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spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



CoolCab posted:

there is no cable management police. no one will ever, ever be able to stop you.

That being said cable extensions are real nice looking and not terribly expensive.

Pandemic gave me enough time to really break out the zip ties and do things right.

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spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



CyberPingu posted:

I couldn't find a fan thread unfortunately so apologies if I missed this.

I'm thinking of repurposing some kit into a larger case but want to shed my RGB past .


I've got some components lying around including a Corsair 5000D airflow and 360mm AIO that I want to use but want to go for a noctua based build with that.

Currently I have 3 NF-A12x25s from my ITX build that I'll move over either as case fans or for the AIO but I'm wondering what the best fans are for the AIO, either the NF-A12X25S or getting 3 of the NF-F12s

Or another option that I hadnt considered that someone could pitch in.

The a12x25s are great for radiators and are quiet.

The only thing more interesting is this thick boy.

Phanteks (PH-F120T30_BG) T30-120 Fan, Premium high-Performance Fan, PWM, Black/Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B2LNFV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XPH25TV05FQEQHGPWC9V

If you have extra clearance it’s thicker than all the other fans on the market and just destroys them with performance.

However when you’re swinging around 360 radiators you can get away with whatever RGB fan comes on them because they’re not going to have to work very hard.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



born on a buy you posted:

I want to buy a prebuilt that will last a few years and I don’t need to do anything other than open a box and plug it in. Who are the good makers these days? Budget doesn’t matter

Stay away from dell/Alienware who uses lovely custom junk all over.

Corsair or Orion use normal parts and have decent shipping times but def more money then hunting for parts yourself.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Thumbtacks posted:

okay cool, this is the information I needed. I guess I'll wait until demand goes down for better cards, then.

The only wat to get out of GPU hell is to work extra hours or pinch pennies and save up.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



PolishPandaBear posted:

I posted this in the short HW questions thread, but that doesn't appear to get much traffic, and I've since done more troubleshooting.



I thought I'd check what happens if I add a video card to the system, so I stuck my 3080 in and voila, I get the MSI splash screen and can get into BIOS. If I power on with the uNRAID USB inserted, it boots into unRAID automatically.

So a gpu fixes the problem?

Find an old simple gpu on ebay. If I understand your post correctly in the computer is not for gaming anyway.

Heres a gtx 630 passive for $20

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224794068417?hash=item3456c545c1:g:ktEAAOSwayxh5IC2

It’s always nice to have a second GPU on hand anyway in case one dies and you literally don’t have a video out.

I shopped for like 3 1/2 seconds to find that one but you get the idea.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jan 22, 2022

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



KrunkMcGrunk posted:

i believe it. the socket lever is bowing, but the CPU is seated.

so i've got a new problem - i can't boot into windows. My motherboard keeps going into bios settings, despite seeing both hard drives and the usb stick that i have win 10 on. CMOS problem maybe?

I think it could be a bios hard drive setting.

I once updated a BIOS and then my motherboard refuse to understand my hard drives.

Look into UEFI or just legacy. Or CSM.

I can’t remember what exactly fixed my problem but it might be related to what your problem is.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



kliras posted:

I was looking at this from Lian-Li for a case I'm getting because my current one is such a pain to work in, and I got to wonder what to do with my 4x140mm fans in an air-cooled setup. How's this:



I'm assuming the best setup is 2x on side intake, 2x on bottom intake, and a 120mm exhaust. The GPU will be mounted regularly since the bottom intake would probably work just fine with that. I could buy the front intake kit, but the side intake is probably fine. They're sold out now anyway, so I can always change that.

Add to this the D15 with two coolers on it ofc.

I could add top exhaust fans, but it's both a bit of extra in terms of money, but it seems like something that would just disrupt the airflow as well.

Y'know what, here's an illustration of what it'd look like:



I’d add a second exhaust fan so you have one in the back and then just toss one in the very far back of the top.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



kliras posted:

Interesting. Should all (case) fans more or less operate at same speed / volume per second in that setup?

Oh, and would the one top fan have to be 120mm like the rear fan?

It’s good to be slightly positive with your overall pressure meaning you have more fans pulling air and then sucking hot air out.

