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Do any Canadians know of companies that reliably put resin printers up on boxing day sales? I've been wanting to buy for a while now, and a friend reminded me of boxing day coming up, and figured that might be an excellent time to do so. It'll mostly be used for printing 28mm minis.
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Dec 15, 2021 06:02
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InternetJunky posted:This past year I've returned more than 10 resin printers back to Amazon within the return window they offer. I can't stress enough what a lifesaver this ability was. As much as I hate supporting Amazon, resin printers seem to be held together with gum and shoestring and the ability to send one back if there's issues is invaluable. Oh that is a very good point. I also hate buying from them (especially big purchases), but it's very hard to beat the return policy. ImplicitAssembler posted:Anycubic has been running some sweet deals on Ebay. Free shipping, tax included. Sagebrush posted:Just as another data point, I have had literally zero problems with my Photon Mono since I got it a year ago. I leveled the bed once in the initial setup and haven't adjusted it since. I printed a couple of things with too few supports that ended up deformed, but not a single print has failed. Okay, the Photon Mono is $159 right now for the base model. That seems too good to be true. Edit: probably USD, which is still only $200 in moosebux Edit edit: I tried start an order just to see how much shipping would be, and their website thinks my address isn't real lol Fashionable Jorts fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Dec 15, 2021 |
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Dec 15, 2021 06:33
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.ebay.ca/itm/303804478386?hash=item46bc2873b2:g:TnIAAOSwhkdfxIm~ I was looking at the official website. That is a drat good bundle with the wash & cure station, thanks for the recommend!
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Dec 15, 2021 07:42
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.ebay.ca/itm/303804478386?hash=item46bc2873b2:g:TnIAAOSwhkdfxIm~ Since you have one, I'll shoot this question your way. I have cats that love investigating noises (any time I print something or use my die cutter one of them jumps on the desk to see whats happening). How resistant to mild shaking is the printer? I doubt the cats would touch the machine itself, my only worry is the initial "thud" of a housecat jumping on the same desk. I'm sure I could set something up to keep them away if needed, but I'd prefer to run the machine on my existing work station.
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Dec 15, 2021 17:48
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ImplicitAssembler posted:As long as they aren't actually whacking the printer, it should be fine. Okay, thats good to know. It'll be set up in the basement far away from people, I was just worried that if I leave it to print unsupervised it'll misprint due to cat harassment.
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Dec 15, 2021 19:47
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biracial bear for uncut posted:All this is going to do is send whatever is output by your printer throughout the ventilation system in the house (where is your furnace/etc.?). Theres a not-complete bathroom down there with a ceiling vent fan that i'm 90% sure dumps its exhaust right outside. If it doesn't, I'll cannibalize the fan to blow the fumes out the basement window. I'll check where the air flows to when it's not -30° lol
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Dec 15, 2021 21:11
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So my printer arrived blisteringly fast but the wash+cure station is still a ways away. Its far too cold to use the sun to cure any prints, but I do have a grow lamp for plants. It emits 448nm blue and 630nm red, both are outside of the ranges recommended for curing resin. I was wondering, could I still use it and just expect very slow cure times? I'm fine with it taking hours, or even overnight if needed, I'm just wanting to know if it'll even work or if the resin won't cure correctly.
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Dec 17, 2021 21:56
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Acid Reflux posted:Put a drop or two of the resin on a piece of cardboard or something and see if the light will cure it. It should happen pretty fast if it's going to happen at all. A lot of those lights still put out a much broader spectrum than advertised, and although the intensity at the wavelength you want might not really be there, you may be able to at least use it for curing some test prints. Or not. But it certainly won't hurt to do a quick test. I didn't think of doing a test run first lol. The resin gets here tomorrow (hopefully) so I'll try a smidge to see the results. InternetJunky posted:Don't bother with the alternate lamps, just print away. No need to cure the models right away unless you're dying to paint them anyway. You can always save them up and cure them once the wash & cure arrives. That also makes sense. I've never printed anything myself and I have this weird idea in my head that it'll come out of the printer as this malleable mess that can be damaged by looking at it wrong, which I know is untrue. Thanks for the replies!
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Dec 17, 2021 22:21
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Roundboy posted:42h 18m I love it!
