This is the same friend's dad that had a '64 Corvette convertible that we hooned around in. But that's a whole 'nother thread of stories.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2021 14:48
|
|
|
monsterzero posted:It lives again! Jumped it, returned some loaner tools and blasted a couple exits up and down the highway. No new noises, in fact a few fewer: that 40-55mph driveline vib seems to be less, and the squeak I heard over bad pavement at low speed and attributed to the truck being an old POS seems to be gone. That's good news. I just backed out the Escalade and left a big tire mark from the LF tire at full lock. I think the ball joint is worn allowing too much of an angle. From what I've seen, that's not a fun part to replace. As my wife pulled away, I also noticed that the back is sagging. Probably needs time to pump up the rear bags, but I'm thinking about just switching the rear to static. I don't need load leveling, and the stock shocks are barely keeping air in.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2021 18:44
|
|
|
monsterzero posted:That was the first job I did on the truck. 2wd, made it a little easier but drilling out eight rivets suuucked. If I had to do it again and didn't already have bolted ball joints I'd buy a whole control arm. Then you only have to worry about getting the taper out of the hub. I just got the LF Control Arm new AC Delco from Crazy Jeff's Discount Warehouse for $50. I'll keep watching and pick up the parts over time. Kinda exciting, I'm sure that after 16 years and 110k miles that suspension needs a serious refresh. monsterzero posted:Current mood: Whatcha doing in there? Not much at that section of the engine bay...
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2021 20:46
|
|
|
When I'm suspension parts shopping, is there any brand in particular I SHOULD look for? Right now I'm looking for AC Delco Professional or Moog. I'm assuming there's no reason for anything other than Bilstein shocks to replace Z55 Autoride?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2021 16:31
|
|
|
Godholio posted:Contrary to common sense, "Professional" is Delco's mid-tier quality line (now renamed Gold). OE is the best, then Gold/Professional, then Silver/Advantage. I knew there were tiers, but didn't know exactly what they were, thanks. I'm okay with mid-tier, don't need OE. I think mid-tier on a 15 year old truck, replacing 15 year old parts will still be a significant upgrade. I don't really even care that much, it rides fine for when I use it, but I've only put 10k miles on it since I got it over 5 years ago. It's just in such good shape that I want to keep it nice. Especially since Hoovie thinks they're cool. (I'm joking, but: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeoS87c8Ka0 Not to brag or anything, but my short wheelbase Escalade is potentially even more rare than a full Platinum -- it's got a lot of the Platinum identifiers -- chrome grille, chrome rings on the steering wheel, full black dashboard, etc., but it was never really mentioned as an option as far as I know... seems like the SWB models got the Platinum parts when they had an overage in the warehouse and created an RPO WSD, which is "APPEARANCE PACKAGE CADILLAC ESCALADE AWD, "COLLECTOR'S EDITION" CADILLAC ESCALADE AWD "COLLECTOR'S EDITION"(WSD)" So I guess I'm kinda fancy. 
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2021 21:02
|
|
|
Dad used a couple of these on his trucks. They fit well and the tops were tight, plus it was easy to fold up for most hauling needs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqI1uAkB6DE
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2021 12:26
|
|
|
GMT800 problem -- 2005 Escalade with rear coil springs has developed a squeak from the rear. Speed dependent. It's weird in that it squeaks like a high-pitched rubber chirp. I haven't looked at it, but I'm thinking either universal or... ?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2021 17:00
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Driveshaft universal joint is my first assumption there as well. Undiagnosed, but I took it for ~80 miles on the interstate today. There was heavy construction traffic and quick slow downs and I smelled brakes, but figured it was just because everyone was stopping very quickly. Then I got to where I was going, a farm in the middle of nowhere, and smelled... brakes. Checked the wheels and the right rear was hot and smelly. Same thing when I got home. So the squeak is still there and I have to at least pull the rr brake apart and lube it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2021 22:27
|
|
|
And the next time I drive it, the oil pressure gauge pegs at 80psi. Awesome. Oil pressure sensor ordered. Edit: Oil pressure sensor replaced. Man, they didn't make it easy to get to, I needed a ladder to reach. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Oct 4, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2021 16:51
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:Mine is doing the same thing. Of course, it's been sitting forever because I got tired of shoveling premium into a 13MPG gas hog just to get my rear end to and from work, plus it needed some work done anyways. Both rear calipers are either not moving, or moving very little. They were working perfectly when I parked it up 5 (I think?) years ago. I had to move rather abruptly a couple years ago and decided to try to limp it to my new place. I found pretty quickly that the rears were close to seized up, but I powered through it and just tried to take it easy on the brakes instead. Slight lols were had when I pulled into a gas station along the way and asked to use their hose to cool them down and the steam generated when I hosed them off caused at least a couple people to poo poo bricks because it looked like it was straight up on fire. As for cause, I suspect it's the phenolic pistons swelling. The NHTSA did a giant nerdy study on it. Rather than gently caress with the old rusty probably seized garbage, I got a set of reman calipers ready to go in, just haven't gotten to it yet as I'm spending all of my car tinkering time on my project SVX at the moment. Good to know. Mine seems to have freed up with driving, but now that there's a known failure mode, I'll keep an eye out for some remans. quote:
New oil pressure sensor and the gauge is correct again.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2021 12:08
|
|
|
Turbo Fondant posted:Oh poo poo I wasn't really paying attention, a dropped parking shoe lines up with a speed dependant squeal and a hot rear brake. These parking brakes are awful (I deleted mine after replacing everything like 3 or 4 times) Thanks, on my list. I don't think I've ever even engaged the parking brake on that thing.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2021 00:24
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Assuming nobody's hosed with it, RPO sticker should be somewhere on the glovebox door. You'll be looking for a GT# or GU# code and you can cross reference that to the ratio the truck had, at least from the factory. On this point, if you want to get into the paperwork portion, https://www.compnine.com/vid.php is a good place to get an RPO report. I ran it on my '05 Escalade before I bought it and it came back with over 95 RPO codes. It's a lot to sort through, but gives you a good idea about how the vehicle you're looking at left the factory.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 10, 2022 00:05
|
|
|
Just missed...
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2022 19:51
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:And you weren't going 11 mph. Shameful. Shameful because I wasn't going 111 mph.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2022 00:33
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:load up a blunderbuss of front end parts and aim it squarely at the front end. And if you don't hit them all at once and just do some... they'll fail in reverse order (except the knuckles). meatpimp fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Mar 13, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2022 23:03
|
|
|
On this topic, what's a good modern code reader? All I have is generic old ones and I know there are a lot of the market now that can get into all the specific stepper actuations and stuff that formerly required a tec2. GMT800 necessary, multi-manufacturer would be great.
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Mar 27, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2022 13:32
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Sometimes the wiring harnesses fail, too. Truth. My Escalade has has an electrical smell coming from deep-winter warmups for 2 years. I fully expect to find a spicy wiring harness when I finally pull the HVAC head.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2022 03:00
|
|
|
nitrogen posted:Supposedly changing the oil pressure switch in these is supposed to be easy but good God drat I scratched my loving hand up a treat and I'm not sure I got the oil sending unit screwed in all the way. Is there some magic way that I'm supposed to do this to make it easier? If you're meaning the oil pressure sensor, it's tough to reach (I needed a ladder), but it seemed reasonably easy to get to with a long extension and swivel, just needed to do some things by feel. I did, though, drop the old sender when I removed it, and never found it... I imagine it fell out somewhere, but 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2022 21:15
|
|
|
Turbo Fondant posted:I should probably do a thread for this phase of GMT shenanigans cause there is a LOT of poo poo going down but Yes, you should. In other GMT800 news, I finally got to replacing the right rear caliper that was dead seized. I had squeezed it back with enough force that it didn't even try to engage for a while, which was nice, but eventually, it got stuck again with the pads dragging badly. After a new caliper and brake fluid change, it's braking so much better... imagine that.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2022 19:41
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Does anyone know where to find the gear ratios of the various transmissions and years? I've got a '92 with a 5 speed manual and no tachometer. I've never driven a V8 before so I don't know what different RPM sound like. I'm going to be towing soon so I expect I'll want to be in 4th for that but I want to calculate RPMs to make sure that I don't sit near redline. I swear for a generation that talks about "hur hur kids today can't drive stick" everyone that owns one of these chose the automatic. Not a direct reply, but we had a mid-'90s K1500 with a V8 and 5 speed and no tach. It never really mattered, because the engine fell flat as soon as it got out of the torque range. In other words -- just use some mechanical empathy and it'll be fiiiiiine.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2022 17:41
|
|
|