However this is only because ideally you have filters over those intake fans.

Positive pressure is ideal because it will mean that the air will be trying to escape out every possible opening in your case like all of those holes in the back.

If you have negative pressure overall like four exhaust fans and to intake then air will try to rush in through every crack in the case and you’ll get dust and a lot of random places.

However with your set up, four intake fans and only one exhaust, those intake fans are going to struggle against the hot air that’s already sitting in the case.

A second exhaust fan helps with that.

As for the size and speed of the fan: always go for the largest fan that you can mount because it will move the most air at the lowest volume.

It’s also important to play around the bios with the fan speeds because you can tie them to the CPU temperature and get them to be completely silent while poo poo posting and great thermals while gaming if you don’t mind a little noise.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Problem Sleuth posted:

Hey everyone, got my pc built, thank you all for the help on picking parts. Everything works great, runs well, temps are excellent. There's just one weird issue that's really bugging me, which is that it smells! It's like some sort of chemical/plastic smell. It's not burning, I've opened it up and looked through everything, and there's been no issue whatsoever with performance. It's bugging me a lot though lol

I think it might be the PSU, although I'm not entirely sure. I got a Corsair RM750x, which seems like a solid PSU. Is there any way to fix this or should I return it and get a replacement? If so, should I stick with the RM750x or get something else?

Can you open up the side pannels and try to smell if chemical smell is localized to any particular place?

I found more plastic on my wife's Strix card a good 2 months after thinking I found the last bit of plastic.

and it wasn't even a little bit of plastic :(

It didn't smell like plastic ever though, even when I put it in with admittedly a lot of plastic. Every inch of the card had individual plastic clear stickers.

ASUS why?

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

They’re scratch guards.

Prevents them from being scratched during machining, testing, and packaging.

People are nuts and will RMA because of tiny little scratches, and these prevent against that.

I absolutely scratched my wife’s card trying to get one of the stickers off.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



change my name posted:

Even doing work and moving the mouse around on a high-refresh-rate monitor feels nice, I have a 170 Hz Gigabyte M27Q next to a secondary monitor that's only 75 Hz and the difference is night and day. Even scrolling through web pages is more satisfying.

I moved my forums over to my 60hz dell just now.

Oh god how did I live like that?

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Rinkles posted:

I think at a certain point you're just adding noise

Not if you cant tell the computer is on at idle. Set them to hang out at 600-700rpm.

Besides, fans have pretty lights :allears:

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



I don’t like all this talk of undervoltage it goes against my nature as an overclocker. I paid for the whole card and I am going to use the whole card dammit.

My house has a couple of 3080 TI‘s and here’s how we deal with it:

On my wife’s rig

She has three intake fans and two exhaust fans and they all plugged into a hub that plugs directly into her graphics card.

If you have a 3080 or 3080 TI take a look you might actually have a four pin fan connector. She has a STRIX card and I have an EVGA card and we both have them but im not using mine.

On my rig

I have all of my case fans wired into a fan hub and I have that fan hub wired into my AIO. Instead of my AIO increasing the speed of just the exhaust fans it increases the speed of all of my fans.

My radiator is set up as exhaust so cpu/gpu heat forces all my fans to ramp.

It’s pretty funny when we end a gaming session and her whole rig is back down to silent in like 5-10 seconds and mine is sitting there just wailing like crazy because the water takes about minute to cool.

Edit: temps

House temp 73 to 75° F

Gpu temps 75-76C

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 17, 2022

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Putting the rigs in a living room vs an office was a game changer room temperature wise.

Its still averaging a high of 72 in California where I live so yeah that does help too.

I haven’t moved any sliders up other then fan speed.

Colder card = faster card as far as I know so I figured I should make them cold.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:13 on May 17, 2022

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Undervolting is a form of overclocking in a way. Instead of trying to get higher clocks at stock voltage or higher, you're lowering the voltage and attempting to get higher clocks than that voltage on the stock curve would allow. The end result is that you often increase performance while undervolting while consuming less power. I consider this "using the whole card" too because you're still squeezing something extra from the card, just in the other direction.

