3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Definitely dig that power supply out and uh...maybe the motors? That's about it.

# ¿ Jul 22, 2021 00:24

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# ¿ May 8, 2024 06:09

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Alright, just bit the bullet and preordered a Voron 0.1 LDO kit from Fabreeko.

Love my Ender 3 V2 for what it is, a starter printer, but there's only so far you can go without throwing money at a cheap design.

Ender gets to stick around for larger prints for now, but the Voron will probably be like 90% of my printing. At some point I want to do a 2.4 for my larger prints, but assuming this LDO kit is as good as they say, I'll order their 2.4 kit whenever it drops.

# ¿ Jul 22, 2021 18:47

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

insta posted:

Fabreeko's great.

Get a 1.8 kit once LDO comes out with that. The 1.8 needs more love.

(also who are you on the discord?)

I think I'm just Bondematt on the Voron Discord.

I'll definitely be looking at the 1.8 vs 2.4 if they do both kits. Hell by the time I get around to it they'll probably be a new versions.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2021 19:43

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Randalor posted:

What's a good, easy to use, free program for 3D modelling? Or at least low-cost if free isn't an option?

Fusion 360 is the go to for free modeling software for 3d printing.

Solidworks is great if you can get a cheap license, but IIRC the student license is now $100?

Bad Munki posted:

There�s something really awesome about saying to yourself, �oh dang, I need another one of these weird custom pieces I made a couple years back� and then you just hop on your printer�s web interface, go to that project�s folder, find the thing, and come back an hour later to retrieve another of the weird custom piece you made a couple years back.

Bonus if you've improved your slicer/tuning and the new one turns out better than the original.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2021 02:53

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Ambrose Burnside posted:

attempting to print my first collapsing core for a metal-casting mold. i'm designing a lil cigarette case as a gift for someone- think an ornate cigar tube sort of deal- and if i cast it as a single cylinder like I want to vs. making two clamshell halves and welding them together, the inside cavity is a challenge- it's a long, narrow tube that's closed at one end, and because the inner diameter is what matters I can't just taper the core, the tube is long enough that a useful amount of draft can't be added.

anyways, collapsing cores! starting simple, just a two-piece assembly here. both should print upright on the bed with no issues

here's how it works- you withdraw the inner core, which is very slightly tapered to facilitate this, and as you do so the 'sleeve' 'petals' can flex inwards, deflecting past modest undercuts of the sort you can't normally locate at the bottom of a deep blind hole when designing a cast part. a smooth tube is pretty easy, threads are pretty easy, i think undercuts up to 10% of the hole diameter are possible with this design. i need to break out the dovetail cores if i wanna do massive 25%+ undercuts or whatever

Good choice on a flared base.

# ¿ Jul 28, 2021 01:31

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Dia de Pikachutos posted:

Because I am a penny-wise and pound foolish, I bought a $2000 lens and designed/printed a tripod gimbal head and flash extender for it.

*Insert that scene from Naked Gun here*

# ¿ Aug 18, 2021 00:02

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Pentecoastal Elites posted:

I had a print once where I watched the first layer go down, played a game for like 3 hours, then when I came back there was nothing on the build plate and the printer was in the parked position.

I couldn't find the thing I printed at all, and thought I was going crazy, like maybe I never started the print?

Found it a week later chucked backwards off the machine and in the gap under a shelf. Looked almost exactly like that, but on like layer 2.

# ¿ Aug 26, 2021 21:50

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

I'm someone who started with and Ender 3 v2 and while I think it is a fantastic printer for its price and would highly recommend it to someone as broke brain as myself, there is no way I would recommend it to someone who just wants to print.

As soon as you get it you already need to go through the connections and trim almost all of them since they come tinned. It's a dead control board waiting to happen at best and a fire hazard at worst. The recommended upgrades to the extruder, springs, & bowden tube/fittings are really required, but since they are only $20 I just consider that part of the price.

I have this thing dialed in now and I just run a bed leveling print every few prints. Prints are beautiful and it's been a long while since I've had a failure.