Well, the Escalade is braking fine, but the caliper replacement broke it. Not surprising, I've known the rear shocks were sketchy for a while, and when I had it up, i noticed the boot were pretty torn up at the point of flexing that is exposed when it's jacked up. So... Service Ride Control message for the first time. Awesome. What's 2022 conventional wisdom on the Z55 automatically adjustable suspension rear shock replacement? I have a Dorman compressor right now, and an extra Dorman compressor on the shelf, but I don't know if I should replace with passive shocks, or what... thoughts? Edit: looks like bypassing the error code is easy enough with resistors. But I may need to change springs if I don't replace air shocks with air shocks... what about just getting a set of standard air shocks, pumping up to the level I want, and using the resistors to tell the computer to gently caress itself? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jul 27, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jul 27, 2022 22:01
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Truth. My Escalade has has an electrical smell coming from deep-winter warmups for 2 years. I fully expect to find a spicy wiring harness when I finally pull the HVAC head. Should have looked at this over the summer. I started it this morning at -8*, and 10 minutes later I sat down to a huge electrical burning smell. Blower motor still works, but something's close to failure. 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2022 00:23
|
|
|
STR posted:I'm sure you know where I'm going with this - was it on high, or a different speed? Still have all the blower speeds available. It's the automatic dual zone controller. I haven't seen a lot of difference between defrost and regular, so my bet is at least a blend door or two.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2022 13:17
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:I smelled the burning on my 2003 and now I only have high on the blower working, I'm guessing it's a resistor pack that had enough. I would love it to be just a resistor pack. 2005 Escalade, mine has heated and folding side mirrors.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 25, 2022 00:35
|
|
|
So I did a bit of troubleshooting of the HVAC today. I warmed it up for about 10 minutes and was sitting in a parking lot. HVAC controls set to "Auto." Started to smell electrical. Ran the blower speed up and down, still have full range of blower speeds. Ran blower on 5 different settings from low to high with no smell. Ran the manual air direction through all of its ranges, seems to have blend doors working all over -- can get direct air to the face, to the feet, to the windshield, and combined. From what I see, it's working, just getting more burn-y as time goes on. If it stays warm here, I may pull the bezel and see what's behind the HVAC controller.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2022 00:37
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I think you want to pull the blower motor resistor and see what it looks like. Might be full of crap that is burning on the cooling fins when it's on anything other than high. That can be coming from the intake or just a constant supply form the blower fan if it's already packed full of poo poo. So pull that next. Blower resistor looked old and slightly corroded, not a lot of grunge in the fins, but I sprayed it with contact cleaner just 'cause it was nearby.  I'll keep watching it. sharkytm posted:The harness that leads to the resistor also likes to melt and eventually burn out. So check that too. I changed both in my old Silverado. Hopefully I won't have to go that deep.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2022 18:32
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:I think the auto climate gets that and the manual (5 fan speeds) gets the resistor pack. Yep, it's called a "Blower Motor Control Module / Resistor," I think... but same function and similar failure modes.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2022 23:26
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Blower resistor looked old and slightly corroded, not a lot of grunge in the fins, but I sprayed it with contact cleaner just 'cause it was nearby. Since this, I've warmed up the car in cold (sub-25*F) weather and there has been nothing but proper function and no smell.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 25, 2023 18:28
|
|
|
Front or rear?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2023 12:22
|
|
|
And now I'm upgrading windshield washer sprayers. Sigh. On the upgrade note -- I think I have dragged my feet enough for it to be a good thing. 2005 Escalade has had poo poo-tastic front brakes... small rotor, small caliper, long stopping distance. I have been planning to do the GMT900 caliper/bracket/rotor swap, but that seems to be a minor upgrade. Now it seems like the best current option is going to 4 piston calipers and rotors from a 2019+ Silverado/Sierra/Whatever else. They bolt on with no additional bracket, and are a direct fit other than a .15" thick spacer. Have any of you done this / investigated this?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2023 13:24
|
|
|
Will do, it's a side project, but something that's got m interested. First thing, though, is I have to pull the LF wheel and liner and find out why I dumped $3 of washer fluid all over the parking lot.  Any bets? Front pump? Rear pump? Reservoir? So many entertaining options!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 28, 2023 22:58
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 18:13 |
|
|
Turbo Fondant posted:Yeah the nylon line likes to split right over the battery or up by the cowl, they're pretty cheap at the dealer iirc if that's what happened. Alright, pulled back the fender liner and looked around. Lines look fine, connectors look fine, definitely leaking from the bottom of the reservoir area around the inner pump. Dry above, wet below. Any thoughts on whether it's the pump or the seal or something else?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 1, 2023 23:37
|
|