Meanwhile, I've tried to do traditional overclocking and have had zero luck with my EVGA 3080 Ti FTW3 Ultra. I have at most gotten 1% extra performance from my card by overclocking compared to undervolting while consuming 30% more power and letting my system run two to three times as loud. No thanks. I'm also paying for an efficient cooling solution and a GPU that can accept lower voltages, and I'd like to get the most of that.

edit: Wait, so you aren't overclocking or changing any of the stock settings besides the fans? You are literally getting less out of your cards than the people who are undervolting. I mean, i understand not wanting to mess with the voltages and clock speeds and poo poo and just leaving everything at stock, but that's not "using the whole card" lol

Oh... you are totally right that could make it run faster but you risk having less stability by doing that though. I'm not interested in tweaking what is already phenomenal performance but ill get there if I'm ever unhappy.

I just noticed a bunch of people having GPU heat issues and wanted to share some ways how you can ramp system fans with GPU temps vs CPU temps. Its also really easy to keep a computer dead silent this way because small CPU intensive tasks wont make the system fans move up and down.

edit: You can also do this with other software or sensors but its definitely worth looking into if your case fans dont ramp while gaming and the GPU is toasty.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 07:42 on May 17, 2022

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK posted:

Sounds like someone doesn't actually want to use the whole card :colbert:

My resolution/settings are all cranked and I'm monitor limited at just about 144hz with the most intensive things I'm playing.

It would be pretty silly to overclock it now but I have no doubt this card will struggle eventually and then ill get there.

I keep hearing rumors that the next cards are somehow going to also be monstrous performance leaps again which is nuts if you have followed GPU power over time.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Agreed posted:

I fuckin love my RGB lights on my case, I wish I had more RGB in there, I wish it looked like a unicorn vomited inside it but I'll take what I can get

Caselights! I have 4 of these inside my wifes case and its absolutely ridiculous.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X1QJTQJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I have a more basic 4x light strip setup but my order history shows its not available anymore so I dont want to recommend some rando strip I dont own on amazon.

Agreed posted:

So, Doctor Videogames, it really is acceptable to have temperature spikes into the mid or even upper 80s on these things? Not gonna make it eat poo poo and die prematurely? I've read so many reports of users who are just letting these things roar at full stock settings and if it hits tjmax, oh well, they feel it's made for it - again that completely freaks me out, but it wouldn't be expected to actually pose a problem?

I guess I can bump my temperature limit up a bit and get a little more performance out of my chip... But I'm drawing the line at 90C, Intel and much smarter people than me who made it be damned (I am too primitive to trust advanced engineering because I am dumb). I'm getting like 88c max now under stress testing, as temps are ~90ºF outside (and no AC inside) and that is APPARENTLY FINE

Just strap a 360 RAD up there if you put that thing under full load a bunch maybe? Good excuse for a shinny new RGB waterblock :v:

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:12 on May 20, 2022

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Spacedad posted:

Picked up a gen 4 nvme 2tb wd black ssd that I'm gonna install over the weekend. So I have a few questions and stuff to get feedback on from you folks:

I currently I have a gen 3 1tb that's my main boot drive. I actually want to make the new gen 4 drive my boot drive. I was told it's a pain in the rear end to do that - but I'm going to look into it and do it when I can. If there's any potential snags I should know going into it, let me know.


Also - I went gen 4 because I am doing freelance animation work now that involves moving around and working with a lot of very big files, so this will definitely help efficiency - I will likely invest in another gen 4 2tb ssd in the very near future too. (The old one can go into a gaming/secondary build!)

I was also informed that gen 4 benefits from heatsinks, but it isn't necessary for gen 3. My gen 4 will use the heatsink that came with my motherboard, but the gen 3 will have no heatsink, but apparently that shouldn't be a problem. So I'm probably going to have to get a heatsink for if and when I replace it with a gen 4 though. Any thoughts or comment on the heatsink stuff?

For $10 you can slap a hunk of metal on them with some fins.

I'm using these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R2JQRDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The ones with fans might make a high pitched sound you can hear so I have been sticking to these.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



So I have been running a pretty classic balanced airflow: 3 fans in the front, 1 out the back and 2 out the cpu AIO on the top. The problem is it causes dust to slowly come in everywhere filters are missing. My computer has fairly open side panels and sits on the floor.