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Dec 18, 2021 01:21
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Another quick question; since my exhaust fan is a little weak the room I have the printer in is getting a bit stinky. Luckily it's only that room, but I'd like to be able to work on stuff in the same room without the strong smell. I was wondering if I could throw a plastic bag and/or cardboard box over the printer while its operating to help "contain" the smell a little? Googling only gives me advice on FDM printers, not the SLA that I have. I can't imagine that making it enclosed would cause any issues, but I figured I'd ask first.
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Dec 19, 2021 23:41
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Thanks for the help. I was 90% sure it was fine, but I couldn't find specific confirmation that it was safe for this type of printer.biracial bear for uncut posted:There might be an outside chance of the printer electronics overheating if your bag covers the electronics cooling fan (depending on where that is on your given machine), but other than that all you're doing by putting the resin printer in an enclosure is concentrating the emissions you smell into a tighter space. It's a bit on the cooler side in the basement I have it set up in so I doubt I have to worry about overheating, I appreciate the heads up though. I'll wearing a mask the whole time when in the room, no matter how effective covering the printer with a plastic bag is lol
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Dec 20, 2021 02:27
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Talorat posted:What are the best cheap paints to use on PLA prints? I want to make the teeth on these sandworms white, and figure I might as well buy a small supply of basic paints while I'm at it, but I imagine you want different paints then you would use for pewter miniatures? Slap on some primer (anything sold at a store that also sells tabletop miniatures is almost guaranteed to be resin-safe) and then use any paint you want.
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Dec 22, 2021 02:26
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Isometric Bacon posted:I have my printer out in the garage and honestly it's a godsend, not having to go out there constantly to check if everything is working ok, or whether the print I just sent through actually started. I'm tempted to set up a webcam next to my printer so I can peek at it without having to get up lol
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Dec 23, 2021 20:36
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Doctor Zero posted:I promised to paint them though. You now have an xmas present for her for 2033.
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Dec 25, 2021 18:36
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I'm getting close to using up my first 1kg of resin, and am quite frankly having a blast (thanks for the Photon Mono SE recommendation). I just learned about "flexible" resin, and I was wondering if anyone has had experience with it? Specifically the Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin stuff. While I haven't had any issue working with minis themselves (trimming, filing, etc), I have dropped a couple and watched them explode across the floor. I'm hoping that this non-brittle stuff will make them slightly more resistant to impacts, but I don't want to lose detail.
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Jan 6, 2022 23:25
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InternetJunky posted:The Siraya ABS-like is a bit more forgiving but is still going to break if you drop it most of the time. Compared to what you are working with now it might be a huge improvement (some cheaper resins are brutally brittle), and it's a fantastic resin for minis regardless. Oh yeah, I don't expect indestructible minis, but I'd like to reduce the sheer number of pieces something turns into (one mini managed to lose both feet, snapped at the ankle lol). Good to hear it's not some marketing gimmick, thanks for the help. I won't be mixing, that seems like an easy way to add a lot of resin to my floor.
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Jan 6, 2022 23:56
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Why are my prints suddenly taking so long? Oh. I somehow managed to change the lift speeds to be one third what it used to be. Not sure how.
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Jan 9, 2022 19:43
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I will say that since I changed the "main" lift speed on both my Phrozen and Saturn to around 50-60 or so, I get way fewer failed prints. The best explanation I heard for it was to think of it as the inverse of the adage about ripping off a bandaid; instead of yanking the print off the FEP as fast as possible, instead just let the build plate slowly peel it off as it lifts. Im running the photon mono se, which from my understanding is a fast printer (fast lift speeds, and like 2 seconds per layer), and when it was running at the accidentally lower lift speeds I was getting above-average errors. Did a batch of minis and bases for the minis, 2 out of 9 of the bases were bent so bad they were garbage, and a couple others had slight bends that needed work to salvage. Few of the minis needed some extra work to fit together. Seems like anything shy of turbo speeds on this printer makes it have a tantrum lol
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Jan 9, 2022 23:11
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), so I usually just fire off a print before I go to bed and check on it in the morning when I get up.
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
I know what that's supposed to look like, your printer was unable to raise the model up-it either stuck to the vat or fell off the build plate (or both), and it printed all 400ish layers into one layer. Most likely the build plate wasn't properly levelled, and it printed into the air. Make sure you drain your resin vat (use one of those filter strainers your machine hopefully came with) and make sure nothing is baked onto the vat. Level and square up your build plate, and odds are you'll be good to go.