Fluid Klipper is amazing by the way, and I'm looking into a relay setup so it can turn the printer on at the start and then off at the end of a print, supposedly moonraker has this ability. This works well on a Pi zero W, but for startup speed I'd recommend a Pi 2 or above.

Runs better than OctoPrint did for me, I had a couple failed prints there on both the Pi Z W and the Pi 2 where it just decided it was done halfway through a print.

# ¿ Sep 14, 2021 00:26

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

BMan posted:

so, it turns out you pretty much can't recycle any plastic anywhere

Correct! The recycling symbol is one of the most successfully propaganda programs in recent history. Less than 10% of plastic gets recycled, and now that China no longer buys our plastic waste, that's probably dropping even further. We burn more plastic for fuel than we recycle.

https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/plastics-material-specific-data

# ¿ Nov 2, 2021 03:20

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Cory Parsnipson posted:

well, this is... disheartening... I've almost got a tissue box of scrap PLA prints filled up. What's the least worst option of getting rid of it?

I did a quick search and there's a couple articles about "Project PLA" which is someone's attempt to aggregate people's waste prints and then send huge bundles to industrial recyclers. This sounds like a cool idea. What's the consensus on this?

Trashcan so it goes direct to the landfill and has less of a chance of ending up in the ocean. AFAIK Project PLA is already dead.

PLA is better for the environment than most plastics since it's made from corn and not petroleum, but other than that, it's just another plastic that can't realistically be recycled.

If you want you can hold onto it for a few years and see if another Project PLA kicks off, but I don't see that happening in a sustainable way considering the environmental cost of shipping a crate of plastic.

This Maker's Muse video is extremely timely:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCsnVp6mEbk

# ¿ Nov 2, 2021 07:18

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Man, i don't know what happened, but PLA will no longer stick to my EZMAT surface.

I thought my bed was bowing since it was always in the same spots, but flipping over the plate it grips just fine to the textured PEI I had on the other side.

Just tried a light sanding so we'll see I'd that does it. Cleaned the heck out of it with IPA for no change.

# ¿ Nov 19, 2021 21:30

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

Sounds like it's a dented bed.

It's an Ender 3, all the beds are dented, even the glass ones.

Source: Neither the aluminum plate or glass plate are flat on my Ender 3 V2. At first I just dialed it in so the filament wasn't happy anywhere and let it rip. I ended up going over it with a straightedge and flashlight and put down tape on my magnet bed to try and even it out a bit, which helped a ton.

Edit: Actually looking at it, the glass sheet is flat, but it just conforms to the aluminum bed. You should just be able to shim under the glass or under the older style bed if you have that. Masking tape works great, some people recommend aluminum foil, but I haven't had any uneven heat issues.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Nov 30, 2021

# ¿ Nov 30, 2021 06:59

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Roundboy posted:

I can shim my bed to save 2-3x the printer cost, or buy.a pei sheet for $8

You still need to shim with a PEI sheet. It's the aluminum plate that sucks on the Ender and all cheap printers.

# ¿ Nov 30, 2021 22:58

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

AlexDeGruven posted:

I think it's a bit overblown how bad they are stock. I just slapped the magnetic sheet on mine and the center is spot on with the corners.

It's hit or miss. Some people get perfectly flat beds right out of the gate, when mine is out enough that a large print will show signs of too high on the edges and too low in the middle.

Edit: to be clear, it's printable, but not if you need a good bottom layer surface.

# ¿ Nov 30, 2021 23:36

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

This is good, right? You want your variance to be larger than your layer height?

I knew it was bad just from print failures, but good lord.

# ¿ Dec 8, 2021 09:26

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Roundboy posted:

did you screws_tilt_calibrate ? hot bed for a while ?

even with that I have a .18 variance at the probe points, but im not chasing the 0.02 adjustment that is left with the screws (but i did)
There is a bit of a debate on if you need to save the mesh after its generated, or if klipper will use the one saved to default. OR, is it using the one in default when it first started, and your nw default needs to be saved / klipper restarted for it to pick it up.

I currently have no G29 in my start gcode, as i just can quickly hit the button before a fresh print day, i dont need it back to back prints. Fluiddpi is better in this regard.