My wife asks why I dont use the top filter and as I'm about to say "those are exhaust fans" it hits me... they dont have to be.

I remember this video where Paul runs 9 fans in, 1 fan out, and gets good thermals. So I flipped the AIO fans over and now its 5 in, 1 out. Thermals are similar and now I have twice the filtered intake with tons of positive pressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkfengnRF9c

Its like that photo of the 5 black dudes standing behind 1 girl on a couch, but with fans.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Unsinkabear posted:

Do you notice any increase in noise from these intense positive pressure setups? I would imagine that with almost all vents occupied by intake fans, that air must start blowing out of the cracks and seams in a big way.

The 500D from corsair is a janky older design that is extremely open due to the hinged glass side panels that rest on tall stoppers.

If if it wasn’t for their marketing material going against this airflow set up I’d be convinced that this is how they actually intended the case to be used.

I want a new case but this one fits perfect under a tv where it is.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Black Griffon posted:

Also I'm stacking questions here, but is a 5600X vs. 5800X like a 3070 vs. a 3090 or more like a 2060ti vs. a 3080 or any other comparison of that nature?

It depends on what you want to do with the computer. In the vast majority of games a 5600X will not be the bottleneck even for a 3090ti. But a 5800X has more cpu power if you do heavy CPU workloads or use the CPU to do something heavy in the background while playing games.

I have a 9600k and 3080Ti and the GPU is able to hit 100% load no problem at 1440p 144hz

err posted:

Can you think of any reasons why they are regressing?

Crypto interest down, cost of energy up.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Speaking of flashing lights.

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Bundles/Builder-Bundles/RTX-3080-Ti-FE-Builders-Bundle/p/bundle-3080TI-FE-NA

$1900

A 3080 ti and a ton of other glowing poo poo for what a 3080 ti used to cost on its own a few months ago.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



repiv posted:

Some manufacturers sell dummy RGB RAM modules so you can fill out your slots without the memory controller strain of running 4 actual modules

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16820236512

I dont know what's worse. This product existing, or me refusing to buy it and instead buying more ram then I needed at the time for RGB reasons.

32gigs is the new 16 gigs :colbert:

Anyone looking to get into corsair RGB should start with the new "COMMANDER CORE XT."

6 fans pwm control
6 fans rgb control
1x port for 3 pin RGB (im running 4x 350mm next gen strips off that one port) https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-LS100-Smart-Lighting-Expansion/dp/B08L5NCQ25?th=1

Also stick to ASUS GPU / MOBOs. You can control an Asus GPU natively with icue and it even understands games like "tiny tina wonderlands."

My EVGA gpu cant be controlled by icue :(

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



SpartanIvy posted:

I have a PC Building technical issue. I've been building PCs for 2 decades now and I'm kind of stumped on this issue.

I have a build that's less than a year old of a 5900x, 3080 FE, an MSI Mortar Wifi M-ATX mobo, and Corsair SF750 SFX PSU.

After I took it apart and put it together a few weeks ago I ran 3DMark benchmarks for quite a while and never had any issues with it.

On last Friday I installed a different water pump in the system. The old one was a 3 pin pump that connected to the Pump header on the mobo and drew power for that. The mobo header is rated for 3A. The new pump connects to the PSU using a SSD power plug and connects to the 3 and 4 pin of the Pump mobo header for speed control. The swap went according to plan and there were no spills or errant drips or anything. The loop passed a pressure test before filling and the fill/drain ports are well away from the Mobo. I'm confident this isn't a water cooling related issue.

After installing the new pump and trying to run 3DMark again after adjusting fan curves and such, after about a minute into the Time Spy benchmark the PC just shuts off instantly. No BSOD, just off. Like the cord was yanked out. Sometimes it will turn itself back on after a moment, but most times it just stays off until I restart it.

It wasn't having any issues playing more demanding games like Halo Infinite, and could handle the 3DMark GPU benchmark Port Royale without issues. However, Time Spy always caused it to shut off. I have my computer hooked up to a UPS and while my PC stats showed it pulling around 400 watts, the PSU read 550 watts. Still well below the 750 watt PSU.