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Jan 10, 2022 09:39
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I heard conflicting information, but yeah I can do that after work tonight My 100% effective levelling method for my anycubic mono (don't know how different yours is): -take vat out, make sure lcd is clean, make sure build plate is clean. -put single sheet of regular printer paper on bottom -loosen the build plate with the Allen key on the side, not the knob on top -in printer settings, press "home" button to lower build plate. -put a couple fingers on the build plate once it's all the way down and squared up (bit of pressure so it doesn't move). Tighten allen key. -press the z=0 button and confirm. You'll be good to go. The build plate has springs in it so it is supposed to compress a little at 0, the paper is just representing the resin vat's thin plastic sheet and adding scratch protection to the screen at the bottom. My machine is different than yours, but hopefully since they're from the same company (and share a lot of parts) my method will work the same on your printer.
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Jan 10, 2022 18:14
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Jedi425 posted:I'm looking at getting a small printer for hobby use; I'll probably end up printing dumb D&D poo poo, board game inserts, and so on. Can resin printing folks speak to safety concerns with resin, specifically fumes? I don't really have an outside space to work with. Whatever printer I end up deciding on will live on a work table in my office, and while there is a window, it's not positioned well for ventilation. (It also was never opened by the previous tenants, and I'm not sure it even opens at this point.) Most of the resin printers I see have enclosures around them, which I imagine keep the liquid from getting out, but do they mitigate the fumes as well? Or am I better off settling for an FDM printer and waiting for the glorious day when I have a garage or something? I put a plastic garbage bag over my printer and it's almost completely gotten rid of any and all fumes. Was more effective than the elaborate exhaust system I had built before. The enclosures that the printers have are far from air tight. They're just there to keep debris from falling into the printer, and supposedly stray UV from curing the resin when idle. I'd still recommend having it in a room that is separate from you, even small amount of fumes is doing who knows what to your lungs.
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Jan 11, 2022 18:55
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Ambrose Burnside posted:someone been doing some extremely interesting Rigorous Experimentation documenting the forces Thats a long rear end blog that I currently don't have the brainpower to read, but thanks a lot for linking it. Its funny, over the weeks I've had my printer I've really stopped treating it like it's a fragile egg. My build plate looks like a topographical map of the Battle of the Somme, and it's kinda made things easier.
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Jan 11, 2022 23:07
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NewFatMike posted:It’s being complemented by a laser cutter and home brew CNC router along with my crappy 3018 router I dreamed about a garage setup with an SLA and FDM printer, laser cutter, and CNC. I could build anything!
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Jan 12, 2022 00:01
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I too have noticed a few times when the supports that come with a model, and even the ones that chitubox automatically adds are insufficient. Just do a quick look over and slap in a few more, it's better to waste your resin on extra supports than misprints.
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Jan 13, 2022 01:51
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Indolent Bastard posted:I know that pre supported models aren't failure proof but one would hope if they go to the effort of creating the supports that they would actually work. I would be shocked if ripping a support off a model caused damage to the model. On big smooth surfaces, they rip off very well, if they ever attach to fine details you are worried about, just use clippers and do it manually. I don't know your printer at all, but I wonder if you could get away with a slightly shorter exposure time? Maybe knock off a second, or half a second, just so the resin comes out the other side "softer" so to speak and less likely to have a support snap off during the print Indolent Bastard posted:I get that it's a learning process but it can become draining when I get constant failures. 😐 Thats understandable. Before I figured my stuff out, I had a whole swath of failures in a row and it was very disheartening.
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Jan 13, 2022 02:08
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Doctor Zero posted:I've never had an issue with Atlas supports. https://atlas3dss.com/creative-partners It's a bold web design choice to have every product be a 404
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Jan 13, 2022 19:51
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Combat Pretzel posted:I looked into this out of boredom, especially because they had some Youtube personas on I regularly watch. I know it's supposed to be casual, but they're talking over each other so so so so goddamn much... Yeah, I like all of those creators, but I couldn't manage five minutes of their podcast. Maybe eventually they'll figure it out and it'll be enjoyable.
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Jan 16, 2022 00:41
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I just realized I can use my resin cure station to set my nail polish faster, and I feel like I just discovered some hidden truth of the universe.
