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Ugh. My Prusa MK3S+ sat for about 3 months and is now giving me fits. I'm trying to print some fairly simple brackets and it's making me want to pull my hair out. The thing printed great the last time I used it, and is generally stock on the parts that matter, aside from a Nozzle X with a hot end sock. -Random layer shifts along the Y axis. -Somehow, the infill pattern will shift about 1-2mm along the Y axis, but the perimeters are fine. It'll do this consistently enough that this feels different from a typical layer shift where everything moves the same way. -To remove some variables, I tried to print a Benchy from SD card. I got similar layer shifting issues on the first half, then the extruder started slipping on the filament to the point it wasn't feeding anything and the print completely failed. I've never had either the layer shifting or extruder slipping problems before. My first thought is to adjust the tension on both slightly, but I'm looking for some other ideas if anyone has thoughts.
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Aug 13, 2021 19:36
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Alright, I've been picking at it some and have some updates below. First, to reply to questions/comments:Ghostnuke posted:just the first thing that popped into mind, but how was your filament stored for 3 months? In a sealed box with desiccant, humidity in there is <20%. The filament seems to be filamenting well enough, when it prints straight it looks good. Scarodactyl posted:I got random layer shifting back and forth because my hot end was a little loose. It could only move in one axis and only when nudged so it was very inconsistent. Might be worth checking. I'll need to check this, I may have jacked it up with the aforementioned nozzle upgrade. biracial bear for uncut posted:First thing to check is the filament. I think the filament is good, see above. Rods and bearings seem to be good and are well lubricated. They might be due for a good cleaning though. I'm suspecting hotend issues. mewse posted:I had to loctite the grub screw on the Y-axis belt pulley when that happened to me. Pre-built Prusa MK2S I'll probably give that a shot, not a bad idea to make sure it doesn't move.. Alright, update time: Initial efforts are focused on the hotend. I pulled out my trusty roll of nylon and did some cold pulls to make sure the nozzle wasn't clogged (first thought for why the extruder would bind up). It came out pretty clean. I did notice that when I opened up the door to open/expose the extruder gears that the screw was not as tight as I remember it being. I didn't see the expected black shavings of PLA from the extruder eating away at the filament, rather there are very fine metal shavings. Looks like the gears were slipping rather than the filament, hopefully this didn't cause permanent damage. I put it back together making sure to tighten up the extruder gear door and started a Benchy just to see what it would do. Fed fine for the first 2 layers, but I'm still having that infill offset issue. In hindsight, I should probably do the cold pulls again to pull out any errant metal shavings. This thing is currently in an enclosure in a hot garage in Houston (basically Satan's rear end in a top hat hot), tonight I'm planning on pulling it from the enclosure and bringing it inside to blow out metal shavings, assess hotend tightness, and check Y axis belt tightness. Wish me luck.
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Aug 13, 2021 22:18
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Doctor Zero posted:Do you have it in silent mode? That shuts off crash detection. Come to think of it, it is on silent mode. I’ll turn it off for troubleshooting.
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Aug 13, 2021 23:01
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my turn in the barrel posted:Recommended first model to print to test it out? Basically, your first test print should probably be a Benchy (the boat test print), if that turns out good then you’re off to the races. Browse Thingiverse for cool things that people have already made to get a feel for how to print different stuff, then you can branch out into using CAD programs to design your own stuff. This hobby can really be as involved/complicated as you want it to be.
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Aug 14, 2021 01:03
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Update: checking over the hotend and found problem #1: extruder gear has worked its way loose from the extruder motor shaft. That explains the blobs I’ve been getting… Tightening it down for now with a mental note to grab some loctite in the future. Self tests don’t show any problems with the Y axis, and belt tension feels good. Cold pulls to remove potential metal shavings next, then check heater block tightness. Edit: I just discovered 2 things: 1. The Y axis pulley had worked itself loose just like the extruder gear. 2. I had a fresh, unopened tube of blue loctite in the garage. Loctite your poo poo, folks. smax fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 02:23
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smax posted:Update: checking over the hotend and found problem #1: extruder gear has worked its way loose from the extruder motor shaft. That explains the blobs I’ve been getting… Printed a Benchy, looked great until it exploded trying to do the bridges on the cabin of the boat. That’s a new one. It’s happily printing the brackets I was originally trying to make now, I’ll have to dig up a bridging test file at some point.