At this point I'm thinking it's the PSU failing and when it hits a high load it just gives up the ghost. A friend has an old 650 Watt PSU so I figured I'd give that a try just to see what happens, and while it POSTs fine, once it got to the windows login (and presumably spins up the GPU) it shuts off the same way.

Thinking it was definitely the PSU at this point I ordered a new EVGA 850 Watt SFX PSU to replace it. While I was waiting for it, the issue got worse, and now the system shuts off when I try to play Halo Infinite. However, other less demanding games like Counterstrike still work just fine. At this point I'm still thinking it's a failing PSU issue, and it's just getting worse as the PSU is supplying less and less wattage.

The new PSU came in yesterday and after hooking it up, the system wont even POST. I click the power button and I can hear the click of the PSU relay, the fans in the system twitch, and the status LEDs on the mobo flash, but otherwise it doesn't turn on at all. The PSU does turn on if I short out the pins on the 24 pin molex connector though, for whatever that's worth.

I thought I got a DOA PSU so I requested a replacement. In the meantime I hooked back up the original 750 WATT PSU and the system works again as it did before.

The second new PSU came in this morning and after hooking it up it acts just like the first one. Won't even POST. It clicks, fans and lights twitch, but nothing more.

Now I'm thinking that it's something else because what are the chances I get 2 DOA PSUs? I assume the only other thing it could be is the mobo.

I removed the RAM, GPU, CPU, SSD, and everything from the mobo and tried powering it with the new PSU with just the 24pin and 8 pin molex connected and it still has the same results. It wouldn't even post or stay on. This is also without any accessories hooked up to the PSU.

So now I'm thinking it's a faulty motherboard but it somehow still works with my Corsair PSU, but only the Corsair PSU? Maybe there is a minor issue with the mobo and EVGA PSUs have better fault detection in them or something?

Anyone have any experience with something like this? Any other ideas on what could be happening? Short of finding another Mobo to try out, I think I've isolated and tested everything I can.

Are any of them modular PSUs?

Are you sharing cables? (Dont if you are)

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



CoolCab posted:

most important thing generally is positive pressure, which means that all intake is filtered. that means you want more intake than exhaust. i went with basically yours but instead the tops intook so 5 intake and 1 exhaust because i was concerned about recirculation and i could put the exhaust pretty far from the top fans. beyond that most configs should be good. keep an eye on which fan header you plug each in if you wanna adjust them in the bios

This.

Dust in your fans / gpu is really annoying, be positive.

Or do 3 in, 2 out.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011




That thing looks absolutely amazing but also super out of stock after a couple of quick searches. I wonder why they decided to stop making them because they seem like a great option for people that don’t want RGB.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



GiantRockFromSpace posted:

So hey, I'm also thinking of upgrading my rid. I got a 1440p monitor last Christmas because I forgot 1080p would look lile poo poo and now my GTX 970 ain't doing so hot.

But since I also have to upgrade more stuff (the CPU could use a boost, need a new PSU, wanna upgrade to a bigger SSD because my hard drive is slow as hell and full) I was looking into getting a whole new PC.

The thing is, would you guys recommend buying any prebuilt ones? I actually have some anxiety problems and also am terribly clumsy so I'm terrified at the idea of building one, but I don't want to have problems with future upgrades.

Budget is actually not a problem: I have a lot saved up and I'm willing to pay a markup for a prebuilt one. I'd go up to 3000€ for a high end rig for 1440p gaming that would last me for a while, so I'd like to know what cards/CPUs to look for.

If budget is not a problem look at like corsair or origin PC or maingear but stay away from HP and Alienware.

https://youtu.be/UnvxSkqJ8ic

Vs

https://youtu.be/MGQbkpNy39o

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

i was the kind of kid who took apart random old electronics for fun and put them back together so i've never really understood the anxiety around building a PC but like... the point is to have a PC to play games/do whatever. if you don't think that building is going to be fun for you and you are willing to deal with price premiums and other antics around prebuilds, don't build a PC!

It is very true that computers are basically adult legos designed to prevent you from doing stupid poo poo that will make it break.

But, there are a lot of weird small things that can go wrong. They don’t tend to actually break the computer but they will prevent the computer from turning on and that could be very frustrating if you can’t really take it to any store because you built it yourself.