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Jan 19, 2022 22:42
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ninjoatse.cx posted:Kind of an aside in this thread, but anyone have any experience gluing broken figurines? I really don't want to reprint on of the models I had painted. Any place to go to find out what kind of glue I should use or any kind of tips in using it. Superglue. I got some gorilla glue, because it was the cheapest for a good size and it works wonders. I broke over a dozen minis when I knocked a container to the floor, and managed to put them all together pretty well - painted them after and you can't even tell. If it's a super thin piece that snapped, like a sword or antenna or something, you might have to reprint, but I'm lazy so I just over-glue it (to the point where the glue spot is twice as thick as the rest) and then knife/file it down again. Do not use plastic glue. It literally does not bind to resin. Edit: I re-read what you said about them already being painted. You should still be fine, but you might have to do a tiny bit of paint touchup, as the paint might have flaked off during the break. Also when using superglue, it can sometimes take a surprising amount of time to set depending on what your doing. Blow on it, hold it under a warm lamp, should speed things up. Edit edit: and you will accidentally glue a mini to your fingers at some point. When that happens, wait for the glue to dry and then twist the model off. Don't pull, it's more likely to damage the mini, twisting works the best. Fashionable Jorts fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 18:35
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I legit had no idea there was such differences in types of superglue, I usually buy whatever is on the shelves at hobby stores that aren't labelled "plastic glue". The gorilla glue I have is the blue cap stuff, and it works great for me.
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Jan 20, 2022 20:29
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Had an exciting new error happen; the middle of a model failed to be printed. I have never seen this before, and didn't even think it was possible.  There was also a blob of resin stuck to the bottom of the vat after the print that I peeled off. I've been making stuff for 2 years now, and except for recently updating the firmware, I've not changed any of my settings. Is this something that I need to worry about, or is this some strange one-off event? This is an Anycubic Photon Mono SE.
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Feb 28, 2024 02:28
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Warbird posted:Is that a Battletech mech? Sure is! A Vulture/Mad Dog. I've printed about 50 mechs now for myself and my gf over the last year.
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Feb 28, 2024 02:41
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Warbird posted:Are the models just out there? I wouldn’t mind printing couple myself. There's many sources, but this guy is my favourite. He rips them from MWO, and adjusts them a smidge to print better. Really pretty. https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Syllogy His new ones are $2 a pop, but theres many that are free.
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Feb 28, 2024 02:51
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Synthbuttrange posted:This is fine. What happened is the leg fell off at some point but when more connecting structures came along it touched the resin blob and picked it back up onto the model later. Nothing to be done here except clean your sheet. OK good, glad I don't have to worry about some weird new error. Thanks. That's the plan! Gonna scuff it up more and turn it into a nice wreck.
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Feb 28, 2024 07:19
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Well, it happened again. I cleaned the vat and everything, nothing stuck to the bottom before printing. Red circle is another case of it being messed up partway though then continuing, theres a few other spots that just stopped and stuck to the bottom of the tray. Plenty of supports, and some of the failed are the same object as successful ones (for the most part I printed two of each thing) 
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Feb 29, 2024 22:21
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Ambrose Burnside posted:e: whoops just saw you've been doing this for a while, this is probably not all that helpful. i think the printing-on-plate thing still applies, tho, and that really does look like a pretty scant support set for the failed ones. I'd be using a much denser approach Huh, when I first started printing I had some bad times with printing directly on the plate, I think it kinda scared me off of it. Definitely willing to give it a try again if it'll save me from failures. Ive always used chitubox's auto support generation with no issue (until now, obviously). I wonder if the settings got adjusted somehow with a patch or something and it's doing fewer now than it used to. I'll poke around and see.
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Mar 1, 2024 06:11
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Oh boy, new and exciting failures!  Is there a reason the prints are zigzagging like this? The print before this had no problems, and now I get this without any settings changes.
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Mar 7, 2024 23:31
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bird food bathtub posted:I forgot to tighten the screw holding down the build plate once and got something similar but not exactly the same. That's the best guess I've got. Oh thats not a bad line of thinking, I did recently level the bed. Possible I didn't screw it tight enough after, thanks for the heads up.
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Mar 8, 2024 01:37
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Girlfriend is looking at getting a FDM printer sometime in the next few months, and was probably gonna grab the Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. It's currently $339 canadian, which is a fantastic price, and looking at reviews it generally seems to be pretty good (the best thing in its price range). But, I was thinking about contributing some money to the purchase, which leads me to ask if there something in the $400-600cad price range that is significantly better than the ender? We don't have any really specific demands; mostly going to be printing knicknacks and terrain for wargaming. High detail isn't required, but would be a nice bonus. Fashionable Jorts fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Mar 10, 2024 |
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Mar 10, 2024 00:02
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quote is not edit
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Mar 10, 2024 00:50
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