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Aug 14, 2021 17:14
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becoming posted:I loved putting it together though and am glad that I chose that path. Agreed- I’m a bit of a tinkerer (most of us probably are) so I had fun building mine, but IMO the biggest benefit is knowing how the thing goes together when something gets slightly out of whack or you want to upgrade it.
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Sep 13, 2021 23:13
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For the initial print, stick with the pre-loaded things on the SD card. Go ahead and download the Prusa Slicer driver/software package though, you’ll need it. Edit: drat, thought I was on the last page.
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Sep 21, 2021 16:49
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Talorat posted:So I got a camera working with OctoPrint! Super easy! Only problem, I never leave the lights on in the room where my printer is when I'm not in there. Has anyone attached a little LED bulb to the camera arm or something to let you see the print progress? I got a super cheap strip of USB-powered adhesive LEDs for TV bias lighting and ran them along the inside of my enclosure. Cheap and works great. smax fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Oct 7, 2021 |
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Oct 7, 2021 22:22
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Flush cutters and and Xacto knife to clean it up.
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Nov 2, 2021 00:51
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FYI, Prusa's running a free shipping deal for orders over $200. I just put in an order for a satin sheet, some Prusament PETG in fun colors, a roll od PC blend, and a few nozzles to round out a $202 order. Not cheap, but it'll be nice to have the best sheet and some actual high quality filaments.
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Nov 27, 2021 02:09
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The odd things you do for your hobbies. I pulled a big paver out of my back yard, washed it off, dried it in my oven for a few hours, and am now painting it with plastidip. The wife looked at me funny on this one. Almost done setting up my enclosure the way I want it. Just need to paint the other side, stick some feet on it, throw it under my printer, and set up the camera for my raspi that’s in there.
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Dec 2, 2021 19:14
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Deviant posted:i mean a new paver is like $4 at home depot I’m doing landscaping out there and was pulling it out anyway. It was one less to stack and haul across the yard.
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Dec 2, 2021 20:07
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Got a box from the Czech Republic! I grabbed some stuff to take advantage of the free shipping on $200+ deal a couple weeks ago. Satin textured sheet, a few rolls of Prusament PETG and a roll of black Prusament PC blend, and a handful of different nozzle sizes to play with. Not like I have any free time anymore, but this should keep me tinkering for a while. Any ideas for good uses for the PC blend? The stuff is pricey so I don't exactly want to waste it, but the high strength should be useful for some projects.
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Dec 16, 2021 03:24
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Wang Commander posted:I'm just interested in how the PC blend actually prints Benchy will be the first thing, I'm curious too. Admittedly, I've been having print quality problems lately so I'm still working some things out using cheap filament, but I think I had an epiphany today. Pretty sure my enclosure has been holding in too much heat, leading to curling edges hitting the hotend and causing general mayhem. I've been printing a giant articulated slug with the front flap of the enclosure open all day today, opening it up seems to have done the trick for now. Edit: Might have to destructively test the Benchy too, just to see what it can take...
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Dec 16, 2021 03:34
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Bad Munki posted:GIANT FRIENDLY SLUG TEAM GO This one's going into a white elephant exchange tomorrow. Next one's going to be in Prusament Transparent Ultramarine Blue, and I'm going to angle it to get the most out of the print bed possible. I think I can make one about 10.5" or a little bigger.
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Dec 16, 2021 03:38
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Bad Munki posted:Are you using the “enlarged curled” model? If you’re using the original straight one, consider the curled one instead, might allow you to go even bigger! I thought it might be possible to do something like that with this model. The kiddo really wants one now, so I might go ahead and go all out for the next one.
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Dec 16, 2021 04:04
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Soooon. Wasn't sure on the color choice at first, but I kinda like it.
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Dec 16, 2021 04:22
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Roundboy posted:115% takes 4! days and took like 20 min to slice. The most strenuous thing I've put this shiny new M1 Max Macbook Pro through has been slicing. It's so much faster than the older mac mini I usually use. I might need to break out the 0.6mm nozzle for the next big guy.