You have some techy friends or relatives that know how to build computers though there’s a much lower risk of getting stumped by something.

My very first computer that I built I never plugged in the 4pin CPU power plug because I assumed a giant 24 pin into the motherboard with powered everything on the motherboard and I didn’t see the CPU plug under the cooler. There was about an entire day of me scratching my head before my friend was able to come over, look at the cable coming out of my power supply, and laugh at me.

Very recently I updated the BIOS on my computer and it caused my computer to not be able to see my M.2 drive. I had to end up changing some setting in the bios that I have never heard of before but it really took me a long time on Google to find the correct solution.

Obviously you can post problems on the forum so we can take a crack at it but if you’re the kind of person that just wants to have a company that you can call or send it back to is something that you can pay for.

Just don’t pick Dell holy crap they’re tech-support is torture.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jun 3, 2022

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Dont feel bad, losing a M.2 screw is like a right of passage in PC building.

When I needed one I got one of these because the screws it uses are M.2 and it comes with an extra.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R2JQRDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know they aren't necessary but I think they look nice for $10. :v:

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jun 18, 2022

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



ZombieCrew posted:

Whenever i build a new pc, i just put all the bits into the mobo box. I put that and any other boxes into the case box and stow it in a closet or the attic. Ill hang on to most for a couple years, but the case box comes in handy if i need to transport the pc if im moving or whatever. that one box filled with cables.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Sanctum posted:

new PC is working great. My only complaints are with the assembly and also that drat power button right next to the headphone jack. :psyduck:

You can move the power button :)

https://www.amazon.com/pc-power-button-extension/s?k=pc+power+button+extension

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



change my name posted:

If this is for a living room setup, can you even markedly make out a difference between 4K and 1440P when sitting several feet away?

You can when the TV is 65 inches and only like 6 feet from our couch like it is in our set up.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



oh no computer posted:

I'd also like to know the current general consensus on air cooling vs AIO water cooling before i pull the trigger on my build. i've heard from some people that pump noise isn't really a thing any more so AIO might be roughly the same noise-wise? i know it's a bit more expensive but it seems more efficient than screwing a heatsink the size of a mini cooper to my motherboard.

We have a 280 AIO and a noctua D15 on our rigs with identical CPUs. The AIO does make a noise so if you are into pure silence it will piss you off but it can be quieter with short bursts. AIOs listen to water temps, not CPU temps, so often times my fans AIO fans dont change at all outside of gamming or a stability test.

AIO advantages:
- Better cooling, especially for short bursts that dont heat the radiator water much.
- Fans that dont change speed much even when installing programs.
- Includes fans if you needed to buy more anyway
- makes it safer to transport computer around in a bumpy car
- You can see that dumb glowing ram you want and that motherboard RGB
- Even better cooling if you go 360
- No ram clearance issues
- No case width issues (yes, air coolers can be too tall)

Air cooler advantages
- cost
- idle noise
- doesn't break. AIOs have improved but D15s you can give to your grandkids.
- hides your shameful 2 sticks of none RGB ram and sensible mobo

Protip for air coolers: if you have a gigantic cooler, set your fan delay to like 5-10 seconds in your motherboard. Then your CPU fan wont ramp until its actually hot for a while and it will stop zig zagging the RPMs up and down all the time.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



There aren’t a lot of reasons to play for the Asus Strix tax but if you are super into corsair RGB walled garden ASUS is the only company that works with Corsair.

Not only does the graphics card show up properly in icue letting you synchronize lighting really easily but games that take over your RGB properly take over your entire system including your graphics card which is something I can’t do with my EVGA card.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Dark Knight posted:

Is there a decent RGB program that isn't a subscription service? I don't mind paying a one time fee for a program that can handle all of my dumb lights but screw this SAAS poo poo.

Is that what its like outside the corsair walled garden?

