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I haven't used it but it looks like Meshlab might be a good alternative.
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Jul 20, 2021 11:08
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The main one is a paid employee, I dunno about any others.
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Jul 20, 2021 18:10
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Kalman posted:I am. It works fine, but I wouldn’t bother with it if I was setting things up again. Same and agreed.
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Aug 16, 2021 01:09
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Rexxed posted:I'd wait for more goons to answer since I don't use this, but I believe you want spring steel with a PEI coating, and you'll need the magnetic base on your bed to make it adhere unless your printer already has one (it probably doesn't). The Ender 3 is 235mm. Those options are for sale on that page but down at the bottom for $26.99. Basically there's an adhesive magnet sheet that you put on the bed, then you put the spring steel on top of it and the magnet holds it in place. Get PEI coated because that adds the sticking when its hot and releasing when it's cool feature, otherwise I don't know what you'd need to do to print onto spring steel. You don't actually need the magnet, it just makes things easier. You can totally just clip the spring steel plate to your printer, it just means that you have to do more work to remove the plate to flex things off.
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Aug 22, 2021 18:38
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Acid Reflux posted:Just ran across this on Facebook - Thanks for the heads up. I needed to get some more and that's way cheaper than anything I could find elsewhere.
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Aug 23, 2021 12:37
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As long as the room it's in isn't particularly humid you can leave PLA out for months pretty safely. Other materials are a lot more hygroscopic and need more care in storage, but PLA is really forgiving. I say this as someone who has left his PLA out for months with no ill effects.
senrath fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 02:42
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insta posted:FYI, the filament doesn't randomly tangle. You did that. On the other hand, it's a rite of passage that everyone goes through. The free filament that comes with the Ender 3 is, as they already noted, a loose coil. There's no spool and it will easily tangle itself.
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Aug 30, 2021 05:52
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I mean, a print from a properly dialed in Ender and a properly dialed in Prusa using the same settings should look the pretty much the same. The difference is entirely in how much effort it takes to get to that point.
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Sep 4, 2021 08:45
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I wouldn't hold my breath for things getting much bigger than the current-gen Big Boys, or at least not for a hobbyist-friendly implementation. DLP x/y form-factors are unique in being a direct reflection of, and tightly constrained by, the mass-production of ultrahigh-DPI displays for phones, and I just don't see larger screen form-factors becoming popular enough in consumer electronics to bring that sweet sweet economy of scale hobbyists crave. I know this has changed a fair bit in the past year or two and manufacturers aren't at the same mercy of phone hardware selection as they were when the first crop of really mature hobbyist DLP printers were being designed, but i don't think the underlying dynamic of "shockingly-cheap phone displays are effectively subsidizing hobbyist resin printers" has changed significantly. You're confusing DLP with LCD. DLP printers use projectors, not phone screens.
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Sep 15, 2021 03:04
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Wanderless posted:I can only guess that he's one of the youtube DIY crew that 95% of their content is starting a project, doing absolutely no background research, and recording the failures as entertainment? Not no research but nowhere near enough, yeah. He's also super into rocketry stuff so if it's not specifically in that wheelhouse he's not great with it. He's also not great with rocketry but the explosions are accompanied by more background knowledge.
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Oct 16, 2021 08:14
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Question: Has anyone printed anything meant to contain food? I know PETG is food-safe, I was thinking I could possibly print some PETG "tupperware" containers with TPU lids because I'm tired of buying cheap food containers and having the lid break within two uses but I'm not sure if it's possible to do with FDM without having food particles get stuck in pores of the plastic. My understanding is that you'd have to use something else to seal the print otherwise, yes, food particles would get stuck in the layer lines and cause nasty things to grow.
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Nov 28, 2021 03:57
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Weird, I found it on a Reddit post dated 7 days ago. Google's wrong, that thread is 15 hours old if you actually click through.
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Apr 2, 2022 13:30
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w00tmonger posted:I think it largely depends on what you want to do. That's my understanding as well. Programs like Blender or Zbrush (no comment on either since I haven't personally used them) are better for things like miniatures, but are terrible if you want to design a functional part.
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Jul 18, 2022 17:23
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Nerobro posted:I'd love to know the thread you intended this to be in. This thread, it's about the mod challenge.