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Dec 16, 2021 04:51
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The slug was a hit at the white elephant exchange. Now I’m making 3 more for coworkers.
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Dec 17, 2021 01:44
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Today I decided to crack open the spool of Prusa Orange PETG Prusament and print out some parts/mods for my printer today. It’s amazing how well actual high quality filament prints, I’m used to printing older cheap filaments. Next up: transparent ultramarine blue slug?
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Dec 21, 2021 18:05
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Octopi is just one of those nice-to-have things, bonus points for another excuse to tinker. If you have a spare Pi laying around I say go for it. I find it useful, personally. No more jockeying SD cards around, and no more scrolling though tiny menus to find the one file you want to print from file name alone. Bonus points for remote monitoring - I have a camera set up on mine, along with the VPN set up on my network I can take a peek whenever and wherever.
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Dec 23, 2021 17:50
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Ghostnuke posted:tried cold pulls on this last one, no good. started back up 100% after I changed it. What kind of filament are you printing, and what size nozzles?
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Dec 28, 2021 03:38
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Just ordered a spool of silk fast change rainbow PLA to make the biggest slug I can. 140% curled slug. 880g filament. 4 days 3 hours. Strap yourselves in. If this thing explodes more than a few hours in, I won’t have enough filament to try it again.
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Jan 4, 2022 21:43
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withak posted:Technically what the printer should be doing is filling the entire print volume with infill and leaving an opening in the shape of the model at the center. Clearly the uploader intended you to print it this way, drill a small hole, and cast the model with plaster or something.
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Jan 5, 2022 05:35
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Talorat posted:Is the benefit of printer enclosures just the temperature control? Temperature control, less drafts (so temperature stability control), and controlling fumes. It also keeps dust, pets, and kids at bay.
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Jan 5, 2022 23:38
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Vaporware posted:Yeah, prusaslicer. Just using hatchbox PETG, not terrible stuff but it's oozy and it sure would be nice to not have so much stringing. I didn't have as much stringing with the Prusa filament, so I wanted to dial in the filament settings for lower grade PETG, but not sure how to do that. Might be a dumb question, but just want to be sure- are you manually going in and modifying gcode to actually do the temp tower right (changing temperatures as it should)? If you are just taking a temp tower STL and throwing it into PrusaSlicer on default settings, it won’t be a true temp tower. Entirely possible your did this, but based on some things you’ve said it seemed like it might not be the case. If this is what you’re doing, go to the Prusa website and look for a pre-sliced file for your specific printer and material.
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Jan 7, 2022 05:07
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18 hours in: So far, so good. The no-name filament I got seems to be holding up pretty well and looks good, and has handled the steepest overhangs like a champ so far. I didn't even do a test print or anything. Should end up around 13" long I think?
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Jan 9, 2022 17:52
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140% curled slug is done! Printed nicely. The thing weighs 2 pounds and measures about 16” long. 
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Jan 14, 2022 01:35
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i own every Bionicle posted:That thing owns, I wonder how big I can print one on my 5 plus. Set aside a good amount of time. This one took like 4 days 2 hours to do, using default Prusa PLA settings for 0.2mm layer (detail) setting.
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Jan 14, 2022 03:19
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Bucnasti posted:What's the best way to get remnants of a 3d print (the skirt and supports) off of the build plate on and FDM printer using PLA? Just keep scraping it? Sandpaper? Solvents? My go-to right now: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Warner-3-Pack-6-in-Putty-Knife/3959157 Not sure about the linked ones in particular, but plastic putty knives are cheap and they can have a very thin edge to get under your prints.