And I thought I was doing the expensive option lol

Sorry that sucks.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Intelligibility posted:

Ok so this is what I´m gonna go with I think:

New components:

8GB INNO3D GeForce RTX 3070 Twin X2 LHR GDDR6 256-bit 3xDP+HDMI - 568€

Corsair 4000D Airflow Midi Tower - 89€

650 Watt Seasonic Focus GX Modular 80+ Gold - 82€

1TB WD Blue SN570 NVMe - 84€


Reused parts:

B450 Tomahawk max + Ryzen 3600 + 2x 8GB DDR4 + 250GB Samsung SSD


Looking ok?

Case only comes with 2 fans. You will want to add a 3rd 120mm in the front and a 120mm in the rear. You mobo does have 4 fan headers.

The fans that come with the case are not PWM: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-4000x-4000d-airflow-review/3

They are the standard voltage controlled fans that have a 1300rpm top end. So you can shop for that or get 4 matching PWM fans and toss the included ones.

IDK if your motherboard can mix and match fan voltage modes.

https://www.cgdirector.com/pwm-dc-system-fans/

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Mr Interweb posted:

so just a general question i've had for a long time: what part of the PC building process seems like the most difficult/tedious? from what i've seen of the many videos researching this topic, it looks like attaching the CPU fans pretty much every single time.

The fan holders for D15 are surprisingly terrible to work with once the cooler is inside the case. I had to make a hook with a paperclip and then pull that with some pliers. You just cant get your hands between the cooler and the top of the case everz

Some other frustrations:

- Closing the back if you didn’t manage cables.
- The front panel connector.
- Finding that screw you dropped.
- The multiple 90 degree bends my thick PSU cables can barley do.
- needing to buy an extension because something is one inch too short.
- cable management + AIOs

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

To be honest, the two fans the case comes with would probably be sufficient. I'd only worry about getting more fans if you're unhappy with the stock performance.

True, but if they want more fans I figured they should know they aren’t pwm if their mobo wants them all in the same mode.

I think a lot of people looking at that case will end up with 3 fans in the front eventually.

If no other reason then OCD haha.

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jul 21, 2022

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Man I feel really bad for anyone trying to mix-and-match RGB it sounds terrible.

When I first got super into RGB at the start of the pandemic I heard that software don’t like playing nice with each other so I just want balls deep into corsair since that’s what my keyboard was.

I don’t spend any amount of time dealing with RGB other than having fun playing with pretty lights.

Not only can I do whatever lighting on any device and have them sync with each other but when I fire up a game like Tiny Tina it takes over all my RGB and goes nuts.

Well all my RGB except my EVGA 3080 TI because apparently only Asus is cool enough to figure out how to get their poo poo to work with corsair.

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spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



DaveSauce posted:

Good, that's what I wanted to hear! I knew the CPU is better at managing itself these days, but even if the risk of damage is lower running in to a performance wall is still bad.

I'll get some better monitoring software, because the various ways I have out of the box are pretty junky... MSI's software is junk and Corsair's (from the screenshots) is also junk. But ultimately I just wanted to make sure I didn't have some more serious issue that I needed to fix before settling in on this thing.

100C is still pretty wild to me, even under a massive CPU load. I can't remember the exact numbers, but back in the day I feel like going past 70 was danger territory. Idle temps were higher than today, for sure, but full load wasn't even close to "boil water" territory.

Used to be installing OS and drivers, because the OS took forever and drivers weren't necessarily easy to find or quick to download.

Last couple builds I'd say... I dunno. Lots of votes for cable routing, but while it takes a bit modern cases make it easy to hide stuff. PATA cables were nearly impossible to make look good and clean. Now I'd probably say mounting the CPU cooler. Getting the thermal paste spread right is kind of a pain, and it's super unnerving to be working around the CPU with giant chunks of metal that need to be tightened down in to the brittle PCB and putting a lot of force against the delicate core.

Still better than the spring loaded heatsinks, though...

I like pasting the cpu though. I take my time and get a nice paper thin layer.

RGB added more wires to every build and the RGB shows wires that used to sort of disappear into the black. Also cases went from just having a window to have an entire side made of glass so you also lost some of the ways you could easily hide wires.

My case (corsair 500D) adds a special challenge to cable management: The back panel is also made of glass and only held shut by weak magnets.

You have to strap everything down hardcore because a single cable resting against the glass will push the door open.

It was a lot of work but it is very satisfying to swing open the glass back panel and not see a single wire move.

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