Yeah this was before I did anything but manually level before calibrating. Bed had just got to temp and this checks out with how it felt papering under the nozzle around the bed.

After a round of tape I'm down to .17, a few super low points I'm going to hit and just call it good.

It seems to use the last mesh automatically, cause my first bed print test after a restart was pretty decent except in the most insane corner.

# ¿ Dec 8, 2021 18:08

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Here4DaGangBang posted:

Look at this moron putting this poo poo up for uninformed people to see and think wow aerosolising UV resin with no PPE gives amazing results!

https://youtu.be/OziH3Y2ySNo

He was deleting comments from anyone pointing out how dangerous this is, and now has that single comment on the video which is is pretty laughable and does not in any way convey the danger of what he’s showing in the vid.

Uuuuuhhhhh.

UUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHH.

What's the best way to report the video? Dangerous/harmful?

Someone's gonna get all the cancer from doing that BS, and its not going to be that jackass.

# ¿ Dec 9, 2021 08:21

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Scarodactyl posted:

Well of course he's in for a bad time if he does it 'too much,' that's what 'too much' means!

Lots of things can really wreck you without appropriate ppe. Woodworkers can develop wood allergies, silica dust can permanently ruin your lungs, etc etc. And those don't have some of resin's special properties.

Wood dust will also wreck your lungs. Especially when you neglect wearing a facemask cause you picked up a bag filter, which just happens to not filter out the part of wood that does the most permanent damage, and instead pumps the room full of it.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Dec 10, 2021

# ¿ Dec 10, 2021 07:42

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Anyone had a hands on with the Ender 3 S1 yet?

It looks like it has a lot of the upgrades commonly done to and Ender 3 for under $400, but knowing creality you'll need to replace half of it anyway.

# ¿ Dec 17, 2021 19:17

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

NewFatMike posted:

The person in charge of 3D printers at my Maker space would buy Prusa printers, but knockoff parts from AliExpress for maintenance. Regardless of the quality of parts, any kind of replacement would have a printer down for months as we waited for the slow boat to deliver instead of buying from Prusa.

Extremely huge brain on that one.

The funniest part is those knockoff parts are all available with prime shipping for like 20-40% more on Amazon.

# ¿ Dec 27, 2021 19:51

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Man, is there anyway to draw z seam in a straight line on Prusaslicer?

Tried using the cutaway feature, but still comes out like I am currently having a stronk.

# ¿ Feb 4, 2022 21:40

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

I found myself losing steps on my ender 3 v2 z-axis without any sound, just basically the nozzle was getting lower on each layer so I was getting some smush. This was really obvious on a 45* angle as it almost looked like it was curving which I thought was heat sag at first, but none of the layers curved down, they were just thinner and squished. I went through the normal steps to make sure it isn't binding, and I can easily move the X gantry up/down by hand with the stepper off, and I cannot turn the threaded rod/coupler without overcoming the Z stepper. However during that I noticed the Z-stepper is incredibly easy to turn while it is 'locked' and only makes a mild clicking sound. I checked the voltage which was at 1.18 and I upped it to 1.23 with no change.

Is this a dead stepper, or should I be looking at something else here? Should I be able to rather easily overcome the Z-stepper by just finger gripping the threaded rod?

If I turn on Z-hop it can't even get through the first layer.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Feb 11, 2022

# ¿ Feb 11, 2022 10:12

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

snail posted:

If the stepper is powered, no. It could be partially powered which could produce the two effects you mentioned, but the cause could be many things. The stepper is usually easy enough to replace if you have spares, and at least would confirm the stepper.

Yeah, I read to try using the X or Y axis driver and wiring to rule out a driver/cabling issue. I'm also going to try and turn the other steppers by hand while powered just to see how different they feel/sound too.

I think it's just weak enough that the gantry doesn't go up as far as it thinks it's lifting it. Hoping it's just a stepper or something easy to replace. I do not want to put :10bux:

into an Ender 3 by having to replace the board.

My Prusa XL can't get released fast enough, and ironically I'm trying to print my V0.1 parts while it's doing this. It knows

# ¿ Feb 12, 2022 00:15

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Is there a way to change the...aggressiveness of a mesh?