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Aug 10, 2022 06:19
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Bondematt posted:Edit: I should have checked the slicer first...for whatever reason I thought Prusaslicer automatically tells you of updates. It does, but only once they've cleared RC and been fully released.
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Aug 20, 2022 09:17
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mattfl posted:So I started blasting, with a custom Gecko nerf blaster Nice. 3D printed nerf blasters are something I've wanted to do for a while now. Which is why I'm currently in the process of printing a Caliburn 4 as the first actually large thing I've used my printer for.
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Aug 25, 2022 01:26
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Ygolonac posted:I may be a 3D printing n00b, but I put in a few years running injection-mold machines at a plastics plant, and can affirm, Delrin is a bastard. The techs had to purge the barrel of material every time the machine was stopped for more than a few minutes, because it would degrade and produce (what they claimed was) formaldehyde gas. Oh, yeah, the stuff really likes to degrade back into the formaldehyde used to make it. Here's a couple papers talking about issues this can cause: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15821686/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7903538/
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Aug 25, 2022 18:00
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I will purchase another filament. Is PLA+ drastically different than PLA? It's a kind of catch all term for PLA with additives, so its properties vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, even more than standard material differences since there's no agreed upon "this is the base formula" type thing. Usually it's just better than PLA, but sometimes there are some tradeoffs involved in the actual printing (usually requires slightly higher than PLA temps, some don't adhere to certain bed types as well, etc.).
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Aug 29, 2022 04:23
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It's not the same, but I'm considering building a ZINC 2.0 after I get the parts in for my Caliburn 4 and get that together.
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Aug 29, 2022 15:27
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mattfl posted:You guys trust your printers enough not to at least watch that first layer go down??? No, I just have a webcam connected to octoprint so I can watch it without having to physically go to it.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:20
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Yes, resin is still the go to for miniatures. And yes, you do NOT want it anywhere near you. Resin itself is pretty toxic stuff and the fumes are nothing you want to breathe. Make sure it's in a well ventilated area and preferably filtered too.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:37
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ToxicFrog posted:What does this do that just pressing the power button doesn't? The cheap ones will turn back on if you so much as bump them, so this blocks the connection so it can't do that.
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Sep 2, 2022 16:38
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Deviant posted:what camera/mount combo do people use for their mk3s octoprint setups? I have some kind of cheap webcam that I don't remember the brand of right now and a desk clamp with a bendy arm.
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Sep 9, 2022 22:14
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IncredibleIgloo posted:For resin 3d printing, what makes a resin "Hard to print"? I was looking for specific settings for elegoo 8k resin on a Saturn 2 and a few of the reddit threads that turned up were talking about how it is a hard resin to print. Does that mean that the resin is just, for some reason, more prone to failure? I can't speak for this instance, but I would imagine how temperature stable a resin is would definitely impact how hard a resin is to print with, especially if you're set up in a garage or other non-climate controlled space. Listerine posted:I used Simplify3D for several years but it seems to be pretty dead now, I don't think there's been an update since I last used it. Prusa Slicer is good
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Sep 23, 2022 03:11
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SubNat posted:Is the metal/red metal dual gear extrusion upgrade worth it for Creality extruders? Yes, you want to swap out the plastic one for an all metal one. The plastic one has a tendency to crack over time and utterly fail to do its job, the metal ones are pretty cheap and well worth getting.
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Jan 18, 2023 19:01
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I've found that plastic razor scrapers are very good at getting stuff off of build plates without damaging the plate or your nails.
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Feb 1, 2023 07:08
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snail posted:Do you have a URL for this? I can't seem to apply the right Google-fu to find it. I'm guessing it's this.
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Feb 2, 2023 06:26
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Sagebrush posted:all of this is deleted. how do people still not know that you have to screenshot controversial tweets? ffs It was deleted because the guy was informed that he was wrong. https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1645545036421931008
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Apr 11, 2023 05:23
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deimos posted:Is the venom part the only multi material print? Or did you purge half the roll for the eye sockets? Each color was a separate print and later assembled. The link has a gallery of in-progress shots.
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Sep 3, 2023 22:37
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Listerine posted:Thanks, I'll keep it at 50 then. Pretty much. Silica is great to help ensure that your filament never picks up water in the first place, but you're never going to be able to pull appreciable amounts of moisture out of a filament without heating it.
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Mar 12, 2024 01:10
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