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Jan 17, 2022 19:49
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I’m having some issues with Octoprint and a Prusa MK3S+. I have a Pi 3B+ set up in a case mounted to the printer, and a USB connection to the MK3S+ mainboard. The whole thing is in a SainSmart enclosure in my garage in Texas (which is currently hotter than hell), the Pi typically runs warm but not dangerously hot (like 60-65 C max?). I now have a Pi Zero 2 W that I’m going to try to get installed directly on my mainboard, but before I dive in to that I want to better understand the issues I’m having now. I’m getting 2 symptoms of what I think is a dying or overheated Pi, but I wanted to see if anyone else has seen this before. I’m hoping it’s just a flaky Pi and not a symptom of an overheating or dying Einsy board. -Undervoltage warnings regardless of power supply. I’ve tried a few, including an Adafruit Pi 3 wall charger and other heavy gauge USB cables plugged into different USB chargers. -Failure to communicate over the USB bus, the Pi cannot connect to the Prusa, citing communication issues (failure to auto detect printer). When attempting to connect the Prusa does restart, which is an expected behavior as far as I know. This weekend I pulled the whole thing inside and it behaved just fine with no issues, happily connecting and printing via Octoprint. I put it back outside and I’m suddenly having connection issues again (though no under voltage issues yet). We are in a bad heat wave, but this exact setup has printed happily in a hot garage for a while now. I guess my direct question is: are USB connection issues like this known problems associated with a hot Pi or a hot Einsy board? Is a direct serial connection more stable in this regard?
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Jul 18, 2022 16:26
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mewse posted:Do you have any cooling on the pi at all? Currently no, just a passive heat sink. Thinking about robbing the 30mm fan off of my 4B that isn’t getting much use, but I can’t find a good case that would allow using it on the 3B. The pi zero setup I’d be using would expose the CPU heat sink for some better cooling and would also have less heat generation, so I’m hoping it’d be able to deal with the heat a bit better.
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Jul 19, 2022 01:01
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Toebone posted:Nozzle clog 30 hours into a print I feel ya. I’m trying to print another giant (16”) rainbow silk slug and am have I g nothing but issues. 96 hour print, 900g of filament. 5 hours in the first attempt, nozzle clog. Second attempt I was printing from SD card, but I think the Pi I have plugged in power cycled, which reset the printer about 10 hours in. Third attempt immediately clogged the nozzle, and the extruder chewed up the filament enough to break off in the hotend, so now I’ll need to tear some stuff apart to free things up. At this point, I don’t even think I have enough filament on the spool to finish the print. 
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Jul 27, 2022 15:54
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Nerobro posted:Why go Octoprint? In my case, it’s just convenience. My Prusa MK3S+ is on the opposite side of the house, and it is really nice to be able to preheat and upload/start prints from across the house and monitor progress remotely. A nice UI and webcam support is nice to have on top of the basic stuff I really wanted.
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Sep 7, 2022 20:10
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TerminalSaint posted:Looks like the upper frame and y carriage (seen in the video) have been rigidized. My thought is that injection molded plastic costs less than the older metal frame, which lets them be more competitive on cost. It may actually be a benefit to upgrade an MK3 to a MK4 since the metal frame has some inherent benefits (likely stronger, heavier for vibration dampening, etc.). Well I'm just dumb and can't read. Disregard... smax fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Mar 31, 2023 |
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Mar 31, 2023 02:05
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BlackIronHeart posted:From their press release: Well, I skimmed over that part. I'm just completely wrong then.
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Mar 31, 2023 03:07
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Well, I finally got a really bad, giant blob on my MK3S+. Like 4+ hours worth of a blob of PLA+ that got shoved way up into and around my entire hotend, and is encapsulating my hotend/thermistor wires. I've heated it up and removed the bulk of the solid mass, but it's jammed way up in there. It also grabbed and pulled my hotend wires down away from where they're supposed to be, it seems like they were under a bit of strain. I also don't know if I'll be able to free the thermistor wires without damaging them, which is great. The wire sheaths for the heater cartridge also seem to have been slightly messed up (but probably not too bad?), with some PLA+ making it into the ends of the sheaths. Any tips? I'm afraid I'm going to need to tear my whole hotend/extruder apart to clear everything out, but I'm not looking forward to that. If I go that route and doubt the integrity of my wiring, are there any upgrades/changes that would make sense while I have everything apart? Edit: The carnage as I found it. 
smax fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Apr 13, 2023 |
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Apr 13, 2023 02:55
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Anyone running an E3D Revo (on a Prusa or not)? Seems like Prusa’s latest firmware still has some thermal model bugs to work out, but it seems like the older firmware works.
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Apr 13, 2023 18:06
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I can’t speak for the material itself, but I thought the nooks-and-crannies nature of FDM printing wasn’t good for food applications anyway. Basically, it’s impossible to clean thoroughly enough to be truly food safe even if the material itself is.
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Apr 14, 2023 15:05
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