It does follow the mesh, but it also seems like it is damped or limited? Where the left low side the nozzle is too high, and the right high side is too low. It's enough that the left side will lift off, and the right size is smushed just a smidge too much.

If I turn the mesh off it can't even print on the right side, and the left it's just dropping strings, so i know the mesh is doing something. Z offset is being set at the center of the bed.

This is using Fluid klipper, and my settings are just the basics:

code:

[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PB1
#sensor_pin: PA7
control_pin: PB0
x_offset: -55 #Change offset to match your printer
y_offset: -13 #Change offset to match your printer
z_offset: 2.7 #Change offset to match your printer. Positive is closer to bed, negative is further from bed.
stow_on_each_sample: False  
probe_with_touch_mode: True
pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False

[bed_mesh]
speed: 120
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 35, 35 #Change coordinates to match your printer
mesh_max: 195, 195 #Change coordinates to match your printer
probe_count:24,24 #Change number of X,Y probe points
algorithm: bicubic
fade_start: 2
fade_end: 10
fade_target: 0

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Mar 2, 2022

# ¿ Mar 2, 2022 03:15

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Roundboy posted:

Play with where the probe is hitting. it looks like the bed is starting to go down, but the mesh is interpreting that as a huge cliff. Make sure your hit closer to the right side with your actual probing.

That's the fun part, there is a cliff. It's like a solid 0.2mm drop there over like half an inch, maybe less? I just don't print on the right side of the bed ever.

I have the same issue if I exclude that side completely and limit the bed to like 165mm on the X axis. The cliff starts around 180-185

Realized I forgot the bed mesh settings itself:

code:

[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PB1
#sensor_pin: PA7
control_pin: PB0
x_offset: -55 #Change offset to match your printer
y_offset: -13 #Change offset to match your printer
z_offset: 2.7 #Change offset to match your printer. Positive is closer to bed, negative is further from bed.
stow_on_each_sample: False  
probe_with_touch_mode: True
pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False

[bed_mesh]
speed: 120
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 35, 35 #Change coordinates to match your printer
mesh_max: 195, 195 #Change coordinates to match your printer
probe_count:24,24 #Change number of X,Y probe points
algorithm: bicubic
fade_start: 2
fade_end: 10
fade_target: 0

Edit: Would excluding that cliff help? I literally can't print there ever anyway.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Mar 2, 2022

# ¿ Mar 2, 2022 03:23

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Talorat posted:

Is there a way to get prusa slicer to print objects one at a time in sequence instead of layer by layer for the whole set? I have a couple of rolls that are nearly dead that I want to finish off.

You sure can, look for sequential printing in the settings or on their wiki.

# ¿ Mar 7, 2022 19:21

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Made some little bench dogs and decided to break one. I was really amazed how strong they were. I think I remember reading here or somewhere else that wall thickness is more important than infill for strength? I think I made these a 2mm wall thickness.

Neat, what plastic are you using?

If you need more strength you can also print the dog in vertical halves and glue or screw them together. The layer line at the hole is going to be a weak point printing it standing up, but it's probably already strong enough anyway.

# ¿ Mar 20, 2022 03:56

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Sagebrush posted:

the gently caress is that brim

It took Brim setting of yes literally

# ¿ Apr 6, 2022 19:30

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

ilkhan posted:

Thread seems to like prusa, is there a consensus on the ender 3 S1 pro?

Initial impressions I've seen on the S1 is its an ender 3 with most of the fixes people would want to make already included.

No idea on longevity or if they took any shortcuts there, but I haven't see any reviews slapping it down yet.

# ¿ Apr 8, 2022 00:09

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Combat Pretzel posted:

So JayzTwoCents showed up on my Youtube frontpage, something about getting a printer.

Turns out it's a LulzBot Workhorse. Some bog standard bed slinger, partially made of 3D printed parts, running 8-bit Marlin, still the loud as gently caress A4988 and it seems generally slow out of the box.

Then I looked it up, it sells for nearly 3000 bux.

lolwat

More like LolLmaoBot

# ¿ Apr 11, 2022 19:35

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

RabbitWizard posted:

I want to reduce fan noise on my Ender3 and think I'm going with buck converters and 12V fans (except if someone can recommend a better way). What I haven't figured out yet is the cooling fan. The speed is variable, is that done in a way that will work with any buck converter? Or does the converter need to be special in any way to do that?

Best to get queiter 24v fans for part cooling. As Hadlock mentioned above you cannot use a buck converter on a PWM line.

I printed a hero me gen 5 and used dual blowers that can run super slow and still waaaaay outclass the 4010(?) the printer came with

# ¿ Apr 15, 2022 18:37

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

LochNessMonster posted:

Is eSun PLA+ a decent brand?

I can vouch for eSun as their ABS+ is great

# ¿ May 22, 2022 17:54

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

BMan posted:

This is the most boomer poo poo.

"Just pour it into the ground, whoever owns this place next can deal with it!"

# ¿ May 24, 2022 19:40

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

ToxicFrog posted:

A Pi4B 8GB is massive overkill; it'll run on any Pi4 or Pi3 model, and while the Pi2 isn't officially supported I've had excellent results with it.

Seconding that Klipper runs great on a Pi 2 despite not officially being supported. The server takes longer to boot, but otherwise it's as snappy as my Pi 4 was.

It worked fine on a Pi Zero W(original) as well, but definitely was slower and it was pushing it with the boot time. It works in a pinch but I wouldn't recommend it.

# ¿ May 25, 2022 19:21

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

ToxicFrog posted:

I was talking about Octoprint, not Klipper, but it's good to know that Klipper works on it too!

Sorry, I work in insurance so I can't read!

For what it's worth I did run octoprint on the same Pi Z W for a while too before i switched to Klipper, it worked fine but I couldn't do a Webcam and it was not responsive.

# ¿ May 25, 2022 20:00

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Combat Pretzel posted:

You assume upper management doesn't know about it already. Also, unless you can pinpoint it to specific people, to have someone to blame, nothing's gonna happen.

https://echo.epa.gov/report-environmental-violations

Your state or city probably has a reporting system as well especially if this is going into their water treatment facility. Finding the right one can be a pain, but if the dumping is enough that you need a few days for your water to pass, yeah they are gonna be very happy to know about it. Some offer bounties for reporting a violation that sticks.

# ¿ Jun 9, 2022 03:41

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Nerobro posted:

First, anyone who went to MRRF: https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1541484671682461700?s=20&t=ntyw-kbRbO_F5QRWgnwqHg

Yeah, that pandemic.. it ain't over.

LMAO I'm like 90% sure he or someone he spoke to made a joke about it on his live stream from there. Might have just been a mask joke.

# ¿ Jun 27, 2022 22:15

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Marshal Prolapse posted:

Ender 3 was too drat loud and slow. It did work, but eh I’m just getting a V2 or something more upgraded.

Also the clerks at micro center looked at me like I was a nut for saying I use glue on my bed…I though that was normal?

They also said the auto levelers didn’t really work well and you’d still need to do regular manual adjustments…sigh is that true?

V2 is so much quieter that you realize how drat loud the fans are.

Glue Stick is still widely used, but less so with PEI and other surfaces on magnetic plates being the norm.

Auto bed leveler sensors work fantastic and I just do a "screw level" which just hits the 4 points over the screws and tells you how far to move them. This is just to undo any screw wander from when you originally measured the Mesh. I rarely do it and the most it's been out is like 1/8 of a turn, which doesn't matter at all. I can't speak for other systems, but this is with Fluidd Klipper on an ender 3 with a knockoff triangle labs ABL.

# ¿ Jul 6, 2022 02:05

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

You know what's a fun issue to diagnose? Intermittent extruder problems.

Anyway, my hot end is squeaky clean now both inside and out and I have a set of non-worn out extruder gears on it's way.

# ¿ Jul 14, 2022 03:29

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# ¿ May 8, 2024 06:09

Bondematt: Jan 26, 2007; Not too stupid

Just slap a few diodes on there until the voltage drop is right.

(Please don't do this. Or do but take pictures)

# ¿ Jul 27, 2022 01:11

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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